Be Kind Rewind Leg Warmers

Hi, everybody. Welcome to our live crochet event. I'm Brenda Kay Anderson. And today we are going to go into the past to the 19 eighties about but with a modern update because we're making the be kind rewind leg warmers. Um, for those of you who were around at the time of the VHS tapes, that's where that little reference comes from to be kind rewind. Um, and we're just kind of, it's the back in time kind of theme here with the leg warmers even though they are very popular right now. Um, which makes me happy because to be honest, I always wear my leg warmers. I've been wearing leg warmers for a long time because I like to wear skirts in the winter and it's just too cold here to not be wearing leg warmers. So these are very practical. You can layer them up over your jeans, you can put them all leggings, um, under your skirts, whatever, um, whatever you, you know, whatever reason you're making them, they are very practical and they're warm and I have a trick at the end to help the, uh, to make sure that they stay up. So they're not gonna be all bunched around your ankles as you walk down the street, right? So welcome everybody. Of course, this is a live event. Um So if you have any questions, if you have any comments you'd like to share, if you'd like to tell me where you're crocheting from, if you just want to say hi. Um I would love that, just pop into the chat box. Um And if you got questions, I will be checking that to make sure I can get things answered for you. Um So this is this pattern, be kind rewind leg warmers. This is a free download. So go ahead and download load that now. Sometimes it helps to follow along or be able to look at the pattern while I'm talking. But if you don't feel like doing that now, you just want to watch it. That's totally fine. Um You can always get it later. It's just going to be available all the time. So, um you don't need to worry about that. All right. So the leg warmers that I designed, I designed them in like a bajillion sizes because I wanted um you know, everybody to be able to make them. So they fit from about a three year old on up to uh uh a larger calf size, an adult three X. So, um and they're very, very easy to customize. You can customize them width wise, you can customize them lengthwise and I'll be talking about that a little bit during our event today. So that just to make sure, um, you know, that everybody can have a pair that fit them and that they, they like how they look. So, um, today I am gonna be using this self striping yarn. That's what I used in all my samples. I didn't do any kind of yarn changing color business at all. I just let the yarn do all the work. It was very easy. Um To be honest, I usually shy away from using self striping yarns just because I'm kind of a control freak about yarn. And then when I'm crocheting along and all of a sudden it changes colors in a spot that I wasn't expecting it to sometimes that can drive me nuts. But for this particular project, I think it looks really good. It doesn't bother me that there are color changes randomly here. You can take a look at these. Um You can see where the colors change here. They're not changing on each, you know, at the beginning and end of each stripes. They're kind of like just changing randomly to the next to the next color. Um Having said that this, this particular yarn is not random in color. It, it goes through all the same colors in a row. You can see that these colors repeat here. Um So if you are looking for two leg warmers that look the same, you might need to buy just a little bit of extra yarn, especially if you're on the cusp of using most of that skein or those two skeins. Um, just to make sure that you can start your, your leg warmer in the same spot as you started your previous leg warmer. Um, but for me, I just went right ahead. I just wanted to see what would happen if you just didn't care. And so I ended up with, let's see, these are both the tops. Yeah, so these two look pretty similar, but you can see the white stripe especially stands out. Um, they're not in the same place on the two leg warmers, but I think they look good. Um, it doesn't bother me. I just wanted to give you that heads up because I know that there are gonna be people out there who really want to be kind of, um, you know, want their leg warmers to match each other and stripe at the same time at the same rate. So I'm just throwing that out there. All right. So I use, let's see. Um, you'll need somewhere between about 216 yards and 600 or, uh, sorry, 700 yards depending on what size you're making. And remember this is a very wide size range. Um, so you really probably only need like a couple skeins, two skeins for an adult size or, or three. let's see, let me just check on my, yep. Or or four for the very largest sizes. So basically 23 or four skeins um of this yarn of this particular brand and everything. And the information for all of that, the specific brand I used the exact yardage that comes in the skein, you know all the information about it. Um it is 100% acrylic um for wash. I just wanted, wanted to have easy care leg warmers. So if they got dirty, I could just whip them into the laundry. Um But all that information is in your pattern. Download. If you want to check that out, you wanna know exactly what I'm using. So, all right, and you of course, are going to need a hook and I am using an H hook, which is a five millimeter hook, but you will use whatever hook that you need to in order to get the same gauge that I got. So I did have suggestions. Um When you're, I do have the gauges listed in here for the two different stitch patterns. We're gonna be working in a ribbed stitch pattern which you can see up here and then we're gonna be working these linked double crochets down here. Um So I do have gauges for both of those that you can check out in the pattern and make sure your gauge is matching. But another way to check your gauge is to kind of just go for the size that you think you want to make and then just start making it and you'll end up, you know, with a little piece like this will be your ribbing and then you can try it on and see if you think that that's gonna be the right size for you. Honestly, you know, you can make a little gauge, you can make a gauge watch. But I always recommend to people when you're checking your gauge to work your fabric in exactly the same way that you're going to in your project. So for example, if you're working something back and forth and turn rows, you want to make your gauge swatch flat, back and forth and turn rows. If you're making something in the round, like how we're gonna be working this, you're gonna need to make your gauge swatch in the round in order to get your fabric to look the same as it's going to in the final, you know, project. So in order to do that, you need to make your gauge swatch probably twice as wide. Um, unless you want to cut through your garn, I wouldn't, I would just recommend making it twice as wide, twice as many stitches. So you can flatten it out and measure it across, but you might as well just start making the leg warmer at that point because look, this is, I mean, you might as well just start making the leg warmer. It just seems like a waste of time to me to make an extra gauge swatch. But um I did have all that information in there for you in case that's the route you wanna go. If you just want to make gauge swatches and not worry about that, that's fine too. All right. So basically, um you just need yarn and then the hook and then um yarn needle for weaving in your ends and also some stitch markers. And then the other thing and this is optional is you will need some eighth inch um round cord elastic. So I know I realize that the elastic that I have here is white. Let me just put this down here. So you guys can see from the top. Um This is what it looks like. Um It's, it's gotta be thick enough to be able to bounce back pretty quickly. I know cord elastic does come in different widths, but look for something that's about an 8th 8th of an inch and then just kind of feel it and make sure that it's going to um spring right back and this is going to be used. I will show you how to add this to the very top of the leg warmer um to keep them up. That's my little secret. All right. So let's start out um at the top of the leg warmer. So the first thing you're gonna do is you're actually going to just kind of measure out about between 2 to 3 yards so three yards for the bigger sizes, two yards for the smaller sizes, you probably don't even need that much, just an estimation. Um So you're gonna measure off about two yards. So there's about two yards there and then you can cut that if you want because you're gonna be holding the, you know, two strands together for this very, um, just the foundation edge. That's the only part instead of cutting it though, I just kind of fold my yarn at that point. And then I make my adjustable loop just so that I have enough yarn tail here to weave in my ends. I'm gonna make my adjustable loop with the 22 yarns held together. Oh, sorry, not an adjustable loop. Just your um your beginning loop. So I'm gonna wrap my yarn around like that till it makes kind of a little e shape flip that over onto the yarn that's connected to the ball, which is here. We're gonna pull up that loop and place it on our hook. OK? For that's just our slip knot. Sorry that I was trying to remember slip knot earlier and it just slip knot in my mind. All right. So, um at that point, we're gonna make our foundation chain and there you might be wondering why am I holding this double? We only hold this double for the very foundation chain, just the chain, just the beginning chain that we're gonna make. And then at the very end of the leg warmer. And the reason that I'm doing that is because I want a little extra oomph at the, the beginning and the end of the leg warmer. Sometimes I feel like when you start working in a ripped pattern, the end, the edge of it just, it just doesn't have enough of a structure to, it almost, it looks like a little too thin. So sometimes I will add that second strand of yarn just for, for my foundation chain. And I find that it seems like it's a little bit stretchier like it bos back a little better. I think it's because I'm still crocheting with the same size hook, but it's a little bit thicker and there's two strands and it just, I'll show you once once I crochet this up. But it's um, it just seems a little bit stretchier to me than if you just start out with one strand only. All right. It looks like we have some people saying hello. Uh We've got Barbara Dunlap is saying, oh, it looks like I missed something. Oh Eleanor. Oh my goodness, you guys, there's been lots of comments here. Ok. Trying to download the pattern. Keeps wanting to sign me up again for membership. Ok. I'm sure. Oh, it looks like we already took care of answering that below. Um Let's see. Oh Eleanor is saying, I've been trying to find a good Amaga roomy bird. Could you do one? I love your Amaga roomy projects. OK. A bird would be fun. I've actually been thinking about making a flamingo lately, but I'm not sure if that would be, let me know if you like the idea of a flamingo. Otherwise I'll think of some other kind of bird. Sure. Yes, I, I uh I will put that on my list. All right, Barbara is saying, I agree. Eleanor would love to see a cardinal or a blue Jay. OK? I got some more ideas here. Thanks you guys. I'm so glad you guys are suggesting these things. I don't even know if I mentioned that in this live, but maybe you guys have been watching me before and I always like to say, you know, if you guys have ideas and things you'd like to make, definitely put them in the chat. Um like Eleanor and Barbara here. So. All right and well, Marine is saying hi from London, England. First time here. Welcome Marine. I'm happy that you're here. Oh, I've been to London a couple of times and I love it so much. OK? Zoom at saying hello everyone and glad to share my coffee with Brenda this morning. Excellent cheers to you. I wish I had a coffee here, but I probably spill it on my project. It'd probably be a bad idea. Uh And Stacey is saying good morning to everyone watching from Iowa and Molly saying, hey, Brenda, hey, Molly. Hi everybody. Thank you guys. So much for jumping in and saying hi. All right. So now, um, back to what I was saying about why I'm using two strands of yarn. I just like to the edge to be just like a little bit more substantial, a little bit more plump. You can see what it looks like here. I'll just show you and it's a great place to hide. The cord elastic is also the other reason that I'm doing this. So you can certainly just use one strand if you're like, I'm new to this. I don't think I want to handle, you know, having two strands at once. Um, just try it and if it doesn't work, just drop it and start with just one strand, it's not gonna, you know, it's not gonna cause problems, your leg warmers will still be cute. All right. So I am going to make my foundation change. So for all the different sizes, of course, there are different numbers. Now, let's let's just stop for just a minute and talk about how to read patterns. For those of you who are newer to reading patterns. Um when you are going through your pattern and you see directions. This is one of the most common questions that I get. People get kind of confused about what is going on with all these parentheses and the numbers and it just is like overwhelming. Um And I just wanted to let you know that what's happening here is all these different numbers pertain to each of the sizes. So if you go back and you look at the sizes included, so it says this pattern is graded for sizes 123456789, Ok, there's 10 sizes and those numbers, they don't mean anything. They just mean one is the smallest and 10 is the biggest. They don't mean any kind of measurements or like, you know, dress sizes or anything. It's not that um it's just numbering the sizes to make it a little bit more clear. And then it says right after that and they were designed to fit ages 3 to 5 years is in front of the parentheses. So that would correspond to size one. OK. And then 6 to 7 years is the first size in the prince that corresponds to size two, et cetera. So as you go through all these sizes, you know, here we have adult three X that would correspond to the size 10 here. So, you know about what size you want. And also I wanna mention, you know, I've got the years in here, there's all different sizes of kids, you know, 3 to 5 years could mean any size really. So the best thing to do is to take a look down here at the finished measurements of the leg warmers. So this is telling you the smallest size, the finished circumference is eight inches right here. OK? And the largest size of finished circumference is, um, you know, 16.75 inches. And then after that, it tells you to fit calf size of nine inches. 10, 11, You know, these are, these are the measurements of your body or whoever you're making it for, uh, of the calf size. And then these are the, the finish size of your leg warmer is listed first. Ok. I just wanted to clear that up just to make sure. So if you, and then I also make a note, um, to choose a size that measures about an inch or an inch and a half or even for some of these bigger sizes, you could even have a size that's two inches is smaller than your calf. So what you want is a leg warmer that has to stretch a little bit to fit your leg. Ok. So you want it to stretch a little, you don't want to stretch, you know, a lot, you don't want to stretch like four inches because then you're gonna start to see it. It's gonna make the fabric look not as pretty. It's just gonna start looking like it's straining a little bit or you just see holes between. Um, but you know, it's up to you however you want to wear them, you know yourself. Um, but just that's just sort of like a guideline for figuring out your size. All right. So back to the pattern information. So now that we know, you know, the first finished circumference of the leg warmers, the first size is eight inches around. Um that, that corresponds to the first set of information here when you look at these parentheses. So if you were making the smallest size, you would go outside of the parentheses and you would chain 24 here in the directions when we're making that. Um When we're first beginning our top ribbing piece, you'd chain 24 right now, I'm gonna be making the 10 inch circumference size, which is the second size within that first set of parentheses. So that would be I chain 30 to begin. Um And then as you read through here, we're gonna drop a strand and we're gonna make one more chain. So I will have a total of 31 stitches. So this number here just depends on what size you're making. All right. So now let's get back to this. Um I'm gonna chain 30 stitches. So 123456, 789, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 1920 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 and 30. All right. So we've changed 30 like I said before, I wanted to just show you it's just a little springier here. You can kind of see how stretchy that is. I feel like it just helps to have that extra strand of yarn, it just wants to bo back a little better than if it just had one. I don't know. Um So then we're gonna drop the piece of yarn that where you can see the yarn tail. OK. So this was that extra piece of yarn. We had just look for the, look for the strand connected to the ball. That's the one you want to be continuing to use. OK. So this yarn, we're gonna drop the other yarn and then we're gonna chain one more with the yarn connected to the ball. So I'm making one more chain and that chain is just a turning chain. That's all it is. Um And you might be thinking, why are you making a turning chain? I thought we were making these in the round. What is going on? So when I, a lot of projects, when I want a nice clean edge on it, I will begin working in the bottom of my chain. But when you're working in the round, it's hard to do that unless you end up twisting your chain. So what I've started doing is I just do one row across and then I join. So that way I can end up working into the bottom of my chain, which I'll show you in a minute if that's new to you. And then that way at the top of your chain, you see all those nice, nice little neat vs so this will look the same as the bottom edge of your leg warmers. Um I just like how it looks a little better. All right. So we're skipping that first, um, horizontal dash. OK, because we're working in the bottom of our chain. So we've rolled our chain over. All these little vs here are getting turned over to face down on the table. And what's left are these little horizontal dashes? And that's where we're gonna be working. So we're gonna start out by making extended single crochets all the way across. All right. So to make an extended single crochet, we're skipping that first bar, which is really hard to see anyway, because we just chained with um with one yarn there and then we've got this other yarn kind of sticking out. So if you look for where that yarn is sticking out, it's the bar right after that. So we're gonna insert our hook right there, then we're going to yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through one yarn over, pull through two. That is an extended single crochet and then we'll place a stitch marker in that very first stitch that we made, that'll come in handy later. And then we are gonna continue working those extended single crochets into each of these back bumps or some, I call them the, the bottom of the chain. Some people call them the back bumps. But to me, that's sometimes confusing because these are known as the back loops it's all very confusing in crochet when there's so many words that are used interchangeably between two different techniques. But we're working in those horizontal dashes along the back of the chain. So we're going to insert our hook yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through one yarn over, pull through two. There's another extended single crochet. So they look like two little vs one stacked on top of each other. That's what that little stitch extended single crochet looks like. So we're just gonna continue that all across our foundation chain. Just remember to slide that hook underneath both strands of yarn. You can see there's two here because we held our yarn double, just make sure you're catching both of those and we're just gonna be working across an extended single crochet. All right. Oh Molly is asking if I have a favorite app to use as a stitch counter. I actually don't use stitch. I'm, I'm assuming that means stitch counter. Yeah. Um I don't actually use stitch counters. I, I am like one of those people who just kind of counts without meaning to like sometimes when I'm going up the steps, I'll be like there are 72 steps there. Um So I don't usually use a stitch counter. Sometimes I, I mean not to say that I always am right on, but I, I have learned that even if I have a stitch counter. Um and I don't know, maybe there are some newer stitch counters that can tell when you're at the end of your row. I think there are maybe some hooks that somehow know when you turn your work or something like that. Um But I've never used anything like that very old school when it comes to my crochet. Um But yeah, maybe somebody else who's joining in here can suggest some for Molly because she's got, she's just wondering about if anyone has a good app to use as a stitch counter. And hello to Terry. Good morning. She's uh they're joining us from Los Angeles. And Lillian is saying, hello, wanting to make this for Christmas gifts for adult women. Will they fit an average leg and maybe a chubby one the same hard to ask the person to measure their leg. Ok. So there's a whole bunch of different sizes. Now, I don't know. Let me see. You could, it's so hard to know how to, how to make sure they fit without having the measure. But, but I would say if, if they have, if you can tell they have larger calves um than yours or larger than average, I would just go up a size or two. And what you can do is you can, I mean, you can just kind of use your measuring tape and look at it and kind of make a guess if you don't wanna ask them and make your best guess and then what you can do is you can put that elastic in the top and if you air on the side of them being, you know, if, if you air on the side of them being maybe a little big, then that way you can pull in the elastic and tie a tighter. I'll, I'll explain this later when I go through the elastic part, but that will keep them up. Um, but yeah, I, yeah, I don't know how to, I don't know how to do that without asking them. I mean, you could just ask them to take, you could give them a piece of something that doesn't stretch like string and just have them pull that around their calf, then they're not putting a number on it or anything like that. You could just say, can you just put this around, you know, your calf or the widest point of your leg? You know, I guess maybe you don't wanna, maybe it's a secret and you don't want to make them. I, I mean, you don't wanna ask them to do that if you wanna make them and not tell them what you're doing. I don't know. Um, but maybe somebody else has another idea. But if you look at the sizing information, if you make your best guess, you can always adjust the fit a little bit to make it, um, smaller at the top if you make the elastic a little tighter. Ok. How can I add elastic or ribbing to the top or bottom edge of my leg warmer for snug fit. Yes, Camila. We are going to get into that later um towards the end of our, towards the end of our session here. So I will definitely show you how to do that. OK. So, oops, I took my marker out without telling you what I was doing. Let me just back up here. All right. So here's my very first stitch that I did. I marked to the top of it. I, I made an extended single crochet in each stitch or in each chain all the way across. And now instead of turning our work to work and turn rows, we're gonna join to begin working in the round and I just realized my yarn became white. So I'm gonna bring this over here so you guys can see a little better. OK. So in order to start working in the round after you've just done one row, we're going to bring this, we're gonna bring this marked stitch around here next to where we just made our last stitch gonna pull this down here and get that out of the way. Um So basically here you can see here. It's not, there's no twist in it. We're just bringing it right next to where we had been working, so we can just continue around in a circle. So in order to continue, um you could do a joint if you want to, if that helps you. But what I do is and what the pattern directs you to do is you just start out working into that very first stitch. So remember this is the turning chain and we're not working into that stitch. We're gonna work into the, into that first extended single crochet. And we are gonna be doing a front post, double crochet around that single crochet. So if you've never worked a post stitch before, this is a good time to start because this is a very easy project. Um So in order to do a front post, double crochet, we're gonna make a yarn over just like we're making a regular double crochet. And then instead of inserting our hook here underneath those two loops on the top, we are going to insert our hook around this post. So we're gonna go into the fabric right before the post and then out of the fabric right after the post. So we just kind of slid our hook behind there, then we're gonna yarn over again and pull a loop through. And you'll see. Now we have 33 loops on our hook. So at this point, we're gonna yarn that's just like a regular double crochet, right? So we're gonna finish it up like a regular double crochet. We yarn over, pull through two yarn over and pull through two and don't worry, we're gonna be doing that a bunch more. So if you missed it, it's OK. All right. So the next stitch, we're gonna do an extended single crochet into the next stitch, which is right here when you're working in the round. Um And you're a right handed crochet, the top of the stitch will be slightly offset to the right compared to the post of the stitch. If you are a left handed crochet the top of your stitch, this will be mirrored, you know, a mirror image of this. Um And the top of your stitch will be slightly to the left of the post, your stitch. So that's important to know because we're gonna be switching back and forth between working in the tops of the stitches and working around the posts. And this can be very confusing for people who are um first learning this. So we're gonna work an extended single crochet into the second stitch, which is right here. So the top of the stitch is right there and we're gonna make an extended single crochet into that stitch. The next stitch, we're going to work a front post, double crochet again. So we're gonna yarn over and you may think that this is the post. But no, because we worked in the top of that post. Remember there's the top of our stitch, there's the post. So we're gonna be working in the next stitch, which is right here and you can count there was 12, those have already been worked. Here's the third one. So we yarn over insert before our extended single crochet come out after this extended single crochet yarn over, pull up the loop, yarn over, pull through two yarn over, pull through two. So we have an a front post, an extended single crochet and another front post, double crochet right there. So we're just gonna continue the same stitch pattern all the way around. So here's an extended single crochet and here is a front post, double crochet, extended, single crochet, front post, double crochet, extended single crochet, front post, double crochet. So we're just gonna continue alternating these two stitches all the way around. And this is gonna set us up for that. You know, this is basically the beginning of the ribbing section. This is how we make a ribbing in this particular um this particular pattern. This design, let's see, Stacey says she uses knit companion. It's great for both knitting and crocheting among other crafts. Awesome. Thank you, Stacy for recommending that. All right, still working. Here's an extended single crochet and a front post, double crochet. So this ribbing pattern oftentimes you'll see when people do a uh post stitch ribbing, oftentimes, they will alternate between a front post, double crochet and then a back post double crochet. And that makes a really nice ribbing as well. Um I like this ribbing because it makes the inside of your work smooth. Um Instead of having those post stitches on the inside by your leg, it's smooth on the inside. And um it also the extended single crochets are also nice because they have a little extra stretch stretch. They lay nice and flat. So there's a nice contrast between the post and the extended single crochet, which you'll see as we work a couple more rounds, um it'll, it'll show up a little bit better. Um But, and the other thing about extended single crochets that I love so much is that extended single crochets are perfectly vertical. So when you're making your stitches going around and around and around in the extended single crochet, your hook doesn't start traveling off to the right. If you're a right hand of crochet or to the left, if you're a left hand of crochet, they just keep stacked straight up on top of each other, which is really nice if you're making something that has vertical lines like a ribbing because I don't, I don't really like how it looks when the ribbing starts to veer off to the side unless of course, it's intentional, which is a nice design feature. But oftentimes I just want the ribbing to go straight up. All right. So we've made it all the way around, we ended with an extended single crochet and that last extended single crochet. And you probably noticed there's this gap here, do not worry about that. That is perfectly normal at the end. Um I will show you how we close that in. It's just you know, it's just because we worked that, um, set up row and then we started working in around. That's, that's why there's that gap there. But we're gonna sell those two little bits together later. All right. So we're just gonna keep going in that same pattern. We're starting out with the front post, double crochet. This is um round number two because there's a set up row and then we started with round number one where we actually start making that ribbing pattern. So this is round number two. I'm just making a post stitch into the post stitches and an extended single crochet into the extended single crochet stitches. So it's very easy to start reading your stitches and know what stitch to place where because your post stitches are starting to make these ridges and then you'll be able to see that and know that you need to put another post stitch in there. All right. So we just continue working this around and around and around. Um Until our cuff is as long as we want it to be or if we're following the uh the pattern, you can take a look here. I'm working the second size in that first set of parentheses. So I'm working rounds 2 to 4. So, oh, let me explain to you when you see this at the beginning of a row, all these numbers and dashes and the parentheses again, when you've got those parentheses, the numbers that pertain to your size are found in the same spot. So I'm making the second, um, the second size within the parentheses. Ok. It's the third size actually from, you know, from smallest 123. So that means I work round two to round four before I move on to the next section. If you had a, if you were working in a larger size, say you were working in one of these sizes up here. Um The first size in the parentheses, you're gonna be working up through round five. So this is telling you that you need to work different amounts of rounds for the different sizes, but of course, because you're your own crochet boss, of course, um You can decide how long you want your ribbing to be. You can always make up for the length or make it longer or shorter whatever you want with the um the length, double crochet stitch pattern here. So don't worry about affecting the length of your leg warmer. Um If you kind of like the look of a very short ribbing, you know, just do fewer rounds there or if you like how the ribbing looks, um, longer, you can make it longer. If you wanted to make your whole leg warmer out of the ribbing pattern, you could also do that. Um The only thing with that though is it's not gonna have as much drape. Uh You will definitely need to steam block it if you're making it out of acrylic and it might use a little bit more yarn. So I just want to let you know you have some options there. All right. So you would just continue working for this size. You work around through, you work through round four, of the ribbing and let me just show you how to count that for those of you who, um, who don't have an app that can count their rows and you get a little confused. So what I do when I'm looking to count this ribbing pattern is I the easiest way to do it is to look at the extended single crochet, stitches because they're easy to spot when you're looking at these post stitches. Um I know that these little dashes here. Those are all the beginnings of a new post stitch. So there's one, there's one, there's one and there's one, but that's a little trickier to see. So if people are working in the stitch pattern and you're trying to figure out how many rounds you've worked and you, you're just not sure know that that first round of stitches, that was your set up row and then you can count your extended single crochet. So remember the extended single crochet is a V stacked on top of another V. So there's 123 and four, I've already done my four rounds here and then I'm ready to move on to the next step. So that that the next step is called the body of a leg warmer, ok? And then you'll see that there is um a division here between directions. So I'm telling you round one, when you start working on the body of the leg warmer for sizes 13568 and 10, you do this and then if you're working size 247 or nine, you do this, ok? And then after that, we are going to the all sizes are combined together here for the next set of instructions. The reason these are separated out like that is because the sizes 247 and nine, um we're going to be adding an extra stitch. We're gonna be doing an increase right away. And the reason I didn't just start out with one more stitch is because we needed to have a multiple of two in order to do the ribbing here. So in your very first stitch, say you were making size 247 or nine, your very first stitch, you would do a double crochet in the first stitch. So that's this front post, double crochet. We're working right into there. So we're gonna do a double crochet. So yarn over, insert, yarn over, pull up, loop yan over, pull through two, yarn over, pull through two. There's our first double crochet and then for sizes 247 and nine, we're gonna work a linked double crochet into the same stitch. OK? So that's gonna create an increase, we're gonna end up with one more stitch in circumference around, which is the circumference that I really wanted it to be the size I wanted it to be in order to fit uh the mentions that I had listed in the pattern. So to do a linked double crochet, and this is regardless of what size you're making to do a linked double crochet, you will insert your hook through this sort of, it's kind of almost horizontal, but it's kind of like this diagonal bar right there on your double crochet. If you look at your double crochet, there's a V on the very bottom and then there's sort of this crooked bar right above that bottom V that's that bar is where you're gonna slide your hook under and you're gonna go from left to right or kind of top to bottom underneath that bar, just the one bar. Then you're gonna yarn over and pull up a loop and then you're gonna go down into that same stitch for size 247 and nine, you're gonna go down into that same stitch and complete your linked double crochet. And I will show you um how this looks for the other sizes after this. I just wanted to make sure I did this. So I didn't confuse anybody. OK. So we pulled up a loop, then we're gonna insert our hook into that very same stitch yarn over, pull up a loop you're an over pull through two, you're an over pull through two. So you might have noticed it's very similar to a regular double crochet. So I'm gonna back up here, let's say that we were working sizes 13568 and That means we start out with a double crochet in that first stitch. So here's our double crochet and then we're going to do our linked double crochet into the following stitch. So we still insert our hook underneath that bar and then we yarn over and pull up a loop and we insert our hook into the stitch. The next stitch that we're working into, which is an extended single crochet, we're gonna yarn over and pull up a loop. Now we have three loops on our hook and we complete our double crochet by yarn over, pulling through two yarn over and pulling through two. So now you can see those linked stitches. It actually com like links the two stitches together. It's basically tethering these two stitches together at the mid point of the stitch. And then we are going to continue working linked stitches all the way around this whole row. OK. So one stitch into each stitch around. So we're gonna insert our hook and now that bar is a little bit more prominent right here and it also is a little bit more horizontal than it was before because that is sort of pulled it into shape that last linking section of the stitch that we did. So we're gonna be inserting a hook basically from top to bottom underneath that loop. That horizontal loop, you're an over pull up loop and then we're gonna insert it into the next stitch, which is a post stitch insert. You're an over, pull up a loop, you're an over, pull through two yarn over, pull through two. All right. So now we have the first double crochet, which looks like a linked stitch. Now, basically, when we, when we made that second stitch, which was a linked stitch, it linked it to the first stitch because when you're making your linked stitches, you're linking the stitch you're making to the previous stitch if that makes sense. So these are all linked now. So we're gonna just continue making those linked double crochets in each stitch around the whole thing. OK. So we're just continuing to insert our hook um through that bar, that horizontal bar from top to bottom, grabbing that loop, pulling it up, inserting into the next stitch, grabbing a loop, pulling it up, yarn over, pull through two yarn over, pull through two. So one of the reasons that I chose the stitch, actually, there's a few reasons I chose a stitch. But the main thing was that I was looking for a stitch that was quick and easy, like a double crochet, but didn't have holes between my stitches because I wanted these leg warmers to be warm. But I, and I knew, you know, you can always make your stitch gauge a little tighter to avoid holes between stitches. But you're still gonna have a bit of a hole there. Especially if your fabric stretches, it has to stretch. And I knew that these leg warmers is gonna have to stretch a little bit. I wanted them to be able to stretch so that they fit your legs pretty well. So, um, I thought, oh, I'll just do linked stitches because that kind of tethers them together. It's still really quick stitch. It's tall and it has lots of drape. Um, and it lays pretty flat and it's easy, you know, like I want, when I was thinking about these leg warmers, I really wanted to be able to pull them up over my knees, but I also wanted to just sort of wear them sort of bunched down onto my legs too for fun. Um, and I was just picturing, I just did not wanna have heavy, bulky stiff fabric around my legs because, you know, even though that would be nice and toasty warm, I just, I don't know, I didn't like the image that was in my mind. I wanted them to be, you know, like all scrunched up and kind of relaxed, looking like a cool ballerina. That was the look I was going for there. So, linked stitches, they are your friend, if you're looking for something that is, you know, pretty easy to do, but has lots of drape but also does not have a bunch of holes between your stitches. All right, we are almost at the end of a round here. Here's our very last linked stitch. All right. And now we have a little variation on the link stitch. We are gonna be working the link stitch through the back loop of our stitches from this point on. So you don't have to do it that way you can continue working your link stitches just exactly how we've done where you just insert your hook here. You're an over pull up loop, insert in that next stitch. You're an over pull up loop, you're an over pull through two, you're an over pull through two. If you want to do it that way you can absolutely do it that way. I just really liked um the fabric that I was getting when I worked underneath that back loop, it made, it gave it even a little more drape without sacrificing. You know, there aren't big holes between my rows or anything. Um But it gave it just that much more drape. And I also really liked these sort of horizontal it when you do that and you work through just the back loop, the front loop is showing right here. So um you can see a ridge at the top and the bottom um of your stitch. So it just made some, I don't know, I just really liked how that looked, those little horizontal, little horizontal texture there. So that's why I started working my linked double crochets into that back loop. So to do that, you're just gonna insert your hook, you aren't over, pull up a loop and then you're going to insert your hook underneath that back loop. OK? So normally we put our hook under both loops, but this time you're just putting it right there right in the middle and then out through the back and then you're gonna yarn over, pull up a loop, yan over, pull through two, yarn over, pull through two. All right. So we're just gonna keep doing that. Um, insert your hook from top to bottom, pull up a loop and then we're gonna get a loop from this stitch, which is our next stitch, but just do that back loop. You're an over, pull up a loop, you're an over, pull through two, you're an over, pull through two and you probably notice there's a little bit of a hole here right there underneath where my stitch is grabbing because I'm pulling it up. But as I work more stitches, it'll help even that out and you won't even see it. Ok? So that might seem a little alarming at first for your first couple of stitches. Um But it, you won't see it later, ok? So we're just gonna continue working underneath that back loop all the way around and if you would like uh you can use, I think I actually direct you to do this to use a stitch marker at the beginning of your round. You don't actually have to do that though because as you work around and around and around, your stitches will stay fairly vertical. The stitch really, it doesn't veer off too much to the side. The other thing is, is it really doesn't matter if you're a couple of stitches off when you start making your ribbing. So you're just gonna work around and around and around and around in a spiral because we did not actually join here. We just keep going around and around and around. Um And then your peas will look like this look, we changed color. Um You know, it'll be nice and long here's where we started down here, you can still see the little gap that I'll talk about later. There's our ribbing, here's all of our link double crochets. Um For this particular size, we work 25 rounds. You know, it's a different amount for different sizes. Also, if you don't want to have super bunchy leg warmers, maybe you just want your leg warmers around your calves and you don't want all that nonsense of, um, you know, kind of rooting your leg warmers around your ankles or being able to pull them up too high. If you, if you are just wearing them lower and you, you know, maybe or maybe you don't have quite enough yarn, you can always make these shorter. Um you can just work them to whatever length you want them to be knowing that you're going to add the same amount of um height here of the ribbing to the top edge. So you just write down what you do. So that way when you make your second rib, uh second leg warmer it can match. Alrighty. Um Here we are. So I'm working my very last linked double crochet of the round. Inserting from top to bottom, you're an over, pull up a loop, working through that back loop. You're an over, pull up a loop, you're an over pull through two, you're an over pull through two, ok? And now we're gonna start working the ribbing. So to work the ribbing, we already, we don't have to work one round of extended single crochet like we did at the very beginning. The only reason we did that is because you can't make a post stitch around something that doesn't have a post, right? You can't just start making post stitches into the chains. It's not possible. So we had to do one round of extended single crochets. But when we do our post stitches, it reaches down and pulls up that ridge of the extended single crochet. So it looks like you're ribbing, your front post, go all the way down to the foundation chain. Even though there is one round where there um there were no post stitches right here at the beginning, but it looks like those raised ridges go all the way to the edge. But here we don't have to work around of extended single crochet. We already have stitches here so we can work around the posts of our linked double crochets. So we're going to begin by working a front post, double crochet. So we just yarn over and then we insert around the post. So you're gonna be putting your hook just above that horizontal bar in, you know, or below that, the top of the stitch, you wanna go around the top of the post right here and then you're gonna yarn over, pull up, loop, yarn over, pull through two yarn over, pull through two. All right. That is our first front post, double crochet. Oh I did wanna point out two other things that I kind of forgot um when you're as you're working along and if you don't use a stitch marker to tell you where the beginning of the round is, that's fine. You can just end directly above where this sort of jog in your ribbing is. So if you just kind of follow that up visually doesn't need to be perfect. That's where you will start your ribbing. OK. So it's even with this, honestly, it doesn't really matter. You could probably start it anywhere these leg warmers are so long that no one would notice if you, you know, it wasn't, if you weren't beginning the round of your, um, ribbing at the same point as this ribbing was begun. So it's really fine. Um, but, you know, just, just to, you know, if you want to be a more on the careful side, you can just kind of fold, fold your legging along where that split is and just that will be where the start of your ribbing starts. OK, where you start beginning, uh, where you begin your ribbing stitches. Um The other thing I wanted to point out is I wanted to show you how to count these rounds in case you wanted to, um you know, make sure that you have enough rounds here and you lost track. So, like I said before, when you work into that back loop, it leaves a ridge along the top, alo along the top of your stitch and that's visible. So you have a ridge there and then you also have the ridge from where you're pulling up that um that loop to make it a linked stitch. Ok? So those two ridges belong to one stitch, right? So here we have here, we have one stitch here and then 23456789, 10 and so forth. OK? I've got 25 rounds here. I just wanted to make sure that you knew how to count these rounds so that this would be like a really good TV, watching situation. You could just go around and around and around and around and every once in a while, just count up your rounds and make sure that um you've got enough before moving on to the ribbon. All right. So we did our first post stitch here. That was a front post, double crochet. Our next stitch is an extended single crochet. We're gonna do that here. There's our extended single crochet. Now we're going to do a front post, double crochet around the next stitch and an extended single crochet around the following stitch. Now, remember your post is slightly offset, so your post is slightly offset from the top of the stitch. So the post that I just worked around belongs to the top of the stitch that's, you can't really see because it's underneath. It's a little bit to the right because I'm a right handed crochet it, it would be a little to the left if you were a left handed crochet. So our next stitch would be an extended single crochet right there. A front post, double crochet comes next. So it almost looks like you're when you're making a front post, double crochet. Excuse me, that it's further away from the extended single crochets, but it isn't really. Excuse me, sorry. OK. OK. So, oh, excuse me, my throat got really dry there for a second. All right. See if my voice comes back here. OK. So we're just gonna continue working our extended single crochet, stitches and our front post double crochet is alternating around the top of our leg. Oops. All right. So we're gonna do this for the same amount of, of rounds that we did at the beginning of our leg warmer. And that will be different, uh different amounts for different sizes. Here we go. All right. So you can see the pattern is starting to emerge here. Our front posts are starting to pull up and away from the fabric a little bit and our extended single crochets are kind of recessing a little in between and you'll see it a little more clearly on the next round. It looks like we've got a couple more comments. Twila is saying that she's never heard or done a link to double crochet. Great instructions. Awesome. Yeah, they're fun to do and you can actually link other types of stitches too. You can link half double crochets, you can link trouble stitches. Um It's sort of the same principle where you're just instead of doing yarn overs before you do your stitch, you're pulling up loops from the horizontal bars that are um in the, on the front of your stitch. So it's, you could even make a, you know, one of those super tall double Trebles all linked if you wanted to. There's really no, no limit to it except that eventually your hook is gonna run out of space. And actually that type of fabric is very similar to Tunisian crochet structure wise. OK. So let's see here. Oh, and Cynthia M is saying good morning. All good morning, Cynthia. All right. OK. So I think we're just about at the end here. Oh, yeah, I've got one more extended single crochet to make in that last stitch there. And then we've made it to the end of a round or rather the beginning of our next round. And we are gonna continue working a front post, double crochet into our front post, double crochets and extended, single, single crochet, stitches into our extended single crochet, stitches. OK? And now you can see that those ridges are really starting to pop out a little bit there. The front post, double crochets are standing out a little bit and they're easier to see and then you can go around and you don't have to, you don't have, I mean, it's just a lot easier to keep track of the stitch that you're supposed to be doing as you go around. Have you? All right. So you would continue working that around and around until you've worked, you know, your spec specified amount of rounds. In my case, it would be four and your piece would look like this. And then the last step to finish this off is to work one round of slip stitches and you don't really have to do that. Um I, I choose to do that because it makes the edge a little bit more firm and then, then it looks a little bit more like the top edge here with that thicker, um that thicker edging because we are going to once again join that second strand of yarn. So in order to uh join another strand of yarn, if you don't have another ball of yarn handy, then you can just kind of measure off about two yards, um, or a little more for the larger sizes, three yards or so. And then you're gonna cut your yarn like I just did and then you're gonna hold them together and then you're, and then you're going to just start holding them together as one strand and you're gonna do slip, stitches all the way around the top edge of your piece. So if you just do a slip stitch underneath both uh loops like normal, your slip stitch ends up turned to the front of your work. Let me show you what that looks like and then your vs end up sitting right on the front. I didn't really like how that looked because I was trying to make it look a little more like the top of my leg warmer. So, what I did was I instead of working um under both loops, I worked under just the back loop and that helped my slip stitch kind of remain on the top edge of my leg warmer. So you'll insert your hook underneath that back loop there and you're gonna grab both strands of yarn, pull it through and pull it through the loop on your hook to make that very first slip stitch and then you're just gonna continue that all the way around. So we're just working into that back loop of our stitch, grabbing both yarns and pulling through and you can see it just sort of lands right on the top, right on the top of your uh leg warmer there. It kind of sits on top of it. All right. So you can see and you know, again, having that second strand of yarn somehow just makes it a little, little more, I don't know, a little bit stretchier there. So I really like adding that extra piece. Um Just to me, it looks a little more finished and it has a nice amount of kind of bounce or stretch to it. We'll get all the way around here and then I will show you how I fat off just a few more stitches left here. And really these, these language warmers are just a big tube straight down. Um There's no shaping or anything. So really the bottom could be the top, the top top could be the bottom. My suggestion though is that, um you just check and see which edge stretches a little more and then make that your top edge because you're gonna be, um, you know, your ankle is smaller than the top of your leg for most people. So, um that would be how I would orient that But the other thing I wanted to mention too is especially if you're making some of the larger sizes because your leg warmer will go straight down. It'll be bigger at the bottom around the ankle probably proportionally, um, compared to people who are making smaller leg warmers. So if that bothers you, if you don't like to have that extra fabric around your ankle, which I mean, I kind of like it. I think it looks cute but um you know, everybody's got different fit style preferences. If you would like it to be closer around your ankle, you can actually do some decreasing as you are working your way down the leg warmer. Um And I guess I should have mentioned that back here and so I could show you, let me see, actually, I'm gonna rip this out and just show you real quick how to do a decrease in case any of you guys are interested in that. Um And just you can just make a decrease every so many rounds in order to kind of bring that in eventually to your ankle. So if you want to do a decrease, one way you can do a decrease, especially if you're working in some kind of weird stitch, new stitch that you've never worked before. And you don't really know what the official decrease is. One way that you can do a decrease is you can just um make the stitch, but instead of going through just one loop here, you can go through two loops all at once. Let me show you how to do that. So for this linked stitch, of course, we're going through the linked bar, we're gonna grab that yarn and then we're gonna go underneath that back loop. And then again, under the back loop of the next stitch, grab the yarn, pull it through, yarn over, pull through two yard over, pull through two. So we've just made those two stitches into one stitch. That's sort of an easy little trick on how to make a decrease if you are want to stay in a stitch pattern. And you don't really know um what the official weight, how many, you know, like if you want to pull up a loop from here, pull up a loop from there, then hook them together. There are different ways to make decreases. But this way, if you're just going underneath both loops, you're, you're basically decreasing them immediately because your hook goes through two of them. And when you draw through on that first draw through, you've already decreased it and you can finish your stitch how you normally would. So you can do some of those decreases like along the side or along the back of your leg warmer every so often. So that way you can get the ankle to come in a little bit closer if that's something that you are interested in. I just wanted to give you that option there to help them fit you the way that you want them to. All right. So we've made it all the way around to the very last, um, very last slip stitch here was our first slip stitch because we already had a loop on our hook that wasn't doubled at that point. So you can always see where the beginning one was because it's only with one strand, but that's fine. You don't need to, you know, keep going because when we finish this off, this will look like two strands in just a second here. So what I do to fasten off if I've been working around um in the round, I'm just gonna cut my yarn leaving a little bit of a yarn tail and then I'm gonna pull this right through that very last um loop. I'm not doing an additional, you know, yard over chain or anything at the end to fasten off. I'm just kind of pulling it back out of my stitch and then I'm going to thread these two um yarn ends onto my needle. Oops, I think I missed one here. Tuck this one in there too. All right. They're both on there and then we are going to make kind of like a last slip stitch with our, with our needle here. So we're gonna go underneath, we're skipping that one stranded loop. OK. We're gonna make one right on top of that to basically replace it. We're gonna go underneath these loops here. Ok. So you can go from back to front, front to back. It actually doesn't really matter. Um, but you, you're gonna need to make sure you're going underneath both of those loops. Then we're gonna pull that through. So that made half of half of the stitch and then we're going to bring this back and see how that's going to create the rest of the stitch. We're gonna go back down. This is where it came from before where we had fastened off and pulled through. So our loop went through there and it's gonna go back through here and we're gonna, our needle down through a couple of those like the backs of the stitches from below just to kind of anchor it a little like that. So it looks, you can't even tell where that happened. It just looks continuous all the way along. That's uh an invisible join at the end of your round and then you can just go ahead and weave in your yard tails. All right. So you're gonna want to weave it in, in a couple of different directions, make sure you do, you know, make it pretty sturdy because these are going to be stretching when you're pulling them on and you just want to make sure it's not gonna pop out. So normally when I'm weaving in ends on something that's stretchy, I like to weave them in vertically because if it's stretching horizontally that, that won't make it pop out. If you imagine your, your thread is going up and down. Let's see. Where is my aunt? There we go. Um, if you weave it in, in this direction, then when you pull on it, it won't pull out. But I don't really have very much here to weave into vertically because it changes color and I don't want my yarn tails to show through, um, into the other colors. But if you happen to have a longer stretch of your color, you can just weave it in vertically, back and forth like that. And that keeps it um from pulling out when it gets pulled on and stretched. All right, let's see here. All right, I will cut that. Um Also we should weave it in that one too, but I just wanna make sure I get a chance to show you the elastic. So for the elastic, it would really help if you knew the size of the person's leg, ju you know, at the point at which they would like to wear this. So normally that would be like above your calf. It could also be on your calf could be, you know, up on your thigh wherever. Um But if you're making this for someone and you don't have their measurements, I would say just make your elastic to the same size of this. So it's not squishing it in, it's not loose or anything like that. And that way when the stretches, the elastic will make it return back to its size, um, to its, to its shape, I should say. All right. Oh, yes, I have to also, um, let you know how to close this up. So we're gonna close this up in the same way. Um, as before, let's see. And this time I'm gonna come up. OK. So here, here's where my yarn is anchored. I've got the double strands here so that we can make it look like it's a double stranded slip stitch. I'm gonna come out. So that's where our slit is. I'm gonna come out of this stitch right here and then right in the middle and then I'm going to skip over this stitch and go into the next stitch or if you feel like you need a little extra stretch, you can go underneath this stretch stitch, it's up to you. Um But this stitch is going to be replacing this stitch. So I'm gonna go underneath here. This is like just what we just, what we did right before this. When I showed you the other end how to make an invisible joint. We're doing the same thing here. So we're gonna go underneath there and then we're gonna go back down into that stitch to finish that up and it looks invisible, a bunch of little V and then you're gonna weave in your, your yarn tails and you can see there's a little still a little bit of a hole there, a little bit of a gap. So when you weave in your tails, you can just kind of go back and forth and cover up that little hole there. All right, I'm not gonna do the most thorough job because I wanna make sure I have time to show you how to thread this elastic through. So I'm gonna make this just a little longer than the circumference of my leg warmer. And I'm going to just send it through that very top edge of my ribbing. So I would probably opt for using a black cord elastic here if I was using it through this color. Um, but I think it'll still be hidden fairly well. We'll see. But, um, I, I thought the white would show up nicely anyway, so you guys can see what I'm doing, but basically I'm just running the needle through each of those of the inside loops. Ok. So there's the V that runs along the very top edge of those nice thick foundation stitches that we made for foundation chain that we made. Sorry. Um, and I'm running my yarn needle, which has the elastic threaded through. I'm just running it through each of these loops, just sort of picking them up like this and then pulling it through. It is actually pretty well hidden. I can see a little bit of the white, but it's not too bad. And I think on the outside of the leg warmer, it won't even be very noticeable. So you're just gonna do this until you get all the way around. And it's nice if you have a yard needle that the, where the eye is just big enough to fit that, um, that cord elastic through. But, but it kind of grips on, it just barely fits in there. That's like the best size for your, the, the eye of your needle because then your cord elastic isn't slipping out as you're trying to do this. All right, we've almost made it. Oh, Tiffany is wondering if I have hair ties on my left wrist or bracelets having lived through the eighties. All I see are jelly bracelets. Guess what? They're jelly bracelets. I still love the eighties and that is what is happening here on my wrist right now. They are not hair ties. They are jelly bracelets and they also glow in the dark. How awesome is that? Ok. I think I skipped a stitch here. Oh, no, maybe not. All right. There we go. So then once you get your elastic to be about the right size, so I'm just gonna leave my net about the size of the top of my leg warmer. It was stretching it out just a little bit there and then you're just gonna tie these in a nice tight knot. So, um, and knowing that you tie it so that you have enough cord elastic so that you can bury your tails. Ok? Because you don't want to see those sticking out. Um, you wanna make this, ok? Once you make your knot pull it really tight so that it's not gonna undo where we go. Now, I can feel like it's not gonna move and then you can just take your yard needle and tuck those a little elastic bits back into the, the same path that you already sent the elastic through. All right, get in there. Now, here we go. Um So here's my tide end. I'm gonna send it right back through where my elastic is already like that and I like to leave it with a little bit of length. So it's not gonna stretch and then pop out and stick out. Um You could also, if you're having a very hard time, um, keeping those ends in, you could tie a little bit of thread around the ela both pieces of the elastic at this point and tie a knot to keep them together. Um, I haven't had any problems with mine slipping out yet, but, and then kind of pull on it a little bit here and then you can cut off that extra. Um, but, you know, uh, you could also use the teeniest, tiniest little dab of super glue in there if you wanted to, I've heard of people using that to keep their yarn ends in place. Um, I have tried it before. I don't usually use it for my yarn ends. But you could glue the elastic to the elastic. If you just kind of pull them both out, you could glue them both of them together. If you were having a hard time keeping it from popping out. The thing is, is you don't really want to cut it close to that knot because I feel like that's not gonna be strong enough. You could try using a magic knot there and test that out. Um If you think that would work, but you'd still have those teeny tiny little yarn ends and you'd have a little bit more of a bump there. So I just opted for having a longer piece tucked away inside there. And so now you have a nice stretchy edge that's gonna spring back and it'll grip onto your legs. So when you're running around in your leg warmers, they will stay up. All right, it looks like I've answered all the questions I've got. Um Yeah, I hope that you guys enjoy this project. I really hope that you make some really awesome leg warmers and keep your legs warm this winter. Um And please join me for my next live. I love teaching these. I'm glad you guys made some suggestions this time and it was really nice to see all your hellos. Uh That's always really good for me to see. So thank you guys so much for joining me. I'll see you next time. Bye.