Thermal Mittens

Hello, everybody. Welcome to our live crochet event. My name is Brenda Katie Anderson and today we're gonna be making mittens. Um I love making mittens. I've made lots of different kinds of mittens and I'm always kinda keeping an eye out for stitch patterns that will make nice and warm mittens because I live in Minnesota and it's cold here. Um And these ones are great because the stitch keeps them warm. Um But they're still flexible and they're small enough to fit in your pocket. So, for me, these are like the perfect mittens um for right now. So, um please, if you have questions about what I am demonstrating today or if you have comments, if you just wanna say hello, please put that all in the chat and um I will get back to you during this event. Um I'm very excited that you guys are here. I'm always excited to teach crochet. Um And also another thing that I like is if you guys have ideas on future projects that you would like me to demonstrate or um you know, pa new patterns that you'd like me to whip up for you and demonstrate to you. Um I really love doing that kind of thing. So please put your suggestions in the comment box if you have any of those as well. So, all right. So today we're gonna be working out my pattern, the thermal bins and this is a free download. So go ahead and follow the link that should be in the chat um or in the description uh for the event. So go ahead and print that out. Um So that it helps so that you can follow along and make sure that, you know, you understand what I'm um what I'm going through as we are working up this mitten. So I'll be going through all the necessary steps um to make sure and you know, all the little tricky parts to make sure that you can go ahead and get your mittens done for this holiday season, right? All right. So, um the first thing we're gonna talk about is materials. That's where I usually start out. So, um you're gonna be needing some worsted weight yarn and let's see, depending on the size you're making. Oh, let's talk about sizes too. So these mittens I sized all the way from a child's medium which is uh the size right here. So child's medium in my pattern is really kind of around like age, ages 5 to 8. Um I did not make the pattern any smaller than that because I had some issues with the sizing for the thumb because the stitches are kind of wide here. But I know there's gonna be somebody out there who's really wanting to make some toddler mittens, they're gonna ask me about this. So I'm just gonna say, um, you can make the child mitten size but use maybe AD K weight and a smaller hook and then see if that's coming out to be the size that you want it to be. So that would be my suggestion for that. Um But they start out with the child's medium. This is ages about 5 to 8 and then they go all the way up through adult, extra large. Ok. So there'll be um a child large which is about ages 9 to 11, adult small, medium large and extra large. This is the extra large and this is the adult small. So just so you kind of have an idea. All right. So, um, oh yeah, so back to the yarn you're gonna need, you're gonna be needing about, let's see at anywhere between 100 and 70 yards to 235 yards depending on the size that you're working up. And if you are newer to working from a pattern, um I just want to point out a couple of things. So this, you know, if you've never done this before or work from a pattern before. Um, a lot of times in patterns, this is, this is very uh common. I should say this is in most patterns, if it's sized, it will tell you the size at the beginning. So for example, if we look at sizes here, this says size to fit child medium age five through eight. And then in parentheses, it lists all the other sizes from the smaller to large within um those parentheses there. So that is gonna correspond to the directions throughout. So for example, when we get to the material section, it's telling you you need approximately 100 and 70 then in parentheses, it said 100 and 88 202 108 215, 2, 35 yards, ok? So if you're trying to figure out which number corresponds to your size, you can look at where your size appears within the parentheses um or outside of the parentheses and compare that to where the number is listed here. So the size I'm gonna be making in this tutorial is the smallest size here. So that's the child medium size and then I'm going to be needing about 100 and 70 yards, ok? If I was making the adult small, that would be the second size within the parentheses. So that would be about 200 yards right here. Ok. So, and then that also that sort of system of um listing the numbers that also goes through the directions. So for example, just we're just gonna skip ahead for a second, we'll come back to the directions. But when you see something like ribbing chain nine and then in parentheses it says 10, 1111, 1213. So you would find your corresponding number depending on how it was listed within those sizes. Um Once again, so I just wanted to go through that just in case you guys are newer to working from a pattern. I know that that can be kind of confusing to see a whole bunch of numbers. So I wanted to sort that out for you right away. All right. So I'm going to be working up, like I said, the smallest size that is the child, medium size. Um I've got my yarn, it's the worst of weight. This is 100% wool. I love using wool for mittens because it's just so warm. Um And I generally prefer to use a non super wash because I feel like it kind of grips um the fibers next to it and it felt just a little bit with wear um as you're sledding or shoveling or whatever and it makes it even more. You can certainly use a super wash. If washing things in the washing machine is really important to you, then I would go in that direction or of course you can use an acrylic or some other blend. Um But I would steer clear of cottons. You just, you're just gonna need something that's soft and something that um because we're gonna be crocheting it a little bit tighter gauge. So you don't want to go with anything that's, um, too firm of a yarn. All right. So we've got the yarn. You need a hook. I'm going to be using an F, which is a 3.75 millimeter hook, um, which is a little bit smaller than I normally use for a worsted weight yarn. Ok. So, just to give you an idea, um, you will use whatever hook you need to, in order to get this, the gauge that I have listed in the pattern. Um So, you know, if you're working up the, the cuff and the cuff is turning out too large, you're gonna wanna go down a hook size from wherever you started. OK. So just to give you an idea. Um So yeah, so I'm gonna be using a 3.75 millimeter hook and you'll use whatever you need to, to get the gauge, you're gonna need a couple of stitch markers and um let's see, maybe four stitch markers and one of them should be a different color than the rest. So you can tell the difference. Um And then of course scissors and a yard needle just for weaving in your ends and that's it. Not a lot of materials here. OK. So looks like we've got some people joining us. Um Elizabeth saying hello to everybody from Virginia. Hi, Elizabeth and Carol is saying hi from Tip Tipperary. I hope I'm saying that right. Um Annette is saying Hi, from Long Island. Hi, Annette and Tracy. Hi, from Virginia. Hello, everybody. Thanks for popping in and saying hi. I appreciate that. All right. So let's get started. We are going to be, um, first working on the cuff, we're gonna start working on the cuff and that is made back and forth and turned rose and in this pattern I ta I talked just briefly about the gauge. Um, I like to check my gauge for this particular Mitten pattern as I go. So what that means is I make part of the cuff and then I measure it and check to see if it's the same me as I have listed in my gauge section. Ok? Because I'm a gauge cheater. I like to get out of doing my gauge swatch if possible, but I always kind of figure out the gauge as I'm working on something. So I have some hints in there. I do also list the gauge for the top section of the Mitten pattern. Um in case you want to just go ahead and do that. So you'll have to do that in the round because that's, that's the way we stitch it up. So that's the way you should swat your gauge. All right. So, um we're gonna start by chaining nine because I'm doing the smallest size that you can see here under ribbing, you'll be chaining a different amount amount for the larger size mittens here. So you're just going to place a slip knot on your hook. So, uh this is how I make my slip knot. I make a little kind of cursive e flip it over onto the yarn that's connected to the ball, put my hook underneath there and I pull that up. Ok. But make your slipknot however you're used to doing it. And then I am going to chain nine. So Now for row one, I'm going to be working in by starting in the bottom of the chain or the back bump. So here's a bunch of vs on the top of the chain, you can see that here. And if I roll that over, you can see all these little horizontal dashes. That's where I'm gonna be working my first row. So I'm gonna skip the first horizontal dash, which is right there and then I'm going to work underneath the second one and I'm going to do a half, double crochet. So a half, double crochet as you yarn over, insert yarn over, pull up a loop. Now you have three loops on your hook and you will yarn over and pull through three. That's the first half, double crochet of the rope. And if you're newer to crocheting, I would recommend putting a stitch marker right in the top of that stitch. So the top of the stitch is right here. It's not the loop that's on your hook, but it's the last loop that you made right before your hook. Um, because that's going to help you make sure that your edges are neat and tidy. So we're going to continue making half, double crochets into each of these back bumps all the way across. We yarn over, insert yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through three. Oh, we've got a whole bunch more. Hellos. Hi, everybody. Wow. Um, Debbie is saying hi from Pine. Um, and there's another Debbie. Oh, De Debbie is saying um, from Grove Mills, Pennsylvania. Oh, ok. Um Sh Shalyn or Shalyn is saying hello from Michigan. Hello, I go to Michigan often actually. Um, Melissa is saying hi from Kentucky. Annette is saying uh the weather on Long Island is quite nice today. Awesome. It actually snowed here. So this is making me feel very wintry and good about making mittens today. Stacey is saying good morning from Iowa. Weather is chilly and damp. 32 and cloudy. Ok. Uh Mary is saying hello from Maryland. These look nice and warm. They are. And Kendra is saying hello from Kansas City, Missouri. Hello, Kendra. Thanks everybody for popping in there. All right. So we're gonna continue making our half double crochets into the back bump. So we yarn over, insert, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through three, yarn over, insert. You aren't over, pull up a loop. You aren't over, pull through three. Ok. So you will have a total of eight if you worked up this size, um you will have more for the other sizes, but basically you'll have one less stitch, one less half, double crochet than your foundation chain because we're using up one chain kind of for that, the height of the side that's not gonna count as a stitch or anything. It's just for that original foundation chain. And now we're gonna be working across those eight stitches. So at the end of our row, we're gonna chain two. And I like to do these nice and tight because it makes the edge look a little better. Or you could try chaining one there instead of um chaining two if you'd prefer. And then we're gonna turn our work like we're turning a page in a book and then we're gonna make a yarn over and work a half, double crochet into the back loop. Now, let me show you, OK, let me show you where the back loop is here. OK? So here's our two turning chains we just did. Here's the stitch we're gonna be working into and normally we would work right here underneath both strands, but we're gonna skip this first one and we're gonna work right underneath that back back loop right there, just right there. And that's what creates the ribbing. It gives it a little extra stretch. Um You'll see once we get a little further. So we're gonna work half, double crochets into those back loops all the way across and you can see what's happening is we're leaving because we're leaving that front loop free. We're getting a nice ridge right there right in front of where we're making these stitches and that's what creates that kind of ribbed look. All right. And then we got to the last stitch which we had marked and then we're gonna chain two and turn. OK. And then we just would continue working in that back loop. So this was the front loop when we looked at it here before, but we turned it and now that's the back loop. So when, when you say to work in the back loop, it always just means the, the loop that's further away from you. It has nothing to do with what's on the right side of your work or what's on the wrong side of your work if that makes sense. Um It's just the loop that's further away from you as you're stitching. All right. So you would just continue working back and forth and back and forth. You're just making a long skinny rectangle um with uh for the cuff and let me show you what that looks like. After you finish working 20 rows for this size, it would be more rows that would be um 2022 22 22 24 rows. OK? Just depending on the, the other, you know what size you're making and your piece will look like this and the way that you can count your rows just really quickly um For I count them in twos, usually when I do half, double crochet through the back loop because it's really easy. You have this really uh predominant ridge right here. So this is the first row, this is the second row kind of going down into that valley. So 1234. OK. So th that's so you can count this, you know, group of group of rows here as 2468, 1012, 1416, 1820. OK. Because um both of these are part of that last group that I counted. OK. So that would be 19 and 20 just as a double check, your working loop should be kitty corner across from your beginning yarn tail if you've worked an even amount of rows. So I'm gonna put that back on my hook and we are going to chain one and we're gonna turn our work just like we're gonna work another row and then we're gonna take that foundation chain and we're gonna bring it up right in front of the last row that we worked. And now we are going to slip stitch um through both sets of loops across and we're only gonna be working into the back loop of each ridge or of each edge I should say. So here's our front, this is our foundation chain. So we're gonna put our hook underneath, just the back loop there and then just the back loop here of our piece behind. We're gonna yarn over, pull through both those loops and pull through the loop on our hook. Ok. So this is seaming it closed into a tube. So I'm just putting my hook through the back loop there. The back loop there yarn over, pull up loop and pull through the loop on our hook just like that. All right, we get this all seam up. You could, you could, you know, hand stitch the shut. But the thing I love about this besides not having to sew it because it's nice and quick is that your hook is already going to be ready to go when you start working around the top of your cuff. Um because we're gonna now work from this section up to the top of the mitten. So after we've done our slip stitch seam, we are going to turn that slip stitch seam to the inside. So we're just gonna turn that like this. So now we have, this is the right side of our work that's facing us and the right side of our work will be facing us for the rest of the time because we're gonna be working in the round at this point. All righty, looks like we've got a couple more hellos. Um J is saying good morning from eastern Washington State and Michelle saying hi from Tucson and Julie is saying hello from Alabama. Um, Jackie or Jack Booth is saying hello from Georgetown, Texas. Beth is saying good morning from East Tennessee. Renee is a great day from British Columbia, Canada. Wow, I'm so happy you guys are all here. Um, ok, so now we are going to begin working around the top edge of our ribbing here. So in order to do that, we just to help us distribute our stitches because anytime you're working into the edges of your rose, there isn't really a specific spot. Unless a designer tells you, you know that there's a specific spot, there isn't really a specific spot to put your hook. You know, it's not like, you know, you know, if you're working in rounds, you, you can see the stitch from the round below and you put your hook there. So in order to know that we're spacing our stitches correctly around, we are going to divide this into four sections. OK? So I've got my working loop here, I'm gonna place a stitch marker over here. OK? So we've got this is now divided into, into halves, but we want it divided into quarters. So now we're gonna fold it this way and match up our working loop with the stitch marker that I just placed and we're gonna put a stitch marker here and here and then that's going to be divided into four sections and then we can kind of keep track and make sure that we're getting the proper amount of stitches all the way around. Um We don't end up with too many stitches on the, the front of the mitten and not enough on the back because that would just make it look kind of pucky. All right. So now, now we're gonna begin working for my size here. Let me actually let me just show you this because this might be need a little bit of explanation here. OK? So here we are under the body of mid section. OK? So here again, because this is broken down, there's a whole bunch of numbers here. So you're gonna look at the only the number that pertains to the size you're making in each of these sets of parentheses. So I'm making the first size which is outside of the parentheses. So I'm gonna put six in the first section, six and second section, 6th and 3rd section and 06 in the, in the third section and six in the fourth section. OK? But for the other sizes you might be putting in a different amount, let's see, 678. Yep. So for there's at least one size where you're not gonna be putting the same amount of stitches between each set of markers. So just, you know, read through the whole thing and make sure that you see where to put all those stitches and really, as long as they're distributed pretty evenly, it doesn't really matter if there's um as long as there's the same amount of stitches at the end, here's your stitch count. Um It doesn't matter if you, you know, if your stitching gets a little bit past there and then you actually have more, one extra stitch here compared to over here. That's not really a big deal. You don't have to go through and undo that. Um, but this is just to help you kind of spread them out evenly. All right. So we're gonna do six in each section for my size. So I always like to make a stitch when I get to one of these nice ridges. I will put a stitch in the top of that ridge. So that will be my first stitch one two, three, four, five. And I'm gonna move this six. So there's the first section. Oops, there's another ridge. I'm gonna work into the top there. So there's six and now I'm gonna do six before this next marker here. One, two, three or five and six. All right. And then six more before the next marker. One, oops do that one again. 12, three, four, five and six. And then there's one more section here. One, two, three or, and then we'll do five and six. And here you can see that's where my yarn tail is. That is where we started. I'm gonna push that urine tail back behind so we don't have to look at it right now. There we go. So now we have pretty evenly spaced 24 stitches around for my size. You'll have more for the other sizes here. And we are gonna begin working in the round with the, the main stitch pattern, which in, in this pattern, I'm calling it the half, double crochet puff. Um It's not like really a full blown puff because there's not very much puffiness to it, but it's, and it's sort of like doing a half, double crochet decrease. Um You'll see. So in order to do this, we're going to yarn over and then we're gonna insert in our very first stitch that we made yarn over, pull up a loop. Now we have three loops just like a regular half, double crochet. Now we're going to yarn over again. Insert yarn over, pull up a loop and now we should have a total of five loops on our hook and then we're gonna yarn over and pull through all five. Ok. So we're just doing some extra yarn overs other. Otherwise it's pretty much the same as a regular half, double crochet. So let's do that a few more times. Yarn over, insert, you're an over, pull up, yarn over, insert, yarn over, pull up, you're an over, pull through five, you're an over insert, you're an over, pull up, you're an over insert, you're an over, pull up, you aren't over, pull through five. And as I'm doing this, I'll go a little faster here as I'm doing this. I am actually pulling up on these loops just a little more than I normally would. This is I'm elongating these loops just a little because that's what I do when I make a puff stitch because it makes it a lot easier to get your hook to go through. Um And that's one of those things that, you know, from person to person saying you pull up on it a little, it could be a little more for one person than another. So the height of your stitch might vary a little bit more than usual with this stitch pattern. Um But that's ok because you can alter the, the length of your mitten. Um And I did put notes in the pattern to help you with that in case you feel that that's necessary. All right. So we are just doing one of these half, double crochet puffs into each of those single crochets that we just made all the way around here. So, if you checked your, um, if you checked your gauge for your cuff and that was right, the rest of your mitten should probably be fine, but it is a good idea to just kind of keep monitoring what your mitten looks like, making sure that it looks like, you know, it should, it shouldn't be pulling in here. It should, it should be about the same circumference or a little bigger than the circumference of your ribbing. You know, it's good to just kind of keep an eye on things to double check. All right, we are almost all the way around here. Just a couple more of those half, double crochet puffs. All right. So there is our very first half, double crochet puff right there. Um And on our next round, this is where I think some people might get a little confused and I want to be really careful to explain this because this stitch pattern um as you're making these stitches, you can see, for example, here's the puff and then the top of the stitches over here to the right compared to the post of the stitch because the stitch is so the top is so far off to the right compared to the post even more. So compared to, I mean, most of most crochet stitches actually do that. But because this one is quite a bit further over, it's gonna make all of your stitches start stacking up and the beginning of your round is going to start moving around your mitten. So in order to counteract that I have you on almost every single round, just do one stitch and then you will not count that as a stitch on the following stitch that is gonna become the new beginning of the round. So I'm gonna show you if that didn't make any sense. That's OK. I'm gonna show you what I mean. So here we are the soapy round three. of the body of the mitt and we are gonna do a half, double crochet puff in the next stitch. So that's right here. So that's, that was the first stitch of the last round right there. So that normally that would still be the first stitch of this round, right? But we're just gonna do a stitch there and then forget about it and then we're gonna move on to the next stitch and make a half, double crochet puff there. And that is going to get marked that is going to become the new beginning of the round. OK. So we're always just doing like one extra little stitch after we've completed the round, we do one extra stitch and then the following stitch becomes the new beginnings of the round. So we're just shifting it over one stitch about every round. All right. So let me read through these directions here. So round number three, half, double crochet puff in the next stitch. Um We've already moved the stitch marker. Um And now we're going to do half double crochet puff into the next 11 stitches. So that first one that I marked, that was the first one of those 11. So one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, 10 and 11. So the next stitch after that, so you'll have a different amount depending on the size you're working on. Um the next stitch after that, we're gonna do two, half, double crochet puffs in. So there's the first one and then we're gonna do a second one right in the same spot just like that. Then we're gonna do a regular half, double crochet puff into the next stitch and then two, half, double crochet puffs into the following stitch, one and two into the very same spot. Then we are going to make half double crochet puffs in the next 10 stitches or, you know, just until the end of your round and that will be a different amount of stitches depending on the size you're working up. Of course. So this little um area where we're going to be increasing, that is gonna create the thumb gusset that's going to make it a little wider so that it fits her hands and we're gonna be pretty much stacking up our increases, although we have to shift our stitches over every round. So again, and this is all written in the pattern. So don't worry if you want to read it for a refresher when you get to the end of your round, this would be the first stitch of your next round normally. So we're gonna take that stitch marker out. We're gonna work a half, double crochet puff stitch there and we're gonna pretend we didn't do that. The next stitch is gonna count as the new beginnings of the round. So on this round, we're gonna be doing um 12 s half, double crochet puffs and then we're gonna do our increase. So that'll be one to three, four, five six, seven. Looks like we've got a couple of questions. I'll just answer those in a minute here. Eight, nine, 10, 11, 12. Ok. It says Debbie is saying when going across the top, should you always pick up two strands of yarn or is one? Ok. So she, what she is talking about is when we do that first round of single crochet, stitches into the ends of our rows here. Like if we look at this, she's wondering if we have to go underneath two strands of yarn or if one is OK. Um I would say for the most part, I like to go under two, but sometimes one is OK. And if you do the stitch and move on to the next stitch and look back at it and there's no hole there, then it's fine. You don't need to worry about it. Um It's kind of one of those things where you just put your hook in there and look at it and you'll kind of get a feel for whether you can get away with going under one strand. It's really best if you can go under two, but sometimes that ends up making a bigger hole, just depends on exactly where you're putting your hook. So just kind of do that by feel it is OK to go under one. You know, that's, it's not gonna rip. There's a lot of um, lots of stitches next to it. So, I don't think you have to worry about it stretching out or anything like that. I've never had a problem with that. It's just if it creates a big hole, then, you know, you're gonna back up your hook, pull that stitch out and then try it again with, um, another strand underneath it. And Karen is wondering when you insert for the double crochet puff. Are you going into the same stitch the two times to get the five loops on the hook? Yes. Yes. It's basically like you're just getting five loops on your hook um in the one stitch and then you're doing your last yarn over and pulling through. So let me show you that. So this, this um I have completed my 12 half double crochet puffs and now I'm at the increases and you'll notice here's where I did my last increase right here. And then there's the one stitch that we did without the increase. And then there's another increase over here when we make our next increase because we shifted everything over by one stitch because everything we're kind of counteracting the twisting that's happening. We are going to be making our next increase into that one stitch that's between the two increases. So you don't have to know that you could just, you know, look at your directions and follow your directions, but sometimes it helps to be able to read your stitches to know if you're putting things in the right place. All right. So we're gonna do our increase here into that one. half, double crochet puff stitch. So we're gonna yarn over insert and we're putting that in this loop here, yarn over, pull up, yarn over and then insert in the same place, yarn over, pull up. So we've got all five loops, we're gonna yarn over and pull through all five. OK. We're gonna do another increase there. You're an over insert. This is all into that very same, same stitch. You're an over pull up, you're an over insert, you're an over pull up. There's five loops on your hook, you're an over pull through all five. So now you can see there's two little puffs kind of angling into that one stitch. And the following stitch is not an increase. It's just a regular half, double crochet puff. The next stitch will be an increase. So that means we are doing two, half, double crochet puffs into the same stitch just like that. OK. So, and then I'll do maybe just one more stitch and then I'll show you what this is looking like. So you can see what's happening here when I fold this flat, you can see this is kind of veering out to the side. I mean, this has a li this is a little wider here than at the cuff and that's normal. It should be a little bit wider, but you can tell that there's some increases happening here that is creating the shaping of the thumb. So we would continue working a, a half, double crochet puff all the way to the end of the round. And then you'll do for this size, you would only do one more round with the increases here. And it'll tell you in the pattern exactly where those go for the other sizes. You would do more rounds and that's specified in the, in the pattern as well. So after you've worked your increases for the thumb gusset, so your increases, that just means you're putting two stitches into one stitch, then you're making one stitch into one stitch, then you're doing another two c two stitches into one stitch. OK? That's what I'm talking about when I mean, the increases. Um So after you've done all your increases, then you're gonna work one more round where you're just putting a half, double crochet, puff into each stitch around and let me show you what that looks like that is here. OK? So we've done this was our first round where we didn't increase and we increased 123 times here and then we did one more round um for every size you would end up doing another round where you're just working around. Um Even you're not doing any increases. OK? So that, that happens before we divide for the thumb. So now we are all all the way up to the section where we just um divide for the thumb where we basically are making the thumb hole. That was the last stitch that we did. And we are here on thumb hole round. So this is round seven for this size. It'll be 89, 1010 or 11, depending on what size you're working on. And we're going to do that thing where we shift over the beginning of our, our round. So we're gonna do a half double crochet puff here that was in our Mark stitch, our marked stitch. Ok. We're just gonna forget we did that. The next stitch is gonna be the new beginnings of the round. So we're gonna um half double crochet puff and the next 11 stitches for this size. So we're gonna go ahead and mark that first of the 11 one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, 10 and Let's see. Looks like, oh Sh um Shaleen was wondering if we uh by attending today, if we will receive access to the recording, this will always be up so you guys can always watch this. You can go back. Um You know, it's, it's really nice when you watch it all the way through, you kind of get a good idea of what's going on, but then you can go back and watch little parts over and over um to make sure that you get what you're supposed to do. So that will be accessible for everyone. Um It'll always be up. OK. So we've done our 11 now we're gonna skip eight stitches. So we're gonna skip and, and actually the very first stitch that you skip, which will be this one right here. We're gonna put a stitch marker in that first skipped stitch. OK? So that's gonna be the 1st 11234567 and eight. I find that it's easiest just to count these little vs on the top. So you don't get confused. So 1234567 and eight, there's the next stitch. Um If you are, if you're a little newer to crochet and you could go ahead and mark that. Um I'm just gonna bring it right over here next to where my working loop is. You gotta kind of fold that and now we are going to work a half, double crochet puff right into that stitch. OK? And you, you wanna make sure you do this tightly so this isn't stretching. You don't wanna let that loop stretch out. Um because that's gonna cause a hole there. Um or a larger hole, I should say we are actually going to end up with a little hole. We have to sew shut but I'll show you that later. Um 12345678. We're skipping eight and we're gonna make a half double crochet puff into the ninth stitch. Ok. So pull that nice and tight I've got a little, lot of tension on my finger here just like that. Ok. So what we ended up doing, we just skipped a little section of stitches. That's where we were doing our increases and that's gonna become our thumb hole. That's the magic of making mittens. I remember the first time that I ever did that. I was like what? It was just a big aha moment for me. Ok. So now we are going to continue working those half, double crochet puffs all the way to the end of the round. Yeah, I do. I end up, I, I design a lot of mittens and I have over the years gotten lots of questions about how in the world you skip those stitches because in a pattern, you just write, skip the next stitch, you know, so many stitches and then, you know, stitch into the following stitch. But you know, to keep things a little more streamlined, a little less cumbersome in patterns we don't usually go through and explain all the little techniques. You're just kind of assuming that people know that or people can kind of figure it out, but it isn't always that easy. Sometimes you can't quite wrap your brain around that you just bring the next stitch over, you know, you can fold your work and you just skip over it. All right. So we've made it to the end of our round. Um And then depending on the size you're making, you're gonna make a series of um rounds where you're just working one stitch into each stitch round, same stitch pattern, the half, double crochet puffs. You're just gonna go round and around and around um in a circle and don't worry about moving the stitch marker um because we're just gonna move the stitch marker at the end. So you just go around and around and follow. I would do only three rounds here. I would do rounds 89 and 10. So for other sizes, you would do more rounds here to make your mitten taller. So if you are feeling like it's not gonna be tall enough, you can add another round in there before we start shaping for the top. If you feel like it, you know, it's, it's getting too tall. You can certainly omit a round or so. Um to kind of shape the end of your mitten there. Uh Let's see. And I did list in case you need a little extra help that at that point after you've worked those rounds, finishing the mitten is going to add another. And then I wrote down the measurement, it's either an inch and a half or two inches to the top of your mitten. Ok. So you'll know when you try it on if you wanted it to be, you know, if you're like, whoa, that's turning out really long. Uh There's no way you know that when I do those two inches, it's gonna be way too long, then you'll kind of have an idea. All right. So let's see. And then this little paragraph down here is just saying at the end of your round, let me skip over to my next sample here. This, I have already worked those three extra rounds. So rounds 89 and 10 here and here is my, the red marker is where I ended up and you can see because I did not shift, you know, my stitch every round. Now I'm way over here instead of on the side. So I'm just gonna crochet my way over to the edge. All you need to do this whole paragraph is just exploding. You just fold your mitten flat and then you find the pinky edge, this folded edge, you know where your pinky finger finger would be and you just crochet your way over to that edge. So we're just gonna do, I think two stitches might be enough. It's probably going to be close to the amount of rounds that you worked or maybe possibly one less round or so. Um So that's probably good. I think I'll leave it there. So I ended up just working too, but you'll work whatever you need to, to get to that pinky edge. And now we're gonna start shaping the top of our mittens. So to do that, we are going to work half, double crochet two together, which is a half, double crochet decrease stitch and it is extremely similar to what we've been doing already. So it's nothing fancy. Um We are gonna start out by working that decreased stitch across in, into these two stitches here. So the next two stitches, so we're gonna yarn over, insert into the next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, then we're gonna yarn over, insert into the following stitch. You're an over, pull up a loop. So we've just worked into two stitches. Now we're gonna yarn over and pull through all five loops. So this is almost exactly the same thing that we've been doing except the first half of the loops, we pull up in one stitch in the second half of the loops. We pull up, excuse me in the second stitch. All right. Then for this size, we're gonna work in the next seven stitches. It'll be a different amount for a different size, excuse me. Sorry. All right. So here's, we're at 56 and seven and now we're gonna do another decrease over the next two stitches like that. And now we're gonna repeat that same sequence on the other side. Oops, there's our decrease and now we're gonna work seven stitches. All right. Let's see. We're at five six and seven and now we'll do one more decrease here like that and we've reached the end of our route. Excuse me. OK. So the next round we just make one half, double crochet puff into each stitch around and we are going to be shifting our marker once again. So I worked the first stitch. Now, the next stitch will be the beginning of our rounds here. All right. And we're just gonna continue working all the way around. Here. We go one stitch per stitch all the way around. Those half, double crochet. Puffs. OK. All right. There is our last stitch of the round and then the next round, we're going to be doing the decreases once again. So we will make a half, double crochet, I mean half, double crochet uh puff to shift around and then the following stitch will start out um the first stitch of the this round. So we, right now we are at round 13 for this size. So we're going, we already shifted our stitch. So we did a hap to crochet puff and the next one's gonna count as the first stitch of the round. So we're gonna start with a decrease and then we're gonna work across five this time and then do another decrease. All right. So here is our first decrease and then we'll do five hap, double crochet puffs, one, two, three, four, five. And now we're going to do a half, double crochet puff decrease. Actually, just a half, double crochet decrease. Sorry. So the same kind of decrease we've been doing this whole time. Sorry, I didn't mean to confuse you. So there's our decrease and then we're gonna do another decrease because we're going to repeat the same sequence. We just worked. There we go and then working across five of our regular hat crochet puff stitches. One thing that I wanted to mention when you're working these puff stitches, make sure that you're not placing your hook between these two stitches, which is down here. Let me show you the difference. So if, if we're working into the top of the stitch, we're just going underneath those top two loops. OK? Like this. And there is another little loop. If I spread these really um wide apart, you can see there's another loop here and it is easy to accidentally put your hook underneath that. And if you do that, if you're placing it down here, you're kind of, you have two strands on the top and one strand in the back. What happens then it's not too big of a deal, but it is going to spread your stitches apart. See how there's like that hole there now. So you might notice that. So go ahead and take that stitch out. If that's what's happening to, you just make sure that you're only inserting your hook underneath that, those top two loops there. OK? I think I'm back to normal now. Sorry, you guys had to live through all that strange dry coughing. OK? 1234 and five. And now we're going to do another decrease over here. So that will be the end of our round and I would, you know, I, I didn't, I didn't do this, but we should actually be marking the first stitch of our round every time because it can get really confusing. Um Especially with the shifting of that one stitch. It's a little bit hard to tell where you're at. So I would recommend always keeping that stitch marker in there for that first stitch of the round. OK. So let's see. Um See wolf pack is saying I am late to the live. Gosh, I want to make a thermal cow for Brenda. Forget the mittens. I actually don't even feel bad today. I just all of a sudden my sometimes when I talk too much, my throat gets dry. Thank you very much. So you're really sweet. Um Let's see, Aina Su is saying, hello y'all. Hello. Um Can someone in the studio take her a cup of hot tea? I'm OK. I, I don't even have a sore throat. It's just from talking. Um I'm all right. Ok. So now, um let's see, we are going to be doing I think the last round for this size. Ok. Um Yep. So round 14, we're going to be just doing exactly the same thing that we did. So we're gonna start by making that. Uh let's see that half double crochet puff right here. That, that is what was the first stitch of the round? Now, we're gonna forget that stitch and then we're gonna start with the next stitch for um the first stitch of our round, sorry if that was confusing. But that used to be our first stitch. We're gonna make a stitch to shift it and now we are going to begin the next round. So there's our first decrease and we're gonna do three of these half, double crochet puffs in the middle. So this will be a different amount depending on the size you're working on. So, you know, make sure that you're looking at that and then another decrease and now we're gonna be working across the back of the, the mitten there. And here we go. OK. And here's our, oops, I got a little too overzealous there. Here's our last decrease here. All right. And we've gotten all the way around to the front and now we are going to just, you know, you, you will have a different amount of these depending on what size you're making. So I just made the smallest size. So at this point, I'm gonna fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing um for the other sizes, all of the other sizes. Actually, you are gonna be doing one more round of the decreases before you fasten off. All right. So to fasten off, you can just slip stitch into that next stitch there and then cut your yarn and leave a bit of a yarn tail and you can just go ahead and pull that right through. OK. So now um actually I am going to show you how to weave this in. So it's not gonna be dangling off my work while I'm working on the thumb in the directions I have you work on the thumb next and then we do all the weaving in later. But I'm just gonna take care of this right now because I know it's gonna bug me um to finish off the top of your mitten, you are just gonna be whip stitching it closed. So you're just gonna be stitching across from one stitch, you know, at the corner. I just kind of go right through just the top loop of that one, but you can go underneath both. It's fine, you can choose which way you want to do it. Um But then as I get a little further into the mitten on my next stitch, I'm gonna go underneath both just to make it a little bit sturdier. So what I mean by both is I'm going under both loops here and both loops here and I'm doing just a regular whip stitch. So my needle is always just kind of pointing away from me. I'm pushing it through in that direction just to close off the top of the mitten here. OK. So we've closed, we've seam that up. Um I like to go back and forth in a couple of directions because it just makes it a little bit of a sturdier seam So I'm just gonna whip stitch right back to where it came from. And then you would go ahead and push that needle to the inside, turn your mitten right side out or wrong side out and then weave in your end. So I am just gonna tuck that in there for now and I'll get to that later here. We come out over here and then I can cut it off and we'll have enough of a yarn tail that's not gonna get in my way. OK. So now we are going to go ahead and join. Oh, I should have mentioned that I took the stitch marker right out of that stitch. That's, that was the first stitch that we skipped and we are gonna go ahead and join our yarn for the thumb. All right. So I start, you can just pull up a loop in that stitch if you want. But I start here with a slip knot on my hook. I'm gonna go in to that very first stitch that we skipped yarn over. Pull up a loop and pull through that loop on my hook chip. Whoops here. Let me back up and do that again. There. It kind of got some, my yarn was splitting. OK. So we'll go through their yarn over, pull up a loop and pull through the loop on the hook. Then we are going to chain one to start. Now, none of that counts as a stitch that was just all kind of to anchor our, our yarn in place. Now, we are going to start by working those half, double crochet puffs all the way around into each stitch that we had skipped before. So we'll have eight stitches around for this size because we skipped eight stitches. So we're gonna yarn over, insert into that same stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, whoops, yarn over, insert into the same spot again, yarn over, pull up a loop. Now we have five stitches yarn over and pull through all five. All right. So we'll move on to the next stitch yarn over, insert, yarn over, pull up, you aren't over, insert, you're an over, pull up, you're an over pull through five. Um, ok. So we're gonna just continue working all the way around making a stitch into each of those stitches that we had skipped. We're still doing those half, double crochet puffs that are gonna keep our thumbs nice and warm. All right. And here is our last stitch that we had skipped. I'll just let you take a look at that. So there's our last puff. The stitch, the top of the stitch is slightly offset to the right. If you were a left-handed crochet, it would be the opposite. It would be slightly offset to the left. There is our last stitch and you might notice there is kind of a long ways to go here to get over there that's OK. We are going to um use our beginning yarn tail here to sew up that hole later. Um And we are just going to s you know, place our first stitch that we did right next to the last stitch we made and we're going to continue working around in a circle, making those puff stitches. So this is the next round here. So this would be um round number two, which is right there. One, two, oops lost my loop. Um OK. Three four, five, six, seven and eight. All right. So we've done two rounds for this size. We're only doing three. So I'm gonna go ahead and go around one more time and we are getting very close to the end of our tutorial. So if you guys have any additional questions, send them in and I will try and get those answers for you. Yeah. All right, a couple more stitches here and then I will show you how to finish this off. So, because these stitches are kind of tall, sometimes I had to choose between, you know, adding one more round and that might make it too tall or not, you know, leaving it at what it was and it was not quite tall enough if that's happening to you and you wish that you could do something halfway in between because at this point, you can add another round or you can subtract around just to kind of customize the thumb if you're like, oh, this is the, it's too tall. If I add another round, it's too long. If I don't add another round, it's a little short. You could go around with one round of single crochet, stitches here at this point before cinching in the top. I just wanted to let you know that that is an option, you know, to think about because that would be a little bit of a shorter stitch and it would be a nice happy medium. So I just did a slip stitch into my next stitch. Then I'm gonna cut my yarn, I'm gonna pull that right through and then I'm going to thread that onto my yarn needle and I am going to cinch in the top of my thumb by just running my yarn needle through that front loop of each of those stitches that remain. So you could, you can also run this underneath both loops of um each stitch if you wanted to. Um I usually do it under one because I can pull that nice and tight but pulling it. Um If you are able to get it under both and pull it um tight enough and you, and it doesn't leave a little gap in the middle, that's great. Then that's a little extra sturdy. All right. So I've woven that through the front loop of each of the remaining stitches and then I'm just gonna pull that tight and that closes the top of my thumb and then I am going to go ahead and weave in my ends here. OK? I'm just running it through the same loops and then I can go ahead and weave in that end. And then the last thing that I'm gonna do besides, you know, finishing it up and blocking it and everything is I'm going to sew this little whole shut. So in order to do that, you can go ahead and you know, if you've got your beginning, yarn tail, if you didn't leave a long enough one, you can just add a strand of yarn here and you're just gonna go straight across over here um to weave in to kind of sew that clothes. So I'm just grabbing a little loop from each side of the seam. It's basically like you're just making a little seam in the thumb and sometimes in my patterns, I will, um sometimes in my patterns, I will actually have you crochet across that open gap and then I will do some decreases later. Um You can go ahead and try that. I did that for this pattern and I didn't really like how it looked because I felt like it was kind of too bulky and I opted for this option where you just kind of sew that little hole, that little gap shut. Um I usually end up having to sew a little something shut here. Anyway, usually admittance, there's usually a little bit of a gap at that point. But if you sew it back and forth like that, then it looks good and then you can go ahead and weave in your ends and block your mittens and it looks like I've got everything answered and I just wanna say thank you guys so much for joining me today. I really appreciate you being here and showing up in the comments section. That's really awesome. Um And riding it out through my little coughing fit. I'm sorry about that. Um And if you guys have a little bit of time in about a half an hour, I'm gonna be back with a bunch, a whole bunch of ideas for Christmas gifts or other holiday gifts um coming up soon, so hopefully I'll see you at that too. All right. Thank you guys so much. Bye.