Glacier Cabled Beanie

Hi, everybody welcome to our live crochet event. I'm Brenda K.B. Anderson, and I'm super excited to show you today, how to make the glacier cabled beanie that I designed. So you're gonna wanna print out your pattern. You don't have to do it right now if you just wanna follow along on the video, but you, or you can print it out if you wanna take a look at your pattern as I'm talking too. But this is what we're gonna be making, these cute little hats. They're very, they have nice squishy cables and the sizing. There's four different sizes, baby, child, adult, and adult large. So you'll find all that information in your pattern and I'm gonna be going through everything step by step. So don't worry about that. If you have never worked cables before and you're kind of intrigued and you're wondering, oh, no, this is gonna be too hard. I say, go for it because I'm gonna be showing you all the steps and you can always go back and watch this video later, if you missed something or if you need a little bit of extra help. So, let's talk about the materials. You're gonna need one or two skeins depending on the size you're making, and depending on the yardage of your skein of a worsted weight yarn, and I would recommend getting an acrylic yarn or a wool yarn. This hat was made out of a hundred percent wool, and it's very soft and very warm. And actually the details for all the yarns that I used in these two samples are listed in your pattern. So if you're curious about what those are, just look at your pattern. So that may help, will help you choose your own yarns too. So you're gonna need one or two skeins of a worsted weight yarn and a worsted weight is that sort of medium weight yarn. It's very often used for afghans. You will find that is like the most dominant yarn in the, like a big box store kind of place. So just to give you a kind of an idea about the thickness of the yarn and you'll need that, you'll need, if you wanna put the pompom on you'll need a purchased pompom and these pompoms have a little elastic loop. Let me show you actually. So here there's a little button on the inside and there's an elastic loop that comes through the top of the hat and goes around the button. So you can pop it off and switch out your pompom, or you can wear it without a pompom if you want to. If you don't like pompoms, you don't have to put the pompom on. That's just totally optional. So you'll need that. And you'll just need a couple of stitch markers will help you keep track of where you're at. You'll need a crochet hook. Mine was an H 5.0 millimeters, but you're gonna need whatever size it is that will get you the same gauge as I have listed in my pattern, because you have to do a gauge swatch first to check and see what your gauges, so that you don't end up with a hat too big or too small. So let's see those are all your materials, not very many things. Oh, you'll need a button and some sewing thread and a sewing needle if you're gonna be putting the pompom on too. So let's see. So first you're gonna check your gauge. You can go, you can take a look at the pattern for instructions on that. I would recommend. Okay, here's confession time, I do not like making gauge swatches. So I sympathize with those of you who are like, I don't need to make a gauge swatch. You do need to check your gauge though. So if you decide not to make the gauge swatch that I listed in the pattern, you at least need to start checking your gauge as you work, you know, work up enough rows, then go back and check your gauge just to make sure. 'Cause it's gonna be disappointing if you just make the whole hat and it doesn't fit. So there's my 2 cents on the gauge. All right, so we're gonna get started making the hat. I'm looking at the instructions page on the pattern. And the first thing is to make the ribbing. The hat is constructed first with the ribbing, worked back and forth in turn rows, and then we form that into a tube, and then we do stitches along the top of the ribbing and work our way upward in the round. So there's two different styles of crochet. Don't worry if that didn't make sense to you, you'll see it all unfold here, but I just wanted to give you the overview. So for the baby size hat for the ribbing, we're gonna chain 19 stitches. So, you'll start a little ways away. You just need enough of a yarn tail that you can weave it in. Make yourself a slip slipknot. This is how I make mine. Just put your hook under that metal, pull it up. And then we're gonna chain 19 stitches. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19. Then we're gonna start working in a stitch pattern called a yarn over slip stitch. And then we're gonna eventually be working that through just the back loop only. And if that didn't make any sense to you, don't worry. I'm gonna show you, we'll walk, I'll walk you through it. This is one of my favorite stitches to use for ribbing. If you have joined me for other live events, you've probably already seen this stitch before, 'cause I could not stop using it 'cause I love it so much. And when I do this, I wanna begin working in the back bump of my chain or the back of my chain. So if you turn your chain, normally we crochet under these, you know, these little V's here. And when we start our chain, some people go through just the back loop or under both. I like to turn it over, so it's upside down, and then see all these little horizontal dashes. That is what I work my stitches into. And the reason I do that is so that the other side of the chain looks like little V, it's very neat and tidy. It looks then both ends end up looking the same as each other. So to do a yarn over slip stitch, we will yarn over and we're gonna work into that second chain. We're skipping the first one, 'cause that's gonna be our turning chain and we go from front to back, pull up a loop. And then we continue pulling through the two loop center hook. So I'll show you that again. Yarn over, insert, pull up a loop, pull through two. Yarn over, insert, pull up a loop, pull through two. So this is very similar to just a regular slip stitch, except for we do that yarn over first. And that gives us a little extra ridge. So we're gonna do that all the way across our chain. And I just wanted to remind you too, that I will be checking the chat box. If you guys have any questions or if you need further clarification on something, or if you just wanna say hello and tell me where you're crocheting from or anything like that. If you just wanna chat a little, I'll be looking at that and trying to answer questions as we go along. So we just continue working across and you will end up with one less stitch than the amount that you chained, 'cause we used that one, that last chain stitch that we did just became a turning chain. So we'll end up with 18 stitches across. This is just for the baby size. The other sizes will be a little bit longer. And this ribbed brim you probably notice is folded up. So it's extra long and it's nice because it's, it makes it extra warm for your ears. And today it is below zero here where I am I'm at the studio. And so this seemed like a good day to make a super warm hat. Okay, so I got to the end of my row. That's what it should look like. Then we're gonna chain one for turning chain. And when you work in the stitch pattern, that's not a very tall stitch pattern. So you're gonna wanna make those chains at the end of your turning rows just, maybe just a little bit tighter than you normally do. And you know, normally when you're talking about making tight chains, you start thinking, oh, we don't wanna make them too tight 'cause then you can't work back into them. It's just a turning chain. So you're never gonna work into that chain. So it doesn't matter. So we'll just yarn over and do a little chain, okay making that a little bit tighter, we'll turn our work. And now we're gonna continue working across, but only in the back loops this time. So normally when you work, you work underneath both of these loops, this loop in front and this loop in the back. You put your hook underneath there. But this time we're gonna work just under that back loop. So we're skipping the front loop and working under the back loop. So it's the same stitch yarn over, and then we're going to skip that turning chain, and work into that stitch, yarn over, insert through the back loop, yarn over, pull up a loop, and continue pulling through two. Yarn over, insert through the back loop, yearn over, pull up a loop, pull through two. So I'll do that a little faster, so you can see what it looks like. And the working it through the back loop that gives it a little extra stretch. It makes an extra ridge too, and it just, that's what makes the ribbing so nice and stretchy and it looks like ribbing. So I just love the texture that it makes it look. This is like a very neat and tidy stitch. So you can see it's starting to create, there's a ridge here and then on the back, there's horizontal ridges there. So the pattern is gonna start to emerge. I'll just get to the end of the row here. And you know, if you've never done this stitch before, if you're struggling at all with it, I would say my recommendation is to, when you yarn over insert your hook, yarn over, pull through, and then see how I grab up here with my thumb and my finger real quick as I'm pulling through. And that just helps it not, I don't know, stretch out that back loop too much that you're working through. All right, so we've made it to the end of our row. And then the pattern will specify how many rows you need to work back and forth. You gonna go back and forth and back and forth, chaining one at each end. And I would, if you've never done this before, or if you're a little newer to crochet, I would definitely recommend as you work back and forth to put a stitch marker right in the last stitch, or the first stitch that you do of the row and the last ditch that you do. That way when you do your turning chain, if there's any confusion about like, you know, which stitch is the first one and the last one, then you'll know. So that'll help your edges look really nice and tidy because if you don't do that and the edge starts getting kinda wobbly, it doesn't look, it doesn't matter as much for the top of the ribbing here, 'cause that's going to be worked into later, but if this edge is wobbly at all, it's just not gonna look very good. It's gonna be kind of frustrating and probably hard to block out even. So, you'll work back and forth for quite a while, making your ribbing. And when you're done, it'll look something like this. This is again, the baby size here. So it's just a long rectangle. It's various stretchy, bounces back. And we have just ended here working across here. I'll put my hook back in. Okay, so when you get to the end, and the instructions that'll tell you to, you're gonna chain one and turn as if you're gonna work another row. So you'll turn it over. Then you're going to take your foundation row and you're gonna put it right in front of the row you just worked. Just lay it right on top so your edges match up. Let's just take a look at this foundation row for a second. 'Cause it might be confusing to look at. These are on the front of the stitch. Those are not the loops that you're working into, these two little V's. You can tilt it upwards to see those other V's here, pointing in this direction. Those are the V's you're gonna work into. And you're only gonna work through the back loop of this row and the back loop of this row. You're gonna work through them at the same time. And that is what will seam them together. So you're gonna ignore that turning chain. You're gonna go through just the back loop of the row in front and then the back loop of the row and back, you gonna then over pull up your loop and pull through that loop that was on your hook. So you're do it again. You're just doing a slip stitch, insert, insert, pull loop through, pull loop through, insert, insert, pull through, pull through. Okay, so we're gonna make this seam all the way across our ribbing to attach it into a tube. And you could sew this if you prefer, but I like to do it this way because well, you won't have as many ends to weave in, first of all, 'cause we're gonna continue on with this yarn strand. And second of all, I had just, I like how when you do this slip stitch seam, it still has a little bit of give to it, a little bit of stretch to it. So it doesn't constrict your stitches. Like sometimes when you seam things together, I don't know. You might call a little bit more attention to the fact that that was the beginning of the end, but there is a seam there, you know? So if you do the slip stitch, it's more of the same texture, and it just has a little bit of give just like the regular fabric. You know, you can, not that you need to stretch it this way, but it won't constrict your stitches. So normally when I do this kind of ribbing and then I start working out along the top, I will flip my piece like this and then continue working. But because this hat band is gonna be turned up as if we're wearing it, we're gonna leave that slip stitch seam on the outside of our hats. So later when we're wearing it, it's going to be covered up by the by the ribbing when we fold it up. So I can't remember if I mentioned this is the baby size. So if you're working on a larger size you'll of course have a larger ribbing. It'll be wider and a bigger circumference. So now we're gonna start working around the edge here. We're gonna just do extended single crochets all the way around and I'll teach you what that is in just a second. And, but we're going to be working one stitch into each ridge. So a ridge or each row end I should say. A row end will look like a stack of V's, or it will look like the valley between the stack of V's. So here's one row here. Here's another row here. Here's another row here. So we're gonna work into each row end. So that means we'll work one here, we'll work one on the valley. We'll work one in the ridge, we'll work one in the valley. And we're gonna do that all the way around. For this particular size, we're gonna end up with one extra stitch that we have to add, and we'll just add it in the very last valley. For all the other sizes it worked out that you just do one stitch per ridge. So we're gonna do an extended single crochet. So that's you insert your hook, pull up a loop and it looks a lot like a single crochet, but we're gonna go through just one loop and stop, yarn over, and go through the two loops. So we'll do that again. Insert, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through one, yarn over, pull through two. Insert, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through one, yarn over, pull through two. Insert, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through one, year over, pull through two. So we're gonna continue these extended single crochets all the way around the hat, one into each row end. And you know, if you were making something, maybe you're making up your own pattern and you don't necessarily have to do one stitch per row, you know, if you're making something else. But I like it in my patterns when you don't have to count how many stitches, you know, because we're working into those row ends there isn't really, you know, you're not working into a stitch each time, we're working into kind of an ambiguous area. So I like it when it lines up and you can do one per row end, 'cause then at least you don't have to count your stitches as you go around. I mean, you can count them and that's awesome. You get extra credit for counting, but I don't know. I don't think everybody likes to count. Some people like to watch TV and they're paying a little more attention to that, and they don't wanna have to count everything. So it always makes me happy when it works out in a pattern that you can just do one to one ratio or one to two ratio or whatever. So when I first started designing this hat, I normally, I'm more of like a process crochet when I'm usually trying to solve a problem or I think, huh, I wonder why there aren't that many crocheted stop socks that are actually stretchy. And then I'll start designing something for that. A lot of times I'm inspired by sort of fixing a problem or something like that. But for this particular design, I was actually inspired by this yarn because I saw that it was on sale. And so I bought some and I just thought it was so beautiful and I'd never used it before. I really liked it 'cause it was so soft and it had this really pretty kind of tonal thing going on. So I was very excited about it. And then guess what? I found that it was discontinued after I made this project. So that was why I added another sample and a different yarn just to make sure that, you know, 'cause I know sometimes people like to use the exact yarn that you made your sample out of. And you might still be able to find it, but 'cause it has been very recently discontinued, but I knew that it might be tricky, so. But I wanted to give you another option. Anyway, I was bummed because I was like, wow! I've never used this yarn before. This is amazing yarn. I'm gonna start making all kinds of stuff, and then, oh, it's discontinued. All right, we're almost all the way around. And then we will set up the row before we start doing our cabling. And you know, if you've never done cables before, they look really complicated, but they're actually not that complicated. Basically a cable is just sort of switching the order that you do your stitches in, so that they cross over each other. And once you see how that works, it's, you'll realize it's not really magic. It's just, you know, moving some things around, doing things in a different order, shaking it up a little. All right, so I'm at my last row end, which is this sort of valley here. And I, for my size, just for the baby size, I'm doing two extended single crochets into that space. And we don't need to join, we're just gonna continue working in a spiral in the round. By joint I mean, we don't have to do a slip stitch and then make a beginning chain. We're not gonna do that. We're just going to go around and around and around. Okay, so the next round we're gonna do, so that was the setup round. The round one, is going to be an extended single crochet, and then we do 12 front post double crochets. So front post double crochet, yarn over, insert your hook, yarn over, pull up a loop. Whoops! Wait, let me show you where I inserted my hook. That was the whole thing about the front post . So this is the post of your stitch here. We're gonna yarn over. And instead of just going underneath that V like we normally do, we're going to go in this around our post from we're gonna pop our hook in, in front of the post and come out, go around the back and come out on the other side. So we're going around the back of it like that. So this is called a front post double crochet. We're gonna insert our hook there, yarn over, pull your loop through there, yarn over and then complete your double crochet as normal, pull through two, yarn over, pull through two. I'll show you that a couple more times. Yarn over, insert going around the back, yarn over, pull up a loop, pull through two, pull through two. When I first learned about post stitches, they were very confusing to me because, you know, this is called a front post double crochet, and we're going around in my mind, at least we're going around the back of the post. And so I thought, why is it not front post? Why? And then I realized, oh, it's because your stitch ends up on the front of the post. It's attached to the front of the post. You know, when you watch here, it's coming off of the front of the post. It's not coming from behind the post. And then it made more sense to me. And now it's just automatic 'cause I've been doing it for so long, but here we go. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine. We're gonna do a total of 12. So that's 10, 11, 12, 'cause these are giant cables. And then we're gonna do one more extended single crochet. Oh, wait, no for the, let me explain this real quick. For the two different sizes, well, there's four different sizes. For the baby size and for the adult size, they look the same and they have the same amount of extended single crochets, which is where the groove is in between the cables. For the child size and the large adult size, there will be two extended single crochets between your cables. So that makes this kind of crack here just a little bit wider. So that's part of the sizing and there are charts in your pattern, let me show you that really quick. Get to that yet, but I'm just gonna show you real quick. There's two different charts, one chart is for the baby and maybe an adult size, and then the other chart is for the child and adult large. So they're labeled here. So these are your repeats. So this is what I'm working on right now. 'Cause I'm doing the baby hat. So I do an extended single crochet, 12 front posts, and then I repeat the same thing over and over. If I was working the other sizes, the child or the adult large size, I would start with an extended single crochet, do 12 post stitches and then do another single or extended single crochet and then start over. So you end up when you're repeating and repeating, you end up with these two extended single crochets right next to each other. So, I'm gonna be my samples for the baby, and then also later on, I'll be doing the child. So you'll see what that looks like. So we do, we've done 12. And then we're gonna do the extended single crochet or for two of the sizes you will do two extended single crochets there. And then you're gonna do the, we're gonna repeat that. So you're gonna do 12 more posts. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight. Oh, it looks like we have a question. Linda, she is wondering if I prefer metal crochet hooks or plastic. You know, I like both, but I have learned to really love these. These are Clover Amour crochet hooks, and these are my favorite because they have this rubbery grip here that's easier on my hand, but I really particularly like the style of this metal part of the hook and the shape of it. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, 10. But you know, that's one of those things that's everybody has their own preferences. I don't think, you know, it's necessarily better, but it's better for me and the way that I crochet. So I think you just have to try a bunch of stuff out and see, but if anyone else wants to chime in and say what they like, you know, what kind of crochet hooks you like? I used to use only the plastic and then I switched to bamboo and then I, once I got a little bit, I wanted to crochet a little bit faster than the metal was helping me get my hook into the stitches a little bit better for some reason, just how I do it. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, we're almost there. So once you get this cable all set up, it gets easier to keep track of where you are. I don't know if you can see this on the video. Maybe it's hard to see, but when you're doing this in real life, the extended single crochets will sit a little further back 'cause the post will be raised. So it's easy to tell the difference between them. So there's my extended single crochet, and then go back and count one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, 10, 11, 12. Do another extended single crochet and then 12 more post stitches. Yeah, like I was saying, once you get your, once you get this all set up and you can see where all the raised stitches are, then you don't have to really do so much counting. I mean, it can help you keep track of your stitches. And if you're a natural counter, if you just always are counting, that's awesome. But if you're not really a counter and you're worried about losing your place in the cables, I think that visually they will stand out and it'll be easy to know where you're at, to keep track of where you're at. Let's see, one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, 10, 11, 12. All right, one more set. So for the different sizes for the baby size and for the child size, you'll have one fewer repeat of the cable section than you do for the adult sizes. So it may look just a little, you might have a different number of cables, if, well you will have a different number of cables, if you are making the adult sizes instead of this baby size. All right, we are nearing the end of the round. Let me count my stitches here. There's my extended single crochet. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, 10, 11 and 12. All right, so I'm gonna use a stitch marker to keep track at the beginning of my rounds, which is right here. But if you don't have a stitch marker, you can use a bobby pin or a piece of yarn or something like that. Also, you can just sort of tell where the beginning of your rounds is because there's this ridge right here. And also your yarn tail from the very beginning will remind you. So if you, yeah, if you don't want to use stitch marker, you don't really have to, but it just helps kind of make you say, hey, hey, we're at the beginning of the round. You better change up what you're doing this time. All right, so for the next round, we're gonna be doing a cable crossing round. So we start out with an extended single crochet, in our extended single crochet right there. Put my marker back in. And then we're going, this is where we switch the order up. So we're gonna do any time in this pattern when you're switching, when you're doing a cable crossing round where you're skipping stitches and going back to work them later, you're gonna be doing treble stitches. Those are a little bit longer and it helps you reach a little further. So we're gonna yarn over twice for a treble stitch. We're gonna skip the first three posts, one, two, three, we're gonna go around the next post, like a front post treble crochet. So we're gonna go around the post, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two, yarn over, pull, through two, yarn over, pull through two. See how it's angling way over there? This is gonna make our cables look nice and twisty. So, the next stitch goes into the following stitch yarn over twice, we're doing front post trebles here. Go around the back, pull up a loop. One, two, three, next stich. It goes into the following post. One, two, three. Now, we're gonna go back. So we've skipped three post stitches. We've worked trebles in the following three post stitches. Now we're gonna go back and work those three that we skipped and we're gonna do this, it as working behind the stitches you just made. So what that means is we're gonna pull these stitches forward and out of our way and work into these stitches. And it's a little awkward to just pull it like that and work here. So what I like to do, we're gonna do again, front post treble crochets, yarn over twice. What I like to do is I'm looking at my piece here. I will duck my crochet hook under there and go in that first post. We're gonna go from, you know, still from right to left, or if your crochet left-handed, you'll go from left to right. You're going around the post. And then I just pull those stitches over and now I can work into it a little easier. One, two, three, yarn over twice, and we're gonna go onto the next one we skipped, which is right here. Pull up a loop, one, two, three. See how these stitches are actually behind the ones we just made before those. So this is what it means when you, when it says to work, working behind stitches just made. That's what we're doing. We're working behind them. That means we pulled them to the front. One, two, three. So we've done three trebles in this direction, and three trebles in that direction that are anchored over here. Then we are going to make a little slip stitch, and the reason we're making this slip stitch is so we don't end up with a big hole in the middle of our cable. So we've worked the post stitches all the way up to this point. That's where we stopped working our post stitches. That was the last post stitch from the row below that we worked. I mean, the last stitch we actually made was here and worked over here. But the last post that we got to as we were we're working this cable is right here. And then the next post is right there. So we've worked this one, we haven't worked this one. We're gonna do our slip stitch in the space that's between those two stitches. So we just insert our hook and pull up a loop and make a little slip stitch. And that just anchors what you've made to this row below so that you don't end up with a big hole there. So we'll do, we're gonna do another set of crossing trebles. And this time we're gonna work them just a little bit differently, but it starts out by looking the same. So you yarn over twice, skip three posts, then you're gonna work into these following three posts, one at a time. So you're making front post trebles one, two, three. And this time, instead of working behind those stitches, we're gonna work in front of those stitches. So we'll yarn over twice and we're gonna work the three posts that we skipped, which are here, one, two, three, we're gonna work around those starting with the first one we skipped and we're working in front. So this one's a little easier. You don't have to, you know, figure out what to do with what you just stitched there. You just push it to the back and then insert your hook from left to right, if you're a right-handed crochetier or from wait, from right to left, if you're a right-handed crochetier or from a left to right, if you were I left-handed crochetier. Do you guys ever try to crochet and talk at the same time? This is a skill, obviously that I am trying to improve on because of my job right now. But yeah, it can be sometimes, you know, you're thinking about your stitches and then the things coming out of your mouth get a little garbled. Okay, so, oops! I forgot to explain. Then we're gonna do that extended single crochet. Whenever you get to an extended single crochet, you just do an extended single crochet in it. And then we're gonna repeat this process of the cables again. So yarn over twice, we're skipping the first three posts, working front post treble crochets into the next three. One, two, three, and then you're going to work behind those three stitches. So you can pull it down like this and find those three posts. And actually I'll do it that way just 'cause this might help. Some of you might like doing it this way. Some of you might like doing it the first way I showed. Some of you might find your own way to do it, and that is fine. However you figure out, oh, you know, whatever works for you and gives you good results, that is the right way to do it, right? And everybody has got their own way. All right, so we've worked behind these stitches are three posts. Then remember we're gonna do that slip stitch thing. So right there. Basically, it ends up being in the middle of there's two cables, one twists this way, one can twist that way and they're right next to each other. It's really part of the same cable, but the slip stitch goes right in between them. Right there in between those stitches, just do a slip stitch. And you'll never work into that slip stitch. It's just there as like an anchoring point to keep you from getting a bigger hole in your, where your cables twist away from each other. All right, so we've skipped those three, worked front post trebles and the next three, and now we're gonna go back and work the first three. And this time we're working in front of the stitches we just made. Like that, when we get to our extended single crochet, we always do an extended into that stitch. Skip those three, one, two, three. Work behind. One, two, three. And then do another slip. And this time we skipped three stitches and we're working our three front post treble crochets right now, and then we're gonna work in front. So basically the pattern for this, you know, if you're the kind of person that reads the pattern and you're like, this is just a garbled mess. I don't understand all these abbreviations. I mean, there is a key in the pattern that will show you what all the abbreviations means. You can go look at that, but I know some people are just more visual people like myself. I really like to have a crochet symbol chart to help me like a picture to look at. So you know where to place all these stitches. 'Cause it can be very overwhelming just to read the words for some people like me. So I made you this crochet chart, which I pointed to before, you can see there's all the post stitches we started with. Here's what, here's the row we're doing right here. So we're crossing over our stitches. The darker blue stitch symbols those are the ones that are in front, that's the difference. The lighter blue ones are the ones that go behind. And there's a little slip stitch right there that's gonna remind you where we're slip stitching to. It's in between these stitches. Actually it goes down here. But if I put the slips stitches down there, it might be confusing in the chart. You might think you had to do something in that row. So it goes, it anchors to in between these two stitches here. So yeah, definitely use the chart if you find visual things helpful like that, because yeah, for me sometimes I read things and then I will go like, what did I just read? I don't know what I just read, so. Let's see if there's anything. I'm a lefty, can you occasionally turn the camera around so that you're facing it? I learned, yes. And actually you can watch, if you watch what I'm doing in a mirror, this is to Jane, if you watch what I'm doing in a mirror, it'll look like what you look like when you're crocheting. So that can help too. Because basically you're just doing a mirror image of the motions that I'm doing. So if you see it in the mirror, then it'll look like a I'm a left-handed crochetier. I remember when I was a little kid I heard about, well, my grandfather was left-handed, he was born left-handed. But because of the time he grew up and the teachers at his school basically forced him to become right-handed, but he still did certain things with his left hand. And I remember my parents telling me about what the word ambidextrous means when I was little and I thought that would be like the coolest thing to just be able to use either hand for whatever. And so I decided I was probably like five or six. I decided at the time that I was just gonna become ambidextrous. And I tried eating with my wrong hand, you know, not my wrong hand, but with my left hand, it's not wrong. And yeah, that didn't last very long. But yes, I have a lot of lefties in my family actually. And so I'm always thinking about, oh, look you guys, I just crossed my cable. This cable let's see in the wrong direction. See this is how, this is what happens when you talk and crochet at the same time. This cable should have been crossing, actually, here's my slip stitch. This cable is incorrect. So we have to flip that around the other way. The reason it's crossing incorrectly is because I stitched in front when I should have stitched behind right there. You know how we were talking about working behind your work, that's what I should have been doing there, instead of working in front. That's what flips your cable and makes it twist in the opposite direction. So it's whether you're working your stitches in front of your previous stitches or behind that, that's what makes your cable twist in a certain way. So there's my slip stitch. We're back on track here. Too much gabbing about being ambidextrous all right. So as you're working in these cables, they are actually, I mean, it might seem if you've never done this before, it might seem like, I don't think I could ever remember what goes what way and what goes into what, but after you do it for awhile and you start understanding where your stitches are and what, you know, look that they create, whether you're putting them in front or behind, then it starts to just become a lot easier to know where you are at and to know which you know, whether to work in front or behind. And you shouldn't have to rely too much on checking your chart or work behind Brenda, there we go. Checking your chart or reading through the directions over and over. Okay, Patricia says watching from cold and snowy Michigan. This is my first Creative Crochet Corner live, and I'm enjoying, but I have to leave. Oh, well you can always come back. And I love Michigan. That's where my husband's family is from. Oops! I think I skipped a stitch in there somewhere. All right, well, I'm going to skip ahead just a little bit, which is gonna make this hat look a little crazy, but I am just keeping my eye on the time and I wanna make sure that I show you the next step and we can move on. So just ignore this crazy loop. You're not gonna do this on your hat. I am just going to attach my yarn over here so that I can continue and you can see what it's gonna look like on the next round. So the first stitch is an extended single crochet on the next round. And then you're going to be working a post stitch, a double front post double crochet into each post stitch and an extended single crochet into each extended stitch all the way around. So the front post double crochet is right here. First one, front post double, front post double, front post double. And now this part, it might be helpful to you if the first time you did this, if you counted to make, as you went to make sure you get enough, because where your cables cross, it can be very confusing and you might end up skipping a stitch by accident, but you just have to look at the top edge of your stitch and look at the stitches behind to know that you are not skipping stitches. You're just stitching them in the order that they come up, but make sure they're not hiding back there. All right, so we've done front post double crochets across those six. We're skipping that slip stitch, 'cause we remember we never work into it. And then we're gonna do a front post double crochets across the next six. Just like that. And then you're gonna continue this all around. So as you work, so you're gonna do three more rounds or three rounds total in between the cable crossing rounds, you'll do three rounds of basically just making the stitches as they come up, you'll do an extended single crochet, and then you'll do posts for the next 12 stitches, extended single crochet, post for the next 12 stitches. And the posts are double front post double crochets. 'Cause we're not crossing our stitches on this round. So you'll do three of those, and then for the two adult sizes, you're gonna repeat that whole sequence again with the cable crossing round and then three more rounds of doing the stitches as they come up, and then you will do a one more cable crossing round, one more round of stitches as they come up, okay? And then that will look like this. Your piece will look like this. See we've just done three rounds even here. And then we did a cable crossing round and then one more round here. And then we're gonna start doing our decreases to shape the top of the hat. So the first set of decreases. So we'll do an extended single crochet in our extended single crochet there, and then we're gonna do a decrease front post double crochet, front post double crusade decrease. So yarn over, insert your hook, yarn over pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two, stop. Then you'll yarn over, insert your hook around the next post, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two, whoops! That was three by accident. Then yarn over and pull it through the last three loops. And that has attached those two double crochets to each other. Then you will do two front post double crochets just as they come, one, two, then you're gonna do another decrease from post double crochet decrease right here, pull through two, yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through two, now you have three. Yarn over pull through all three, okay? And so we're gonna repeat that. So we're doing a decrease, post, post, decrease, decrease, post, post, decrease. So we'll do our decrease here. And then two posts. These are all just front post double crochets that we're doing here. And then another decrease just like that. And then we'll work, and then you'll repeat the same thing, extended crochet and then you'll do decrease, post, post, decrease. Decrease, post, post, decrease all the way around the hat. And then after you've done that you will work one more round of working the stitches as they come up. Let's see. You'll work even, you know, one more round and then we're gonna switch to another color. But, and that was to help remind me that this is actually a larger size. So that was a baby size. This is the child size. Now you can see that there's two extended single crochets next to each other. That was the difference I was trying to explain before. So we've worked our decrease here in our hat. Then we worked one round even, and that's where we ended up. And then we're going to do a cable crossing round. But this time we have fewer stitches, but it's exactly the same as we did before. We're gonna do, we're gonna skip two stitches this time and then work front post. Whoops! We gotta do trebles 'cause we're crossing. So yarn over twice, one, two, three, yarn over twice, one, two, three. And just like before we're gonna work behind our stitches. So we've only done two stitches because there's only four that were crossing over each other here now, a set a four. So now we're gonna work behind those two, okay? And we're still doing front post treble crochets, but we're working behind, one, two, three. Yarn over twice, one, two, three, okay? And then we get to that center section. We're gonna do our slip stitch there, and then we're gonna do the same thing on this side. So we're gonna skip two stitches. One two, oops! Two, three. One, two, three, and now we're gonna work in front. One, two, three. And one, two, three. See what that did? It just crossed over, like, it was just like, we have been only it's, you know, a little bit smaller of a cable this time. So then as you work around, so you'll be doing this cable all the way around, then you're going to continue working your stitches just as they come up for the next one or two or three rounds. It depends on what size you're working. So take a look at that in your pattern. So that just means you'll work the extended single crochets when you get to, you'll work front post double crochets, when you get to the post stitches and then you'll work the required amount of rounds, either one, two or three rounds of that, and then, hey, we'll get to. And then you will, and then after you work your required amount of rounds even you will work another section of decreased stitches. So you're gonna be working, I, you can take a look here, we had four stitches across in this section and four stitches here. Then we reduced them by doing the same front post double crochet decreases. There's a decrease here, a decrease here, a decrease here, and a decrease here. So you're gonna do four sets in a row as you work all the way around, and then you will do another round of just working even into that. And again, this is the child size again, and I'm going to show you the next set here. We're going to do more decreases. So, we're doing front post double crochets, decrease, decrease. Decrease, decrease, just like that. And then we'll do, because we're working the size, we're doing two extendeds in a row and it's single crochets. And then we're gonna do our decreases again here. One decrease there. Another decrease. So this is what is going to be closing up the top of the hat. We have just a couple more rounds to do And let's see. Yep, so you can see now we've ended up with just two stitches. These two stitches came into one. They joined together and now they're just where there were two, now there's one. Extended single crotchets, extended single crochets. And the thing I really like about using extended single crochet with post stitches in combination, is because they're nice and flat, first of all. And so they kind of recess to the back a little bit and let the post stitches really pop forward. But the other thing is extended single crochet that stitch it doesn't lean so much. And by leaning, I mean, you know, if you do a regular single crochet and you work around and around and around a spiral, eventually your, you know, after a couple of rounds, you'll start to notice the beginning of your round shifts to the right each time, just a little bit, if you're a right-handed crochetier or if you're a left-hand crochetier it's, you know, shifts a little bit to the left each time. So what that means is when you're working on cables, then your cable start to sort of have a lean to them. They start leaning a little bit. Okay, we've made it all the way around. So the extended single crochets really help keep them nice and straight. So, let's see, we've done, we'll do one more of the front post double crochet two together. So this is a stitch. So don't just go around one of these and then think that's this, these are not two separate stitches. If you're confused if it's one stitch or two, by just looking at it, 'cause it has two legs, look at the top that will tell you how many stitches that is. It can be a little confusing when you start doing post stitch decreases because you know, each leg of it, you know, can look like its own separate stitch. But if you look at the top where you've joined them together and you've done that last yarn over pull through thing, then that is what is going to be key and you know, if you're confused, is that two stitches? Is that one stitch? It's confusing and you can, in some patterns I will direct people to just work around one leg of the decrease for specific reasons. So you could, you mean you can do that. You can just choose one leg. 'Cause now as opposed to what I'm doing is I'm working underneath both posts basically like under the top of both posts together to pull them together. But I feel like in this particular pattern, I like working under both of them to kind of, I don't know, squish them together a little bit. I feel like it helps form that decrease a little bit more. You're sort of pulling them together tighter. Oops! I forgot to do a decrease there. I am actually supposed to be decreasing, let me check. Yes, I am supposed to be decreasing here, which I did here and then I started talking . Okay, all right, so let me back up a little. When I work around these, I'm doing one leg of my decrease around that decrease and one leg around this decrease. Ta-da! That becomes one stitch. Then extended, extended. One leg around this decrease, one leg around this decrease, pull them together. Extended, extended. One leg around that decrease, one leg around this decrease, yarn over, pull them together, extended, extended, and we've made it around to the beginning of our round. See how that made that become a nice little point. Then, we're gonna do an extended single crochet, front post double crochet. Well we'll do an extended single crochet, which I already did, I kind of forgot. Then we're gonna do a front, oh, let me clarify. This is only for the sizes that have two extended single crochets right next to each other. We're gonna do a decreased stitch to reduce this post stitch and this extended single crochet into one stitch. For the other sizes you don't even need to do this round at all. You'll see that in the pattern. So, but I wanted to make sure that you knew what it was for these two sizes. That's the child size and the adult large. So you'll yarn over, make your front post double crochet and then stop. When you have two loops, then you're going to insert your hook like you're going to do an extended single crochet, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through one, and then you're gonna yarn over and pull through everything. And that has decreased those two stitches together. Then you'll do an extended single crochet here. Now you're gonna do that fancy pants decrease, you gonna go around both legs with that front post double crochet, yarn over, pull through two and stop. Then you're gonna do the first part of the extended single crochet and stop, yarn over, pull through three. Okay, extended single crochet. Now we're gonna do that fancy decrease. I should have just called it a fancy decrease in the pattern. I think that would have been probably easier to read than the big, long abbreviation that I have, but all right. Well, let's see. Oh, we have a tip from Diana that says, if you're watching on YouTube, there's a Chrome browser program that allows you to mirror and unmirror the presentation. It's called Video Mirror. Awesome, that is a great tip. And Tenisha says she just realized she can slow down the speed of her video on YouTube and rewind even though it's live, that's awesome. All right, see these are all so helpful. Thank you guys for putting that information in here. 'Cause those are things that I didn't even know. So, it was good for me to know these things too. All right, so we've done our decrease all the way around. For the other sizes you just you, you know, for the other sizes that don't need that you already ahead of the game. So then you just cut your yarn, leave yourself, you know, maybe a foot or so, and you can fasten off. And I like to do that with like a little slip stitch down here into the next stitch, just slip stitch through there. And then we're gonna close the top of the hat. But if you're gonna put a pompom on the top of your hat, don't close this hole. Well, let me say, if you're gonna put pompom on the top of the hat and the pompom has a little elastic loop like the ones that I used, you're gonna wanna leave yourself a little bit of a hole there anyway. So, you'll go through each stitch from front to back, front to back, front to back, just like this all the way around your hat. If you find it easier, you can just go through the front loop, only if that's helpful. Sometimes I will instruct people to do that. But for this particular hat I liked having that like a thicker, I don't know, a thicker edge to the border of the hole, because that way it really gets, you know, when you're putting that elastic loop from the hat, it just seems a little protected. So I'm leaving my finger in here so that I can tighten the loop a little bit. See how I'm leaving just, I'm just gonna leave a little tiny bit of a hole right here. Just like that. And then you can push your needle to the inside. Oops! Let's see here. Just push your needle to the inside and then you can weave in your end and make it nice and secure so it doesn't come out. So go back and forth through some of these stitches here, and maybe one more time. And when you're doing this, you know, when you're weaving in your ends, it's a good thing if you can split the yarns. I'm using a one ply, so I'm not really gonna do it too much on this, but if you split your yarn, when you're going through it just helps keep a little grip on it. All right, so then you will sew the button of your hat right next to the edge of that hole. So that way here, let me just take this off so you can see. Here we go. So you can sew your button right next to the hole, and then when you put your hat on, or your pompom on your hat, you could just put your crochet hook from the inside to the outside, grab onto your loop like that. And I mean, you can do this with your fingers too. It's just a little bit awkward. And then you can use that to pull it over your button to secure it in place like that, ta-da! Then you have an attached pompom and a finished super cute hat. And although I should mention blocking, you should probably black your hat with the brim, I mean, you can block it with a brim down first maybe, and then pull the brim up and then just give like a little shot of steam. What I mean by blocking, if you're gonna steam block it, you can put your iron on a fairly high heat and then hold it above your piece and just, do not actually let your iron touch your piece. 'Cause you don't wanna actually iron it. You don't wanna press the wool down and you don't wanna burn anything. So you just use the steam to kinda shape it and it'll kind of make your yarn bloom a little bit and fill in, you know, it kinda evens it out and makes it look really neat and tidy. So there's your hat. Let me just check and see if there's anything that anybody else had questions on. That looks like that was it. I don't think I missed anything. So I just wanted to say too, this has been really fun for me showing you how to make this hat, and I really, really hope that if you guys make this hat that you please post pictures on social media. 'Cause I love seeing those and I've been seeing some of the projects that people have been been making from the CCC. And it's always kind of a highlight of my day to see what you guys can do. So, thank you so much for joining me, take care.