Granny Scrap Beanie

Hi, you guys, welcome to our live event. My name is Brenda KB Anderson and I am a crochet teacher, crochet designer and I'm very excited today to walk you guys through this project. We are gonna be working up the granny scrap beanie. So that's what it looks like, obviously and it's right here too. Um So it's just uh I, I really, really love granny squares as you can tell.

I'm a big fan. Um but I especially love them because it is such a fun opportunity to play with, you know, all the scraps that you've already accumulated. Of course, this is something where you could go out and choose the colors on purpose. You can even make it all in one color. If you're just not into, you know, multiple colors or stripes, that's fine too.

Still make a nice hat. Um But I, I just, I really myself, I love playing with color. I love coming up with fun color combinations and putting them together. Um It's just something that I really like to explore. Um And so yeah, so I, I'm very excited to teach this so that you guys can do a little stash diving and make yourself a hat or for someone else because as you know, Christmas is coming up, we've got about a week left.

Um, and these hats are very fast to make, they're extremely fast. Um I do want to point out though that these hats, uh, you know, the granny stitch pattern. There are some holes between the, as you can kind of see, it doesn't make the super warmest hat. This ribbed brim here is gonna be nice and warm because it's doubled over and it's a pretty thick fabric there. But up here, the breezes are gonna kind of blow through.

So if you live in a place that where it's actually cold, like where I live, you're probably gonna wanna think about, um, lining this hat if you plan to wear it for the winter season. So, um, I did a live tutorial a couple of weeks ago where I taught you how to line a hat with fleece. Um, this is something that, you know, you don't have to have a lot of sewing experience or really any sewing experience. You can just try this out. It's not that difficult.

Um, but I walk you through taking your hat that's already been made, crocheted and then create the pattern pieces for the inside. And that might sound kind of scary, but really you're just making a shape like this and I teach you how to draft this piece and, you know, you're gonna cut it out, sew it together. You can either use a sewing machine or you can hand sew it. If you don't have access to a sewing machine, that's totally fine. There's different ways to do it.

And I walk you through both of those in my live tutorial and I did link that in this pattern just in case anyone's interested. So I just want to bring this up because I did line, um, all of the hats here except for this one. I already lined them in fleece here. Actually, let me just show you what they look like. So we have a nice warm fleece lining on the inside of the hat just to stop those breezes from blowing through.

Now, if you're just planning on wearing this hat for like, you know, fashion piece or if you live somewhere that's a little warmer or maybe this is just gonna be your like fall and spring hat and that's totally fine. You don't need to worry about lining it. Um But I just wanted to make sure that you guys knew there is that resource for you. Um And I will teach you how to make a fleece lined hat, which is a great skill to have. So, all right, but today, we're not gonna be working on the lining.

We're just gonna be constructing the hat. Um And it's very fun and simple. This is a great project for, you know, those who are newer to crochet. It's, it's uh yeah, it's very approachable. Ok.

So let's start by talking about the materials first. So I, I used acrylic worsted weight yarn and all of my samples here because I just had a lot of it and I knew I was going to line it anyway and I just thought it would be a fun time to kind of play with those extra scraps. But you can certainly use other fabrics. You can or sorry, other, um, fibers, you can use wool. You can use blends between, you know, you could use alpaca, you could use, you know, any kind of combination of those and you can also use like some stripes of acrylic drum stripes of wool.

You can really just kind of use up whatever scraps you have at home. So, um, so don't be limited, but you do want to look for something that has a little bit of loftiness to it. A little bit of stretch. I would avoid something like 100% cotton, like a dishcloth cotton or something like that because I don't, I think it's gonna be kind of, it'll be sort of heavy and not, it won't have that elasticity and that bounce that we like our stretchy hats to have. So, um, all right, so you're gonna be needing anywhere from, let's see, about 200 about 225 yards to close to 300 yards, depending on the size that you're making.

So there, there are four sizes of this pattern and they are sized from uh a child size or adult small. Um And then an adult, medium, adult large and an adult extra large. So there's kind of a wide variety there. Um If you were interested in making this hat for somebody smaller than a child size, um like a baby, then I would recommend, you know, trying with a decay weight or a thinner weight yarn to crochet this up and make the smallest size. Um And as you'll see, as we work on this hat that you can kind of adjust si the size as you're working on it, um, you can adjust the height, you can even adjust the width.

So, um, we'll talk a little bit more about that as we work our way through this project, but there's lots of possibilities here. Um, ok. So I told you the, the yardage amount that is, you know, in, including all the different colors that you would want to put in this. It includes the ribbing, ribbed brim right here and it also includes the top of the hat. So I did break that into two separate sections because, um, if you wanted to have a solid brim with all one color, I wanted to let you guys know, you know how much yardage you would need just for that one color.

So I do have that listed here. Um Let's see. Oh, sorry, that's the first thing listed. Yeah, for the ribbing. So there's two sections in your pattern.

The first one tells you how much you need for the ribbing. And the second section it tells you what you need for the top of the hat. So, um, that way you can kind of break it down and know if you have enough. But, you know, if you've got scraps of yarn, just grab a bunch of balls of yarn and start crocheting and you can always add more. That's the great thing about this project.

You can go get it, you know, if you're kind of running low on one of the colors, just go grab another one. All right. So you'll need your yarn and, and like I said, I'm using a, a worsted weight, which is a number four and mine is 100% acrylic, but, you know, you can definitely substitute with a wool or something else. Um And then I am using a, an H which is a five millimeter crochet hook. Um But you will use whatever hook size you need in order to get gauge.

So for checking gauge, you can start working on the ribbed brim here or the ribbing and check your gauge that way. And once you get the correct hook size for the ribbed part, so as you're working it up, if your piece ends up being bigger than what my piece is. So I tell you to work through row 14 of the ribbing directions and then I tell you it should be 5.5 inches wide. Um, and then four inches long. So that's in this direction.

So, um, if yours ends up bigger, then try it again with a smaller hook. If it ends with smaller, then try it again with a larger hook. Um, and then I also do have a gauge working through round three of your, the body of the hat. So that's right up through this and then you just measure it across and it is 44 and a quarter inches about from one side to the other, right? That diameter.

Um, ok. So let's see if there's any other notes. I do have a little section about the lining in here. All right. So we are gonna be going over, um, the instructions from the beginning to the end.

We're gonna start with the brimming or the brimming the ribbing, the ribbed brim, the brimming. Um So we're gonna just go ahead and make a slip knot. However you like to do that place that on your hook and we're going to chain 21. It doesn't matter what size you're working on. I made the brim the same width for whatever size.

If that's something you'd like to adjust, you can adjust it with your foundation chain. So if you look at the hat and you're like, oh, I don't really like how wide that brim is. I want a narrower one, then just chain fewer stitches. If you wanted a really wide one, you could chain some extra stitches. So this brim, let me just show you I'll unfold this.

This is folded kind of at the halfway point right here. So just so, you know, that's what it looks like um in the pictures. So you're seeing about half of the width of, of that brim piece, that ribbon. Um I wanted to also mention that, you know, of course, this is a live event. So definitely let me know if there's something you have questions about.

Um or if you have any comments, if you'd like to say hello and uh and we've got some comments already. OK. Tracy is saying, I was surprised to see winners is selling granny square sweaters and blankets. I wonder what winners is. I actually don't know what winners is.

Sorry. I mean, I'm assuming that's a store. Um That is surprising though because granny squares are made by hand. There are some, I have seen some um kind of granny squarish looking stitches but it, I think it's made with the knitting machine, but you can't make it look exactly like a granny square unless you're crocheting it and that has to be done by hand. So that is a little surprising, but yeah, um and rose lemon is wondering how I am.

I am fine. I hope you are fine as well. Um I'm kind of getting ready for our Christmas holiday season here. Well, I've been getting ready for a while now. I'm feeling the pressure to get ready because, um, my kids are in school for one more week.

So now I have, I have, I know I have to get everything done while they're in school because once they're home it's gonna be, you know, the usual chaos. All right. So I'm gonna chain, I mean, to start by chaining 21. So 123456789, 1011, 1213, 1415, 1617, 18, 1920 21. Ok.

So that's what we're starting with. And when I begin my very first row, I'm gonna work into the bottom of the chain. So if you take a look at your chain and you're looking at the top, you'll see all these little vs kind of all in, in a line here. And if we roll that over to the backside, this is the bottom of the chain showing. Now you'll see all these little horizontal dashes along the back and those little horizontal dashes.

That's where we're gonna be placing our hook. Ok. So we're gonna skip the very first horizontal dash which is right there and we're gonna work underneath the next one and we're gonna be working in a yarn over slip stitch pattern. So what that means is we're gonna start with a yarn over, we're gonna insert our hook and then we're gonna yarn over and we're gonna pull up a loop. So this looks like we're, we're doing like a half, double crochet almost.

But instead of doing another yarn over here, we're just gonna continue pulling that loop through these two loops on the hook like that. So that's our very first stitch. If you're newer to the stitch pattern or newer to crochet, I would highly recommend putting a stitch marker every time I grab a stitch marker, it's pink and I don't want it to be pink. Um Putting a stitch marker in that very first stitch and, and you can also put one in the last stitch and that way you're not gonna drop stitches or add extra stitches, you'll be able to see where, where to start and stop. All right.

So we're gonna do that again. So we're gonna yarn over, insert yarn over, pull up a loop and we're gonna continue pulling that loop through the two loops on our hook. So that's a yarn over slip stitch. We'll do that one more time yarn over, insert yarn over, pull up and pull through two. All right.

So we're gonna just continue the stitch pattern all the way across our chain making one yarn over slip stitch into each stitch across. So we'll have a total of 20 stitches when we're done because that very the 21st stitch that we made uh sorry, the 21st chain that we made, that is just a turning chain, we're never gonna stitch into it. Um And so for that reason, it's 20 stitches across. So this is, it's a little bit, you know, go nice and slow if you've never done this stitch pattern before because especially if you've done a lot of half, double crochet before because your body might make you want to do a half, double crochet here. It, it took me a while to kind of retrain myself um to be able to do this stitch pattern without thinking with you.

You know, without thinking to myself, you aren't over insert, you aren't over, pull up and pull through to. All right, I've got two more chains here. Here's the last one. All right, that's what it should look like. And then we're gonna chain one and I like to make my ch turning chains really tight fairly tightly, not so tight.

You can't get the hook through, but nice and snug because it makes a neater edge. And then I'm gonna turn my work just like I'm turning a page in a book like that. And then I'm going to start working across um the next row and I'm still doing a yarn of a slip stitch, but this time I'm going to be working it through the back loop, which is right here of each stitch. So normally when you insert your hook, it would be underneath both loops here, but we're just gonna put it underneath the back loop this was my turning chain that I made that nice tight turning chain. And so this is the first stitch I'm gonna work under right there.

So I'm gonna yarn over, insert through the back loop, yarn over, pull up a loop and pull through two yarn over, insert through the back loop, yarn over, pull up a loop and pull through two. So we're gonna continue this, this is called the yarn of slip stitch. Worked through the back loop or yarn of slip stitch back loop only. And I have recently heard this stitch called something else. I feel like it's something like a half, a half, double slip stitch or something.

I don't know if somebody else knows the other name for this stitch. You can put that in the comments. But um I can't, I can't remember but um this, this, when I first started doing this stitch, it was not very common, but I feel like it's become a lot more popular in the last couple of years. Of course. All right.

So we were, we were just gonna do that yarn over slip stitch through the back loop only all the way across. And because we're working through the back loop, that is what is going to help us create that stretchy ribbing. It, it has sort of all those grooves and um peaks and valleys. OK? And then we get to the end, we're gonna do a chain one kind of tightly and we'll turn our work like that and then we're gonna work all the way across.

Now, don't get fooled by this kind of looks like the top of your stitch here. See how that, there's that V there. What we're actually looking at is the, the backside of the stitch as we, as we made it. So if you want to know where the top of your stitch is just make sure you're not fooled by that V. Look at it before you turn your work and you can even put, you know, you can even put um a stitch marker underneath it.

So as you turn here, we would put it right there. So as you turn, you know which loops are the loops, you're, you know, you're are considered the, the top of the stitch and you're just gonna go underneath that back loop all the way across again. So this because of that yarn over when you make the yarn over, insert you an over, pull up and pull through two. When you do that, you're creating an extra loop back behind your stitch. And so that's what's creating that, that extra loop right there, that extra kind of horizontal bar right there.

And that combined with this loop, they kind of make that V which can be kind of a little bit confusing um because what you, because there's the V on the top of your stitch and then there's the vs over here as well. All right. So you're gonna be making sure that you're really working into the very top like that. All right. So you're just gonna continue making the stitch pattern.

You know, we're gonna do the stitch pattern back and forth and back and forth for quite a while. We're creating this ribbing to go all the way around our heads. Um, so depending on the size that you're working on, uh, you're gonna work either 57 rows 6369 or 75. So just as a little note, if you're newer to reading patterns, and this whole parenthesis thing is confusing to you, just know that these are separate sets of instructions that are based on the sizes that you might be making. So this is the smallest size, this would be the adults, medium, adult large, adult, extra large.

So if you were making the adult medium, you would work up to row 63. OK? So that information has to do with the different sizes. And I did put a link um in the pattern as well in case you are very new to reading patterns, I did a live tutorial on how to read patterns. So you can go ahead and check that out if you're having trouble.

OK. So you're gonna do that for a long time. I made um I think this is a medium, yeah, this is the medium size ribbon here. And so this was 63 rows back and forth and to count your rows, here we go to count your rows. I it's easiest, I find it easiest to count by twos.

So see how there's these ridges here. This ridge was made when you worked across the other side of the fabric. And if you turn it over, you can see there's a ridge right here, that ridge was made in the very first row that we did, which was when the fabric was facing in this direction. Ok. So there's row one and then row two.

So we're gonna count by two. So 2468, 1012, 1416, 1820 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 62 and then 63. So you, when you finished, you have worked an odd number of rows. Your working loop should be on the same edge of your ribbed piece as your beginning yarn tail. OK.

So that means that you've worked an odd number of rows. So I'm going to place that loop on my hook. So we're just gonna pretend I just finished this very last row. Row number 63 or whatever row that you are working on for your size. Then we're gonna chain one and Turner work just like we're gonna work another row.

But this time we're gonna seam our pieces together. So we're gonna grab that foundation chain and bring it up in front of our work. And now you can see that there are two edges here. We're gonna be working underneath the loops that are the furthest away from each other. So we're just working under one loop of each um of each edge.

So here is the stitch right here and we're just gonna work under the front loop of the edge in front, which is right here, here is another edge right here. And instead of working here, we're gonna work underneath the back loop here. So we're working under the front loop and then through the back loop and we're gonna be slip, stitching these together. So I'm gonna place my hook underneath the front loop of the edge and front and underneath the back loop of the edge and back. And I'm gonna yarn over, pull that through both stitches and through the loop on my hook.

Now, let's do that again. So I'm going under the front loop and under the back loop, grab that yarn, pulling it through front loop, back loop, pull through front loop, back loop. And we're going to do this all the way across. This is seaming our piece together. And alternatively, you could certainly do this.

Um You know, you could sew this instead if you like, I liked that this was still a little bit stretchy and I liked that I was able to make kind of a nice ridge as I crocheted these two together. So that's why I did it this way. But there's, you know, when you're making stuff in crochet, you have lots of options. All right, we have got just a few more stitches to work through. Um Kir Tiana says is a yarn of lipstick meant to look like a single crochet but made differently.

I've never seen it before. Um, it looks sort of similar to a single crochet, but it's a little bit shorter and it has this very distinct ridge here that single crochet doesn't really have. Um, it has these little vs right here. And so especially when you work it in that back loop. It's even more prominent.

This to me looks even more like if you turn it this way, it looks a lot like a one by one rib in knitting. That's what it looks like the most to me. I mean, I feel like if you, if you didn't knit or crochet and you just looked at this and saw some versions of knitting, you'd think that this was knit. Most people I think would think this is knit. It also has a lot of stretch to it.

You can see it's very stretchy. That is one of the biggest reasons that I really like the yarn over slip stitch because it is super stretchy and it springs back more than most crochet fabrics do. Some crochet. Fabrics are stretchy like you can stretch them out, but then they don't wanna, you know, kind of pop back into shape. This one does more than most.

Ok. So it's got a lot of nice stretch to it. Um, also the other bonus to the stitch is that it's really easy for me to work into the side edge of this. And I'm gonna show you that in just a second. So that's why it's become one of my most favorite stitch patterns for making ribbons for mittens hats and all kinds of stuff.

OK. So I've finished doing all my slip stitches and then I'm going to turn that slip stitch seam that I just made, I'm gonna turn it to the inside of my work. OK? Because I actually really like how that looks. It blends in really well with the other ridges here, but we're turning it to the inside because when we wear our hat, we're going to fold it to the outside later.

OK. So that's why it's on the inside right now. But later it'll be on the outside. OK? And then just to make things a little easier when we attach the ribbon to the rest of the hat, because we're actually gonna be sewing those two pieces together.

I'll explain a little more about that later. Um But in order to make it easier to sew your hat to this, I like to do one round right here of working into the edges of my rose, it just makes it much easier, much simpler when you're sewing those two together, it's easier to make it look consistent and neat. All right. So when we do that, we're gonna be working a single crochet into each uh, ridge and into each valley between ridges. So what I mean by the ridges, that's where all those little vs are.

So, that's a ridge, that's a ridge, that's a ridge and the valleys are just kind of the spaces between those ridges. So we're just gonna insert an over, pull up a loop and over and pull through two and we'll do that into the valley here. And I'm just going underneath just one strand here if you find that that is creating a big hole, um You can certainly go underneath more than one strand when you're working into those valleys. When you're working into the ridges though. It is very easy just to put your hook right into the top of that V.

OK. So there's my single crochet in the top of the V. Here's my ridge. There's, oh sorry, that was a valley. Here is my ridge.

Here's my valley. And this way, you don't have to worry about like evenly distributing your stitches around. A lot of times when we work into the ends of our rows, we have to be very careful about, you know how to space those stitches so that the edge doesn't ripple or it's not pulled too tight, but this kind of helps, you know, space everything out for you. So we're just gonna be doing a single crochet into each ridge and each valley around. Oh, we got some more.

Hellos coming in. Good morning from Palmdale, California. Good morning. And hi from Musket or Oman. Wow.

And hello watching for from Bedford England. Excellent. And from Brazil. Wow, you guys are all over the place. I'm so honored that you guys are all meeting up here with me today.

It's very cool and we have the, uh, the pattern is very nice. Will this video be available after the live is over? Yes. Yeah, it's ok if you can't stay for the whole thing, these live tutorials, they're always available to watch later. So, you know, if you just see the beginning, you have to go do something.

It's always gonna be available for you to watch later. No problem. Yeah, we understand people are busy and, you know, sometimes you can't make it at the same time as when I'm doing my live. So it's nice to be able to just watch them whenever. Ok.

And, oh, see Wolf Pack Cindy is here. Good morning from sunny and chilly. Central Pennsylvania. Hi, Cindy. And we have uh a Kiana and I'm in, I think SEPA, I wonder if that means Southeast Pennsylvania.

I'm not sure. Sometimes it's hard for me to remember all the abbreviations. You guys. All right. So I am working my way around the top of this ribbing and, you know, this is a step that you could skip if you are just like, oh, Brenda, why are we even doing that?

Um, you don't have to do this. It's just, you'll see later when we sew the top of the hat to the ribbing. It just, um, it helps you kind of, you know, now where to place your needle every time when you're stitching it through. And, and so for that reason, you take a little bit of extra time right now and it's gonna make it a little quicker and easier for assembly later. And you may also be wondering why I didn't just continue working in the round from the ribbing and going up to the top of the hat.

And that is because I wanted, well, first of all, I, I wanted the um orientation of the granny stitch to be looking like it came from the top down because I really like how the very top of the hat looks. I'll show you that in a minute. But also, um, the way of doing this allows you to adjust your hat later to adjust the length of your hat. If you don't particularly like if you make it and then you try it on, then you, you can very easily undo a round or two in your hat or add another round or two in your hat before you completely attach it to your ribbing. And that, that way you can get it just right to the, to the length that you want it to be.

All right, we have just a few more stitches left and then we will fasten off and move on to the top of the hat, which is the exciting part. Right. All right. When you get to the very last, um the last row, I usually end up putting an extra stitch in here because it just feels like there needs to be one. You do not need to have a specific amount of stitches around.

I mean, you will if you're following my directions because you're putting one in each ridge and each valley. But um we're not gonna have exactly the same amount of stitches in the ribbing compared to the hat when we sew it together later. So don't worry too much about, you know, if, if you get around to the end and you're like, oh, I should put, I, I feel like I wanna put one more stitch in that little groove you can, that's no big deal. All right. So I'm just going to weave this in here.

Look at this and you can decide which, whichever if you wanna cut this really long and use that for stitching your ribbon to your hat later. You could do that. If you wanna have your stitching in the, in whatever color the ribbon is, it doesn't matter whether you leave a long tail here or whether you leave a long tail when you are um creating the body of the hat. All right. And then you could go ahead and weave in the beginning, yarn tail as well.

So let's talk about the top of the hat here. Let's get started on that. So all of the sizes are going to begin with the same first three rounds. So they're all gonna look the same no matter what size you're working on. So we are going to make a chain of three.

So I've got my slip knot on my hook and I'm gonna chain 3123. Then I'm going to make a slip stitch into that very first chain. I made like this and I created a tiny little loop here that I'm gonna stitch into. Now, if you feel like this is just too small to see and it's frustrating, then go ahead and chain four. And that's gonna be perfectly fine and I'll, I'll show you a little trick to make that smaller later.

OK. So then we're gonna chain 312 and three. And then we're going to place 17, double crochets into that little space in the middle. So did you make a double crochet? You'll yarn over, insert yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two.

You aren't over, pull through two. OK. So now we have this chain three, which is gonna count as the first double crochet and then this double crochet, which of course counts as double crochet. And we want to have a total of 18 including that turning chain. OK.

So we've got two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17. And here's our 18th stitch. Ok. Then at the very end, we're going to make a slip stitch into the top of our turning chain. OK?

So the third chain that we made there, which is right here, just going to grab that yarn, pull through and pull through the loop on our hook and then we'll cut that off leaving up a few inches so that we can weave those in later. OK? So we're gonna yarn over and pull through just to fasten off. So now we just have this little circle here and then our next round is going to make that circle look like a star. Actually, I'm gonna use a lighter color so you guys can see a little better.

All right. So our next color, we are going to place a slip knot on our hook and this is how I start off every round in the body of this hat. So I placed the slipknot on my hook and then I'm going to find any space between stitches. OK? So you can just put your finger in there, find a space between stitches.

I usually like to pick the space right before um right before the turning chain. Just I don't know why I just always do to be consistent, but it really doesn't matter. So you're gonna go in any space between stitches and then yarn over and pull your loop up and pull through the loop on your hook and that's gonna anchor your yarn. And then we're gonna chain 21 and two. And that is gonna count as a double crochet.

And now we're gonna place two more double crochets into the same space between stitches. So you're an over insert, you're an over pull up, you're an over pull through two, you're an over pull through two, you're an over insert, you're an over pull up, you're an over pull through two, you're an over pull through two. Now we have three double crochets. Actually, I'm gonna show you guys I did for those of you who are more visual learners. I do have a chart in the pattern of the first four rounds of each size here.

OK? And really, that's kind of all you need to know after that. Everything else is just kind of working even. Um So if we were working the size small chart, we would be following this section here, but you can see all of rows, number, sorry, rounds number one through three are the same for each size. They're all exactly the same.

It's only on round four that things get a little different and we're increasing more on some sizes than others. So I'm gonna be showing you um if time allows, I'm gonna be showing you the increases for each size. Um I think, I think we'll have time for that. We'll see how that goes. So, but for all of the sizes, it's still the same.

I will let you know once that starts to change. Ok. So here we have um if you're following the chart, we've just done that black round is the 18 double crochets all worked into that little chain. Three space. Now we're on the blue round which is number two.

And we started here where those two chains are that beginning, double crochet, that turn um beginning chain that's counting as a double crochet. And we did two more double crochets. So we're gonna move over to here and you can see that there are six double crochets all pointing to that space between um this stitch and the next stitch. So in this, in the body of this hat, we are never actually working into the tops of our stitches. We're just working between our stitches.

So you'll see what I mean. But if this is our first double crochet, that turning chain, here's our next double crochet. Here's our third double crochet. So I'll put my thumbs between, you can see there's a group of three double crochets right there. We're gonna skip those three and then we're gonna do six double crochets into the next space.

So yarn over and we're gonna go right here and make a double crochet. Ok. So we've got three double crochets right there and now we're gonna be working in between those, the third and the fourth double crochet of that. The previous round, we're gonna be doing six double crochets. So here's two, three, four, five, six.

Ok. So there's six double crochets right there all going into that space. Now we're gonna skip these three double crochets, these three gray ones and we're gonna work between that third one and then the next double crochet and we're gonna do the same exact thing. We're making six double crochets. Three for five, 60, I'm getting behind in my comments.

You guys let me catch up. Ok, here we go. Um, ok, we've got Mama Cole saying here from Rhode Island. Hello and hello from Spain and yes, that was Southeast Pennsylvania. Yeah, you don't need to be sorry.

It's totally fine. Um, hello from Washington DC. Hi, Holly Irene says hello from Mexico. Hi, Irene. And we have a hello from Saudi Arabia.

Oh, my gosh. And another hello from Saudi Arabia. Two in a row. That's cool. Um, and sea wolf pack is saying I like this ribbing better than the one created by every other stitch going into the front post.

It's stretchier. Yeah, I do too. I mean, sometimes I use that ribbing. I do like how that one looks but this one, it just seems like it springs back better and it is stretchier. Yeah.

Um, and see wolf peck is saying, if we don't change colors, can we keep going without cutting the yarn? Yes, you can. Let me think. When I get to the end of my round, I will talk about that. If you pick the space before the turning chain, you can work over the ends as you go.

Right. Yes. That, that you can certainly do that sometimes. Um, with granny squares sometimes I guess it depends. Like if you're, if you're gonna line this hat anyway, maybe try that and see how it's working for you.

Sometimes I will do that. Certainly with smaller gauge yarns. I often do that. Like if I'm making a granny square with a sock yarn because your stitches are so tiny and the space between your groups of three is so tiny. I often do that with these, um with the worsted weight yarn.

I do it sometimes and sometimes I don't. Um, it just sort of depends, sometimes you can kind of see that extra strand in those little holes between we, we'll talk about that and I'll show you guys what, what Cindy means. Um Because yes, this how is gonna create a lot of ends to weave in. And so Cindy is pointing out something that's very important because if people hate weaving in ends, this is a great way to take care of those ends as you're working. So I will show you guys that, that would be helpful.

Thank you C wolf pack for bringing that up. Um Let's see, Kiana saying I've seen many crochet ends, crochet over the ends like that. Yes, you don't, you don't even need to go into the spot before it just hold it across the top of your stitches as you go into the holes. Oh, yeah, she's talking, that's what she's talking about. Ok.

It being the tail you wanna go over. Ok. Yeah, we're gonna, we'll talk about that. Ok. So we've gone, we've gotten to six double crochets there.

We're going to skip the next three, double crochets from the previous round and do another six right here. So one to three, four, five and six and then we'll skip the next three and do six right there. So we're just stitching between our double crochets from the previous round. Ok. So you skip over three and then you make six double crochets between that third, double crochet and then the next one, if that makes sense, we, this is kind of making our gray round.

Be grouped into threes. All right, we've got six there skipping those three. We're gonna work right here and place six more. 12, three, four, five, six right there. And now we're back at the beginning, we've already worked between those stitches, but you can see we only have three and so we're gonna do three more to end this round.

So I'm gonna crochet over this pink yarn tail by moving it to the side. You don't, you don't need to do that if you don't want to. So one to and three and then we're gonna make a slip stitch join in that top of that turning chain right there. So if you, um I'm going back to Cindy's question about if you're not changing color for every round, you want to make a solid colored hat and you're not gonna be fastening, fastening off on each round. If you just go ahead and, and um, slip stitch it there right where we did, then you can, you can do another little slip stitch over here and then you can begin your next round like this without fastening off and then you can do your double crochets.

So I think, let me look at this for a second. Yeah, I think that that would be the best way once when you do that, finishing slip stitch instead of fastening off, you'll just kind of go in the stitch before like you'll go into the space that is between the end of the round and the beginning of the round. If that makes sense and do a little slip stitch there and then you're ready to start your next, um, your next round. I hope that answered your question. OK.

All right. So we're gonna fasten off. So for those of you who are switching color at the end of every round, you know, you're just gonna slip stitch, cut your yarn and fasten off just like I did here. Ok. So we're gonna do round number three.

I'm gonna use blue so you guys can see a little better. I think I'm gonna again begin with just a slip stitch on my hook and then I'm gonna go in between. It really doesn't matter for this round, but you're gonna go in between, you know, any of those groups of, let's see, how do I explain this? These are gonna be in groups of three. Now see actually, if you see what happened here, that was a very solid gray circle.

But because we put so many stitches, it divided the gray into three here. Three, here, three, here, three, here three. Here. That's what we're gonna do with this round. Also with the blue, we're going to be dividing up these groups.

So this is like six double crochets here, but we're gonna be working as we work our way around. We're gonna be placing stitches between groups of three. So think of these as instead of a group of six, think of it as two groups of three. So when you join, um the most straightforward way to join is to just go ahead and join right here between the last stitch of the round and the first stitch of the round right there. We're just gonna do a little slip stitch and then we're going to change to one and two.

But really, you could join this anywhere you wanted to as long as it is, um between groups of three, you know, three double crochets. All right. Now, we're gonna add two more double crochets right here. One and two. So now we have three double crochets right there.

Now, we're gonna skip the next three, double crochets, three pink ones and we're gonna go in the space between this group and this group and we're gonna do three double crochets. So 12 and three and then we're going to skip the next three and do three, double crochets before the following three. So one, two, three. So those double crochets are packed pretty closely together there. So you do have to kind of, you know, you can use your finger to find that space right in the middle of those six.

So, you know, just make sure you count them 123 and then there's your space, right? Yeah. So we're gonna do three double crochets right there. So we're doing a group of three between our groups of six pink stitches here. But we're also doing a group of three right in the middle of those six if that makes sense.

And we are not increasing at all in this round. This is just um one, we're basically going to end up with the same amount of stitches as the previous round, which is fine because the previous round, we did a lot of increasing all at once and you may have noticed it made our piece very roughly looking, but this round is going to straighten that out. You can even see it happening here. This is pretty flat and this still wants to be, this edge still wants to be roughly because there's just so many stitches packed in there. All right, we're getting pretty close to the end of our round here.

We're just doing those groups of three double crochets around. And this is again, this is the same for all four sizes. We should all be doing the same thing at this point. But the following round is where things um change depending on the size that you're working on. And this at the end of round number three, this is a good time to just check your gauge measure across your circle.

And um you know, see if that's pretty close to being on target. All right. So we've worked all of our way all the way around and now we're going to slip stitch in that very first turning chain. Last time when we finished up our round, we ended up stitching into the same space where we had already stitched. But we're not doing that this time because we're not increasing.

We only wanna have one group of three there. So we're gonna slip stitch right here just to join and we will cut our piece. All right. So now to start the next round, if we are, so if we're working on size small. I want to call your attention to.

There are areas where we are making increases and there are areas that we are not. So we're gonna begin here. And you can see just by looking at this chart, there are six double crochets pointing in the space between stitches here. There's six here, but there's only three here pointing to that space. Now, there's six here and there's three here and there's six here and there's three here.

So we're alternating whether we're, you know, adding that extra group of three or not. So let me show you what that looks like. Uh Let me, I'll pick this color. This will show up brightly. All right.

So we're gonna start with a slipknot on our hook again and we're gonna join our work just to the right of where we fastened off. So this is, um, what Cindy was talking about about working over your yarn tail. I'm gonna show you guys that now. So we're gonna do a slip stitch right here and then we're gonna chain 21 and two and we are going to do two, double crochets into that same chain like and the sorry into that same space between stitches. So we're gonna do a double crochet and another double crochet.

And you can see there's a yarn tail here from our previous round. There is actually another yarn tail also from the round that we're working. You could try working over both strands at a time. Um But what you might see when you do that is you might see this orange kind of showing up against the blue, you could try it and see how you, how you like it. And this all just depends on how much you don't mind waving it ends.

You don't have to do any of this um uh crocheting over your yarn ends. You can just weave them all in later. But this is, you know, a special tip for if you just really don't want to weave them in later. OK? So we're gonna yarn over and we're going to work into that next space between our three double crochet groups.

And let's see this time, we are not doing an increase here. So we're just doing three double crochets into this space and we're gonna be doing that around that yarn tail there. We're encasing it as we go. So one, two and three and I'm gonna tug on that just a little so that it's not, not um showing up, it was kind of um loose between stitches there. Now, we're going to work into the next space and we're gonna do six, double crochets.

So one, two, three for, I'm still working over that yarn tail. I'll show you in a second five and six. So we're, we're just crocheting over this yarn tail. So you can see there's a little strand right there that you can see. But it's the same color as the stitches behind it.

So it's really not a big deal and then we're gonna move on to the next space and we're gonna do three double crochets so we can continue working over that yarn tail. I usually do it for, you know, three inches or so, something like that. And now we're going to go to the next space and we're doing six double crochets 12, three, four, five six. And we'll move to the next one, two, only three here. And then we're gonna do six in the next one, two, three, four, five, six.

And then we move to the next space. One, two and three. All right. I'm gonna just continue working in this pattern, alternating between six double crochets and three. And again, this, you know, this amount of increasing is only for size small, the smallest size, OK.

There will be different places for the increases in the other sizes which I will talk about in just a minute. Uh I also wanted to mention too if you guys are interested in learning another way of taking care of those yarn ends. I did do a blog post about this on the creative crochet corner website where I figured out a way to crochet in your ends as you go, it takes a little bit of extra time as you're making it. But then you don't have all those ends to even later, which is kind of nice. Um I don't know if it's really faster than weaving in all your ends later, but it's certainly nice to be done and not have to weave in those ends.

So if you guys want to check that out, there's a blog post on it. I also did teach this, it when I worked on my live event for the picnic blanket tote on the craftsy website. I did a little demonstration on using this technique because I made a very large blanket and it was all granny squares and I just didn't want to weave in all the zones later. So I figured this, that's how I figured that little um technique out. And so I did a little live um tutorial on that.

OK. So we've made it almost all the way around to the end. This is where we had started and we're gonna add three more double crochets right there in that same space. One, two, three. And then we're gonna slip stitch right in the top of that turning chain and we can cut our yarn.

So you can see on the back right here, this is where we carry that yarn along and we crochet over it and you can just cut that or if you wanna have a little extra security, you could weave it in just a little bit on, you know, on the back side there as well. You just, you know, by carrying it that far, you don't have as much, you know, you don't have to weave it in, in a bunch of different directions. You could just kinda stab it through in the opposite direction and cut it off. Um, it's kind of up to you, but it's a nice way to take care of those ends. If you really don't like weaving in ends.

I don't really mind as much. So, usually I, I find myself just opting for weaving them in later. If it's a project like about the size of this hat, then it's not really a big deal to me. All right. So here, this is what it looks like for a size small.

And then after you get to this point on the size small, that's when you just start working even. So we kind of did this already where you place three double crochets between, you know, when you have six double crochets, there should on the next round, there will be three double crochets right there, three double crochets there, three right here and three right here, right in the middle of those six double crochets. OK? So either in the spaces that are already here, but also at the halfway point between those groups of six, OK? And then once you do that, it's a very obvious where you put your groups of stitches, you just, you know, work into the spaces between your three double crochet groups until you are done with your hat.

Um So if you are working on size medium. Um It looks like we're running a little short on time. So I'm just gonna kind of do the very beginning of each size. So if you're working on a size medium, here we go, you can see in the chart we're gonna start out the same way we did before. Um, we're gonna just, you know, start out between any group of three double crochets and we're gonna make a slip stitch and then we're gonna change you and we're gonna do two, double crochets, one and two.

So that's where we started. And the next one, we're gonna call this an increase. Ok? So when we have six double crochets into that space, we're gonna call that an increase. So we're gonna do an increase, a non increase, an increase increase, non increase.

Ok. So the pattern is, is there are, there are two increases in a row and then one increase and then two in a row and then one. Ok. So this is halfway through one of those increases because we're stopping and starting kind of in the, in the middle of that increase. So we're gonna start with this and we're gonna move to the next increase, which is um, six double crochet is 123, bore five, six.

Ok. So, so far we have three in the first space six in the, in the next space we'll do three in the next 11, two, three. And now we're gonna do t um, two groups of six. So this is the first group. So one, two, three, four, five and six.

And here's the next group, one, two, three, four, five and six. Ok. So now we've had two increases in a row. So the next one would be just a group of three right here. Ok.

So we go, we're just doing um, 22 increases and then a non increase, two increases and a non increase. And we're gonna repeat that and we're gonna end over here by adding, you know, three more double crochets into that very same space where we started. OK? And then we'll slip stitch to close that off. So that is for a size medium, I'll just pull that out and for a size large, we would, you can see here we've got, we start with the same three that I just showed you.

OK. So we pull up a loop between stitches, chain two and make two double crochets. Then we're gonna do increase, increase, increase. OK. So the increase means 66 and then there's six here.

So we'll do that. So one, two, three for five six and right here, one, two, three, four, five, six. OK. So, so far we've worked up to here, we've got 12. OK.

So then we have two more groups of 61, two, three, four, five six and here's the next 11, two, three, four, five, six. OK. And then you can see right here, there's only three double crochets that come next. All right. And if you take a look at the whole outside of here, every single space between your, your groups of double crochets.

So here, here, here, every single one has six in it, except for this one and this one and they're exactly opposite each other around that circle. OK. So the next one would just have three and then you do six and all the rest until you get to the very last space that you haven't worked into. So there would be three right here and then you finish up by putting three more into that same space where you had started and joining. OK.

So there's only two spots where you don't increase. And then for size extra large, this one's very simple. So I'm not even going to demonstrate it. You're just gonna be doing six double crochets in each space that you have all the way around. OK.

So you just continue all the way around making all those double um six double crochets into each space. You're gonna get around to the end here and you'll complete it by doing three more and doing a little slip stitch there. OK? So that's the fourth round for all four sizes we've talked about every, every size and then at that point that's when you're just gonna be working even. So I just want to point out when you're doing that you just need to make sure that you don't forget to work your three double crochets in the middle of any groups of six that you come across.

Ok. So you're just gonna be doing three double crochets in those spaces, but when you, if you come to a group of six, you're gonna be doing three double crochets right there. Ok. So that's what you're gonna do all the way around. Um, and then after that, it's just smooth sailing.

You're just going to be putting, you're just gonna be working three double crochets between each group of three, double, double crochets and fastening off all the way until you have a piece that is like this. OK? So you can see all of those rounds that I've done here and then you'll just fasten off so you can cut your yarn leaving. I'm I like to leave a long yarn tail for doing my seaming. So maybe that's even pretty good.

And so you'll cut your yarn tail and then just draw that through like that. Now, we have a nice long yarn tail we can use for steaming our hat together. So when you put your hat together with the ribbing, um oh looks like we have a question was the finishing slip stitch for round two in the back loop only or both loops. Um You can choose whether you want a slip stitch into the back loop only when you're doing. I'm assuming you're talking about.

Ok, round two, um, the top of that turning chain when you're doing your slip stitch, it's really the, you know, the second chain that you make at the beginning of your, of your rounds. I usually do it in the back loop only because it seems to lay a little flatter, but you can certainly do it under both that kind of twist the stitch a little bit if you want to. It really doesn't make a difference how you do it. You can join it, you know, with the slip stitch, however you like as long as it's at the top of that turning chain or beginning chain, I should say. All right.

Um, ok. So when you're sewing your pieces together, you wanna make sure, you know that you had turned your slip stitch to the inside of your ribbed piece. I like to hold it this way because for some reason that's just easier for me. Um, and you can see that my ribbing is smaller. Actually, the circumference of my ribbing is smaller than the circumference of my hat.

And that is intentional. I want the ribbing to have to stretch to fit on the head. And I didn't want the granny square stitch pattern to have to stretch as much. So, um, when you're sewing these two together, you can't just kind of, but them up and then just start sewing around, you really have to kind of pin your pieces together and I to do that, I would recommend using stitch markers or safety pins just some way of, um, you know, making sure that those pieces are going to stay, stay where you put them as you're sewing. All right.

So I will just pin start anywhere, um, and pin those two together. And then I'm gonna bring that over to the side edge like that. And then here's my other side edge and I'm gonna pin these two together over here. So now we know that they're evenly distributed and then we can kind of find the midpoint here. I'm stretching out my ribbing just a little bit.

So it's the same width as my hat. And I'm gonna put that together with stitch markers and again on this side as well like this. All right. And you can put in lots of stitch markers. If you find that, that's helpful, you can definitely add a stitch marker between like you could, if you feel like this isn't really enough and it's going to be wiggling around on you, you can put stitch markers between.

You can also do something where you're like actually kind of sewing with your stitch marker. If you go in through both pieces and then you go, you're basically like taking a stitch with your stitch marker, then it doesn't shift around quite as much because you're kind of going through it in two places there. This see how this one, it's kind of a large stitch marker. There's a lot of play here and it can really wiggle. This one's not as wiggly because I went through it twice.

So that's just another little technique you can use if you feel like things are moving around on you. Um And then I'm just gonna do a whip stitch here. You can do a mattress seam. If you prefer, you can sew it with, you can turn it so that you have the wrong side facing. I just find, I, I really just like doing whip stitches.

I'm not afraid to see like a little bit of stitching as long as it looks neat. Then I, I kind of like how it looks because it feels like it belongs with something that's sort of a patchwork patchwork feeling of the, of the granny square. So I'm just using, you know, a whip stitch, which is in my mind the most basic sewing technique for putting pieces together in crochet. So I'm just grabbing both loops from each surface and I'm just gonna continue all the way around. And so, um, you know, another, another thing I wanted to mention too, if, if you really don't like the look of this and you still want to do a whip stitch, but you wanna blend it, have it blend in something to think that you could think about is finishing the very last round of your hat in a color that matches your ribbing because then when you do this whip stitch, it'll blend right in, you won't even be able to see it.

You can also, I mean, if you've never done a mattress stitch before, it's a really good skill to know how to do that. Um So I recommend checking that out if you want to have two pieces that just kind of butt up next to each other. Um And you can't even really see your stitches then. So that's kind of a nice, a nice technique to know how to do as well. And when, when I do this, I make my stitches fairly tight, but you don't want them so tight that you're giving up any stretch that you might have had.

So just kind of be aware of that, you know, don't make them so tight that you're like really pulling on it. So, oh, and I, I was gonna mention this too before you actually seam this together. If you would like to pin it together all the way around and put it on your head and fold up the brim to just check the length of the hat. And if you like how it looks, that's the best time to do that before you actually sew these pieces together. The I, I really like um I like designing things where the person making them can fit things to, to their, you know, their style or their size.

Um And then not have such a hard time altering it, you know, so if we had made it from the bottom up, it might have been hard to tell what it was gonna look like before you started doing all, like the decreasing at the top of the hat. Um, so the bonus to sewing these two together, even though I know a lot of people are like sewing Brenda. Why, why are you doing this to me? Um, I'm doing this because it makes it really easy for you to kind of fine tune the length of your hat. And it's, it's a great opportunity to, you know, make it shorter, make it longer and make it really fit exactly how you wanted it to fit your head.

Ok. And Holly said exactly what I was wondering. Thanks. All right. Excellent.

Yes, I'm glad you guys are asking questions because it really, I feel like when you guys are really active in the chat and you ask me questions, it makes me think about things from other perspectives and realize. Oh, yeah, these are some, some of these things I'm just, you know, automatically doing and I'm not talking about. But I'm glad you guys asked questions because it really helps me. I feel like it helps me be a better instructor. So, thank you.

And if you guys have other, you know, thoughts about things you'd like to learn, um, or projects you'd like to make. Definitely put those in the chat as well. I like getting inspiration from you guys. And um I, I enjoy thinking about things from other perspectives and I, I like to know what you guys are interested in making. So right now I am working on a design for a tea cozy.

Somebody had suggested that in one of my last live. So, um yeah, so I'm, you know, I do, I do take your suggestions. All right. So we made it all the way around. I'm just gonna very quickly weave this in.

Probably not very well. I'll just tuck it into the inside. Probably. So we get it out of the way. And then I just, one last thing I wanted to show you guys and that is about blocking.

So, um I know I probably lost a few of you there. You were like blocking, I don't care about blocking. Um But I wanna say if you've never blocked anything that you made out of acrylic before and the reason I'm talking about this is because this hat was made out of 100% acrylic. Um You may not realize what a difference it can make. I think there's a lot of people, there's sort of like this idea that blocking only works for wool.

Oh And if you don't know what blocking is, it's just kind of a way of getting your piece wet or using steam to shape your piece and it kinda evens out your stitches and makes things look a little more professional. Um, a lot of people are too excited for that step and they just kind of skip it. Which, I mean, I don't block everything I make. Let's be honest. But I do, I do block most of what I make because I've seen what a difference it can make.

Um, especially my acrylic pieces. So I'm just gonna show you the difference here between this has been blocked. So it's nice and wiggly. This one has not been blocked because I just made this and it's very stiff. And if you've ever made something in an acrylic and thought, oh, I can't get very good drape with that.

It's just because it's acrylic and whatever, it'll just, it is what it is. Um If you have not tried steam blocking, I highly recommend it. You will see a difference in this piece. Um Once we steam block it. So, let's see.

This is hot enough. Maybe not quite. I need to give it another, another minute here to heat up. Um Let me just check and see how we're doing on questions. Oh, let's see.

Oh, yeah, I'm behind. Ok, let's see. Miss Manny Max says love the hat. Do you have a pattern for your sweater? Oh, thank you.

This sweater I designed the sweater for we crochet. So if you guys aren't familiar, that's a crochet.com is the website. It's a yarn company. Um, and it is, let's see, I gotta think about what it's called because I didn't actually name it. I think it's called the Birdie Cardigan.

Um but it is part of a collection you can buy, you can get, you can get the pattern individually. Um It is a purchase pattern. Um but it comes in a collection of a bunch of other granny square patterns. And the cool thing is, is you can, I have different types of granny squares and you can switch, swap them out like for each other for different styles of granny squares. And you can even use multiple granny squares in one project.

Um Oh, see Wolfpack says Brandy, you just answer my question if we could make it bottom up before I could finish typing it and you could totally could make it bottom up. Um You just have to kind of, you know, just know that you, when you're doing, you, you're just gonna have to figure out how to do your decreases. But you could kind of look, I bet you Cindy, if you wanted to make it the bottom up, you could look at the, the chart for the top where the shaping is and you could kind of reverse shape that I bet you could. Um Yeah, I bet that would be enough to do that. And you know, just because I made it top down and I'm explaining all the reasons I did that, that doesn't mean that it's not like a good hat if you make it top bottom up or that you shouldn't.

Um I'm just kind of explaining my thoughts about like what the pros and cons, basically, there's always pros and cons. OK. So I think this is finally hot enough. So I'm just using steam. It's set at a high steam setting and I'm not actually touching my work.

I'm just kind of hovering it above and this heat kind of allows those fibers to relax a little bit and then I'll turn it like this. It kind of makes some of the squeakiness go away too. Like if you guys have this yarn is a little bit, a little bit squeaky. This is a very inexpensive acrylic yarn that I'm using here, but it still can look very nice. You know, I, I really love wool.

That is, I, you know, that's my favorite fiber to work with, but I do love acr working with acrylics as well. You just kind of, it just helps to know some extra little tricks about acrylics to make them behave. And there's some really good ones out there too, some really nice soft ones. And all right. So now you can see the top of the hat is just more, much more drap and flexible and it's not, you know, I, I always hate it when you make a hat and then it's just sort of looks too solid on your head, like it just looks like there's no, it looks, you know, like there's no, no drape and no softness to the fabric.

So that will really make a difference. And I could definitely steam this down here. But I actually have found that I like not blocking the ribbing as much. Like I might lightly block it just a little bit here so that it keeps that fold a little better. But it seems like it's a, I kind of like it when the ribbing is just a little bit stiff.

So I usually very lightly block that or don't or lately I've not been blocking that as much and then I will definitely block the top because it just needs a little bit of help with that shaping and the drape at the top. All right, let's see. Is there a crochet equivalent for swing knitting? So enamored of the works I've seen made with that method. I don't even know what that is but Cindy, you know what I'm gonna be Googling later.

I do not know what swing knitting is, but now I wanna know because I'm a knitter as well. So this sounds exciting and I will have to if you pop that back into another live. Um If you ask me that again, maybe I will have an answer for you because I'm gonna do a little homework. All right. Thank you guys so much for being here.

I really appreciate it. I hope you guys are having fun, getting ready for the holidays. Um, and that you make some really fun granny striped hats and get to use up those scraps and just kind of enjoy the process. Thank you guys so much for being here. I really appreciate it.

Bye.