Hexi Daydream Handbag

Hello, everybody and welcome to our live crochet event. My name is Brenda KB Anderson and today I'm going to share with you the process of creating this really cute handbag. I call this the hexi daydream handbag. Um And uh it, it's a really fun crochet project to work on. And plus when you're done, you can keep your crochet projects in it. Um So this project is, you know, it's fairly quick to crochet up. It does have a completely lined interior here. Let me take, I've just got a shawl in here just to kinda fluff it out a little bit on the bottom. Um But you can see on the inside here we've got uh a fully lined interior. Um But if that, if don't let that scare you because I have a process, it's kind of an unusual process to share with you that makes it so much easier to get a really great fit and it just stays where you put it and it's a much better experience than just trying to kind of pattern or drape your own lining for the inside of this kind of trapezoidal shaped bag. So, um so don't worry about that part. It's gonna be fun. Ok? So um let's talk a little bit about, oh, first of, first of all, I want to mention this is a live event, of course. So if you guys want to say hi or tell me where you're crocheting from, if you have any questions about what I'm doing. If anything isn't clear, please let me know in the comments and I will get back to you during this live event to try and sort all that out. Um Also, if you just, you know, if you just wanna say hi, you just wanna pop in, let me know that you're there. That's great too. I love it when you guys are active in the chat. Another thing that I really like to actually is when people have suggestions about the things they would like to learn next. I do a lot of these live events. I love designing things. Um And it's fun for me to get direction from other people and kind of put my own spin on it. So if you guys have any ideas or if you've been, you know, excited about a certain technique that you want to learn, I can incorporate that into a project, you know, just let me know. OK, so this project is made with a chunky weight yarn. So that's this uh craft yarn Council number five size yarn. So that's a little thicker than our usual like worsted weight yarn. That we normally use for a, I mean, you can use worsted weight for really anything. But it's kind of, I know, I always like to talk about, you know, how things compared to the worsted weight yarn because I know in the United States that is one of the most popular weights that, um, crocheters like to use a lot. So, um this is a little bit thicker than that. So it works up very quickly and it's just really fun to make these sorts of motifs with a chunky yarn. I'd never actually made motifs with a thicker than a worsted weight yarn before. So that was fun. Um OK, so you're gonna need six colors. One of those colors is gonna be your main color. So in this bag, I'm using this sort of grayish bluish color as my main color in the bag that I'm going to be working up to date a sample I have, I am using sort of this off white color as my main color and then all the other colors are contrast colors. So um one thing I wanna mention to you is if you're looking at this and thinking, oh, that looks like something I could use my scraps on. Well, yes, indeed. You could certainly use scraps on this bag. That would be a great way to do it. Um If you are, if you like the look of this bag and you don't, I really like trying to figure out where all of your motifs are going to go or figure out, you know, the color sequence for all your motifs I actually have in the pattern download, which is free to everyone, by the way, um that the pattern download can be found in the description or also in the comment section. Go ahead and download that. Um So in the pattern download, I do have like a list of every square or it's not square hexagon, every hexagon that I made and I walk you through, you know what order to change the colors in. It's all listed here. Let me actually, I'll just show you. So here's the download and there is a section in here where it's kind of already all figured out for you. Um Right down here, this little section, it's telling you you start with color one and do a round. Then you move to color two, move to color three, then you finish with the main color and you make two of those hexagons. So for Hexagon, number two, you start with color four. Next you do color five, then you go to color two and the last one is the main color and you make two of those. So this breaks it all down for you if you don't want to think about it, you know, you, you don't have to, you can just kind of follow along here. Um But I don't want you to feel like you have to do that you can use, you can work your way through those, these motifs in exactly the same order for every motif. I know that there are people who would really rather it be uh more uniform. And so, you know, you can certainly do it that way. You can make it completely random. Even the, the main color could be, you know, just a random color could just be like you're working your way through a giant bag of scraps and that's great too. Um So yeah, so, you know, I just wanted to make sure that you knew that that resource was in there. So that you don't have to think if you don't, if you don't want to and you want it to look like this, you don't have to try and figure out, you know how to change your colors and all that stuff. Um ok, so you're gonna need those six colors of yarn and um there's varying amounts of each the most you'll need of any one color is the main color. You'll need two skeins of the main color. Um All the other colors are one skein or just like a partial skein of, of those colors. Um The exact yarn I use the yardage the way everything is all in your pattern. Download in case you're curious about exactly what I used here. So you can find that there. You're also going to be needing a hook, of course, and I am using an I nine which is a 5.5 millimeter hook, but you will use whatever hook you need to in order to get the gauge that matches my gauge. Um And you don't have to make a separate gauge watch. Um If you guys have been watching my videos for a while now, you know how I always like to cheat a little bit with the gauge and I always try to give you like a little thing that you can do instead of making a gauge watch because I hate making gauge watches so much. I know I'm supposed to say you need to make a gauge watch. Isn't this fun? Let's all make gauge swatches. Um It is important to check your gauge on projects, this project. It isn't quite as important if you're ok with the bag being a little bigger or a little smaller or maybe you want it to be a little bigger or a little smaller. So just knowing what each Hexagon should measure when you're done with it, that's gonna help, you know, that you're, you know, what size your bag is going to be when you're finished. So, you know, definitely check after you've made one Hexagon, you can compare it to what I've got. Um And, and then you'll know if it's gonna be on target or if it's gonna be too, you know, bigger or smaller and that type of thing. Um, ok, so you're gonna need that hook. You're gonna need a yarn needle and this is a chunky weight yarn. So, try and find a yarn needle with a slightly larger eye. I forgot mine at home today. I'm using a regular yarn needle. So I'm gonna show you how you can use a regular yarn needle on a thicker weight yarn. So we'll get to that, um, and then you're going to need a pair of wooden bag handles or whatever kind of bag handles you want. So these, these are the ones that I used and I do have uh a link in your pattern. You know, if you want to see exactly what these are. But also, um, you can use a round circle, you could use a square shape or a rectangle shape. It just needs to be about the same width here as your Hexagon. So, you know, after you make one Hexagon, you can go shopping for bag handles and, you know, unless you just want to buy, you know, buy the same ones I had and then you'll know that they'll fit. Um, but if you want to buy something else or, you know, make something else, then you'll just know that the, the distance across your Hexagon needs to fit inside that bag handle. So that's how, you know, um, you will also be needing some quilters pins. So that is gonna be helping us when we're working on our lining and putting our pieces together and you're gonna need about a 32 inch by 36 inch piece of woven fabric and that's gonna be used for the lining. So I used like a heavier weight cotton, like a quilter's cotton and a nice quality quilter's cotton in here. You could definitely use a slightly thicker weight fabric. Um, you could use a canvas, you could use a heavyweight satin, you know, just, I would just look for something that's a woven so that it doesn't stretch. And, um, and that way, you know, it just makes things a little bit easier. Uh And today when I'm working on my sample, I'm actually using a twill. So this is what my fabric looks like. Um That's gonna be my wrong side of the fabric. That's my right side of the fabric, but it's just, uh, mostly cotton. I think this is a cotton polyester, uh, blend fabric. The other one is 100% cotton. All right. And then you're gonna need a sewing needle and thread. So that's for attaching your lining into your bag or really making your lining. Um, but you don't need to use a sewing machine if you're worried about that, we, this is all hand sewn. You can do it by machine, but I would not recommend it for those who aren't very comfortable with your sewing machine to, to do it that way. And I'll talk a little bit more about that later. All righty. So after you work through your gauge, which is, you're gonna work all the way up through an entire Hexagon. So rounds one through four, then you're gonna go ahead and check your gauge. It should be six inches in diameter from side to side of your Hexagon. Meaning you would be measuring from one side to the other. This would be six inches, not from point to point, that's a little bit longer of, uh, you know, diameter across. So from one side to the other should be about six inches. Um Let's see. Ok, I think we can just go ahead and get started. So I'm gonna be just working up all of the rounds on the Hexagon. So you guys can see how they're put together and we, I'm gonna move this over here. Get it out of the way. All right. So we're gonna start at the center of our Hexagon and we're gonna start with a chain of four. So we're gonna place that slipknot on our hook and then we're gonna go ahead and chain 4123 and four. Now we're gonna work 11 double crochets into the fourth chain from the hook. So that was the first chain that we made and we're gonna place 11 double crochets this chain like these three chains right here. That is gonna count as our first double crochet of the round. So we're gonna end up with a total of 12 double crochet even though one of it, one of them is secretly a turning chain or beginning chain. All right. So to work a double crochet, we're gonna yarn over, we're gonna insert into that fourth chain from the hook and we're gonna yarn over and pull up loop. We're gonna yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over and pull through two loops. And that's our first real double crochet there. So we've got this chain three that's counting as a double crochet. And here is our next double crochet. Now we're gonna do 10 more. So yarn over, insert you over, pull up loop, you're an over, pull through two, yarn over, pull through two. Here we go. And I'm gonna start counting including that turning or the beginning chain. So 1234, five, six, seven, eight, nine, 10 E 11 and Wealth. And then we're gonna go ahead and make a slip stitch to the top of that chain, that beginning chain that we made. And that's gonna join um our round and we're gonna have this little circle and then we're just gonna go ahead and cut our yarn and fasten off like that. All right. So now we're gonna start round number two. So you can switch to your next color, whichever color that is. I'm gonna switch to yellow here and we're gonna start with a slip knot on our hook and we're going to begin by just pulling up a loop in the top of that beginning chain. So we can actually count the slip stitch as the top of that stitch. So we'll just pull up our loop right there, insert yarn over, pull through and pull through the loop on our hook to kind of anchor our yarn. And then we're gonna go ahead and chain 3123 that is gonna count as kind of the beginning of what we're making is a two double crochet cluster. And then that combined with this is going to look like a three double crochet cluster. So that didn't make sense. That is OK. We've got three chains here and now we're gonna do a two double crochet cluster into the same space where we pulled up that loop. So we're gonna yarn over, insert, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two and stop. Then we're going to do that again. You aren't over, insert in the same spot. You're an over, pull up loop, you are over, pull through two and then we're gonna yarn over and pull through all three loops on our hook. OK. So that kind of looks like three double crochets join together into one and we're gonna chain one and we're gonna do the same thing in the next stitch. So yarn over, insert in the next stitch, you aren't over, pull up a loop, you aren't over, pull through two and stop. You're an over insert, you're an over, pull up a loop. You're an over pull through two and stop. Now we're gonna do that one more time. You're an over insert, you're an over, pull up a loop, you're an over pull through two. So now we have four loops on our hook. We're gonna yarn over and pull through all four loops on our hook. So this is a three double crochet cluster here. Then we're gonna chain one. Now we're gonna continue working around here. So every stitch is gonna get a three double crochet cluster and in between the three double crochet clusters, we're gonna be making that little chain. So we already did our chain one. And now we're gonna do a three double crochet cluster into the next stitch two and three yarn over and pull through four chain one. And then we'll repeat that again in the next stitch. So here's our next three double crochet cluster. And by the way, all of these unusual stitches like the three double crochet cluster. And later, we're gonna do some puff stitches. All the directions for that are can be found in your, in your download as well. All right, we're just continuing around making those three double crochet clusters in each stitch with a chain in between. And you might have noticed I am crocheting over my yarn tail here. There are quite a few ends to weave in on this project because we are switching colors every round. So I like to weave I I like to kind of weave in my yarn tails as I go. Meaning I just sort of crochet over them when it's handy. If that seems too awkward. You can, you know, you don't, you don't need to do that. You can go ahead and just weave them in later when, when they're done. All right. Just a couple more. Three, double crochet clusters. Two, a three chain, one, one, two, sorry, pull through all four chain one. Here we go. And I think I have two more left, but I'm gonna count them up in just a minute just to make sure I got the right amount. It's better to count now than to get her almost all the way around the next round and then realize you didn't have enough or you had too many. All right. So let's count them up here. 123456789, 1011 12. That's how many you should have. We're gonna finish with that chain one and then we're gonna slip stitch into the top of our two double crochet cluster right there and then we'll just cut our yarn and fast enough like that. All right. So let's do the next round. The next round is some puff stitches, which is really fun. I love doing puff stitches. They have so much dimension. They're just adorable. So we're gonna start the same way again with a slipknot on our hook. And I like to start in the that chain one space before the join because it's a little, you know, it's easy to find. Um But really, you could start in any chain one space here. It does not matter in the oh, in the download, I should tell you and the download includes here. We are Stitch diagram. So if you guys have watched other of my tutorials, you know, that I really, really, really love stitch diagrams. It just helps, helps me teach, it helps me keep track of where I am. If I'm learning a new stitch pattern or if I'm trying to design with a new stitch pattern, I just, I'm always so like happy and grateful when there are stitch diagrams. So I like to include them for you guys whenever I can. So we have already worked through round one, which is started with those four chains and then we worked all of those double crochets into that first chain that we made. And then we joined a new piece of yarn here. We made three chains and we did a two double crochet cluster chain, 13, double crochet cluster chain one. And we repeated that all the way around ending with that chain one. And then we slip stitched over here into the top of our two double crochet cluster. Now we're gonna make a slip stitch to that last chain one space that we did of the last round. So that's right here. So we're just gonna insert our hook, yarn over, grab that yarn, pull through, pull through the loop on our hook to anchor it and then we're gonna chain to and I'll move that over here maybe. So you can see what I'm doing. Um We're gonna chain two and then we're going to make a puff stitch. Chain one, puff stitch all into that same chain. One space. All right. So we're gonna chain 21 and two and now we're gonna do a puff stitch. So we're gonna yarn over, insert, yarn over, pull up a loop. You're an over insert, you're an over, pull up a loop, you're an over insert, you're an over, pull up a loop, you're an over and then we're gonna pull through all seven loops on our hook and then we're gonna chain one and now we're gonna do that Puff stitch again into that same space. So you're over insert, you're an over, pull up a loop, you're an over insert, you're an over, pull up loop, you're an over insert, you're an over, pull up loop, you're an over pull through seven loops and then we chain one. So every time we are, we are um making two puff stitches into each chain. One space around. We are not working into any of these cluster stitches. We're just working in the spaces between them. And every time we make a puff stitch, we make a chain, then we make another puff stitch into that same chain one space, then we chain one and then we're gonna move to the next chain one space. OK. So every chain, one space is gonna get two puff stitches separated by a chain. And then there's going to be a chain here between, you know those pairs of puff stitches. All right. So two more puff stitches here. So one pull through all seven chain one. Now we're gonna do a 2nd 1123, all through all those loops. Chain one. All right. And we're gonna move on to the next chain. One space. We're just gonna repeat this all the way around. There is our puff stitch chain one another puff stitch chain one moving on. Puff stitch, change one and another puff stitch. They had a chain one. So if you've never done puff stitches before, one thing that really helps is making those loops a little extra long when you're pulling them up every time. Because if you don't, your hook will get stuck because this is a lot of loops to slide your hook through here and to be able to get it through there. It really helps if you elongate those loops as you make them. So that, you know, that happens when you, you yarn over here, I'm gonna hang on to that, go in there, grab that yarn and pull up my loop and instead of just pulling it up to here, I'm gonna pull it up higher. Like this. So, two, once you get the first one, it ha you know, then you can pull up to that previous loop length and it kind of helps give you a place to stop. And this is one of those things that just improves with some practice. But luckily on this bag you have lots of practice because there's lots of puff stitches. Oh, I wanna say hi to Shatika Woods. Hi. I'm glad that you're here. And Marlena is wondering, can you use two strands of worsted weight instead of chunky? I'm from Tennessee. Hello, Marlena. Um, yes, you can. I would just do a gauge swatch just to make sure you may end up going down one hook size or it might just be perfect. Yes. But you could definitely do that. That's a great way to use up. Um, where the weight you aren't too, like if you've got lots of scraps, you can put two of them together and, you know, you can, you can do two strands of the same color. You could even mix two colors together for parts of it would be kind of cool too. Um, and Gutsy Chick is saying Christmas ornaments for next time, please. Ok. Um, I will think about that. I did, um, last, I can't remember if it was summer. I think it might have been or maybe it was closer to, might have been close in the fall, maybe closer to Christmas. I did a cardinal Christmas ornament, a crochet cardinal one. So you might want to check that out in the meantime, and I did do some Christmas gnomes as well, which could easily be made into ornaments. They're just like little gnomes that kind of sit in your bookcase and look adorable. Um But that would be kind of fun too. And II, I did a crocheted um and stiffened snowflake as well. That could definitely be used for an ornament, but I love making ornaments. So that, that is a great suggestion. Thank you for that. I will think about that. Um And Debbie, let's see, Debbie is saying if you use worsted weight yarn instead of the bulky, would the bag be small enough for a child? I think so. Um So what you can do is if you make up your worsted weight Hexagon and definitely, you know, go down some hook sizes, make sure that, that Hexagon, you want your fabric to be fairly stiff. I don't know if you can tell like if I I'm going to take my hook out of here for a second, but see if I turn this, it's quite stiff, it's not floppy at all. You want your bag to have more structure and oop. And so it's, you know, whatever hook size you need to in order to get your, your swatch to look like that to, to be nice and stiff. Um So you can go for that and then you can measure your swatch, your worsted weight swatch, which is a whole Hexagon and you can kind of do a percentage. So if this is supposed to be six inches across and your Hexagon measured four inches across, then you would know that your bag would be about two thirds of the size of my bag because, ok, I'm talking about math here because basically, um four is to six as you know, whatever the, the width dimension or whatever. Um you, I have the dimensions written and oh, actually let's just check this out here. Got the dimensions written in the download. Let's see. Ok, so let's just say it's 17 inches wide if you work uh work it up and you have a six inch swatch. So you can make a little ratio where you have um I didn't bring my marker but um where you have the four on top. So you've got four here, six here. So that means four inches for your Hexagon, six inches for your Hexagon. And then over here in the ratio you can put 17 and then you can do four times 17 divided by six equals whatever this is this number and that number is gonna tell you how wide your bag is gonna be. So that way at least you'll have sort of a guess as to to how wide it, how wide it will be. All right, so let's get back to this. Um, oh, it looks like I'm, I'm still a little behind here. Uh, Carol says, good morning from Ontario. Good morning, Carol and Karen saying good morning from Virginia. And you're welcome. I'm so glad you're here. And Renee says, howdy from Texas. Thank you for doing the knotted baby hat. Oh, Renee, I think you're the person who asked for that a long time ago. Correct me if I'm wrong, but now I'm, that's jogging my memory. Um, I bet it was you. I'm glad that you liked it. OK? So now we're gonna do um we're continuing with the same thing. So we're making those puff stitches. 123, there is our first puff stitch and then a chain one and then we're gonna do our second puff stitch into that same chain one space. All right. We're just finishing up here with a few more puff stitches. Remember to pull those up nice and long. You'll just kind of get a feel for that as you, as you practice them too. Here we go and one last puff stitch and yes, Debbie, she um she's saying she's gonna have to listen to all that for it to sink in. Yes, I know that was, I went through that really quickly and I should have brought my, I like to bring a white erase board with the markers in case there are questions like that. Sorry, I'm just kind of pointing to the air here. Um But yes, you, you should be able to, you know, watch that a few times and it, it'll make more sense. All right. So we did our last chain one and now we're going to make a slip stitch into the top of our first puff stitch, which is right there. And then we're gonna cut that and fast enough. All right. So now we've worked through round three, we're going to be working on round four. This is the final round of the motif and I'm gonna be doing that in this dark gray just for the sample. Um And then we're gonna be switching to um more motifs that I already made ahead of time that have that lighter color. I hope I'm not confusing you, but the, I'm just using whatever, you know, was designated as the main color for round number four. It's the same on all of my hexagons. OK. So I'm going to start again with that slip knot on my hook and here is my very last um chain space between the last puff stitch and where we joined. So I'm gonna go ahead and just insert my hook in between those puffs and I'm gonna grab that yarn, pull it up and pull it through the loop on the hook to anchor it. And now I'm going to chain 312 and three. Now, here I'll pull the chart in here and this is where we're at. So we've already worked round three. We're starting here on round four, we joined our yarn change three. And now we're gonna do two more double crochets in that same chain. One space, a chain one and then three, double crochets all into that chain space, that same chain space. All right. So we've got our three chains. Now we're gonna do two, double crochets, one and two and then we're gonna chain one and then we're gonna do three more double crochets into the same chain. One space, one, two and three. OK. So now you can see we worked into this chain one space, nothing gets worked into the next chain. One space, but the following chain one space gets three double crochets. OK? So we're gonna do that. We're going to skip the next chain one space and then we're gonna work into the following chain one space here. So we're making three double crochets one, two and three just like that. Then we're gonna skip the next chain on space and we're gonna repeat this section except for we're not starting with the beginning chain. We're just making that a double crochet um into this section here. So that'll be three, double crochets one, two, three. And then we're gonna chain one and then we're gonna work three more double crochets into that same chain. One space one, two, three. OK? So, so far we've got those two groups of three double crochets because this first chain three really counts as a double crochet there. So we've got two groups, one group, two groups and we're gonna keep, you know, going in that pattern. So we're gonna skip the next chain one space and in the following chain, one space, we're gonna work three, double crochets. So one, two and three, then we're gonna skip the next chain one space and we're gonna do two groups of those three double crochets um separated by a chain one. So 123 and then we're gonna chain one and then we're gonna do three more. One, two, three. OK. So every time, you know, every time we're working into one of those chain one spaces, we're either gonna put three double crochets or we're gonna do three double crochets, chain 13, double crochets. So it's important to note that we are not doing chain ones between like this group of three double crochets and this group or between this group and this group. The only time we're doing those chain ones is right in the middle when we're separating two groups of double crochets like that. So we're skipping that chain one space and we're gonna work three double crochets into the next chain. One space, there's our three double crochets, skip this next chain one space. And then we're gonna do two sets of double crochets. So 12, three, there's one set, chain one and here's the second set. One, do three. All right, skip in the next chain one. And then we're gonna do three double crochets here, one to and three skipping this chain on space. And now we're gonna do two groups of those three double crochets. So here's the first group of three J one and the second group of 31, two, three, skipping that chain one space making three double crochets into the next chain. One space moving on, there's a chain, one space moving on to the second chain on space. So we're skipping that one moving over here and we're gonna do one of those corners where we've got three double crochets chain 13, double crochets. So there's our three double crochets, chain one and three double crochets. Oh Renee says, yep, it was me and I love making those knotted baby heads. They're just so darn cute. Oh, I'm so glad you saw that because sometimes when people suggest things, you know, that particular project took me a while because I had all these other projects that I um kind of already had scheduled, ready to go before I could get that one out to you. And I was like, oh, I hope they check back and they see that I, that I designed this for them because, you know, it had been at least a couple of months, maybe more than that. So I'm glad that you came back and checked for it. Sometimes it takes me a little while. But I, I usually, you know, when people have requests, I think I've done almost all of the requests that I've had so far. Um, let's see. Oh, Sonica 377 is saying so pretty. I can t, oh, they, I think they want can t-shirt yarn be used. I live in very hot weather. T-shirt yarn will be better for me. Ok. Um, yeah, you can use T t-shirt yarn. That would work great. Yeah, just do up a swatch and make sure that it's turning out about the same size or size that you like it to be. That should be fine. That'll be really cute actually. And hello from Hot Fort Lauderdale, Florida. Hello. I'm hoping you're in the air conditioning or maybe by the pool. All right. So we've got, we're ending with those three double crochets and then we are gonna make a slip stitch into the top of that beginning chain three right there. So we just do a little slip stitch and then we're gonna fasten off and we're gonna leave ourselves kind of a long yarn tail, you know, you know, you know, how much, how much you can handle. I usually try to leave at least a half a yard or so. Um, you might not need quite that much, but it is nice to have these long yarn tails for sewing all of our hexagons together later you can, instead of sewing them together, you can crochet them together. The reason that I like to sew them together instead of crocheting them together is just because it gives it a little bit extra structure when you're doing that whip stitch seam instead of, I find that the crochet seams usually are a little bit stretchier. Um, but it's really so minute if you're like, hm, I'm never gonna make that. If I have to sew all those pieces together. Brenda, then, yes, absolutely. You can just lay your hexagons next to each other and do, like a zig zag join or you can do slip stitching, you know, through those back loops that could be touching each other. Um There's lots of different ways to do it. And if you need some help learning about those, um, the creative crochet corner website has some different ideas for joining seams um using either sewing or crocheting. Um Yeah. So you can go ahead and check that out. All right. So that completes our hexagon except for the weaving in of the tail. So I do wanna just show you a couple little things. Um So this one we crocheted over for quite a while. So I'm just gonna cut that off. Normally. I like to weave things in even though I crochet over my tails, but there's so many unsweet in. Plus this is gonna be lined on the back side. So I'm not as worried about it. So, as long as you crochet over it for quite a ways you can clip them off if you want to. Um, otherwise weave them in. So this yarn tail was from the very beginning. And if you're finding that you have a little hole, I'm trying to put this over the white. So you guys can see there's that little hole in there and if that bugs you, um, you can go ahead and tighten that up. So here's my little ti tiny yarn needle that I brought, I meant to bring a much larger one, but I'm gonna make this work. It's gonna be fine. Um What I do when I have too small of a yarn needle is I twist my yarn to make it tighter and then I fold it like this. So I have a little folded edge and I just kind of pinch that and slide it through as best as I can. Sometimes you gotta kind of help it a little bit, but there we go. Um So that normally works for me. And in order to kind of close this little hole up, you can just weave your yarn tail in through all of those loops right there. And when you get all the way around the circle, it's OK. If you miss one or two, by the way, it's not really a big deal. You just kinda do your best try to catch as many of them as you can. And once you've made it all the way around and maybe just a couple of extra loops again, then you can go ahead and just pull on that and then you will need to weave that in because that if you don't weave it in, it's gonna open up, it's gonna slide open um eventually. So just pick a couple of directions to weave in and go ahead and cut that off. All right. So then you can go ahead and weave in all your ends. Um If you're finding it awkward to even ends, it can be, you know, like it's sort of a learning a learning situation when you have things like puff stitches like this. Usually I just kind of go back and forth in that puff stitch and I don't strand across. But if you wanted to go from here and you wanted to weave in some, some over here, instead of going across here, I normally go up up to the top and then I slide my needle through where all these stitches are. I just make sure that my needle isn't showing on that side and you can bring them across to the next little batch and kind of weave them in there if there's just too much going on here because there are two ends that are close to each other. So maybe you want to split that up a little bit. All right. So you can go ahead and weave in all your ends and then you are going to lay out your piece. So I made this lovely little diagram. Actually, it's just a photo with some numbers on it. Um And I want to explain to you what this is about. So here's all my pieces as I have them laid out, the numbers refer to remember back when I told you that all the changing colors were figured out for you. So that was right here. If you are going through, following my directions, you don't have to. But if you are and you work through in the same color order, just take a little piece of masking tape or a little piece of paper and AAA safety pin or something like that and then pin a number one on that so that you'll know that's number one, OK? And then just basically, you just wanna number your hexagons with the numbers that are corresponding to them right here. OK? So you'll have hexagons number one through eight. And most of those on all of them have two except for number eight, there's only one of those because as you can see here, these two are the same. So one and one, those are made the same way and this is just a layout showing you where all of those pieces go. So of course, if you work yours up and you're like, oh, I don't really like how that looks. You can certainly move them around and that's the other great thing about, you know, having your motifs and not joining as you go. I know a lot of people really love joining as you go. And I used to do things that way, but then I felt like I lost the, I really like being able to shuffle things around and make them look a little bit, you know, more the way I want them to before I actually attach them. And sometimes I don't really know until I have all my pieces. So I like to have separate motifs usually and sew them together. Um So you're just going to use this shape, you know, for how all the Hexagons fit together if you and you can use the numbering system, but if you don't like anything, you can certainly switch them around, you know, just, you know, you can absolutely do that. OK. So once you get all your pieces laid out, you're going to sew them together and I just use a whip stitch like I mentioned earlier. Um And because you're gonna be leaving that last, that main color as a long strand then you have here, I'll just grab this one. You have all these little tails kind of already anchored and ready to go. So I'm gonna thread my tiny little yard, needle my chunky weight yarn and, and you'll find because where we're fastening off is not on the corner. Sometimes when you put your pieces next to each other, you're gonna have to kind of, you know, go in one direction and then go back across however you want to do it. But um I'm just using a whip stitch. Oops, let me pull that out of the way there. So that just means I'm going underneath both loops of each edge and then just pulling it through and just pay attention to where those chain, one spaces are at the corner. Those should be matching up with each other. So you have nice crisp corners and now since we stitch that way and we wanna stitch the rest of this, we can just turn around and go back. It's OK that we're doing, you know, three stitches. Again, you can also just kind of send your needle through the thickness of your, of your piece there as well if you prefer. But yeah, this is all that's all there is to it just doing this whip stitch very simple. So you'll just sew all of your pieces together. Um A so I should say once you lay it all out, I forgot to mention once you lay it all out in this, you know, in, in this shape, make just make sure just double check and make sure it's really making this shape and then take a photo of it because you might not be able to get them all stitched together, you know, in that one sitting or however, you know, however you're doing it that way, you're gonna have a record of what it is supposed to look like in the colors that you picked and it'll just be easier to kind of lay it all out again, if you have a picture of it in your phone or you know, somewhere so that you can um make reference to it. It just makes it that much easier. OK, so all of your pieces together and then after that, you're going to cut out your lining fabric. So let me pull this over here. This is my piece that I've already stitched together. So we've got very top here, here we go. We've got the two sides here. Alternate sideways and then you guys can see. So this is gonna be oriented sideways from, from um how it is in the, in the photo there. And just so, you know, these little flaps that stick out, these are going to be the sides of the bag just to, aren't you? I'm going to show you this right here. So this motif right there that, that motif is what sticks out on each side of your, of your piece when you sew it all together. OK. So in order to cut out the lining, you will lay first, you will lay your lining on your table with the wrong side of your lining facing upward. OK. So whatever you wanna see when you look inside your bag that needs to be touching the table. So for example, this was my lining and I wanted the dark side to be on the inside of the bag if that's what I wanted to see when I opened up my bag, then I would put the dark side of my lining fabric down on the table. This is not, this is, of course, is not big enough for my whole piece. You would have a much larger piece, but I just felt like it was too unwieldy to be um dealing with a giant piece of fabric. And I'm just kind of showing you how to get this cut out. So you're gonna lay your crochet onto the wrong side of your fabric. So this is the wrong side of your fabric. This is the side that you're never gonna see once the lining is put in. This is the side here. Let me pick this up. This is the side that you're going to see on the inside of the bag. OK. So that's touching the table laying down there, then you can go ahead and trace around it or you can just cut if you're careful. Um I just cut my note, just watch for any yarn tails, make sure that your yarn tails are laying, you know where you can see them and then you can go ahead and cut your piece out. I should also mention too when you lay out your fabric, you wanna lay your fabric out so that the grain line is going in this direction or this direction. And if you don't know what grain line is, that's OK. It just means whatever is parallel to the edge of your fabric. Like when you get your fabric cut, there's sort of a finished edge of your fabric, not the cut scissor edge that the person cut it for you. But the other edge, that edge needs to be running either this way or it could be running this way on your bag. You just don't want to add a diagonal because that's gonna cause um weirdness that's gonna cause like strange drape and bias cut woven. It's just, it's gonna be kind of, it's gonna be unwieldy. Ok. So you can go ahead and just cut around your piece. You'll just cut all the way around and you're just gonna leave a little tiny space like it's probably somewhere around a quarter of an inch or so, could even be a little less around your piece. So you're gonna cut it like this and you're gonna cut that out all the way around your entire bag. Ok. And I would recommend, especially if you, like, if you have some weights that you can put here, if you're, if you're a sewer and you happen to have pattern weights or if you have cans of soup, you could put them here. Um, just to hold that down. And so that way when you're kind of picking it up a little bit and cutting, it's not going to be shifting around on you. Um, but you're just gonna go ahead and cut all the way around the entire thing like that. And then when you're after you've cut it all out, just imagine, I cut the whole thing. Then you take your entire, your, your stack, your two layers here and then you're gonna flip it over like this and then you are gonna go ahead and tuck underneath the fabric. So that way you've got a little bit of your, a little bit of your crochet showing past the fabric and there are pictures in the download of this. So you'll know just a little bit of crochet fabric sticking out past the folded line. So you want to fold this so that you don't have any raw edges. And when you do that, you're gonna have to go ahead and clip in certain places, just clip in about a quarter of an inch, you can clip a little bit more if you need to. And that's gonna allow you to fold that nicely all the way up to that very clipped, that little clipped corner there. And then you're just gonna add your pins like this to keep it all in place. So you're going to be pinning that folded edge all the way around your whole piece. All right. So, and you may have noticed I've actually secretly lined this already for the most part. So this is what it'll look like. Oh, and I forgot to mention you need to cut out the lining from two of the two of the Hexagons. So if you take a look at this picture here. There's a hexagon where the backside of the Hexagon is showing here and the backside of the Hexagon is showing here. You can see, I, after I trimmed all the way around, I went back in and I cut that little Hexagon free. OK. So there's no lining on this Hexagon or this Hexagon. Those are the Hexagons that's going to hold your, um, your bag handles. So you can see when we look in here, this Hexagon used to be sticking out here and it got pulled through the bag handle and stitched to itself here. And that's why we have to get rid of the lining because we're sewing the yarn to the yarn from this side. Ok. So we just had to kind of cut that out of the way. I hope this is making sense. Um, let's see. Oh my God. I missed some things. Let me go back in here and check. Um, let's see. Someone is saying that they love the color combination. Thank you. And Massa says, good morning from San Francisco. Debbie says hi from Pine Grove Mills, uh, Pennsylvania. And if I were to do a motif in the same color, since you usually start the next row in the chain before the end of the previous row, would I start the next row in the first chain? Ok. So if you want to do it the same color throughout is what I think you're saying you can actually, you don't have to start in the same chain space as I have in my chart or in my directions, you can start in a different chain space. So you could just sort of slip stitch over to the next chain space if you want the only thing to think about. Um And this is probably not even really gonna show is that if you take a look at this chart, this may be a little bit more clear, but the areas where there's two groups of double crochets. So right here, right here, here, here, here, those point in between those two, the the pairs of puff stitches. So if you move over by one, if you do a slip stitch over to this chain, it's gonna look just ever so slightly different because those puff stitches aren't, you're gonna be making that corner space in between those puff stitches, but there's nothing wrong with that. It's still gonna look good. Um If you didn't, if you wanted to look just like this though, you could continue to slip stitch over to the next one and just move this corner over to here if that makes sense. So you would do your join slip stitch over here to the next chain one space and then, you know, start with this section right here. I hope that's helpful. Um OK. And oh, somebody's asking what yarn, I am using the information about the yarn is found in your download. Um, it is a chunky weight acrylic yarn. Um, and it's fair. It's a fairly sturdy yarn. Um, let's see. Let's see. Oh, and we've already got an answer about the, about the yarn. Oh, thank you. Ok. Hi to Linda. Hello. And good morning to, uh, Los Angeles. Linda. Hello. Ok. Um, so let's see. Back to this. I have already placed my lining in here and I started stitching it. I've stitched it almost all the way around and I just wanted to show you what this looks like here. I'll move this around here. So right here, I've got my little sewing needle and I have some green thread which I'm not sure if you can see. But, um, there's, you should have a matching thread to either your lining or your, your main color. Um, I would go for the lining. It's probably not really gonna show in your main color because you're not trying to take stitches all the way through. So we're just doing a little tiny whip stitch along the edge and there is a picture, a close up picture of this in your pattern. Download if you need to see that a little better, but you're just taking a very small stitch into the yarn and then out through, near the edge of that fold. So you just wanna make sure that stays folded as you go. And my stitches are about a quarter of an inch apart. I would say, um, you could put them a little closer together if you want, but I wouldn't go further apart than a quarter of an inch. So you're just gonna be doing these little whip stitches along that folded edge there. So let me just untuck this part so you can see what's going on in here. So there, we just have a little folded edge. I had a little excess there, so I just folded it right along that edge of the Hexagon. You can still kind of see where you've whip stitched your pieces together. And that is where this folded edge should be matching up. And you're just doing these little whip stitches here. The reason that I really, I know this takes a while to do all this hand sewing. But the reason that I love making linings this way is because you can line a very strangely shaped bag as long as you have the pieces laid out flat. So this, this technique works for all kinds of different things that you would make. Um, if you can have it be flat before you seam it together, you can even do it in sections. Um If you've got like, you know, sides and a bottom, you could sew them on separately. This is just kind of like a foolproof way to do it because you don't have to worry about like measuring your, measuring your pieces or draping something on the inside of your bag awkwardly. Um It's just a really nice way to make sure all your pieces are lined and then when you put it all together, everything has already been tacked into place and it doesn't sort of move around. Sometimes when you line crochet fabric with a woven, we do this, you know, because we want to have that extra structure, but sometimes when you do that, it can create some problems. Um, you know, the the lining might pull away from the crocheted fabric because they're not very similar. They don't hang in a similar way. So this is a really nice way of tacking them together, making sure that that lining is gonna stay put where you, where you placed it. All right, we are almost all the way around here. A couple more stitches here and then I'm just gonna tie it off and then I will show you how this bag gets assembled. So I'm not gonna be sewing the whole bag together, but I am going to pin it together. Um I'll probably use Coulter's pins or maybe some stitch markers to put it together, you know, whatever you have handy will work. And when you are ready to do this part, of course, you can watch this video, but I do have this diagram in your download here right here. And this is telling you exactly what areas get stitched to what areas. So for example, this letter E gets stitched to this letter E. So you might be wondering why is that starting with E, I'm starting with A's here because that's the first part. I sew together, sew those together and then I sew along B and B, these two get seen together and I'm going to show you that now, but I just wanted to point out that it is labeled in the way like in the order that you should sew it together. So sew A to A then, so B to B, then you can sew C to C and D to D and then you sew E to E and then you're gonna do basically the same thing mirrored on this side of the bag as well with these letters. Um So that way in case that it is, you know, sometimes it's kind of hard to tell exactly what goes where and I just wanted to make it very clear for you since this is such a strangely shaped piece. All right. So remember these little wingy things, those are the sides of the bag. So we're going to be folding them up like this. And the tip of that little wingy part that sticks out is going to be attached to this right here. OK. So we're gonna sew those together and then the same thing is gonna happen on this side. We're gonna bring that in like this and we're gonna attach this to the corner and this little corner goes into there just like that and then we're gonna sew these two pieces together as well. Ok. So we'll just take a minute so you can see what's going on here. That's what the shape is. Ok? For that corner, we're gonna do the same thing for the other side. So we start out with the little piece that kind of sticks out the little wing. I like to call it and then we're going to place they kind of, you know, just fit like little puzzle pieces together. Oh, it looks like we have a question. Thank you for sharing this bag with us. Can you please let us know if the handle is just to carry with your hand or is there enough room to carry it on your wrist? Um, I think that depends on the size of your body. I have fairly small hands, um, and fairly small wrists. I can get it through very easily here. But if you have larger hands, it might be difficult. Um, but you can absolutely substitute these with a ring shaped handle if you want, um, or a square, you know, or the kind of handle that has like a little loop to put that, that little section through. All you need to do is feed this through something and then you can have a larger ring here. All right, let me get this side together over here. Yeah. And in this little corner here and so, you know, back to the thing where we were sewing our lining in, we left that little bit of yarn free here. We don't want to sew it all the way to the very edge. And the reason we left that free is so you can just stitch through just how you normally would. You, you're gonna ST, you know, do a whip stitch through those yarn loops and they should be free, you know, you should be able to put your, your yarn needle through there and through there and whip stitch it closed, you know, with the, with the outside showing. So you can see what you're doing. Um, but it's just like the whip stitch. I was showing you earlier when we stitched our pieces together. Ok? So now at this point after you get everything seemed together on the sides, then you can go ahead and just place those handles on like this and then you just match up the bottom of your Hexagon with the other side there. So, um, and this is a little bit of, um, what's the word when you're just trying? You just kind of have to kind of mush it around a little bit just to make it fit. Um, just kind of, um, just kind of pin those corners first and then make the rest of this kind of work out. Ok. So you're gonna be doing a whip stitch, you can't stitch through the handle, so you leave that part free and then you're just gonna do a whip stitch from this point below the handle around here. So you're sewing this layer to the layer directly behind it to the yarn layer, directly behind it like that. So you'll just add your two handles in and then you're done. And so I just wanted to show you one last thing before we go. Um Oh Renee is saying it looks like the material part of the bag is washable. But what about the handles? Should they be plastic instead of wood? If you're planning on putting this in the washing machine, I would definitely make them out of plastic or, or make them removable in some way. Not really sure if that would be easy to do though. Um, but, or yeah, I would say plastic, but normally for me, I hand wash stuff like this and I have hand washed wood before and I didn't have any problems. Now, I don't, I can't speak to all the wooden handles out there. There, there might be some that have issues, but for me, I have hand washed things that have wood, them like this and I just don't let it soak. I just kind of do a little hand wash in the sink or whatever. Um, and then let it dry and I put a fan on it to help it dry a little faster. So up to you. But if you're going to be washing it or you're worried about that then definitely switch to a plastic handle that would be better. Ok. So I just wanted to show you because you might be curious about how this lining really looks after you've stitched it together. So you will have these little sections here. Let me just pull this inside out. You will have these little sections where you have stitched, where you have seam your, um, crochet pieces together outside of that lining. Um, but to me this little tiny, narrow, little space, it's pretty dense because you've got all that whip stitching there and it's, you know, pretty dense anyway. So for me, it was a non issue. Um I, I much prefer to do my linings this way and have everything fit and it really gets, you know, it's very secure in here because it is stitched to your crochet, your lining isn't kind of shifting around on the inside there. So it's really great. Um But, you know, I just wanted to point this out in case you're concerned about, you know, these two pieces not meeting up right there, they don't meet up there just is a little space between. Um, but, you know, the main reason I wanted to line this was because I did not like the idea of stuff falling out through the holes between my stitches here. Um And that's not gonna happen because all the areas where the holes are has fabric, you know, firmly stitched behind it. So you don't need to worry about it. I just wanted to make sure that you would know what that looks like when you are finished. But yeah, it just sits in there really nicely and it's, it's a fun way to do it. All right. Let me just check in and make sure I didn't miss anything. No, I don't think I did. Um, ok. Thank you guys so much for being here. This is a fun project. I hope you guys give it a try. If any of you are interested in working on the Jasmine Stitch, I'm gonna be doing a little tutorial at 1130 central time um on how to work the Jasmine Stitch in the round. So check that out if you're interested. Thank you guys so much. Bye everybody.