Flora Drawstring Pouch

Hi, everybody. Welcome to our live crochet event. I am Brenda Kb Anderson. And today I am going to be sharing with you a very basic pattern for a, a little drawstring bag that is made using Tunisian crochet. So if you've never used c uh Tunisian crochet before, and you've been curious, this is a great jumping off point because we're literally just going to be making a couple of rectangles with the Tunisian simple stitch, which is kind of like the most basic stitch that you can learn in Tunisian crochet.

There's no shaping, nothing crazy going on. We're just kind of like focusing on this new technique a little bit. And then if you feel like it, you can add a little bit of embroidery detail, which is um cross stitched on because the cool thing about Tunisian simple stitch is it creates like the perfect grid for Xs. So that's why sometimes you'll see in um Tunisian crochet patterns a lot of times um people like to decorate those with a little bit cross stitching it just a little bit of fun extra um element to your bag. But you can, if you're not into cross stitching if you don't, you know, if you're not into these flowers, that's totally fine.

You can just leave that off. Um You know, you might want to experiment with using like a color changing yarn or something like that because when you're using uh a color changing yarn in Tunisian simple stitch, you get a really cool effect and you'll see why once we kind of get into how, how it works or how the stitches are made. Well, I am very excited that you guys are here. Uh Of course, this is a live event. So if you guys have any questions about anything, if you have any comments, um you know, put this on the chat and I will see them and I'll try to address everything during this live event today.

Um And, or if you just want to say hi, tell me where you're crocheting from or tell me if you've ever tried Tunisian crochet. I'm curious how many of you guys have done it before. Um You can put that in the comments as well if you're interested. All right. So, um let's talk a little bit about just the basics about Tunisian crochet.

So Tunisian crochet, it is a lot of people say that it's like halfway between crochet and knitting. And the reason that people say that is because when you're, when you're knitting, you put a bunch of live loops on your needles and you're always making a stitch into the stitches that are on your needles. You're not putting a bunch of stitches on, taking a bunch of stitches off, like, um, or, or you're not just making one stitch at a time, you are just leaving them all in your needles. So, with crochet, you are stitching around and you only have one live stitch really, um, except in some special, you know, unusual cases, but you really have just like one live loop that you're working with. Um, so that makes it quite different from knitting.

But Tunisian Christian is sort of in the middle there because what you're doing is you're putting a bunch of live loops on your crochet hook and then you're crocheting all of the loops off and then you're putting a bunch of them on and you're crocheting them all off. So, um for that reason, um when you're, when you're working in Tunisian crochet, usually you will see a very long hook for Tunisian crochet or you will see, you know, kind of a shorter hook with a cord attached to it to give you that extra length because you need to have the width, um, in order to put all the live loops onto, you know, onto your crochet hook. So whatever the width is of the thing that you're making, the fabric that you're making, if you're making, you know, a sweater or a blanket, you have to be able to put all of those loops on. Um, you know, ha have enough space for all those loops. So today, um we are just going to be using a regular crochet hook though because I, you know, Tunisian crochet hooks can be a little bit expensive and they're also kind of hard to source.

And this is one of those things where I just wanted people to be able to try it out with the equipment that they already have just a regular basic crochet hook. Um, and we're just going to be making smaller panels. So you may have noticed this, this is a little wider than my little tiny hook. But that's because, um, I use a hair binder. You can also use a rubber band like one of those thicker rubber bands and you can just put it around the end of your hook.

Um, not the hook end, but the, the other, the opposite end, just wrap it until it makes kind of a nice blob on the end. You need to have basically, you're creating a stopper so that the loops can't fall off of the back of your hook, ok? Because we're gonna be gathering up a whole bunch of loops on here and that's going to keep them from falling off the end, even if we have quite a few and we can kind of kind of smush them in there. Even if our piece is a little wider than our hook, we'll just kind of scrunch them up a little bit and it'll be totally fine. I promise.

But one thing you just, you know, if you're the kind of person who uses ergonomic hooks, like I normally do, you can't use that because you need to have enough room to put your, your loops on. Um, and you won't have that here because the handle gets in the way. So you just need the most basic wood, metal plastic. Um, just a plain crochet hook, just like what you see here. All right.

So I'm gonna be using an I hook, which is a 5.5 millimeter hook. Um But you can use whatever size you need to and either either in order to get the gauge for the project that we're working on or maybe you just wanna kind of test out the stitch pattern, which is totally fine. You can use any hook that you have. Um And then when you start working with the yarn, you'll see that normally we upsize our hook when we're working in Tunisian crochet. Um Usually we're working with a larger hook than we normally would if we're working in regular crochet.

Um That's just because of the anatomy of the Tunisian crochet, stitches. And also, um when you are using a smaller hook, you're making a very dense, dense fabric and that has a tendency to want to curl up. You can see this is curling, this is something that's very common in Tunisian crochet. Um But with just a little bit of blocking. You can fix that and we'll get to that later.

But I just wanted to make a note. Um, you know, everybody, everybody always says when they start Tunisian crochet, oh, the curl, I can't stand the curl but blocking really does fix that. And there are some stitch patterns in Tunisian crochet that don't curl at all. Um, it's just that, you know, there, there are quite a few that do curl, so that's something to watch out for. All right.

So you'll need uh, whatever size hook you're gonna use either to get gauge or just to practice and then you'll need a rubber band and, or a hair tie or something to keep your loops from falling off. And then if you're making this pouch, if you're making the bag, then you're gonna need a hook, that's one size smaller than whatever you're using to create the bag. And we're gonna be using that smaller hook later. We're gonna add a little bit of just regular crochet to do a little bit of finishing. We're gonna make a drawstring and we're gonna make a, a casing for the drawstring on the top of the bag.

So, uh, as far as the yarn goes, you'll need about 280 yards of AD K weight yarn, which is the number three. for the main color here, let me bring in my bag here so you can see what we're working with. So we've got the main color. So that's about 280 yards, which is about 256 m. Um And then you just need small amounts like maybe 20 yards or so of these extra colors.

So there's three colors here, the green for the stems and the leaves and then two little contrast colors for the flowers. Um And this is a great time to use up scraps. So if you have scraps, definitely you can use those. Um you may maybe you can see this, I'm not sure, but I used the same yarn that I used for the main color. I used the same yarn to do the cross stitch, but I held it doubled.

Um just to have a little more coverage. But if you are newer to cross stitch, um or just newer to the whole yarn thing in general, you might think about using a thicker yarn and just using one strand at a time and we'll get into that a little bit more when we start actually doing the cross stitching. But um I just want to mention that because we're talking about the materials. All right. So you will also need a large safety pin like this.

And the reason that you need this is to help you thread your um drawstring through the casing and you also need four removable stitch markers. So these are removable stitch markers, it's like or also called a locking stitch marker. Um you're gonna need four of those as well. So, and then of course, you're gonna need a yarn needle. All right.

So I wanna mention before we get too far that there are some errors in this pattern and we are working on getting those fixed as soon as we can. Unfortunately, I didn't notice them until last night and then this morning I noticed a couple more. So we already have all the corrections. Um We're already under undergoing a new uh the process of making a new PDF and hopefully that will be ready today tomorrow or you know, or sometime soon. Um But I'm going to be going through all the things you need to change.

If you've already downloaded this pattern, I wanna just go through all of them right now so that I don't forget, ok, in case you've already, in case you have an old pattern that you're working with. So, first of all, um this is we're not making leg warmers and I'm sorry about this cut paste mistake here. Just cross out leg warmers and put pouch. The yarn is used for the pouch that's shown there are no leg warmers in this pattern. Um And underneath special stitches and techniques, this is on page three, the very bottom, the slip stitch bind off.

We're not doing a yarn over here. So this says LTSC above yarn over, just cross out the yarn over. OK? Um All these changes will be made in the new version of the PDF. But if you have the old version, I just want you to correct these.

Um, right now, ok, under the instructions for the front and back, make two right underneath there. It should say with main color chain 26 that's how we're gonna start and we'll go into that when we get there, but just go ahead and write that in there. Um And then here under the sides, bottom thickness make one in rows two. It should say rows two through 68. That should be a 68 work in TSS.

See the notes for 67 more rows. Remember that each row contains a forward pass and a return pass place a removable stitch marker in the first and last stitches of the 24th row and also in the first and last stitches of the 45th row, ok? We'll get to that again, but I just want you to have those corrections and here on page six underneath the seaming um kind of right in the middle. It says there's a 1 to 1 ratio between rows along the side. Seams.

There are 24 rows should be in parenthesis. I think it says 26 there it should be 24. That was a typo. I apologize for that. And here under the drawstrings make two.

I forgot to mention that we are going to be seaming our drawstrings into a tube. So somewhere in this paragraph. Just make a little note that says Seam into tube. OK. And that's it.

All right. So those are all the corrections that you should be making. If you've got the old copy, which everybody right now, if you've already downloaded it, you've got the old copy right now. All righty. So let's get started actually making some Tunisian fabric.

OK. So this, I'm gonna be teaching you the Tunisian simple stitch. And this is like I said, this is the most basic stitch in Tunisian crochet. It's kind of like the single crochet for, for crocheting or the knit stitch if you're knitting. Um This is just like the most basic.

Usually it's kind of the first one that people learn when they're learning how to Tunisian crochet. So you're gonna start out with a chain, which is very similar to regular crochet. So we're just going to go ahead and make our slipknot and place that on our hook. We're gonna be using the larger of the two hooks that I recommended um that we're gonna be using the hook right now that has either it's a Tunisian hook of some sort or you're gonna have a rubber band or something here to keep your stitches from falling off. So there's our slipknot and we are going to chain 26.

So one, 23, these are just regular chains like um in regular crochet. 456789, 1011, 1213, 1415, 1617, 1819, 2021 22 23 24 2526. Ok. So if you guys have watched my Lives before, you know how I love to work into the bottom of my chain. I do that almost always.

Um, and we're gonna be doing that again. This is common. This is normally the way that you start out the first row, the foundation row in Tunisian crochet. So if you look at the top, you see a whole bunch of little vs kind of stacked up, that's called the top of the chain. We're gonna roll that over onto the table.

So the vs are facing down and then you see all these little horizontal dashes. So that's where we're gonna be pulling up loops on this first forward pass. So in Titian crochet, you do something called a forward pass and then you have a return pass. So basically, every time you make one row you're working, you're pulling up a whole bunch of loops and then you're doing the return pass and you're taking all the loops off and you'll see that in action in just a minute. Um But I just, I want to be clear about that, that um normally what we're used to is just doing one row across, we move across our work and we call that row one.

But in Tunisian crochet, you have to go forward and then backward and you call that row one. OK. So we're gonna skip the first stitch right there because the loop that's already on our hook is going to count as the first stitch. And then we're gonna pull up a loop in the second chain here. So we're just inserting our hook.

We're gonna yarn over and pull up a loop and then we leave it on our hook and we're gonna pull up a loop from each of these chains all the way across. Remember to work into that bottom of the chain. Some people call it the back or the back bump. Um There's lots of different words for it, but it's the side opposite of the two vs. So we're just inserting our hook and then we're just gonna pull up a loop right there, just pull up a loop and leave it on our hook.

So you may find in Tunisian crochet that you prefer a different style of hook like the head of the hook. Um Maybe you like them to be a little bit pointier when you're working on Tunisian crochet. It is something that you might want to experiment with a little bit before you invest in a, a set of Tunisian crochet hooks. Just think, you know, maybe kind of try out some different hook styles if you have different hook styles already. Um Even if they're just regular crochet hooks, um try them out in the Tunisian stitch pattern and that might help you um kind of determine what, what you're gonna be looking for if you're gonna be buying some Tunisian hooks.

All right, I'm almost there just a few more to pick up. This is getting close to the end here. Let me just check in here. Oh, we've got some hellos. We got a lot of hellos.

Actually. How exciting. Hi to Maureen in London, England. And hi to Phyllis from Sioux City, Iowa and Ken Baker from Raleigh. Hi, and Ginny from Albany, New York.

Um, yeah, we got lots of people. Oh, and greetings from Croatia. Awesome, welcome. And we've got a couple of people who've used Tunisian crochet to make blankets. Oops, I think I just grabbed two.

Yeah. Here we go. Made that change just a little tight there. So this is a good lesson in making your, making your initial chain a little bit looser so you can get that hook in there easily. This is not the, the, um, the type of hook that I normally use.

So I just made my chain kind of how I normally do. And, um, because I'm using a hook without an ergonomic handle, I had to choose a different hook style. All right. So I have gathered up a loop from each one of those chains. So I actually, even though, um, I chained 26 I have a total of 26 stitches going on here and that means 26 loops on my hook because that first loop here that counts as a stitch.

But remember we kind of skipped the, the first stitch and then pulled up a loop from the second loop um from the second chain. Sorry. So however many um change you make, that's how many loops you're gonna end up with on your hook and that's how many stitches you're going to have across. Ok. So now we are going to, so we've gathered up all our loops.

That was the forward pass and now we're gonna do a return pass. So to start our return pass, we're just going to yarn over and we're just making a chain one here. Actually, we're just gonna yarn over and pull through that first loop like that. And then we're gonna yarn over and pull through two loops and then we're gonna repeat the pulling through two. So yarn over, pull through two, yarn over, pull through two yarn over, pull through two.

We're just gonna do that. And you can see that's how we get the loops off of the hook just like that. And I like to kind of move everything up. So it's um underneath my thumb, you know, sh shift it up. You'll find as you work on this that you're just gonna have to kind of get used to when to push with your hand um and slide things up with your thumb so that it's not taking too long.

Uh because yeah, it's just a little bit different because you have lots of loops to move on your hook there. All right, we're near the end and whoops. And then we're gonna yarn over and pull through the last two loops. So there we have that is the very first row, our foundation row, um in Tunisian simple stitch and we are gonna work row two. So row two again is gonna start with a forward pass and in the forward pass, we are going to be skipping this first vertical bar and then we're gonna place our hook underneath the second vertical bar.

OK? So there's the first vertical bar that is our first stitch of the row and the loop that's already on our hook counts as the first stitch of this row here. So we're not working into that bar. We're gonna skip the first one right here and we're gonna work under the second. So we're gonna slide our hook and if you are a left-handed crochet, you can mirror um mirror your screen or watch a mirror uh a reverse image of this.

And then it would look just like how you would crochet. OK. So we just insert our hook from right to left or left to right. If you're left-handed underneath that first vertical bar, then we're gonna yarn over and then we're just going to pull up a loop like that, insert under the next bar, yarn over and pull up a loop, see how we're gathering loops once again, insert yarn over, pull up a loop. So basically we're just picking up a loop from each one of these vertical bars you can see they're pretty distinct here and we're gonna do that all the way across.

So, what we're making right here with the 26 stitches that is the front or the back of the bag. It's just a rectangle. That's, those are the pieces that end up getting the, um, cross stitch embroidery on them. But the other piece that you would make in Tunisian simple stitch is made in exactly the same way except you just start out with a chain of 12. So it would look exactly the same as this except it would just be a little narrower.

You're gonna make a long, skinny rectangle for the, the side pieces. But in both versions, you know, regardless of the rectangle that you're making, we're doing the same stitch pattern. It's the same exact process. All right. So we're getting close to the end here is our last obvious vertical bar right there.

And then there's one more on the very end. And when you get to that end, this is called the last Tunisian stit. You're gonna place your hook, not just underneath this bar here, but also if you kind of look at the top or turn it towards you, you will see that there is a shorter vertical bar right behind and you're gonna put your hook underneath both of those loops and then you're gonna grab that yarn and pull it up. Ok. So it got kind of bunchy there, but that's fine.

It can slide around a little bit here. So now we are going, that was our forward pass and now we're going to do our standard return pass. So to do that, we just yarn over and pull through that very first loop. That's basically just a chain. And that is to kind of, it's basically like a chain at the beginning of a row and normal crochet, you're just using that to kinda as like a little ladder to get up to the height of where you're going to be working.

So there you go. That's the, that's the last stitch. You know, we just work that last stitch and then we're gonna yarn over and pull through two yarn over, pull through two yarn over, pull through two. This should look familiar because we already did this. You're an over, pull through too, just like that.

I'm going a little bit faster. Now, since you get the picture, we'll get to the end and you may be noticing that there are some very large holes here between our strands, between our stitches. It the first time I did this, I thought, oh my gosh, I'm pretty sure this is going to be like a lace fabric. What am I doing? But the next row is going to change that.

It's going to make it a solid fabric. So I always think about even though this, the return pass is completing that row, we've just completed our row. It isn't, it doesn't actually look complete yet until we, until we make another row or until we bind off, which I will show you how to do later. All right. So we're gonna do one more row here.

So remember we skip that first vertical bar, go underneath the second vertical bar and then just pull up a loop. So we're gonna pull up loops in each vertical bar all the way across. And you can see as I'm doing that, it's making those holes go away. See how there's a bunch of holes here. And they're not over here because when we start that next row that um stretches out our loops, it kind of moves things around a little bit and it fills in that space.

All right. A few more loops to pull up here and then we will do a return pass. So you can see it is a little bunchy, but it's not, it's not overwhelming that, you know, the amount of loops here are totally fine on one of these shorter hooks as long as you have some way to keep them on there from falling off the end. All right. So now here is our very last stitch and it might be a little bit hard to tell where to put your hook, but just know there is kind of like a little V right here on the end and then another V facing this way on the top.

And sometimes if you just sort of pull on that to make a like a little square window, you can tell the difference between this top here and then this end here. This is where we're gonna be placing our hook right in between those two strands right here and then turn, you know, I usually use my finger to kind of push this up and push it onto my hook because you wanna make sure that that little short strand that sits right behind it. That vertical strand is also um to the left of your hook if you're right handed or to the right of your hook, if you're left handed. So we were just going to pull up a loop right there in that very end. And now our return pass, standard return, we yearn over and pull through just one.

You aren't over, pull through two, you aren't over, pull through two, you aren't over, pull through two. We're just gonna continue doing that yarn over pulling through two to get all the way across, taking all those loops off of our hook just like that. And whoops, I went through too many loops there. There we go. And now you can see those little windows are back after we've completed.

That was our third row there. So, um, in order to close off those windows, if you are going to work in Tunisian simple stitch and keep on going. You'll get a piece, you know, for the, for the sides of the bag, we're gonna be creating these long, skinny, one, long, skinny rectangle. So that is what goes kind of around the edges of the bag here like that. Um And then we have one rectangle for the front and one rectangle for the back of the bag.

So you're making three rectangles in Tunisian simple stitch. And when you get to the last row, after you've completed the last row, you're gonna have all these windows here, see all those windows, those little holes there. We need to close those off. Oh Let me tell you how to count your rows. OK?

So, um if you are counting your rows, you can just count those vertical loops, they're very easy to spot. So that would be 1234. Another thing you can do is you can look at the side of your stitch. There's little, these kind of along the side. You can count those if that's easier for you.

But basically these are all one row. OK? So even though you went forward and backward, it just counts as one row, those little um vertical dashes. So you can count them all up. And so for, for this bag, for the side pieces, we're gonna be working um 68 rows.

So what that means is you're gonna have row number 67 would be here. This would be all filled in. And then row number 68 would look kind of all windows, right. Just like a skeleton up here. But that is a complete row and now to finish it up and make it look less window, we're going to do a slip stitch bind off.

So the bind off is something that if you're a knitter, you will think that this looks kind of familiar at the top edging here. Um But it's just a way to kind of finish off your stitches and complete them. So to do that, we're going to skip that vertical bar again. We're gonna go underneath the second vertical bar. We're gonna grab that yarn doing a yarn over.

We're gonna pull through the bar and pull through the loop on our hook and that makes a little slip stitch right along the top edge of our piece. So let's do that again. We just go underneath that vertical bar, grab the yarn, pull through, pull through the loop on our hook, pull through, pull through. Ok. So we're just doing that all the way across and you can see that that is closing in those little windows.

It's shifting around where everything, all, all the little strands are. See there's windows there because we haven't done those yet and there's no windows over here. All right. And then we've gotten to our very last stitch. So I'm gonna make that little window to make it clear with where I insert.

So this is the top, this is the stitch that I wanna go in between here and here. Inserting my hook, make sure there's two strands there. And then we're gonna grab that yarn and we're gonna, we pull through that stitch and pull through the loop on that was on our hook and then we can go ahead and fasten off. All right. So, regardless of whether you're making this long skinny rectangle or you're making one of these, there's two of these for your bag, you're gonna make them in exactly the same way that I just showed you.

You just, you know, work in Tunisian simple stitch. Keep going back and forth until you can count up um to the right amount of rows for this. You're gonna be working 24 rows and then you do your slip stitch bind off. Um And then for this, like I mentioned before, it's 68 rows, slip stitch bind off. So at this point, you're going to want to block your piece because as I said before, Tunisian simple stitches really curly.

I mean, especially when you're working at sort of a tighter gauge. Let me see. I'll start my iron on and um I usually just will steam block things if I'm kind of impatient and in a hurry, which usually I am when I'm working in the middle of a project. Um So I'm just gonna go ahead and steam block this and it's gonna lay flat and then I am going to show you how to do the cross stitching because that is the next part of uh part of the pattern. Let's see.

I'm just gonna catch up with my comments a little bit here. Um Someone saying that they've tried Tunisia but seemed to go a little slower than regular crochet. I've noticed that for me too. I've been crocheting regular style crochet for a very long time. And Tunisian crochet is actually pretty new for me.

I've only been doing it for a couple of years. Um I, I'm getting faster but it also could just be a mental thing because you have to make each road twice. I'm not sure I haven't actually timed myself, but it is, it is cool. I did drag my feet for a long time before learning how to Tunisian crochet. I'm not exactly sure why I think it was just that there was so many things I haven't explored yet with knitting and regular crochet.

I just felt a little overwhelmed, but then I kept seeing all these beautiful projects and finally I was like, OK, OK, I just need to learn how to do this. Um And I'm very glad that I did because the fabric that you make, there's just, it just has a different hand, different, different feel to it. Um It's not as stretchy. Well, this, the Tunisian simple stitch is not as stretchy I don't think as regular single crochet. So I think it makes a really, really good fabric for making bags or things where you don't want it to stretch out.

Of course, that can change if you, you change your hook size compared to your yarn and that sort of thing too. Um, but it just has a different feel to it, a different drape, a different thickness, just a different, I mean, it looks different obviously too. But, um, you know, sometimes when you're trying to figure out like the perfect fabric for something, I mean, why not have more tools in your tool in your tool kit, right? So that you can uh pick the perfect fabric for your project? All right.

So I'm just giving it a little bit of steam. Let me pull that in here so you guys can see what I'm doing. I'm not actually touching this with the iron, although if you did make it out of 100% cotton, it probably is OK to touch it with the iron, but you might want to do a little test before you do that, but hovering it above and just sort of padding it into shape. That definitely works for most, most yarns. All right.

See what a difference that made. Now, it just wants to lay flat and it looks great. So it's ready to be cross stitched. Um OK, I'm just checking in here. We got lots more.

Hellos from Jeanette. And swells. And Patricia Shatika is here. Um, Margaret and Margaret Smith is here. Um, we've got someone from Queensland Australia.

Penny Tlu. What a cool name. Um, and let's see, um, Debbie saying I can't knit. So, years ago when I discovered Tunisian crochet, I felt that it was as close to knitting as I'd ever get. I've made a few afghans in Tunisian stitch and one with cross stitched butterflies.

Cool. That sounds really pretty. Yeah. And you can make some very knit, like, looking fabrics with Tunisian crochet. I mean, it doesn't necessarily feel the same as knit but it looks almost identical.

It's very hard to tell the difference unless, um, unless you're a Tunisian crochet and then you'd be able to tell. But all righty. Um, oh, and Laurie's asking if you can use other yarns for the cross stitch, like a wool or wool blend. Absolutely. You, uh, for the, for the cross stitch part, I would say just use whatever isn't.

Um, you know, if you're gonna be using this as a bag, you wanna make sure it's not gonna get very, um, fuzzy if it's, if you're using it, if it's getting a lot of use, that's just one thing to think about. But you can definitely, I would definitely raid my stash for this. I would not, you know, you can just use whatever you have. Um, and you, if you use a thicker yarn, you won't have to double it and I'm gonna show you what I mean by that. The doubling it part.

All right. So we're gonna hop over here to our chart. So this is the chart for the cross stitch. Um And uh normally when you work up a cross stitch chart, usually there's like a little plus or some little notation where the center of it is. Um I didn't do that because I found it was easier for me to just count and start working this flower right here because we, the chart is a representation of all the stitches that you have here.

Um One thing I wanna mention, let's see, it goes this way. Um When you're looking at your fabric, I talked about how to count your rows, but I did not talk about counting stitches. So when you take a look at your stitches, if you start on the, let's start at the beginning and the beginning of our row, this first bar that counts as our first stitch of the row. So that's our first stitch. And then each bar here is a stitch and you get all the way across and then it looks kind of funny over here.

This bar right here is a stitch. And then this very last um it looks like a V but that section right there is also that is your last stitch of the row. So these and stitches this V here and this V here actually count as your stitches in um Tunisian crochet, simple stitch. So, um just so, you know, when you're looking at this chart, those are accounted for here and here. So when you're trying to like figure out where this all goes, you would start by counting across.

Um And then we're going to begin right here with the top of that little purple bit. So let's see. I'm gonna do this, I'm actually switched up the colors just for fun. So you guys could see um just a variety here. So this is, this is the, these were the colors that I did originally and then I switched it up for this piece because I was using kind of a more neutral background and I um using kind of this orangey red color and pink because I thought it looks really pretty.

So that's what I'm gonna be using here. So instead of the purple, I'm gonna be using the red. Hope that doesn't get confusing. All right. So I am going to take kind of a, a good amount here.

I, when I was cross stitching this, I was using a pretty long length, definitely longer than most people that I, I know who cross stitch would use. Um You don't need to do that. You can use a smaller, smaller amount, whatever seems manageable to you. Um I just didn't really like weaving in my ends very often. So I kind of chose to go go very long with my thread there or my yarn.

Um So here we're gonna count across. So we're gonna be working on the 15th row or sorry, 15th column. So the 15th stitch and the fourth stitch down from the top. Ok. So let's count over to 15.

So 123456789, 1011, 1213, I'm gonna put a little stitch marker in there to keep my spot. So there is 15, I'm gonna mark that bar and then we're gonna count down to the fourth stitch. So we've got our fourth row rather. 123. I'm gonna move this down to the next row and that's gonna be where my first stitch is going to be right there.

So I did make a little closer picture for you guys in here about where the Xs should go. Um I don't know if this copied well enough for you guys to see this, but if you get the download, you can take a look at this piece. Um This picture rather right here. I'm showing these four little tiny white dots that I put onto the picture. That's where the corners of your X should go.

So the reason I put that here is because it's a little hard to tell exactly where the X goes when you have these like really obvious vertical lines. Here, I am going from just to the side of the line and then across this line, the line is not straddled exactly in the middle of the X. That's how I thought it was going to be before I actually made my first piece of Tian um fabric. I was like, oh perfect. It makes a perfect little grid and I'll just put all the X's in the middle.

But you i it actually if you want, if you take a look, if you're having a hard time trying to find those um those points, take a look at this. And also another thing you can do is kind of hold your piece up in front of a window and you can see the holes between your stitches pretty well. Um It's a little hard for me to do that here, but just that way you can see those little dots a little better. All right. So, um and I, I should preface this with, I am not a cross stitch expert by any means.

I do like to cross stitch on my crocheted f uh crochet projects though. Um So I'm gonna start from the back and I'm just gonna hang on to that yarn tail there and move it over to the side a little bit and I'm going from here to right up here. And I also want to mention when you are cross stitching if you've never cross stitched before. One thing that's really important is to make sure all your X's cross the same way. Now, it doesn't matter if you start on the bottom or the top or exactly, um, exactly where you're starting as long as you decide ahead of time.

OK. I'm gonna do this part of the X first, the one that slants in this direction or it could be slanting in this direction you can choose and then do the second half of the X later. So, so what I mean by that is they're all gonna be crossing in the same direction. OK. So if I wanted to do my next stitch, let's see.

Where did my chart go here? Here we are. OK. So this stitch right here is represented by that stitch. So we have another two stitches, one right below and then one just to the right.

So I'm gonna place my next X right here coming in from the bottom. And I am, I chose to do all my uh the sides of the X that lean this way first. So that means I have to do that. And then I can choose whether I want to go ahead and complete every X as I stitch like I would go back and put the other side in or I can go, you know, across or down or in some kind of orderly fashion, depending on what the chart looks like and do the first cross of the X first like that and then go back and make the second cross afterwards. But either way that you choose to do it, if you want to complete each X as you go or, you know, do a, a line of them and then cross all of them in a line.

Um Either way you just make sure that the second half of the X is, looks the same on every X, the second half of the X should be, you know, that's the one that's on top and make sure it's leaning the same way for each X like that. Ok. So you would just continue filling in all those, you know, I usually go about it doing blocks of color and then sometimes to help me kind of get an idea of where the next section would start. Maybe I'd put the little green part in down here, so I only have a couple to count over, so I'm less likely to mess that up. Um I, some people will go through and do all of one color first.

Um If mine is in manageable little sections, once I run out of yarn, sometimes I switch around to a different color if that helps me place the pieces. Um, so that they're in the right spot. I hope that makes sense. All righty. Um, let's see.

Patricia say made a queen size blanket with multiple colors and crocheted them together with contrasting color, like patchwork quilt. Oh, that sounds really pretty. Um We've got a lot of people who've never seen Tunisian crochet before. That's awesome. And Brett's mom saying hi to me.

Hi. Hello. I'm glad you love to crochet. That's awesome. I love it too now.

OK, so you're gonna fill in, you know, if, unless you're skipping this part, you're gonna finish your cross stitching on both pieces, the front and the back or maybe you just wanna have cross stitching on one or the other. Um I, we're just gonna pretend that this is all finished. Look at my beautiful cross stitch design, you guys um because we're gonna move on to the next step, which is assembly. So in order to put our pieces together, what I did was I chose to crochet them together because I felt like it was a little quicker. So here I've already inserted a piece into, remember this guy, the very long strip.

I've already crocheted them together along here and I'm gonna show you how to do that when I add this piece, but it's exactly the same. Um You know, you'll, you'll, you'll wanna have both your pieces cross-stitched first before you start the step though. OK. So for this part, I place them together and then I just slip, stitch them together and you'll see once I do this piece um slip stitch those two together and I'm gonna do exactly the same thing right here. 01 thing I wanted to note, um We kind of talked about this for a second before I, as you crochet this very long piece.

I tell you to put stitch markers in the 24th row and then again in the 45th row, which is secretly the 24th row from this end. So 24 down 24 up, you're going to place stitch markers on each side. And the reason that I have you do that is because that's going to help you find your corners. So, um, when you are uh crocheting your pieces together, you will be placing them like this and those, those stitch markers are gonna tell you where the corner of your front and back pieces should line up. So you can pin those together and then make, you know, that's gonna help you distribute all of your stitches.

So I've, I already did that on this one and I removed uh the stitch markers which I shouldn't have on this side. So I'm just going to place them across from that corner. I don't know why I took them out, but we will put, oh because I was steaming it. That's why we're just gonna place them back in here. All right.

And then we're gonna place our like the right side should be facing out. So the wrong sides are touching each other. This is the top of our piece. Here's the top edge right there. So we're just gonna line those up and I'm gonna grab a little bit of, I'll just grab my skein here and I'm gonna start with a, you can, you can just start slip stitching by um inserting your hook and grabbing the yarn or you can start with a slip knot on your hook, which seems a little easier to me.

So I like to do it that way. So I've got a slip knot on my hook and I'm gonna be working through the loops that are um here, the very last stitch, the last Tunisian stitch. So I'm gonna be placing my hook underneath just one loop from this piece And then I'm gonna be placing my hook through one loop on this piece. And because the first and the last stitch of your Tunisian fabric look just a slightly different from each other. I mean, they both look like these.

Um But they're kind of angled a little different. You can choose which loop you want to w work through. Um So I'm working through that loop here in this piece and then on the, on the fabric behind, I'm working underneath the loop that's on the right side of my work. There's another loop back here, but I'm not working under that. So we're just going to go ahead and grab that yarn, pull through those two surfaces and pull through the loop on the hook and insert our hook again through once one through one loop on each piece.

And then we're just going to go ahead and pull that through and pull it through the loop on our hook. We're just basically, we're just seaming this with a slip stitch and for up until we get to that stitch marker. There is a 1 to 1 ratio between stitches in each, um, in each surface here. So each piece there's, you're gonna want grab one loop here and one loop there. So you don't need to pin it at this point.

Um Unless you want to, if that helps you, that's totally fine, then you don't really have to be paying too much attention. All right, I think I'm actually going to switch to. This is my slightly smaller hook. Um You can use your larger hook at this point, but I'm switching to my smaller hook because it has a different head on it. And I really like using this type of crochet hook.

It just makes it a lot easier for me. So I'm gonna switch. So you guys don't have to see me struggling. I chose a very sticky yarn for this. Uh This sample here.

This is not the yarn that I recommended in your uh in the pattern. Download the pattern download. Is this very smooth cotton yarn? So it makes it a little bit easier. Um But I, I ran out of that and I wanted to make another sample and I thought this would make a really nice bag, which it does, but it is a little bit sticky to work with this yarn.

So I wanted to mention too if you guys need a, a review or a little bit more in depth. Explanation of the Tunisian simple stitch that on the creative Crochet corner website, Tony Lipsy has a video up. That's a really great video, very um very to the point and she just explains it just perfectly um if you want a little review and also if you are interested in learning more about Tunisian crochet, she has a new class that you can get to. If you go to the the link that's in your pattern, download it will bring you to Tony's video on the simple stitch. And then in the description of the simple stitch on the creative crochet corner website, there is a link within that description that will lead you to a class that she has.

I think I'm sure that it's going to be um in a more obvious place soon, but that was how I found the class. Um and she is an absolutely amazing teacher and I cannot wait to take her class. So I'll be taking that. That's a four weeks to Tunisian mastery I think is what it's called. All right.

So now I'm gonna be working across the bottom edge here. And when I do that, I'm going to go ahead and just sort of pin these two together because it is no longer a 1 to 1 ratio between this surface and this surface. And the reason why is because we now are stitching the bottom of our stitches. So this was the beginning our foundation row here So we're stitching the bottom of our stitches to the sides of our stitches and these stitches are not perfectly square. They're, I mean, they make a very nice grid but they are just a little bit taller than they are wide.

So it's not a 1 to 1 ratio anymore. So you can just kind of eyeball this and you may find it's easier to pin that corner, pin the center. Um I'm gonna just grab a stitch marker here to do that like that and then we'll work our way across. Yeah. Mhm.

Here we go. All right. Let me just check in over here. See what you guys have to say. Um Hi from Arkansas.

I'm new to your channel. My first live that I can recall. Awesome. Lulu. We're happy that you're here.

Let's see. Oh, and Patricia saying that Tunisian crochet looks like I think it's called Ada cloth. That's the cloth that you use to make cross stitch with. It does because it has that like those kind of ridges and that perfect little square appearance to it. So it keeps all of your cross stitches in perfect alignment.

And let's see. Oh, someone is saying I've never seen this stitch before. It's beautiful. I used to cross stitch all the time. Awesome.

Yeah, I, you know, I used to cross stitch when I was little and then I, I don't know, I just kind of ended up sewing more and do and then doing crochet and then knitting. But now the cross stitch is like coming back into my life. I, it's kind of funny that I got there again through crochet. But um I'm starting to get more excited about cross stitch as well. All right, I just need to get to that next corner and then I will show you, I have one more thing to say about it and then I will show you the top how we deal with the, the drawstring casing and all that kind of stuff almost there.

So sometimes as you're working across the bottom, in order to work into each stitch, you're gonna have to work into some of the stitches twice. So the stitches you'd be working into twice would be the stitches from this narrower band. So in order to go through one of each one of these, you might go through one of these and then through a stitch back here, we'll call that stitch a and then on your next stitch of this, you might end up going through stitch a again and that is perfectly fine. Um It's just because it's not a 1 to 1 ratio between your stitches at that point. Ok.

So we've made it to the corner, I'm just gonna pull those out and at this point now it's back to the 1 to 1 ratio between our stitches. So you're just gonna keep, you know, just kind of go around the bend there and grab those stitches as they come up, go through one stitch in each edge right there. And I'm going through here, I'm going through that back. Um, the ST the edge of the stitch that's closest towards the inside here. So back here it's the second loop just like that.

Ok. So let's just imagine. I slip, stitched all the way up here. I don't need to show you that because I'm sure you could imagine. Um, and let me just kind of tack these two together real quick.

We're just gonna imagine that these two pieces are, have already been slip stitch themed. So I'm just gonna do a quick little tack them in place. All right. Ignore the hole guys. All right.

So now at this point, you're gonna start working, you're gonna use your smaller hook. So I've already switched to that here and you're gonna start working around and around and around the top. So, in order to do that, we're just gonna work underneath the front loop of each stitch as they come up. So you may have fastened off at that point, you can just join another piece of yarn or maybe you, you know, are still working from the same ball and you can just keep, um, continuing like I like I have here, but you're gonna insert your hook underneath just the front loop. Ok.

So normally we put our hook underneath two loops. If we're doing regular crochet we're just putting it underneath the front loop and we're leaving those back loops free. And the reason that we're doing that, actually, there's two reasons. The first reason is one when we stitch around and we leave that back loop open, we're going to be able to work into that loop again later, see how there's that ridge there because we didn't work into that part of the loop. We're going to be able to work into that lay.

So after we create this casing, we're going to be able to fold it to the inside and attach it to those loops back inside there. The other reason that we are working underneath, just the front loops is because I wanted this fabric to be very thin and pliable and easy to scrunch up. So when you use your drawstring, let me show you. I didn't want this fabric to be very stiff. I wanted it to very easily move.

Um So we can, you know, just cinch it closed very easily. So all the, this whole section here, this casing, it's all worked into just the front loops and let me show you. So here we go. That just cinches up so nicely. Um So let me show you what that looks like as we continue working in the round there.

So what you'll do is you'll be placing a single crochet into each stitch around just through those front loops and let me show you the inside So right here, those are the open loops that we did not work into. And then you can see all these horizontal loops here. Those are left over because we kept working in the front loop as we went around and around and around. So when we do that, we're not joining anything, we're just gonna continue single, crocheting around and around and around. So you're gonna make two complete rounds and then on the third round, you know, regardless of where you started in your bag, when you're working your third round, when you get to the sides.

So the sides are right here. You know, between those two seams, you need to make this little hole and in order to do that, you're just gonna chain to skip two stitches and then continue on the other side. Let me just show you really quickly how to do that. I'll just strip this out a little here. So you don't even need to count or figure out where those holes are.

You can just take a look right here at that side panel and imagine your hole is going to be right centered right above that. So you once you get to a place where your, your two stitches are going to be centered, you can go ahead and chain and chain, skip the next two stitches, skip, skip and then work. We're still just working in that front loop. We're gonna just work into those front loops around or just gonna continue. So that creates that hole and then when you come around on the next round, you're just still continuing in single crochet, you're gonna work into those two chains.

I would not work into the chain space. I would actually work into each of those two chains. It just looks a little bit tighter. Um That way, I, I just think it looks a little bit better but it's up to you. If you really hate working into chains, you know, the crochet police is not gonna come after you if you work into that chain space.

Ok. So, um, let me back that up because we don't actually let me be clear about this. We don't actually need another hole here. I was just showing you how to make this hole down here. All right.

So when you're working around, you'll do two complete rounds of single crochet through the front loop. Then on the third round, you're gonna make a hole on each side. So there's a hole there and there's a hole there and then you are gonna finish up through round seven. Ok. So you're gonna have a total of seven rounds of single crochet just working through that front loop only.

And that would mean that I would end right over here because this is where I started. Um, oh, it looks like I maybe w oh I didn't have a yarn tail. That's right because I, I, um, crocheted my piece together and then just kept going. But let me get over there and then we are going to fold our piece and make the casing. All right, I'll do one more stitch.

So this is where I started. I can count my rounds 123456 and seven rounds. And so at this point, I am going to go ahead and fold my piece. Let me just pull this out so you can see a little better. I'm gonna fold my casing like this.

And then I'm gonna do a slip stitch between this layer here and those unused loops from that very first round that we did in the single crochet. So you just kind of fold it like this and find an unused loop. Oops we want to go through through this surface first. Actually, I think I go underneath the back loop. Let me just double check.

Yep, I even have a picture of it here for you. That's what this picture is. So I'm showing you you can go through the back loop of the next working row and then slide your hook through the un oops way down here through the unused loop from that first round that we did. And then you'll yarn over and pull through everything to make that slip stitch. So let's do that again.

We're gonna go underneath that back loop right there and then we're gonna go all the way down here and go underneath the unused loop from that very first round of single crochet like that, we're just gonna continue slip, stitching, working through the back loop of the current row and the unused back loop of the row below way, way below. And so again, this should be a 1 to 1 ratio show. So you should not need to pin it, but if you would like to pin it, that's fine too, if that helps you to kind of remember where you're supposed to be stitching, just grabbing one loop from each edge just like that. Ok? So let me just do a couple more and then I'll show you what it's looking like.

There we go. OK? So you would continue, you would go all the way around to here and then you could fasten off and weave in your ends. And so what you end up with is the this lovely casing where you know, you have access to the casing right here because there's a hole and then you can feed your drawstring um case there you can feed your drawstring cords through there. So um um just in the interest of time, I will just kind of talk you through adding the drawstring.

Actually, I'll, I'll just feed it through the short little space that I did here. So you can see how I use the pin in case you've never done this before. All right. So to make the drawstrings, these are super simple, you're just going to be chaining 85 stitches. I know that sounds crazy.

And I know that there are gonna be many of you thinking, can I just use a foundation single crochet and you totally can, you can use a foundation single crochet if you know how to do that. And you like doing that. Um The one thing that I, the reason that I chose not to use a foundation single crochet here um Besides I wanted to make it like a little bit more accessible to people who don't know how to do that. Um But also I liked that the chain, the initial chain did not stretch out very much foundation. Single crochet will stretch a little bit more than just doing a regular chain and then working into that chain.

Um And so since I was, I'm gonna be using these as a drawstring cord, I did not want them to get very stretched out. So that's why I started with the chain and then I just worked four rows of single crochet just turned rows just super simple. Um And what that does is it just creates a big long rectangle. Here's what it looks like before I stitched it. So there is my four rows and then um to finish off my drawstring chord, I, I actually, I started and ended with a long yarn tail when I, when I made these pieces.

Um and then I am just going to take a yarn tail with my yarn needle and I'm going to close up the top. So what I mean by that is I'm just going to run my needle here, let me move this out of the way here. So you can see a little better. I'm just gonna run my needle through some of these loops just along the very edge of this piece like this. And then I'm going to cinch it tight and that brings it into kind of like a little closed tip doesn't have to be perfect.

And then I'm going to just kind of go through one stitch from each edge. So one stitch from the foundation and one stitch from the last row worked. And I'm just using a whip stitch here. So my needle is just pointing in the same direction every time. And I am just create, basically, I'm just creating a chord out of this.

And if you have other ways of making a chord, you can certainly do that. I chose to do it this way because II I didn't really want to work it in the round. And also I, I did like having that the seam that I'm making here. And also the initial chain really help keep this from getting stretched out. Um Because when you're pulling on your drawstring cord, you want it to be, you know, you want, if you do, you don't want it to be all stretchy, it makes it easier to cinch your bag shut if it, if there isn't a lot of stretch going on there.

So basically I just stitched all the way along the entire cord and, you know, you, if you're like, oh, Brenda, I do not have the patience for that part. Um That's ok because you can completely use something like rope. Um, anything that's kind of, you know about the right size and a little bit slippery would be great, but not too slippery because you don't want it to undo. But OK, so you're just going to whip stitch that closed weave in your yarn ends and then you can feed it through the bag. I'll show you in just a minute.

So if you guys have any, I'm gonna be checking the questions here. But if you have any remaining questions or comments or suggestions on projects, you'd like to see um anything like that. Go ahead and put that in the chat while I'm doing this last step here. All righty. OK.

And then what happened to my pin? That's the real question. You can put that in the chat too. You guys? Oh, just kidding.

I have another pin here. I gotta have a backup because I lose things. Ok? So in order to feed this through your feed, feed the drawstring through your bag. So just imagine that we had actually had time to stitch this all the way close.

So this would be a completely closed casing like this. OK? And the only access to it would be a little hole here that we made and the little hole here. So in order to make this drawstring work, the way it does, let me just pull this over here in order to make it work like this where you just pull on both ends and it cinches it close. What's really happening inside here is you have one drawstring that comes from this side, goes through the hole all the way around the bag and comes back out over here and I tied it to itself.

The other drawstring enters through the other hole right here goes all the way around the bag on the inside. They're both in the same casing together and over here and then I tied them into a knot over here as well. So that way you have something nice and sturdy to hang on to. It looks very cute. Um And then when you pull on it like this, it cinches it closed.

It's very easy. And then you have a nice little, you know, handle to hang on to it or put it over your arm or whatever you like. So in order to make that happen, you would take one drawstring, remember and it would thread that through the hole here, you know, put the pin on the end of it there and you're gonna thread that through and then you're just gonna use the pin, you're feeling the pin and you're pushing it through your drawstring like this. That's what the pin is for. And then you would do that all the way around and have it exit through the same hole right there.

Ok. So I can cheat because I didn't see that shut yet. And actually maybe some of you guys are wondering if you could lay this in here first and then stitch the casing around it and you could definitely try that. It gets a little tricky though when you have both drawstrings in there. It's pretty crowded.

I thought that I was gonna, um I thought that's how I was gonna have the directions uh for this bag. But I changed my mind once I realized it was like a little bit too fiddly when I was trying to stitch this clothes and I realized I was just wasting a lot of time. So for me, it was a lot easier to make the case incomplete and then to thread the drawstring through and then you have those two little ends and then you're just gonna tie an overhand knot. Let me just do that real quick, you know, just tie an overhand knot. You can kind of pull this in and you want the ends of your, your drawstring to kind of stick out by like about an inch or so.

Not very much, just kind of pull them out a little bit like that. And then you can pull it nice and tight to to make sure that it doesn't undo. And then you would do the very same thing for the other piece of, uh, drawstring. You would thread it through, through this hole all the way around and out the same hole and tie a knot and that's it. All right.

Let me just double check and see if I've answered everything here. Um, let's see. Oh, Patricia's wondering if you could use a ribbon for the drawstring. Absolutely. You could definitely use ribbon.

That would be a great option. Um Yep. Just, yeah, that, that's a great idea. Um Oh, and Patricia, Patricia had the idea. This bag would be so cute for bridesmaids with their favorite flower embroidered onto their bag.

Yes, that would be really sweet. Um And Jill's wondering if can Tunisian crochet be used to make clothing items or is it better for accessories? It's great for clothing. Um When you make uh clothing with Tunisian crochet, oftentimes, you will be sizing up your hook quite a bit. Uh You will be using like a larger hook compared to if you were just crocheting.

Um you know, a different kind of stitch, just regular crochet. Um And that gives you lots more drape. Um But Tunisian is absolutely great for clothes. It's great for clothes, blankets, accessories, I mean, really anything that you can make um with regular crochet or knitting, you can make it with Tunisian. Um And let's see, is Tunisian crochet suitable for beginners or is it more advanced?

Well, this particular project is great for beginners. This, this is very simple. Um Yeah, I think it's just as easy as doing a single crochet. Maybe even easier because it's really clear where you put your hook um for the Tunisian simple stitch. So, definitely.

Yeah, absolutely. Let's see. Uh Joshua was wondering if we can have a live stream on designing an Amiga room from scratch and then make it. Oh, I love Amaga Room. You know, that is my absolute favorite project.

Ok. Um That might be too long of a live stream to do that. But I do have, but I, I will think about that. I will think about how I can, I, I will think about that. I, I will not forget about that.

Joshua and I do have an amateur movie project coming up in a few weeks. Um And let's see. Oh, what size needles do you use for this project? Ok. So the crochet hooks that I'm using, I used an I, which is a 5.5 millimeter hook and then the smaller hook was an H which is a five millimeter hook and all the information for everything that I use in this project, all the directions as well as extra pictures and um at least one link, helpful link.

Um those that's all in your pattern download if you want to check that out. Um Yeah, so you'll have a list of all the materials that I used and everything so you can go ahead and make it. And like I said before, maybe you missed this. Uh If you weren't here at the very beginning, there are some mistakes in the pattern. At the beginning of this live event.

I did go through what all the mistakes in the pattern are. Those are being corrected right now. And hopefully we'll be getting a new PDF with the corrected version, um, soon, maybe today tomorrow. Um, it should be soon. But if you're wondering if you're watching this later and you're like, uh, I don't know how, how do I know if it's corrected?

Well, I'll tell you the easiest way to know is if you look at page three and if it says anything about leg warmers on page three, like right here, leg warmers, it hasn't been corrected yet. Ok. So if, if it says pouch instead of leg where we there, then it has been corrected. So that's, that's an easy way to tell. All right, I am sorry about all those little little mistakes.

Hopefully. Um, that didn't get confusing for anybody but you know, you can, you can always go back and watch the beginning of this. Um, when I walk you through where all the little corrections need to be made. So, all right, let's see. Oh, and Brett's mom is saying she, they have my crafty classes, books and DVD S.

Oh, thank you. Oh, thank you. So you were so sweet. Thank you very much. Um I really enjoyed teaching this.

I love Tunisian crochet. It is a really fun thing to venture into after me just, you know, crocheting and knitting for many, many years. I'm finally, you know, learning how to do it and designing stuff in it now and it's just been a really fun journey. Um And I hope that you guys try it out and I hope that you love it as much as I do. Thank you guys so much for joining me.

It's been really fun. Bye.