Lining a Crocheted Hat with Fleece

Hey, you guys. Welcome to our live tutorial. My name is Brenda KB Anderson. And today we're gonna do something a little bit different. Normally, I lead people through a crochet project or sometimes sewing projects or sometimes knitting projects. Um And this is kind of a combination of, um, you know, somebody who crochets or knits, a hat might wanna put a lining in which requires some sewing. So, um this is definitely approachable, even if you are not a, you know, a sew, if you are unfamiliar with sewing, then it's please, you know, stick around because this is going to, uh, you know, this is, this is for you. I'm making this for you guys. If you already happen to have a sewing machine, if you're already a sewer, then this will be a breeze for you. Um But I do have modifications for those of you who are newer at this and you can definitely do this. Ok. We're gonna do a hand stitching method and we're gonna do a machine sewing method. Um And either work, it's great, either, you know, results in a nicely lined hat. Um The machine method is of course faster So that's why I'm including that. Um, but, you know, don't be discouraged if you don't have a sewing machine, you're gonna be just fine. Ok. So all you really need is a needle and thread and some fleece and the hat you wanna line. Um, so today I'm gonna, I wanna show you a couple of examples here. Um, so this hat, this is called the Broomstick. Let's see. Broomstick. It's a broomstick lace hat. It's called, what did I call this Bewitched Beanie? And this was a special project that I designed um for gold members of the creative Crochet corner website. Um And it involves a broomstick la broomstick lace and you may not be able to see because there's a lining in here, but I'm gonna pull the lining kind of out. You can see now how many holes are in this hat. It is a beautiful hat. It's such a lovely stitch pattern, but my daughter wanted to wear it as her winter hat. So I thought, well, that's not gonna cut it here in Minnesota. So we're gonna have to line that which is fine. Um Because I know how to do that and I'm gonna be sharing that with you. So this is what the inside of it looks like. This one was done mostly by a machine. Um The pieces were put together by a machine and then I did a little bit of hand sewing here along the edge. And so as I do as I walk you guys through the tutorial, I'm gonna be talking about different modifications you might be making for, you know, for different reasons for your hats. Um, so that's just one of those things to keep in mind. You can mix and match hand sewing and machine, sewing if you have a sewing machine, otherwise if you do not have a sewing machine, you'll just hand sew the whole thing. Ok. So that's one example. Um, you know, the reason you might want to line a hat is because it isn't warm enough, right? So even with a, a closer stitch pattern, even, you know, if it was a single crochet or something like that, you know, if you live somewhere that's very cold, sometimes you can still feel the wind blowing through your stitches and it's just nice to have that extra layer in there. Um So another reason you might want to line your hat is if you find the, the crocheted fabric or the knitted fabric to be kind of itchy or, you know, for those who have like a sensitivity to, um, whatever it was crocheted or knit out of. So, um, my other daughter wanted to wear this hat. She loves this hat, but it was kind of bothering her. The wool in it was just a little too itchy. She has more of a sensitive skin. Um, you know, especially on her forehead. So I ended up lining it and I did just a very short little band which I just wanted to show you that's sort of like a, a cheater way to line. If you only have sensitivities or issues in that one area that's kind of touching your forehead, you can do this. Um, this is not what the tutorial is gonna be about, it's gonna be about a full lining, but I just wanted to throw this in there for those of you who, you know, this might solve the problem. I'm just doing a band of fabric on the inside here and this was just hand stitched in. Um, but you know, of course, you can do a fully lined hat if you are sensitive to, to wool and that's what I'm going to be doing with this hat. This is the same yarn. Um, and I'm gonna be making a full complete lining here. Um, and I'm gonna be using the hand sewing method for this hat. And then I've got this hat also. This is, um, oh, and by the way, in case anybody's wondering these hats, the ones that are, um, look kind of similar here. This is from my tutorial on the freestyle beanie. It's kind of more like a recipe pattern where, um, you can use any yarn weight, any, you know, whatever hook size you need to, to get it uh, a fabric that you like, and it's basically just kind of a recipe style hat. Um If you guys are interested in that. That was a tutorial on the creative crochet corner website. So this hat here, this is a little granny striped beanie, which is super fun. You can make it out of scraps of yarn. This is for an upcoming tutorial on December 17th. I'm gonna be teaching you guys how to make this hat. So here's your little bitty preview here. Um And so I'm gonna be lining this hat today, um, fully lining it because the granny stitch, even if you work it up at a fairly tight gauge, you know, there's always gonna be those holes between your stitches. Yeah, I can even poke my fingers through and that's just not warm enough for where I live. So, um, so we're gonna be lighting that with fully, with fleece. And so this version, this hat is gonna be lined by machine, but you can, you can, you know, either hat could be lined in either, uh, with either technique and we'll, we'll go into that as, as I walk you through. All right. So, um, besides just the thread and needle and, um, your fleece, you're also gonna need a little bit of paper and a pencil because we're gonna be creating a pattern. And don't let that scare you. This isn't a complicated pattern drafting class or anything like that. This is very, very, very simple. Um, oh, let's go back and talk about the fleece for a minute though. When you're choosing fleece. You know, especially for those of you who have not gone to the fabric store. Um, when you go to the fabric store, you will be buying your fabric by the yard so you can bring up a whole bolt of fabric and then have someone cut it and you just pay for that little section. Um, and when you're choosing your fleece, you know, you wanna find something that is a fabric that looks nice with your hat. So it's gonna be on the inside, nobody's gonna see it, but especially if you have a hat that has holes in it, you want to think about that, you could even bring your hat with you to the fabric store. Um, because if you put a fabric behind it, you might see a little shadow of that color kind of peeking through. So you probably want to find something that kind of just blends into the background a little bit. Like, for example, um, if you wanted to line this hat, like, and you didn't really want to see stuff peeking through, you probably wouldn't want to use like a bright yellow, even though you will never see it on. You know, you're never going to see the inside of the hat. You might see a little shadow of that color kind of peeking through and it might look a little weird. Um, so just think about using maybe a more muted color or a color that kind of goes with one of the colors in your hat that, so it kind of looks like it belongs there. So, um, another thing to think about is you probably don't want to use a pattern fleece unless you're gonna, unless it's a fleece that the pattern is only on one side. Because, you know, for example, if you've got these holes here and you've got a pattern fleece, some areas are gonna be pink and some blue and that just might look a little distracting this fleece is what I'm going to use to line this beanie. And it does not matter at all because it's on the inside of the hat and actually, it will look just lovely with these colors, I think together. Um, so I kind of like this pattern for the inside the outside of the fabric has, you know, like a more muted, you can't really see the pattern so much. Um But yet it's on the inside of a solid stitch fabric, you're never gonna see it. So that's just a non issue. You can definitely choose a pattern fleece for something that doesn't have, you know, a lot of holes or lace or whatever. If that's, if that's not the reason you're lighting the hat, then you're fine. You can choose whatever fleece. Um But one thing you might want to think about when you're getting the fleece is how much does your hat need to stretch to fit on your head. So like if you made your hat out of a very, very stretchy fabric and it has to stretch a lot to get over your head. You also will be a lot more successful if you find a fleece that also has stretch in it. So most fleeces do have stretch. So this is just a very basic fleece and it stretches a good amount in this direction. It does not stretch hardly at all, just a tiny amount in this direction. Ok. So that's something to think about. So this would be a good amount of stretch for most styles of hats. If your hat is extremely stretchy, you might want to look for a fleece that has a little bit of um, a lycra um or elastic fabric in your, in the uh fabric content. So for example, this one has extra, extra boingy stretch here. So this is going to be a great fabric to use to line um, this hat because this hat does have to stretch a bit to be able to fit. So, and I don't want to scare you guys. You don't have to worry about most of your, you know, most of the fabrics you pick out at the fabric store are gonna work fine with whatever hat you have. It's just something to consider if you have a very stretchy hat that needs to stretch a lot to go on your hat, I'm talking more than a couple of inches Ok. Um, then you need to find a lightning that will stretch as much as your hat does. Otherwise it can kind of look a little weird. Ok. So you can choose, you know, whatever fleece and you're just gonna need the amount of fleece as like the height of your hat. So for example, if your hat measured like 10 inches or let's say it measured nine inches here, you'd probably want to get, um, a, a foot of fabric from the fabric store so that it's long enough and you know, you can have a little bit of excess to kind of play with. Um All right. So, um, yeah, your hat will basically dictate how much yardage you need. Ok. So in order to, oh, and I also wanted to mention too, there is a download that goes along with this um, tutorial. Let me get that out here. The aligning a crochet hat with fleece. This also works for knitted hats too, um, or store bought hats, you know, like whatever, any kind of hat that you'd want to put a fleece lining in, it works just fine. So you can go ahead and download that tutorial. It's gonna have all the instructions for both methods in there as well as some photos to help you along. Um, you know, a list of materials and all that kind of stuff, the process as well. So that will help you um, as you're working on these at home. So when you start out, you're going to make your pattern piece. Um, first, let's see. Um, well, actually you need, you can determine where you would like your lining to end on your ha your hat. So for example, for this hat, your lining could come all the way down to maybe just maybe a half inch or quarter inch above that fold in the brim. You would not want your lining to come all the way down the whole edge of the hat because then when you fold it up, your fleece lining is gonna be on the outside of your hat unless that's the look you're going for. Um, so think about that, just make a mental note like this is where I want the lining to end. Another option could be maybe you just want to line this section because this is the section where there's holes between your stitches and maybe your lining would just end right there like above the, the ribbed brim here. Ok. So just decide that for yourself, wherever you'd like your lining to end, make a mental note of that. Um We're gonna be coming back to that in a little bit. OK? And then you're going to create your pattern piece, the main shape. So for this hat, I, I think I'm going to have the lining come all the way down into my ribbed brim. So maybe about a half of an inch above or so, somewhere around here. Um, we can kind of true that up later. Not a big deal, but I, I do, I do not want it to come all the way. I, I don't want it to be as long as this. However, when I'm making my pattern piece because this is kind of bulky here. I'm gonna be ho um, using this unfolded to make my pattern piece just because I can, I think it can lay a bit a little bit flatter and it'll help me to draft that pattern piece. If you have a hat that does not have a folded brim, you don't have to worry about any of that. Like for example, if this is what you're lining here, you just have this little bit of a brimmed edge. You don't need to worry about whether it's folded unfolded because it doesn't do that. OK? So then you're gonna take your hat and then you're gonna fold, you know, lay it, lay it flat on the table and then you're gonna fold it in half like this. So what we really have here is four layers, right? So we have a layer here, layer here, layer here and a layer here. OK? So those four layers are going to um that's kind of like think of it as four quadrants of your hat pattern. You're gonna end up with four hat lighting pieces when we're done with this. So just kind of squish it down, shape it like when you do that, when you fold it in half, when you have a hat like this, sometimes, you know, this side of your curve, like, see how the tip of the hat is. Like leaning a little bit to this side over here. It's kind of coming over. You can just sort of reshape that with your hands to make it a symmetrical piece and have that tip be right in the center as best as you can. All right, and then we're gonna take a piece of paper. I just have just a plain piece of copy paper here and I'm gonna lay that underneath my hat and I'm gonna use a pencil and I'm just gonna trace around the shape. So right next to my hat just doing the best I can. It's OK if it's a little messy. Um And I do want my hat to come down to part way into this brim. I can see right here that indentation, that's where my brim was folded. So I'm just gonna draw a little notch on each side here about where I want that to end. OK. So I'm gonna remove that. I'm gonna make these darker so you guys can see a little better like this and then it would come straight across the bottom. So I'm just gonna use my ruler to connect these two here. And actually, if you wanna get that really straight, let's make a little fold line um about halfway like right through the center of our piece. So I'm gonna just draw a line here. That's where we're gonna fold it. You can see it's a little narrower here than on this side. But we're gonna fix that in a minute. So we're gonna fold that on our fold line, fold it in half like that. And then you can take this to a window. There's a picture of this in your download and hold it up against the window. So you can see the light that's shining through here. Actually, I'm gonna make this line very dark. And hopefully you guys will be able to see this through my paper. Maybe when I pick it up, you can kind of see the faint, there's a faint line, here's the drawn line and here is a faint line right here of what's showing through. Ok, I'm gonna trace that just so you guys can kind of see. So when you're holding this up against the window, you'll see two lines there and you basically this is called chewing up your pattern. You're just kind of making it the same from side to side. So you have a line here and a line there. So you can choose which line to go with. Um or you can draw and I'll explain that in just a little bit more in a minute, or you can draw a line right down the middle and that would be your new line. So that would be keeping the distance from here to here the same. Um, if you pick the line in the middle. But there's one more thing that we need to do is we need to measure from here to here because we need to know if this is going to fit around our head. So we've got, that's about 2.5 inches to this line right here. So what that means is if we open this up 2.5 inches from there to there and say it was 2.5 inches from there to there, this piece would be five inches wide, which makes sense because my hat is about 20 inches in circumference and we've got five inches here. But remember I said this was gonna be 1/4 of our hat. So we've got five inches plus the other three pieces would all be five inches. So that would be five inches times four pieces, which is 20 inches, which would be about right. So usually when I'm tracing this out and drawing that line on there, usually I bump it in just a tiny amount. So that's why I hesitated to draw that line halfway between those. Um, usually I end up bumping it in just a little bit. So that way, the distance from here to here across my piece will match pretty closely with my hat. So, um, I'm going to choose to use this line here, that's gonna be a line of my hat, the side of my hat and I'm going to, I'm just gonna look through here. Ok. That seems pretty good. I'm gonna draw, I'm gonna use my ruler to draw straight line across the bottom of my piece. So that would be about where I want the bottom of the, the edge of my hat to be. Now, one more thing though, before you cut this out, we've got a piece that matches our hat. However, we do still need to think about and consider how much our hat had to stretch to be on our head. Now, this hat doesn't have to stretch too much. It's like two inches at the most for like, you know, my 22 inch head, it has to stretch about two inches. So is my lining going to stretch the same amount. So that's something to think about. So when you're trying to figure that out, you can find your fleece lining piece. Um, I'm gonna be lining it in this and you can measure out your 20 inches or whatever, um, whatever your circumference of your head is gonna be, you can measure that out and then put that around your head and then see if that's stretchy enough to fit around your head and it should be just fine because most fleece has, you know, enough stretch for that, you know, a couple of inches. But that's something that you want to check because if you choose a fleece that hardly has any stretch at all, then you're gonna need to cut your fleece just a little bit bigger because no matter what, when you cut this out, when you add all those pieces together, they are going to need, they are going to need to measure enough that it's going to fit your head. You know. Um, if you can rely on your fleece to, to stretch, that's great. If you can't rely on it to stretch, then it really needs to be like your head measurement if that makes sense. Oh, this is making sense. And you guys, I hope that you guys ask questions if this is not making sense. Ok. So, um, just to kind of recap to get this pattern piece, you are going to fold your piece so that you've got four layers, you're gonna trace it out and find whatever the bottom of your fleece edge is gonna be, you're gonna trace that shape out and then you're going to determine if you like the width of that. So that, that needs to be, you know, if your hat stretches a little and your fleece also stretches a little, then you can make your fleece to the same size as your hat. If your hat stretches a lot, um, and your, and your fleece stretches a lot, then you can make it to the same size of your, as your hat. If your hat stretches a lot. But your fleece hardly stretches. Then your fleece is gonna actually have to be wider and bigger than your hat. Which I know seems crazy because you're putting it on the inside of your hat. But you'll just have to stretch out that hat to put the fleece in there. Otherwise it is not going to fit on your head. Right. Because the fleece only stretches, you know, your hat is gonna be restricted by how much your fleece can stretch. Ok. So, um, and then once you kind of determine what that width measurement is going to be, then you can, I'm gonna just cut this piece out like this. I'm cutting right on the line. Ok. And some of you who are sewers, you might be thinking, what are you doing? Don't you need a seam allowance? Don't you need to have a little extra fabric? And we'll get into that in just a minute. But for right now, um, we're just cutting that out to the shape that we drew. Ok. So here is our hat pattern and, um, this is assuming that we don't need any steam allowance on our fleece piece. So the reason that the reason that I did that is because this hat is going to be stitched by machine. And I do not want any seam allowance and I'll show you why when I get those pieces cut out, but basically they just butt up next to each other and they get zig zagged together um without any seam allowance needed at all. So now I'm gonna show you how to draft another type of hat. So this hat here, you can see this hat, you know, it was shaped and it came together, this hat, there wasn't a lot of shaping and it kind of comes together in a big kind of, you know, gathered in top of the hat. It's exactly the same way of creating that pattern. You will just, I'm just gonna unfold that so that I can get it, get it to fold over in this direction a little easier. So I'm just gonna take my piece, fold it in half. So now we've got those 44 layers and then we'll be tracing that on to our piece of paper. We start at the top and it's kind of um it's, it's a little bit more of a gradual curve here on this hat. But when we make our pattern piece, it can't be a gradual curve because that's going to make some weird wrinkly bits. So let me explain that in uh uh uh a little more in detail in just a second here. But just having you take a note that it kind of curves across the top a little bit, it doesn't come to a nice point like this hat came to a AAA nice little point there. OK. So we're gonna remove that. So here is the bottom of our lining and we really do need this to come to a point because as we sew our fleece pieces together, let me show you on the inside here. They need to all kind of come together and meet in the middle. Ok? So it needs to be a corner. So, and it should be a, a right angle corner and I'll, I'll show you OK. We're, we're just gonna eyeball this first and then I'll kind of chew it up with the ruler. So when you look at this piece, let's just draw a line down the center here of this piece, OK, I'll put it over here. So that's a pretty good approximation. We have similar amounts on each side. Um And then this comes up and we're gonna make this be a little bit less curved here. So that way it can come to a point, see how it's coming to a point right there. And this side is coming to a point here, we're gonna get rid of some of that fabric and that's OK because that excess fabric is just happening there. That was not the best line ever. That excess fabric here is happening because it's all being kind of gathered into the top and it kind of flares out a little, you know, if, if um if some of the lining fabric was pulled out of there, it would be perfectly fine because we don't need the lining fabric to be all. Um We don't need that much excess lining fabric up in here and all of the little dips and curves and all that stuff, it can just kind of skim across the inside um of all those gathers. So to figure out if this corner is gonna work when you sew all those pieces together, all you need to do is just take, uh you know, you can even use the corner of a piece of paper, just something that's a right angle and you can just make sure that that corner is a right angle for just a little bit, maybe like a half an inch or so. Um And, and then you can just kind of blend it into the rest of your line. OK. So we kind of did the best we could to sort of sort that out a little bit, then you can fold your piece in half again and then put it up to the window and see how you did like where your lines are coming through. And if they match up, I'm gonna look at mine against the light and actually they do match up pretty well. So I think it's gonna be fine if I just cut it out on these lines, but this is the point where you can um kind of true up those lines if you had, I'm gonna get rid of this. So this is less confusing. But if you had, you know, if you, if you put it up to the window and there was a line here and a line there, then you would decide if you like this line better or this line or a line straight in the middle. So the line straight in the middle that would be chewing it up. But again, like I said, you wanna make sure before you do that, that this distance here is about a quarter of the circumference around your hat. Ok? Unless you need it to stretch a lot more, unless your hat stretches a lot and your lining doesn't or something like that. Ok. So, so this could be the, the shape of um, a lining for this hat here and I'm gonna shorten it just a little bit because that was where that fold was. And I definitely want this to be up inside my hat and then I can go ahead and cut this out, ok. So you should end up with a piece that looks, you know, pretty similar to this. It should have that point at the top. And also another way to kind of check and see if your pieces are going to be, um, if they're gonna fit well together. This should also be a, you know, close to a right angle, this corner down here as well right there and this corner over here as well on, on any of these hat pattern pieces. Um The one I should have mentioned that here as well, that that should be, you know, close to a right angle, if not a right angle and you can kind of just make it into a right angle. All right. So once you get your hat patterns drafted, so this is just one out of four. If you are going to do this by hand stitching it, you're gonna need to cut your fabric out with a seam allowance around it. So if, if um if you're worried, you're gonna forget as you're cutting it out, then you can go ahead and just add a quarter of an inch or whatever amount of seam allowance that you want to have on your hat. You can just add that to your pattern piece. Ok. So you, you could trace this out or even before you cut this out, you just kind of use your ruler to add another line on the outside. I normally just use this and then I just eyeball a quarter of an inch around and it turns out fine for the most part. This is a very, um flexible and, um, you know, you're not, you don't have to worry about getting everything. Exactly. Exactly. Perfect for this kind of project. It really seems to work out really well, even if you're not being like super duper duper down to the like eighth of an inch or anything. If you're not being like that, that's OK, you'll be fine. Ok. So, um let's cut out our fabric pieces. So for this one I've already cut out some pieces ahead of time, just kind of based on my previous pattern draft that I made. Um So you're gonna cut out four of these pieces and when you cut this out, make sure that you're cutting it out in the fabric so that the most stretch goes sideways here. Ok. So you always wanna have no matter what, no matter what your grain line is doing or what your salvages are doing. It doesn't matter. You just wanna cut it out with the most stretch going around your head because it doesn't really need to stretch lengthwise, just needs to stretch widthwise. Ok. So you're gonna have the most stretch going in this direction when you cut it out. So I have already cut out my pieces. I've cut out plenty of these pieces because I've got this done in various stages. Um And it looks like, looks like I cut my lining out just a little bit longer, but that's OK. Um, uh, my last piece that I drafted, I made my lining come down into, in towards the edge of my hat just a little bit more, but that's fine. We'll just leave it like this. Um, but you can see that I cut it out with excess around the sides here and there's a little bit more down here as well. So the, and the reason I did that is because I'm gonna be hand sewing this and I do need that extra seam allowance that's called seam allowance and sewing. When you have a little bit of extra fabric, this edge here along the paper, that's gonna be where we're, that's gonna be our stitching line. Ok. So you should have four pieces that look like this and then you just can do a back stitch along the edge and I'll show you how to do that. You're gonna take your hand sewing needle and thread it and, and you're gonna put the thread through and then both ends of the thread can be knotted together. OK. So I right here, I have two layers or two strands of thread coming through my needle and I've knotted it here. Just do. You can just do like a little overhand knot or whatever kind of knot you want to do and do a couple of them all in one spot. So it's nice solid knot. Then you're going to put your pieces so that they are right sides together. So some fleece doesn't have a right side or a wrong side and it won't matter. But this fleece does. So I'm gonna place the right sides together and then I'm gonna start stitching along the edge of my beanie or of the edge of my lining. So I'm gonna be stitching from here to here. OK? And then I'm gonna repeat that on another group of two pieces. So I'm gonna start at the bottom and I'm gonna come in just about a quarter of an inch away from this bottom edge here like that and just pull and then I'm going to insert my needle on this side of where I came out and then I'm going to go past where my thread had come out. So if you think about this is in half steps and whole steps, we're going a half a step back and then we're gonna go a whole step forward. Ok? So there's a half step and then a half step. So there's our step forward and now we're going to go a half a step back in and then out a whole step forward from where your needle is going in like this. OK? Half a step back, whole step forward. And I'll show you what's happening on the backside here, half a step back and then a whole step forward. So we're getting longer stitches across the back. And what this does is it just keeps you from having gaps between your stitches. I find this to be a very, you know, I rely on this hand stitching method a lot. Um And this particular way of steaming things, it just seems very sturdy. It doesn't have a tendency to um show gaps between your stitches. I'll show you that in just a second. When I open this up, you can see right here. Even when I pull on it, there aren't holes between your stitches here. It looks good and these stitches you know, th this kind of just depends on how much patience you have smaller stitches are. You know, these are probably like, I don't know, an eighth, somewhere between an eighth and a quarter of an inch, um for each little half step here. So I'm going back and forward. And if you are, if you are left handed, please watch this with your screen mirrored because that will really help. And if you keep in mind when you're doing the back stitch your needle, if you are right handed, your needle is always going to be pointing to the left, no matter what it's always facing this way when it's going in and when it's coming out, it's always going that way. If you're left handed, it's always gonna be facing to your right. It's gonna look like a mirror image of what I'm doing here. OK. So you'll just continue sewing all the way up to the tip of um your lining pieces. Let me show you here on this example. So you'll stop just a little bit before the very end. So if you drew an imaginary line down from that little corner, that's about where you would stop. OK? And then when you stop, you're going to just take a couple little stitches in one spot like this, you'll just go two back stitches right on top of each other that makes it nice and sturdy. And then you can go ahead and tie that off. So this is how I do that. I just kind of go underneath and through the middle and put my thumb on there and make that knot. I'll do it again. So I'm t tucking my needle underneath and then placing my finger or thumb on top of that to kind of hold it in place. And then, um, because I just like to leave longer yarn or longer thread tails because I feel like your knots undue less. I just kind of weave my needle backwards a couple stitches and then I cut it off. That is not necessary. That's just something that I always do because as much as I can, because I just feel like when you cut your thread right by your knot, um, you not only will you have like these two little bits kind of sticking out. If you cut it too close, you not can undo and that's no good. Ok. So once you have two pieces or two, two sets of these stitched up, you can see here we've got one seam allowance or one seam line there, one seam line there, then you're gonna take these two pieces and you're gonna put them together. So I'm going to put them right sides together. So here's the bottom corner of my hat going up to the top. That's where all the seams are going to meet up right at the very top there and then back down. Oh, and I should have mentioned, you know, this fabric is very sticky, so it just kind of wants to stay. So I was not using any pins, but especially if you are newer to sewing, um, or if you're brand new to sewing, definitely put these pins in. That's gonna help you hold your fabric before you stitch it. And when you put a pin in, you're, you're, it's like you're sewing with a pin, you kind of go in and out and in and out like that. And that kind of holds your pin in place. It'll hold those two pieces in place. So you're going to go ahead and pin these two layers together all the way across the top and down to the other side. And you're gonna use the same back stitching method. You're gonna start here at the bottom and you're gonna stitch all the way across the top and back down to the bottom on the other side. OK? With the same exact stitch, same back stitch method, which will look like this. So here we are. So all of our seam lines here. So now we have um a lining that's all ready to go into our hat. So this hat, so this lining, this is a very drap because this has all the spandex in it and it's kind of slippery. It's not as, um not quite as stiff as most of the other fleeces that I've worked with. Um I'm, I think that this lining might kind of fall out of the hat when I'm not wearing it. Like if I pull the hat off my head and this lining is inside my hat, I think that the, the, that this might just kind of drop out and fall out of there. So because of that, I'm going to tack the top of the hat to the inside center of my crocheted hat. So this is, this is the inside, very top of my hat. And then this is, you know, the, the side, but the seams on it, I'm gonna just kind of stitch that real quick. Just do a little whip stitch just to kind of get it to stay up in the top of the hat. That's all. Normally you will not need to do this. Um, you can just skip the step for most fleeces. You know, you can just kind of decide that on your own. If you think the hat's gonna, the lining is gonna pull out of there. It's not a big deal. You can always just shove the lining back up inside the hat, but it might just be annoying if you're taking it on and putting it off and you always feel like you have to get the lining kind of, um, kind of situate the lining. It's gonna be annoying. Ok. So I just, I just have like a double strand of regular sewing thread and I'm just gonna be taking a couple of stitches here. I'm just stitching through the lining. Um, just the lining into the hat. But the seam allowance of the lining, I should say. So, I'm just stitching through that little seam allowance and making some stitches and making sure that they get down into like this crocheted section right here where it's kind of all comes together. So I'll just take a few stitches here like that and then we're gonna make those nuts and just cut that off. All right. So now the two tops are stuck to each other. Ok. So we have the wrong side of the lining and the wrong side of the hat and they've been tacked to each other in the top of the hat and then I can go ahead and turn this hat. So it is right side out and I'm gonna place my hands in here to just sort of get this, uh, kind of smoothed out on the inside and I'm gonna tuck the, the lining up inside of the hat and probably, um, you could cut off a little bit of this, but since you hand stitched through it, you would have to kind of backpack here, uh, just to make that extra sturdy. So if you're gonna snip through your snip through your thread, it's not gonna undo. Um, so that, for that reason, I'm just gonna be folding up a little, this is a little bit more of a turn under than I would normally do, this is a little more than a half of an inch and normally I would not recommend more than like a quarter of an inch going up in there. But this is a really bulky hat so that I'm not worried about it. So I'm just pinning that folded edge into my hat. Another option that you have here too is to not turn under your fabric. You can just cut it off and do a whip stitch over the edge. That's actually what I did here. Um, when I hand sewed that edge of the fleece, it's not gonna rabble because it's a knit and it's gonna be fine. Um, but I just did a whip stitch over the edge and that keeps it very, very flat. It's not gonna add any bulk. Um, this looks maybe a little bit nicer to turn that edge under, but you are gonna be adding a little bit of extra bulk here to your hat with that extra layer that's turned under on the inside there. So we're going to pin that in place and then we can hand sew this into place here and before you sew it in, I mean, when you make your lining and you get it all stitched up, you can certainly try that on your head or whoever is gonna be wearing the hat. Um, just to make sure that the lining feels good before you actually stitch it into your hat because you don't wanna, you do not want to find that out later, right? And Jealous says pretty, I'm guessing you're talking about the that um lining fabric that I chose with the flowers on it. It's so pretty. All right. OK. So I am just gonna do a little sample here to show you how you can stitch your lining in by hand and then we'll move on to the machine stitched piece just making some little knots there. OK. So to hand sew this in, um I like to just kind of come up from behind. I'm just going to slide my needle through just this layer of fabric and come out at the fold. OK. So right there. So now it's kind of anchored in place and I'm just gonna take a little stitch in through the crocheted fabric and then a little stitch in to the fold. I'm sliding my needle into that folded edge of that fabric there, the folded fleece. So we'll take a little stitch into the crochet fabric and then a little stitch into that folded edge of the fleece. And I would recommend especially if this is something where you're relying on your fleece to stretch a lot. Don't pull the super tight. OK? When you're making these stitches, you know, just don't really yank on it and make it super tight. Allow there to be a little bit of slack in your thread because when you pull on, you still want to be able to see a little bit of stretch here and not feel that thread, you know, um, being held taught. Ok. So you just take a little bite out of that crochet fabric and a little bite out of the fabric and you're just gonna work your way all the way around. Um, you'll probably need to re thread your needle a couple of times and tie off and bury those little tails into your fabric and that's totally fine. So, um, and then when you're done, your hat will look all nice and lined and when you put it on your head, it'll be nice and warm and soft and exactly how you want it to be and you can give it a little bit of a steam that actually kind of helps this lay a bit, a little bit flatter and it looks a little bit nicer. Um, so I, I would recommend that if you, if your fabric and, and your yarn can handle a little bit of steam just to kind of steam it above. Don't actually press it with your iron, but just kind of steam it. All right. So let's talk a little bit about this. Um, this machine stitched one. Ok. So we made ourselves a pattern piece and actually, I am not sure if this. No, I'm not. Oh, I think that was this pattern piece probably. Um And then, but before this, I prepped some pieces ahead of time just to make sure that I would have time to fit everything in. So I've already cut out four pieces in this pink fleece. This is what I'm gonna use to line this hat here. And this time I cut it out. This must not be the right pattern piece that I used. I used this one. Ok. So this time I cut out all four pieces without any seam allowance. No seam allowance here. And I think I left maybe a little bit. I just made that just a little tiny bit longer than I wanted it to be. So I could decide if I wanted to turn it under or if I wanna just stitch the edge to my hat. Um Either way. So think about that when you're cutting out your machine piece, but you definitely do not want any seam allowance on the two sides. Ok. So depending on how you're going to treat this edge, you may, may or may not want steam allowance there. Ok. So when you're sewing your pieces together, um And actually this is important for using a machine stitched version. Uh for doing the machine stitch version is you want to make some little marks on here so that it will match up as you're putting it through the machine. Um Because you are not, you cannot pin your pieces together, which I know might sound a little scary but it'll be fine. Um So I, what I'm doing now is I'm going to add some little, little notches to my pattern piece and then to my fabric and if you have a fabric marker or some kind of chalk or something like that, um, then you can use that to transfer to your pieces. And I just have, I just have this marker here. So I'm going to use that here is my notch. OK? So I'm gonna put a notch here and a notch here. And the way that I found out where I wanted to put that notch, I just want to have something sort of near the curve. You can have multiple notches, you can do like three on a side or four on a side. Um If you're worried about it, if you are someone who has sewn before you, you probably only need like the notches where I'm putting them. But if you're newer to sewing, it really would not hurt to add more notches along the side. And, and so when you, if you do that, you have to make sure that they're symmetrical from side to side like I did before you can fold it, make sure when you put your notches in that there's a notch here and right below it like so that they, um, they will be in the same place, uh Right. Just gonna use that piece to add my notches, there's one and there's another. OK. So when you are gonna stitch this, you can put your sewing machine on basically the widest zig zag that you can do. Um, just make sure your needle is not gonna hit the sides of your foot. Ok? So you can hand crank it if you're not sure. And then you are gonna start placing your pieces next to each other. Ok? So the points will be facing you and the bottom of the hat is what's gonna go through the machine first? Ok. So you're gonna place them right next to each other, straddle them underneath where you're gonna have your needle. So your needle is gonna go on in one piece and then it's gonna go because it's doing a zig zag. You're gonna go from one piece to the other, from one piece to the other back and forth between those two pieces and you can do a little backpack and as you go, just take your time and watch those marks because they should be next to each other. If you see one doing this or one doing that, you gotta, you have to straighten that out. So just kind of hold them next to each other and be looking at feeding those that little line between your pieces that should go right in the middle of your foot so that you're zig zagging from one side to the other, catching both pieces. And so those are now next to each other. So that's good. And as we go, you can see they're split open here, but you just keep bringing them a little bit together at a time. Don't try and do this right now because that makes it. You can't see what you're doing but you just move it together a little before it gets there. All right. Oh, it looks like I skipped a stitch there. I should really replace my needle. But you guys can see, um, you guys can see what's happening here is we're just butting those two pieces up next to each other and zigzagging back and forth and then maybe I should just replace my needle here. Let's see. Just so that you guys can see that there aren't holes between, between the stitches. It's like my needle is just a little dull. You don't need a special needle for this or anything. Just a universal needle should work fine. All right. Normally I don't do this, but I'm sewing a little bit further away from my machine here because of the angle of the camera. So I am actually just threading my, my needle first before I insert it here so that I could bring it closer to me. So in case you're wondering what is going on here, this is not how I would recommend you thread your needle. It should be in your machine first, but that just is gonna make it a little easier for me here. OK. So we'll do the next seam um, where we're gonna be putting two pieces together again, we're gonna be starting at the very bottom and we're gonna be stitching up towards the tip and we're gonna do a nice zig zag bringing those pieces together as you get to them. Alrighty. So that's better. Oh, I still am skipping a little. Well, um, I guess this fleece is a little bit of extra skippy and I should probably have brought other needles to try out but, but you can see where it's actually attached, you can pull on it really hard and there is no gapping between. And the reason that I really like using this method is because you can't even feel this on your head. There's no seam. There's like there's no seam bump, I should say, um, there's no excess seam allowance, nothing like that. All right. And so then to do the last seam, we're gonna, again, start at the very bottom like this and we're gonna place our pieces next to each other right in the center of the foot. I'm gonna make my width just a little less wide just to see if that helps with the skipping. And then we go ahead and zig zag matching the notch when we get to it. And now we're at that seam. So that should be matched up pretty well. And I'm just gonna kind of go back and forth just a little bit just to make sure I'm really catching that. And as we come down, we're gonna be like matching this notch here. So sorry about the skipping stitches. You guys that has never happened to me on these fleece pieces before. So I'm a little babbled as to why that's happening here. But I haven't used this exact piece of fleece before. I've used many, many other kinds of fleece and not had that problem. So hopefully that will not be happening to you, but there we go. Oh, and I should have mentioned to you that you should really be using um a matching thread. Of course, that'll make everything look much nicer, looks like I missed a little tiny bit. I didn't center that well enough right there. So I'm gonna go back over that a little bit. There's one little spot that I didn't quite catch right at the end. There we go. And if you, you know, if, once you catch that, it's surprisingly, very strong. If I was watching this and I had never seen this before, I would be skeptical. But I worked in a costume shop where we worked on full body costumes and we covered the outside of those costumes in fleece, similar to this fleece. Um And we use this method a lot for making like the outside skins on things. And you would not believe, you know, how much abuse those costumes go through, you know, when they have a dancer in them and um constantly being laundered and they are very, very sturdy. It is surprising. See right here, you can really see. That's got a lot of strength to it. It'll certainly hold up for, you know, your winter hat. So you've got all those pieces put together. It's very flat. Um, it's, it's quick to do. Um, so that's the reason that I really love this method, then we're going to place this, I'm gonna put the right side of the fleece. Like the side of the fleece I wanna see is gonna go to the inside here. Like, so that when I look on the inside of my hat, there's the side that I want to see and then I can just line up the top where all the pieces come together to the inside, top of my hat. And I just kind of use my hands in here to just sort of evenly distribute that fabric. I'm gonna fold this up out of the way and then you can choose if you want to do a little hand whip stitch to the edge of, you know, the edge of your fleece or if you wanna tuck under the edge and do a little hand stitching like that. Um, like I showed you on the last beanie that we worked on or if you wanna do a zig zag through your crocheted fabric and through your fleece. Now, if you've never stitched many, most people probably have not ever stitched through their crochet or their knitted fabric, you can definitely do this. Um, I do this a lot when I put linings in. It is kind of surprising, but you need to, I would say you should be like, probably not a beginner sewer. So that way you kind of have an idea of how that fabric is gonna go through your machine. So I'm gonna show you, um, what that looks like. Otherwise, if you're a little concerned about it, definitely just do like a little hand stitching, um, you know, around the edge or tuck it under and do that slip, stitching. Like how I showed you on the last, on the last beanie there. So I'm gonna pin this into place. So that way I can know that it's being evenly distributed into the hat. And I would definitely not, I would not recommend sewing through your fabric with your sewing machine. If you do not have a brim, that's gonna cover it up. The reason I'm doing it on this hat is because I can because it's going to be completely hidden and you'll see what it looks like. It doesn't look bad, but it does leave a little bit of an indentation, um, which you would not get for if you were gonna hand sew it. So I am just gonna place this underneath. You have to be nice and gentle with your hat because those feed dogs are kind of rough and they might, you know, kind of stick on your yarn a little bit. So that's something to be aware of all right. So I'm gonna leave it on a wide zig and I'm gonna be zigging to the side of my fleece and back on the fleece and to the side of my fleece and back on the fleece all the way around. And I would put this on a very, actually, I'm going to move this to a longer length here. We want that to be a pretty long length so that it, we, we're not making a bunch of little tiny stitches because that has a tendency to want to stretch out your, your edge there. I mean, we don't want to do that. And this is something if you're a little concerned about this, if you're like, Brenda, what are you doing? I would make a little swatch and stitch a piece of fleece to your swatch just so that you can kind of test it out with your sewing machine and see if you think that's gonna work, um, with your set up and all that kind of stuff. I do this all the time and it is so much faster than hand sewing it. So that's why I wanted to show it to you guys today for those of you who are sewers and you're wondering if there's a quicker way to get it, you know, um, to put the fleece into the hat. This is definitely fast. Um, but, you know, you do have to be kind of mindful of like that crocheted fabric. You don't want it to get snagged or, or anything. And you can see, I keep repositioning things like this, flipping things around a little bit like this. I'm always checking to make sure this is really flat. There aren't any lumps and nothing is twisted off to the side or anything like that when I'm putting it underneath the machine. Oh, looks like my throat is shredding a little bit there. Oh, I just now realized that I, um, ok, so here's a little story about me. I like to do things the quick way sometimes. And I was sewing a patch onto another hat that I crocheted and the patch had like sticky sizing on the back of it. And that is why my machine is kind of misbehaving right now. I should have cleaned it out. Um, but I had forgotten that I had done that last week. So, anyway, um, well, let me just show you what this looks like. I don't need to finish it. But you can see there's just a zigzag here along that edge. If I had done it in pink, it would look much nicer. Um, and on the outside you can see there's that indentation right here that you can, well, maybe it's hard to see in the darker color, but there is a bit of an indentation here where I have stitched it through the, the hat. So if you were gonna put this set this into a hat and it didn't have something to cover that up like this brim that would fold up like this. I wouldn't do it because I feel like it's just not gonna look, it's just not gonna look very nice. Um, but if you have a brim that sits up over it and you want to do it the quicker way, you know, this is a very easy way to line your hat. It's easy to stitch it under, um, to stitch it to the inside here. You could also turn the edge of your fleece underneath like that and then just catch that, um, rolled edge as well. That looks a little tiny bit neater. But the extra bulk, it, you know, it does add that extra bulk there. So that's why I was just gonna do it flat this time. Um, because this is a rather thick fleece, but you can see it doesn't change the size of your hat. You know, it looks really nice. It just adds that little extra warmth in there. You can't, you know, there's not gonna be any wind blowing through the stitches anymore. So it's gonna be nice, nice and toasty. Um, and just like a nice looking interior of the hat. So it looks great. Um, let me just check in here. Oh, some Angelica is watching from the other side of the ocean from Europe and Austria. Oh, ok. In Austria? Ok. Awesome. Wow, cool. I love it when you guys tell me where you're watching from. It's always so interesting to me and it's so cool that now, you know, we can all get together and craft together and, and, and, and being a long distance apart is no longer a barrier. It is just really cool that can share ideas and learn things from each other, you know, from all the way across the world. So thank you for saying hi. Thank you guys so much for joining me. I hope this was helpful. Um I know for me lining hats is just a really nice skill to be able to have because that way it opens up possibilities of being able to use more open stitch patterns or use yarn that's warm but maybe not super soft on your forehead or, you know, just being able to be a super bundled up an extra, an extra layer of coziness. So I hope that it helps you guys out and I hope you guys have a warm and cozy winter. Thank you guys so much for watching. Bye everyone.