Brenda K.B. Anderson

Knotted Baby Hat

Brenda K.B. Anderson
Duration:   52  mins

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Join Brenda K. B. Anderson on Friday, June 21st at 10:00 a.m. CT/11:00 a.m. ET to learn how to crochet this adorable, knotted hat for your littlest loved ones! Extended single crochet allows for stretch and creates a smooth fabric, and the cute rolled brim keeps the hat in shape and adds a nice finish to complement the knot. Click here to download the free pattern.

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Yeah, hi, everybody. Welcome. My name is Brenda KB Anderson and I'm very excited today to show you my newest project. The Knotted Baby Hats. It's gonna be a fun little project. It's very easy, approachable, beginner friendly. Um It's fun and it's a good project to work on in the summer time because it's small and doesn't make you very warm, it's portable. Um, and it's just a cute little project. I'm very excited that you guys are here. Um, I love doing these tutorials. It's really fun for me to come up with these designs and share them with you and I love it when you guys are active in the chat and you let me know like where you're crocheting from or if you just want to say hi or if you have suggestions for future events. This design actually was uh due to somebody's suggestion, they asked me if I could make just, you know, a basic roll, brim knotted baby hat. Um They had seen lots of knitted ones and they wanted a crochet version. So that was, um that was my goal. So that's where this, this whole idea came from for this. This project. Um So I do really love, you know, hearing from you guys, it makes me think outside of my normal, you know, design plans. I mean, I come up with lots of other things but I really like to hear what you guys like to make too. So, um ok, so I am uh I first I just want to start out talking a little bit about the materials. Um First of course, you're gonna need the pattern. So that's a free download. It's just the knotted baby hat and you can find the link in the description. Um Also in the chat, I think the link is there as well. Well, so you can download it now or you can download it later sometimes though it does help to be to have that with you so that you can kind of look at it as we're going through the live event and you know, in case you come up with any questions or have suggestions or anything about the pattern, because I'll be answering those while we are doing this live event. So definitely don't hold back if you have questions or comments or useful tips for other crocheters or things like that. Um You know, drop those in the, in the comments and I'll get to those during our event today. All right. So, um besides the pattern, you're gonna be needing some yarn and there are, there are eight sizes in this pattern. So it goes all the way from a preemie up through toddler sizing. Um, so that's a, you know, pretty wide range there. Um, it starts at about 12 inches in circumference to about 19 inches, um, in circumference. So, um, just to give you an idea about how big the end product is. So you will be needing anywhere from about 100 yards to 100 and 74 yards, just depending on what size you're making. And we are using a AAA number two yarn. So this is, um, a sport weight. So it's a little bit thinner than kind of the most prevalent yarn that we oftentimes see in the big box stores, um, that's worsted weight, which is the number four. of course, big box stores have all different types of yarn. I'm just kind of trying to like, um, make sure you guys are familiar with the thickness of the yarn that I'm talking about. Um, but this is a number two. So it's thinner and I chose this yarn because I wanted the hat to be a little thinner, you know, for a little baby's head. If you're putting it on a preemie or a newborn, I just wanted to, you know, to be something that they could wear as soon as they're born, it doesn't need to be, this wasn't meant to necessarily be a super warm, thick winter hat. Although if you're making it in the top size, it could certainly be a winter hat. It's definitely warm enough. Um, I just wanted to cut down on the bulk just a little bit because we're making such tiny little things. Um, so you'll need a, a hook size that matches your yarn and gives you the correct gauge. Although we'll talk a little bit more about that later because gauge isn't as important for this project as it is for lots of other projects. Um I am using ad which is a 3.25 millimeter hook um in order to get the gauge that's listed in the pattern. Um But you can use whatever hook that you need to in order to get, you know, your, your gauge swatch or the beginning of your hat to kind of match the measurements that I have listed in the pattern. So we'll talk a little bit more about that as we, as we go through and actually start crocheting. Um The other thing you're gonna need are some stitch markers. So you're gonna need locking stitch markers and you need to have at least one of them that contrasts from the other. So you need to be able to tell the difference between the, you know, between one stitch marker. So I'm gonna use this purple one as my, the, the contrasting marker and then these four will just be the other markers um that I'm using, it'd be better if they were all the same color, but I didn't bring those today but that's OK. This is the only one that's purple. So that's gonna work as my contrasting marker. But you need a total of five stitch markers for this project. And if you do not have stitch markers, you can use something else. Like you could use Bobby pins, safety pins, little pieces of yarn, just make sure one of them is different than the others so that you can always tell where the beginning of your round is and you will need some sort of yarn or some sort of yarn needle tapestry needle to weave in your ends. It could be a blunt yarn needle like this or it could be a slightly sharper needle. Um, if you, especially if you're working with a yarn that you wanna tuck those ends into the yarn strand. So they really don't come out if, if it's gonna be washed a lot, that's kind of helpful sometimes. Um, and then that's it. We really don't need a lot of supplies for this, mostly just the yarn and the hook. Um, yeah. So it'll be easy. You guys might even have some of this yarn in your stash. Um, I do want to say one thing real quick though if you are like, oh, I don't have any sport weight yarn. I really want to make that hat, but I'm only using my stash yarn. Now you can actually make it with another weight and you can kind of adjust the pattern as you go, we're gonna be creating this hat from the top down. So, if all you have is, you know, a thicker weighted yarn or thinner weighted yarn, you can do that and we'll just kind of, you'll just have to kind of monitor the size that your hat is turning out and then make some changes to the pattern as you go along. It's nothing, you don't have to do any math or anything like that. It's really pretty straightforward. Um, but you can use other weights of yarn if you want to. Ok. So, um, your pattern will give you all the instructions from the beginning to the end. It tells you, um, you know, there's a section of the pattern that tells you what the abbreviations are in the pattern. You know, different stitch definitions. We're gonna be using the extended single crochet, stitch mainly today, which is one of my favorite stitches of all time. I love that stitch so much where I'm gonna be going through and demonstrating all of this stuff. But I'm just letting you know all the information is in your pattern download. So that's a helpful tool to have um, as you're working on this project. All righty. So you can absolutely, you know, oops, ask me, ask me questions as I'm going to clarify anything if anything isn't clear. Um Yeah, just, just let me know how things, how things are going on your end of things. All right, So we're gonna start out with working the little tube part of this hat. So, um if you take a look at this hat, it's got this cute little top knot, but not that was the requested design feature of this project. Um It's super adorable. It's very easy to make basically all it is before it's tied up. It's just a very long tube like this and then you just tie into a knot, it gets much shorter by the time that you tie it. Um, but we're gonna start here on the top of the hat and we're going to work our way in a spiral down here and then we're gonna make a bunch of increases and then we're gonna work our way to the bottom and I'll show you how to make that rolled brim. All right. So to start, even though we're making a tube, we are going to be working a row just to start off with, we're gonna make a slipknot place that on our hook like that. And then we're gonna chain 11. So 123456789, Oh, I forgot to mention I am using a 100% acrylic yarn, but you could absolutely substitute with something else. You can definitely use a wool. I think that it will be a more successful hat if it has a little bit of bounce or stretch to it. Um, using a cotton yarn. If the cotton yarn happens to have a little bit of stretch to it. Like if it has um any elastic in it or anything like that, that would be, um, that would probably be a little more successful rather than a cotton hat that has no stretch. However, the, the extended single crochet stitch, which is the main Stith we're gonna be using, it does have inherently have some stretch to it. So you could do 100% cotton hat if you want to. But if you're gonna do that, once we get to the rolled brim, I would say maybe pick a different kind of edging instead of the rolled brim because um the way that the rolled brim is made, it might not have as much stretch in a cotton yarn as you would want it to have. We'll get to that later. OK? So I have chained 11 and now we're gonna work across the bottom of the chain. So if you see if you take a look here at the chain, there's all these little vs kind of stacked up in this direction, we're gonna roll that over. So the vs are touching the table and then you'll see that there's all these little horizontal dashes across the back. That's where we're gonna start working. We're gonna skip the first horizontal dash which is right there and then we're gonna work underneath the second one, which is right here. That's, we're gonna place our hook. So to do an extended single crochet, we're gonna slide our hook through that little bump. We're gonna yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through just one loop. Now, we have two loops on our hook and then we're gonna yarn over and pull through two. There's our first stitch of the row and we can go ahead and put a stitch marker in that. If you're very familiar with crochet, stitches, you don't have to put a stitch marker here if you think you'll recognize it later. Um But if you're a newer to crochet, I highly recommend the stitch marker. It'll just alleviate any confusion you might have about what, what the first stitch really was. Ok. Now we're gonna do extended single crochets all the way across. So we're gonna insert our hook here yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through one. You're an over pull through two. There's our second extended single crochet and now we're just going to continue that across. Insert, you're an over, pull up a loop, you're an over pull through one. You're an over pull through two. There is our fourth one and fifth six, seven. Mhm. Excuse me? Oh, somebody has a question about how much stretch do you need? It doesn't have to be super stretchy. Just a lot of cotton yarns don't have any stretch at all. Like a dishcloth, cotton. If you pull on that yarn strand, it doesn't stretch at all. But if you take a look at this, this is just a regular acrylic yarn. There's a little bit of stretch. You can see my, my fingers moving away from each other. That's really all you need. It doesn't need to be anything crazy. You don't need to have, you know, this does not need to be a specially stretchy yarn or anything like that. Just a basic acrylic or wool is, is perfectly fine. Um, well, we've got a, hello from Samuel. Uh 2014. Hello. Hi, thanks for saying hi. And Craft C by Gary is saying hi, hello and hi from Pensacola, Florida. Hi, Paula. I'm glad you guys are here and Jennifer is saying good morning and happy summer. And uh Sherri Dichio, I'm not sure I probably butcher your name and I'm so sorry. Hi, from Woods Town, New Jersey. Hello. Hi, Sherry. Um, yeah, we got a lot of hellos. A hello from Georgia as well. Thanks you guys. I'm glad you're out there. All right. So here I am on my very last stitch making my last extended single crochet. Let's see. Where is that stitch there it is. Ok. So now we've worked 10 extended single crochets and you may recall that we chained 11. The reason we only have 10 here is because that very last chain we made is right over here. And that's, that was just kind of being used for a turning chain. We're never gonna work into it, we want to start out with those 10 extended single crochets and now we're gonna make a tube out of this. And so the reason we started this way, instead of just joining, you know, chaining and joining into a loop, which you could certainly do, you can absolutely do that if you prefer. But the reason I like to do this way and do one little row and then join is because you end up with this nice edge here that looks, you know, just like the top of your work. It's got all those little vs, it has a little bit of stretch to it. Um I just, I, I just really like working into the bottom of my chain. That's how I, how we normally do it. OK? So we're gonna bring this around here. Let me do this. So you can see. So the, the markers over here that was marking the first stitch we made. Now we're gonna bring that marker over here right next to our crochet hook. So you just wanna make sure it's just kind of looping around into a little circle there and we can remove that um stitch marker for now. And we're just going to create an extended single crochet into that stitch that was marked. So we just insert our hook. You're an over, pull up a loop, you're an over, pull through one, you're an over, pull through two. We didn't need to do a joint or anything there. And you might be like, hey, Brenda, there's a gap. Did you see that? That's ok. We're gonna sew this up later. That's completely fine. So we don't need to worry about that little little gap. We have a question about what yarn type it is. This is 100% acrylic. Um But you could definitely use wool and like I said earlier, you could use a cotton, but I would either change the rolled hem at the end or if you're gonna use a cotton, maybe have a cotton with a little bit of a stretch or definitely like a cotton acrylic blend would work. Mm. Oh Roxy is watching from Nebraska and wants to see circular knitting machines uh trying to get used to her circular knitting machine. Ok. I actually I have a flat knitting machine. I don't have a circular one but I've been wanting one for a while. So if I do get one, maybe I can, maybe I can get into that and sh um and do some videos. All right. Do you ever use the bump instead of the top? Um Sassy Witchy. I'm not sure what you mean about the bump. If you're talking about the chain. Can you clarify what you meant by that? Um OK. And someone is asking if that's a double because I was taught through T two yarns over through two. If it's a half double, I was taught yarn over through. So what I'm doing is an extended single crochet. It's different than a double crochet and it's different than a half, double crochet. So I'll just show you those real quick. So extended single crochet, you're gonna insert your hook, we'll just work our next stitches as planned. Insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, then you yarn over and pull through just one and then you yarn over and pull through two. So a half, double crochet is a yarn over, insert yarn over, pull up. So we yarned over twice there. Then we yarn over and we pull through all three at all at once. That's a half aa double crochet is yarn over, insert yarn over, pull up, yarn over, pull through two yarn over, pull through two. So that in a double crochet, you're also yarning over twice. So when you do the extended single crochet, you are just, you're not going to do a yarn over at the beginning, you just insert your hook, then you yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through one and then you yarn over and pull through two. OK? I hope that helped clarify. OK. So now we're gonna just continue working those extended single crochets all the way around and we're just gonna work in a spiral for a while. I'm gonna place this back into that first extended single crochet I did of round two. This is, this is round two I'm working on here and we're just doing one extended, single crochet into each stitch around. OK. So just a reminder, the extended single crochet you insert yarn over, pull up a loop. You aren't over, pull through one. Y aren't over, pull through two. So when you look at that extended single crochet, it looks like two little vs sitting on top of each other, it almost looks like two knit stitches. I don't, you know, if you guys are knitters, you probably recognize that there's two little vs, just stacked right on on top of each other. And it's about the height of a ha half, double crochet. It's just a little shorter than a double crochet. Um But it makes a really flat stitch. Let me just show you what this looks like. It's really flat, it's not super bumpy and it has a lot of stretch to it, which is really, really nice. And I, I just think it makes a really great fabric, especially for, you know, sensitive baby skin and fitting on a baby's head. And um I mean, I use extended single crochet and many, many things like socks, hats, mittens, sweaters, all kinds of stuff. OK. So we're just gonna keep going, making those extended single crochets all the way around. And when we get to the stitch marker, we'll pull it out and just continue putting it back into that first stitch of the next round. So that way we always know where the beginning of the round is. Um So we can kind of keep track of how many rounds we have done. So there's our first stitch put that back in and after the first round or two, it does get easier to hang on to. It's so tiny at the beginning, it's a little bit, it feels a little bit fussy at first because you, you know, you're trying to crochet but you're holding on to this itty bitty little thing. But I find that I could just put my finger in inside the top of it to kind of hang on to it like this as I'm going and it um it, it seems to seems to help. All right. So there is the end of round three and if you forget your stitch marker, if you pull it out and forget to put it back in, in order to count your rows, actually, we'll do it on the next, on my next piece because you're gonna continue going around and around and around until you have 19 rounds and your piece will look like this. Sorry, I switched colors on you. I hope that wasn't confusing. Um This is what your piece will look like and just to help you count those rounds here, we are back at the, if you take a look at where the beginning of your, you know, beginning of working in the round, it was right here. That was your very first stitch see how there's that gap there. That's gonna help us know where the beginning is around us. So 123456789, 1011, 1213, 1415, 1617, 1819 stitches right there. So you can count them, just make sure when you're counting them. Each kind of set of one V above and one VV below that is one stitch there. All right. So once you've worked your piece so that you've got 19 rounds, then you're gonna start doing the increasing. Let me show you where that is in the pattern. OK? Because, because the beginning of the hat, no matter what size you're working on, all of that is gonna be the same, you started out exactly the same, same stitch count the same 19 rounds. Everything is the same for all the sizes. And then as we continue working, it's going to be the same for all sizes for a couple of rounds. And then after that, I will explain this about all this parenthesis stuff here. Hm. Oh, we've got a hi from Oxford Florida. Hi, Phyllis, thanks for saying hi. Um And someone's suggesting that the stitch would be good in a baby blanket too. It would. And if you work it back and forth and turn rose, it has similar stitch properties, but it looks very different. The texture of it looks like it's, it does not have the same texture as this as it as it is on the round. So that's kind of a fun thing to experiment with. Actually, I do have a video on the creative crochet corner website. I, I'm pretty sure it's a free video all about the extended single crochet if you're interested in looking at that and I compare and contrast um working it in the round and then working it back and forth and turn rose as well. All right. So we've already gotten through the knot part and now we've moved on to the hat. So we're in round number 20 because we've worked 19 rounds here and we're going to make an extended single crochet into, into the next stitch, two extended single crochets into the next stitch and then everything within those brackets is going to be repeated a total of five times. Ok. So what that looks like is this? So we, we do one extended single crochet into the next stitch. I will mark that and then we're gonna do two extended single crochets into the next stitch. One and two. And then we're gonna repeat that little, um that little sequence. So one and the next and two in the following one and two, we're gonna do that again. One in the next and two in the following one and two, one and the next and two in the following one and two, one in the next and two in the following one and two. Oops, let me redo that stitch there we are. OK. So that was round number 20 round number 21. We're going to do extended single crochet and teach you the next two stitches and then two extended single crochets into the next stitch. So that looks like this. So we'll do an extended, so crochet here, replace my marker because that's the beginning of the round, another extended single crochet here and then two extended single crochets here. One and two. I will repeat that again. One, one and 21 and two. OK. So we'll do one, one and two. You may notice that we are putting that increase. So an increase is just um a place where you're putting two stitches into one stitch. We are placing that increase in the second stitch of the increase from the previous round. So here's our increase from the previous round. You can see those two stitches go into one stitch. So we're gonna work this first of the two normally. And the second of the two is where we're placing the increase. So that means there's two stitches there. So in this way, you can just kind of read your stitches and know where to place those increases. They go in the second stitch of the increase from the previous round. All right. So we've worked round 21. Now on round 22 we're going to do an extended single crochet into three stitches and then we're going to increase and then we're, we're gonna repeat that. So, 123 and then an increase, one two, three and then an increase. And I should tell you on this round, this is where we're going to be placing our stitch markers that are gonna help us remember where to do our increases. So if you're someone who can recognize where your increases are, if you can easily see there's two stitches there, you don't have to put a bunch of markers here. But I do think that once your hat gets a little bigger, it's a little easier just to have that stitch marker there to remind you to do your increase. So we're placing a stitch marker in the big in the first stitch of each repeat. So here's our very beginning of the round. So we had 123 and then an increase here over these two with these two stitches and then here we start our next repeat. So one, 123 and there's our increase. Now we're going to repeat that again. So one and we'll place our stitch marker in there. So that was the beginning of the next repeat. 12 and three, those three stitches are just worked, you know, into one stitch into a one stitch, no increasing there. And then on the next stitch we increase. So that just means two extended, single crochets into one stitch. Now we're gonna repeat that again. So here's the first stitch of the next repeat, I'll place a marker in it and two more just working even one and two. And then now we're gonna do two stitches into the following stitch and increase right here. OK? We're gonna repeat that one more time. There is the first stitch of the sequence one and then one in the next one and the next and then an increase. All right. So that was round number 22. So now you can see we have all these stitch markers placed for me. The purple one is the beginning of the round and all the other ones are just marking places um where the beginning of the repeat is. And so as we work around as we work around our hat, we're gonna continue to increase for a while and it depends on what size you're making, ho how many rounds of increasing you're gonna do. And I'll explain that in just a second. But as you're working around, you just pull out the stitch marker work all the way across until there's one stitch left that's un worked before the next marker. OK. So here is, there's our first stitch working across until there's one stitch left right there before this marked stitch, which is right there and then we're gonna place our increase right there. So again, that increase is going in the second stitch of the previous rounds increase if that makes sense. Otherwise you can just think about it in the stitch stitch before our mark stitch, just put two stitches in that stitch to keep it simple. OK, so let's talk a little bit about how many, how you know how many rounds to do. So if you are a little newer to reading patterns, um I just wanna let you know that I did do a live event where I talked all the way through a pattern and explained what all the different parts of the pattern are, what they mean, all the little abbreviations and the numbers and all that kind of stuff. Um So if you are interested in that, you know, go check that out, but just for the purposes of getting through this pattern, um I know that this is a lot of information here. There are a lot of sequences of numbers right here. So this means for rounds number 23 to 29 in the preemie size hat or from 23 to 30 in the newborn size hat, 23 to 31 in the three months, I believe it's six months, 1218. No, I'm not really sure. Let me just let me check what they, what the sizes are here. So the, the numbers correspond to the sizes that are listed here. So they correspond to the circumferences here and they also correspond to the sizes listed, which are right here. So first outside of the parentheses, we have the preemie size, like I said before. Then 20 rounds 23 to 30. That'd be the newborn size. That's how many, you know, the rounds that you work. These increases for. Then we have three months, then we have six months, nine months, 12 months, 18 months and toddler. Ok. So these little groups just depending on where you find them within the parentheses, those are corresponding to the sizes that are in the same position within these parentheses. Ok. I just want to explain that because I know a lot of people have questions about that when they're a little newer to reading crochet patterns, it can be really confusing. So if, if you are having trouble and there's too many numbers go through and find the size that you're working here. So like, let's say you were working the newborn size, just note where it is within the parentheses. So it's the first size within the first set of parentheses and you could go over here and just highlight the numbers that pertain to you. So this is the first set of numbers within the first set of parentheses. The only reason there's two groups of parentheses here is just to help break it up. Otherwise it, it was just a whole long list of numbers. It's like, I don't know where it would be really hard to tell. You'd really have to count through to see where your size was. But this way if you know you're, you're making the, um, let's see that 12 month size, it's in the beginning of this group parentheses, you can just ignore whatever is going on in the first group. Zero in on that. That's those are your numbers right there. OK. I just want to explain that just in case anybody is getting confused about all that parentheses. Business. Ok. I'm a little behind in my comments here. Let me go back and check. Um Being as saying, I'm not that far into the hat. I'm still doing the K not part that is totally fine. You can absolutely work at your own pace. You don't need to keep up with what I'm teaching you. Um because I'm gonna be jumping ahead because I have some samples prepped um ahead of time so that I can show you everything that you need to know it within the hour that we're doing this. So don't even worry about it. That's awesome. I'm excited you're working on it. Ok. I am because I don't think I've ever seen it and I've crocheted for 50 years. Oh, ok. Oh, ok. Maybe you're excited about the stitch pattern. I think that's what you're talking about. That's awesome. Yeah, this, this stitch pattern, the extent of single crochet. I've been using this for many years, but it's really not that well known of a stitch pattern. Um which is so surprising because it has so many cool qualities. II I love using it for um working on cables and color work because it al it also is a very vertical stitch instead of kind of skewing off to the side, it's flat, it's stretchy. It's a lot of things that a lot of other crochet stitches aren't. I mean, I love other crochet stitches too, but it's really nice to have this kind of in your crochet tool belt of things. Um, stitches you can go to because it's just different than a lot of the others. All right. So you're going to continue going around and around and around just working those extended single crochets, making sure you're increasing in the stitch before the stitch marker. And you're gonna work until you have gone through, you know, around 29 or 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 just depending on the size that you're working and, and at the end here, it'll tell you how many stitches right here you should have. So you can double check that before moving on. But I want to point out, um I want to point out a couple of things actually. Um This is what you're gonna be doing and this is how you're shaping things as you make those increases, it's going to be creating this kind of funnel shape. Um And if you have decided to switch to, to use a different yarn or if you didn't check your gauge, um you just need a monitor at this point when you think you're done. Um going around those rounds. You need to check your circumference here just to make sure that it's, you know, on target for what you want, the circumference of the hat to be. Because when you are finished with these, all these increases, this measurement around here is the measurement that the rest of your hat will be because we're not, we're not gonna be doing any increases. And I have noticed, you know, after you're done doing these increases, that kind of flare out when you do the next round or two, it might grow just a very small amount larger than what this would actually measure if you measure this with a measuring tape. So just, you know, be mindful of that. But for the most part, this is gonna give you a very good idea about the size of your hat wherever you're at here. So if you switched and used a different yarn, a thicker yarn, a thinner yarn, you would just keep working on those increases, making five extra extended single crochets um in each round until this is the size that you want it to be. So, in that way, this, this pattern is super adaptable. It's adaptable to different yarns. You can make it any size you want. If you wanted to make a very large hat, you know, you could just continue increasing until it's the size you want it to be. And then you can just work even after that. So the, the this is showing you all the increases that I needed for. I think the new um this might be the preemie size. I can't remember. It might be the, it's either preemie or newborn size. This is what it'll look like. Um And then after that point, you're gonna just continue working around and around and around, placing an extended single crochet into each stitch around. No more increases after you have finished here. And it's, you know, the right circumference. So when you do that, your piece will look like this. So you can see um let me move this here. So you can see right here. This is where all that increasing happened. And then this section here is just working even and it does flare out a little bit because this is holding it in a little here. But for the most part, like if you, if you just kind of, if we open this up and make it a three dimensional thing, you can see all the increasing is happening here and then it's just working even at this point. Um And then you'll just work that as for as long as you want to like as uh basically as deep as you want the hat to be, but there's gonna be a little extra because we're gonna do the rolled brim. So in the pattern, I do have, you know, a suggested amount of rounds to work there where you're just working, even working even just means you're placing one extended, single crochet into one extended s single crochet, just 11 stitch per one stitch. Um So I do ha here have listed how many rounds I suggest. Um But you can absolutely change that if you want, if you want a shorter hat, if you want a taller hat. Um You know, if you're gay just not working up the same as mine, you can definitely adjust it there very easily by doing more or fewer rounds. And then once you get to this point here, then you can go ahead and we're gonna, we're gonna be doing the slip stitch, um, the slip stitch edging which creates this really awesome curled brim. So this is something that I thought was really only possible with knitting for a long time, even though I'd been crushing for a long time. I couldn't quite wrap my brain around how to get a nice rolled brim like this. This when I first started knitting, rolled brim hats were like, it was like the thing to knit. You would make this top down hat and end with the rolled brim and it was super cute. Um And I always just kind of liked how tidy that looks and it just rolls up on itself and it looks, it's just cute and I really wanted that little rolled edge. I just feel like it looks really good with the little knot. It just kind of compliments it really well. And so I wanted that. And so I did, I, I've done some experimenting and I realized when you work, slip stitches into the front loops, it makes your fabric curl. And so sometimes curling is what you want. And I know a lot of times we're like, oh, it's curling. I hate that. I gotta block it. Um But sometimes you want, you know, it's good to know the anatomy of your stitches and the behavior of, of your stitches so that you can use it to your benefit. So normally we don't like the curl, but in this case, I wanted the curl to create that little design detail. OK. So here we are in the rolled brim section of our pattern round one, we're gonna change to a larger hook and we're gonna add an additional strand of yarn to the first. We're gonna work with them held together as one and we're gonna make slip stitches through the front loop into each stitch to the end of the round. So what that means is, I've switched over to a G hook, which is a four millimeter hook or I should have mentioned this at the beginning that we needed an extra hook here. Um Sorry, I forgot to mention that the only thing it's used for is this rolled brim. And the reason we're switching to a larger hook is because slip stitches, people naturally do slip stitches really tightly. It's just the nature of the stitch things get tighter. So definitely feel free to go up multiple hook sizes. I mean, you might even find yourself using like an I or a K or a very large hook. Um, the way you make your slip stitches will just sort of determine what size hook you need at this point, you can also intentionally make your slip stitches like taller or not taller, but like looser. I'll show you that in a minute. Um But for some people that's very hard to do and it's easier just to switch up your hook size and use a larger hook. We just don't want these slip stitches to be to get too tight because then it's going, it's, it's you, the baby is not gonna be able to wear the hat, right. So if this is just, you know, it's good to have a little bit of, you know, we don't want them so loose that they look loose. Um We just want to make sure that it's still a good size for the rest of the hat so that it fits nicely. All right. So I'm gonna take my stitch marker out and we are adding an extra strand of yarn. So here I have an extra little ball, you definitely don't need this much. You, you need a much smaller ball, maybe closer to this or actually probably even quite a bit less than this. Um, just kind of ball off a little extra and you can hold them together as one at this point and you're gonna crochet as though they're one strand. And so the, the reason we're adding this is it makes that ridge, it makes this roll brim just a little bit more substantial, a little thicker. It just kind of gives a little more heft. And it also, when you add that extra strand, it will keep it from getting too tight. You know, that seems weird because it seems like if you have a thicker yarn when you crochet, it's gonna be tighter, but it's gonna keep the circumference larger is what I mean. So. OK. OK. Um Jen is saying that they're going to learn the extended single crochet. I think I like the look of it and how flat it is and the stretchiness. Yeah, I love that stitch. It's so versatile. OK. All right. Um And hi and, and Jealous. Um saying good morning. Hi. All right. So we've got our two strands held together. I'm just laying that new one right here, just kinda laying it along with the other and then we're gonna place our hook underneath just the front loop of the stitch. So normally we would crochet under both loops like this, but we're gonna be putting our hook under just the front loop here and then we're gonna yarn over with both strands, kind of drop that one there. So we're gonna yarn over with both strands and we're gonna pull that through the stitch and pull it through the loop on our hook right there. And when you do that, you can kind of pull up on it a little bit here to make that a little bit longer. So it makes it easier to get through. So again, we're gonna go underneath, just that front loop. Grab both strands, pull it through your stitch and pull it through the loops on your hook, front loop, yarn over, pull through, pull through, OK. We're just making a slip stitch here. And we want this to be, you know, we don't want this to be super tight if you're having a hard time. Um dealing with the bulk of these two yarns, maybe you wanna switch up a hook size if it's not working for, you just give that a try. Um But, but we really, we just wanna make sure that we are not, let me show you what happens if I start crocheting this too tight. If I grab that and I pull through here and watch this loop on the hook. This one when I pull that through here, keep watching that same loop. It's gonna get smaller and smaller as I pull, see how that can get really, really tight. And there's no way I can work into that stitch on the next stitch. So just be mindful when you know, do this in slow motion. If you find your slip stitches, end up being too tight when you pull through here. You don't want to let this, this loop right here get smaller so you can kind of just pop it through and pull it in that, pull this loop up in that direction that stretches out this loop. If that makes sense, this is a very exaggerated way to deal with it. Like you don't have to swing your whole arm around here. But, um, you know, it just, sometimes when, when things are getting too tight, just slow down and take a look at what the loops are doing and if something is shrinking as you're working it and maybe there's a different way you can pull on it, um to make it, to make the stitch not behave like that to, to not get smaller. Of course, you can always, you know, switch up to a different hook if you're still having trouble. All right. So I'm gonna just continue. I'm only working underneath that front loop and I'm just making slip stitches here. Very simple with two strands held together. This could be a fun time to add in a different color. Like you could, you could cut your yarn and do two strands of, you know, a another coordinating or not, you know, contrasting color or you could use, you could even use a thicker yarn instead of 22 strands. If you just happen to have a little bit in your stash, you could do that or you could have one strand the same as your hat and another strand that you just kind of add into there for a little bit of a modeled appearance, which would be pretty. But, um, going back to the, to the beginning of this live when I was talking about the cotton yarn, if you're using a cotton yarn that has basically no stretch to it, this slip stitch section, just check after you do a round of it and see if it's really constricting the circumference of your hat because you just don't want it to do that. You just wanna make sure they can still wear it. And if that's happening, you can either loosen things up with a larger hook, you can switch out for different yarn, you could just do a different edging, um, maybe something like single crocheting around and then the next round you could single crochet around just through the back loop and do that for a couple of rounds that makes nice, some nice horizontal ridges there and would still have enough stretch um, for those cotton yarns that have no stretch because the uh extended single crochet stitch is, is quite stretchy, especially compared to a lot of other crochet stitches. Um You know, you don't wanna, you don't wanna add an edging on that, that kind of ruins the, the stretchy qualities of the, the lovely extended single crochet fabric. All right. I think I'm almost all the way around. Yep. And then you're just gonna continue working into the front loop. So after this, I have just a couple of stitches here. After this, we're gonna start working into that slip stitch round. We just made. OK. So these are all slip stitches that we just made again, we're gonna work underneath just the front loops. But remember now there's two strands here because we were holding two strands together. So just expect to put your hook under both of those and you're gonna continue doing the exact same thing. So we're just placing our hook under that front loop and making a yarn over, pulling it through the stitch and through the loop on the hook to complete the slip stitch just like that. So you can see because we are working in that front loop only. It's kind of like we're working slip stitches on the front surface of our, of our hat. It wants to sit on the front and it's even kind of angling this way, it's starting to flip. So the reason that this works, the reason that it wants to curl is that, you know, where you are stitching, when you're stitching into that front loop, it's placing your stitches, you know, it's not gonna be on top. It's going to be, it's gonna start to just push it over towards you pulling it this way, I guess I should say because of just working in that front loop. So every time we go around, we're, we're bringing our fabric a little more and a little more and a little more closer to us if that makes sense or closer to your body. Ok. So you can see it's already, it's already curling. If I pull this back, you can actually see the slip stitches we're making, they're like little vertical stitches in here. But you really do have to kind of flip this up in order to see them because it just wants to keep flipping in this direction, which is what I wanted to do because I want it to create this cute little rolled rim here. Just adorable. Ok. So you, you would just um work a total of five rounds of the slip stitching that's gonna create this thickness of the brim. I mean, really, you can just work as many rounds as you want to until it looks how you want it to look. Um, and then you can go ahead and fasten off and then, um, I'm gonna show you how to do an invisible join just to make things a little cleaner that you don't have to do it this way you can just fasten off however you like. But let's just say we've already worked all of our rounds here and we want to cut our yarn. So we'll just cut it here and instead of slip stitching to fasten off, we just pull it straight up like that and then we can thread our yarn onto a yarn needle and then we're going to place, we're gonna skip this stitch right here. That's the next stitch. And we're gonna go underneath both loops of the following stitch like this with our yarn needle. And then we'll go back down from where we came out of. So, if I pull on this, you can see if you look, if you watch right here. That's where my yarn came from. Watch right at the tip of my thumb there. See, that's where my yarn came from right there. So we're gonna go right back down into that same place like this and you pull it tight enough so that this little V that you just made just looks like any other stitch and it looks very seamless. You can't even see it like there's no knot or anything there. It's just very, very seamless and smooth. That's just a little detail. You don't have to do it that way. You couldn't fasten off how you normally do, but I just wanted to show you that in case you wanted to try it. And then the last thing that you're gonna do, um, besides blocking is you can close up this little tiny slit here. That happened because we started off with a row instead of a round. So we've got that little hole there. So you can go ahead and just use your yarn tail and we'll just go underneath that first. Well, really, that's the last stitch that we did in that row, we'll just kind of go underneath those two loops and connect it over here to just sort of connect that together. So it looks nice and smooth on the top. And if you find that there's a little hole here, I can't even really see it. It looks pretty good. But if you, if you do find that there's a little hole there, you can always kind of weave your yarn back and forth like this. You know, you don't wanna take a stitch over because that's gonna be distracting. But if you can go in sliding your needle kind of through the thickness of the stitch, so it can kind of bridge any little gap that might be there. Um I don't think you're gonna have to worry too much about that, but if you're using a thicker yarn, you might be able to see something there and then you can go ahead and just weave in your ends here. I'll tuck mine in here and then I can show you how to do the knot gonna weave my ends in on the inside here. So we don't see it. If you guys have any last questions, then let me know because I'm just about finished with my tutorial. Looks like I have a little loop there. I'm not sure if that's from a stitch, but I'm gonna just kind of catch that so that it's not gonna peak out waiter. There we go. All right. So you just weave in your end, cut that off and then you can um block it. However you like, if you're using a wool, you could wet block it since I used acrylic, I use steam blocking on this to make it a little bit softer. Um So if you've never done that before, I actually do have a video on that on the Creative Crochet Corner website as well. Um But basically you just take an iron, put it on the highest setting, fill it with water, put it on the highest steam setting and then you're gonna just hover it over your project. You're not actually going to touch your project with the iron, you just hover it over to just kind of let some steam come down on it and you can just sort of pat it into place however to kind of shape it and make it look, all your stitches look even. And when you do that, when you block acrylics, it really gives your acrylics a lot more drape and it softens it up quite a bit. Um So I always do that for my acrylic projects because I just feel like it's a nice finishing it. It, it just looks, makes it look a little, you know, more polished. OK. So then after you've finished your hat, then you're just gonna tie this into an overhand knot. So the, the trick is I like, I like to put my finger and my thumb around here to just kind of hang on to that and make sure that that's an open space and then you're gonna take the end of the knot and tuck it through that open space like that. And the trick is, is you don't wanna just yank on it because you're gonna kinda distort your stitches. I mean, we're pulling this crochet fabric kind of out of, out of sorts a little here. So just kind of take your time and kind of move things around a little until it looks good. You know, that might mean making the knot a little tighter, that might mean pulling down here and then pulling up here, you know, you can just kind of adjust it. It takes a little, a little bit of finessing to make it look cute, but I think that looks pretty good and that's all you have to do. That's it. Cute baby hat. All right. Looks like I've answered all of the questions. I just want to thank you guys for being here and for saying hi and making me know that you guys are out there. I really appreciate that. Um Yeah, thank you guys so much and definitely put any suggestions in the comments if you guys have suggestions on things you'd like to see in the future. Um I love that when people suggest us. All right. So until my next live, thank you guys so much and happy crocheting everybody.
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