Woodland Beanie

Welcome, welcome everybody to our live crochet event. I'm Brenda KB Anderson and I am very excited today to show you my newest design. It's the Woodland beanie. So it's a very nice stretchy warm kind of all purpose hat. Um This looks great on lots of different kind of, you know, people, different size heads, um different tastes and clothing. Um It's just a good kind of um basic beanie um with a little something extra because it's got this nice folded brim and this really beautiful texture. And so this is actually that I designed this as a companion piece for the Woodland mitts. They've been really popular. They're um fingerless mittens that I designed, I think maybe even like a year and a half ago. It was a while ago. Um but people keep making them and I thought, well, maybe we should have a set because I don't know, I just really, really love the stitch pattern and uh a couple of people had asked me um to make a hat version of those mitts too. So here it is. All right. Well, I'm so glad that you guys are here. Thank you so much for joining me. Um, I always love it when you guys are active in the chat and then you say hello or you tell me where you're crocheting from or you ask questions. Certainly, if, um, I'm going through anything in my project that is confusing or if you just have random questions, that's great too. Um, but I am going to be walking you through all of the steps today on how to make your own woodland beanie. And there is a free pattern. Download the Woodland Beanie. You can find that link in the chat or in the description um and go ahead and download that you can do that now so you can follow along or you will have access to that later. No problem. You can just go back and get that if you just wanna watch this for now, but certainly ask me questions. Um You know, if there's anything that you guys are wondering or if you need me to go over something again. Um I just wanna make sure that I am being clear. All right. So let's talk a little bit about what we need here. So this beanie comes in, I think it's five sizes. Let me just double check here. 12345 sizes. Yep. So we have baby, which is this cute little version and when I say baby, I mean, like a little baby probably like maybe up to six months or so. Um But anything older than that. I would go with the toddler size. Probably. I always err on the side, uh, on the side of making a slightly larger hat because, you know, when they're growing because, you know, it'll fit eventually and you don't want to make a hat that's too small. But these, keeping, keeping in mind though, that these are pretty darn stretchy. So I do have a guideline in your pattern. I do, I tell you the sizes they're kind of aimed for. So baby toddler, child, adult and a large adult and then I tell you what the finished circumference is and they also tell you kind of how to choose your size. So you're gonna be um if you measure your head or, you know, the recipient's head and measure where you would wear your hat. So wherever the brim of, you know, the ribbed um section of your hat would be, and then you are going to make it either three or four inches depending on the size smaller than your head measures. And maybe that sounds crazy. Um But you really want this hat to be snug on your head, so it stays in place, you know, when you're going sledding or whatever you're doing in this, in this very warm hat. So you definitely want it to be smaller than your head measures, ok. Um And if you're in between sizes and you just cannot decide uh what I would recommend is go for the larger size. And as you're working on it, you can try it on before you finish your hat and see if you want to stop there. Because the cool thing about this hat is it is made vertically. So it's made, let me show you this one is mostly done. It is made basically as, um, a large rectangle and then you sew it into a tube and then we finish up the very top of the hat here. So what that means is when you're working back and forth and back and forth in these rows, in this direction, you can stop, um, at any point or you can add more rows if you need to in order to alter the fit of your hat. So, which is great because as you're working on it, as long as it's long enough, um, then you can make it to fit as you're going. Ok. So that just makes it a little bit easier. It takes a little bit of the pressure off, especially if your gauge isn't like dead on, you know, then you don't need to be so worried about it. So I always err on the side of, of going to the larger size of your, in between sizes because you could always fold this brim up just a little bit more and then you can stop a little earlier if you want to. Um, if you feel like, ok, that, that's, that's the perfect size, but one thing is, is if you are altering how many rows you're doing back and forth, I just wanna make sure that you're doing it in complete sets of four. It has a four row repeat. So I'll explain a little bit more about that as we're working on our hat. But just a heads up there, you can't just stop on any row and sew it together and, and have the pattern match up. That's, it's not gonna happen. All right. So you will need anywhere from, let's see, about 214 to 357 yards of a decay weight, which is the number three, which is a little bit thinner than like the most prevalent uh thickness of yarn that you find in the big box stores. So, if you think of the large skeins of acrylic yarn that you use for Afghans and that sort of thing in the big box stores here in the United States. Anyway, that is the most popular size as the number four here, it is a little thinner than that just to give you an idea. So it's called AD K weight and it is a number three. Um And then you will just need a couple of stitch markers and a crochet hook. And I am using uh an F which is a 3.75 millimeter hook, but you will use whatever size you need to in order to get the correct gauge OK. So the gauge is listed in your pattern here. It's listed, um, 23.5 stitches and 24 rows is four inches in the yarn over slip stitch back, loop ribbing pattern. Which if you're like, what, what is that? I don't know what that means. That's OK because I'm gonna be showing you all the stitches you need to know. Um, but basically you're gonna be making AAA square that is made with this stitch pattern here. Just a square worked back and forth in turn rows. So you can go ahead and chain like maybe like 26 stitches across and work back and forth in that yarn over slip stitch to the back loop, only stitch pattern, which I'll be showing you, um, until you get a, you know, a little over four inches and then just measure how many stitches are in four inches, ok? So, you know, get out your little ruler and measure across four inches, count your stitches, measure up four inches, count your rows and then compare it to what I have. If you are getting more stitches and rows in those four inches, then what that means is your tension is a little tighter. You need to go up a hook size. If you were getting fewer stitches, then you need to, then you need to crochet a little bit tighter. Um So then you're going to go down a hook size or two, you know. So the hook size thing. It's just one of those things as you get more comfortable with crochet and you start working on your gauge. You usually can look at someone's pattern and just, you know, you can start out with what they have or if you just know you're consistently having to go up hook sizes, maybe you just have to, maybe you start with something bigger than someone suggests and try it out. Ok. So that's just one of those, one of those things get engaged. All right. Oh, we've got some. Hello, Sue mcvicker is saying hello. Hi, Sue. Um great looking set. Thank you for sharing. Yes, I am very excited about these hats too. Thank you very much. Um And Stacey is saying good morning from Frozen North Iowa. Yeah, I'm in Minnesota and it is very cold here today. Um And Lee is saying good morning from East Texas, good morning, Lee and welcome. Ok. So we talked about our materials. You just need some yarn a couple of stitch markers. So I'm gonna be using these stitch markers. They, they have to be the kind that you can take, you know, remove, take in and out. Um And then your crochet hook and that's it all righty. So I am going to begin by showing you the smallest size. So you don't have to see, you know, so much repetition. Me making so many of the yarn over slip stitches in a row. Um But I will be explaining a little bit between the differences in making the different sizes because, um, one of the questions I get the most often when people are working from a pattern and they're, um, maybe a little bit newer to reading patterns is. They don't, um, they don't quite understand what all the parentheses are about in patterns. So I just want to show you that really quickly. Um When you take a look at a pattern, for example, here we have instructions, it says beanie chain 36 and then in parentheses, it says 44 52 61 and 70. So this is giving you instructions for all the different sizes and they are listed here in the size that they are um sorry, in the order that the sizes are listed here. So baby comes first and then toddler is the next set of information right? Inside those child, adult, adult large. Ok. So, so those numbers correspond to the different sizes and it'll be like that throughout the pattern. OK? So anytime you see those parentheses with a bunch of numbers in it, look for the number that pertains to your size and it will be listed in the same order that your sizes are listed in the front of the pattern. All right. So since we're making the smallest size, we are going to start with the beginning chain of 36 stitches. All right. So there's my slipknot on my hook and we're gonna create 36 stitches or 36 chains. Sorry 10 11. Whoops. 1213, 1415, 1617, 1819 2021. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 3031. 32. 33. 34. 35. 36. Ok. So now to begin with row 10, I wanted to mention two things quick before I forget this version of the download actually has two row ones which are exactly the same. You can see here, row one wrong side, row one wrong side, just get rid of one of those. They're exactly the same. It doesn't matter. Um, and I will get that fixed as soon as I can. I just didn't realize for some reason I didn't realize that there were two row ones, um, until this morning. The other thing that I wanted to mention, um, was that if you had downloaded this before today, if you had downloaded it, you know, yesterday or I'm not sure if it was up the day before, there were a couple of things that I had changed in the pattern that it already has been updated. So if you are downloading this, you know, at the time of this or at any point today, um, then your pattern is fine. It's the same version as mine. You just have to cross out row number one. Um, but if you downloaded it previously, I wanna let you know that some of the numbers have changed. I kind of reconfigured how I did some things, even if you followed it exactly as it is written, you will still get a hat that works out great and it'll look nice. But I did figure out one little trick that I could do in switching around some of the numbers so that all the sizes look the same as we're progressing through the hat. So it would be less confusing when you're watching this live. If you're making um any of the sizes that should look very similar. So, um I know that's a little bit confusing, but basically what I want to tell you is if, if you've already started your hat, it's still gonna work out. You can continue. You don't have to rip it out. But if you have not started your hat and you downloaded this pattern before today, then you should download a new co copy because it's just gonna make a little more sense with this tutorial here. Ok. So let's see. Oh, we got a lot more. Um, hellos, Debbie mcclune. Good morning from Pennsylvania. Hi, Debbie and Christy C. Good morning from Chile, Dallas, Texas. Looking forward to the new pattern. So fun. Thank you, Christy. And Darlene is saying hello from Grand Rapids, Michigan. And Mary is saying good evening from Italy. Wow. Well, welcome everybody. I'm so glad you guys are here. All right. So we're gonna start with row number one. So we're beginning with the wrong side. Um And later on when we get a little bit more fabric, you can go ahead and mark the right side if that helps. Uh But you'll be able to tell the difference as you get further in the pattern, you should be able to tell the difference between the right side and the wrong side. They're pretty different looking. So, um let's see. So we're gonna start with the second chain from the hook. We're gonna work into the bottom of the chain and we're gonna make a slip stitch into the next stitch. OK? So here's the top of our chain has all those little VS, we roll it over. So the vs are touching the table and then you can see all those little horizontal dashes. That's where we're gonna work our first row of stitches. We're skipping that first horizontal dash, which is right there. That's just gonna be a turning chain and we're gonna place our hook underneath the second horizontal dash yarn over, pull up a loop and then pull through that loop on the hook to be our first slip stitch of the rope. Now, we are gonna go ahead and mark that stitch, um, especially if you are a new crochet or newer crochet or at least newer to the stitch pattern. Definitely mark the first and last stitch, stitches of the rose. And also there will be one other point that I will show you that I like to mark as well just to help me keep track of numbers. So I don't have to count stuff later. Ok. So we did the first slip stitch and then we are going to have double crochet in each of the next four stitches, slip stitch into the next four stitches. And then we are going to repeat that section within the brackets, either two or three or four times depending on what size you're working on. So we're just gonna do that two times because we're working on the smallest size. So we're gonna start with a half, double crochet. So that's a yarn over, insert, yarn over, pull up, loop, yarn over and pull through three. OK? We're gonna do that three more times. Insert or, or sorry yarn over, insert, yarn over, pull up yarn over, pull through three. That's the second half, double crochet, let's do two more. Third one, fourth one. And now we're gonna switch to doing four slip stitches. So we're still continuing to work into that back of the chain where those horizontal dashes are and we're doing four slip stitches. That's and four. Now we're gonna switch back, we're gonna repeat what's in the brackets. So we're gonna do four, half, double crochets, one, two, three and four. And then we're going to switch back to those slip stitches, four of those. So one, two, three and four. OK. So I have completed the amount of repeats. I'm only doing two repeats. You can see here's the taller stitches. Those are the half, double crochets and here's the slip stitches. So there's one repeat and two repeats because I'm doing the smallest size. So you'll have more for larger sizes. Um And then I wanna show you what happens next here. So after you repeat that, then it says half double crochet in each of the next 04040 stitches. So a lot of times I get questions about this, people get very confused when you say to crochet into zero stitches. They're like, what, why are you telling me to crochet into zero stitches? That doesn't make any sense. The only reason that it's written like that is because I am writing a pattern for all the sizes at once. So some of the sizes you're gonna crochet, you're gonna make half double crochets into the next four stitches and some of the sizes you're not gonna do anything at that point. So if it says crochet into zero stitches, you just skip over that little part of the information. You don't, you don't have to do anything. You're not crocheting anything because you're, there's zero stitches. OK? So then after that, um then you're gonna yarn over slip stitch into each of the next. And then for me, I'm doing 18 stitches for the other sizes you might be doing up to 36 stitches. OK? But basically you're doing a yarn over slip stitch all the way across the rest of your chain. Let me show you how to do that. So the yarn over slips stitch, you start with a yarn over and then you insert your hook underneath your bottom, bump there, back back of the chain, then you're gonna yarn over and you're gonna pull up a loop. So this is just like a half, double crochet so far. But this is the distinction instead of making another yarn over to draw through, that would be a regular half, double crochet. Instead of doing that, you are just gonna continue pulling that last loop you made through those two loops on your hook. OK? So we're gonna do that again. So yarn over insert, yarn over, pull up a loop and pull through two. Just keep, keep pulling that loop through. OK? So yarn over, insert, yarn over, pull up a loop and pull through two. You're an over insert, you're an over, pull up a loop, you're an over and pull or no. Sorry. No, you aren't over there. I was telling you I have double crochet. Let's do that again. Just to erase that last thing I said from your memory. OK? You're an over insert. You aren't over, pull up a loop and pull through two. So one thing that I think, I think when people are working on the stitch pattern. When you're first learning how to do it, sometimes it ends up getting, it feels awkward to go through that um, this loop right here and sometimes it can get a little bit tight because of that. So, one thing that I like to do is I pinch here at the base of where my, um this loop is and where this loop I just made, I just kind of pinch there with my thumb and my finger. And that way, I'm able to pull up with my hook and stretch out those loops a little more so that I can get my hook through a little bit easier. Let me show you that again. So we're gonna grab that loop and then, then I pinch here and then pull through those two stitches or sorry through those two loops. So my fingers are always kind of hopping back and forth. They grab on. I didn't even really realize that I was doing this. Um until uh I, I, well, OK, so I love the stitch pattern and I've been using the stitch pattern quite a bit um in the last couple of years and I did not realize that my fingers would hop up and grab on to that until I started getting questions about, well, why, why I have such a hard time doing that stitch? I feel like it's so awkward and I kept thinking, why is it so awkward? And so I was trying to do it. And I thought, ok, here I am hopping up and grabbing, pinching that little area so that I could get my hook through and I didn't even realize I was doing that. So that's one thing about, you know, teaching other people how to crochet is you really have to slow down and look at what you're doing because sometimes you do things without even realizing it and it really helps to be able to tell other people all the little tricks and tips. Ok. Um, oh, looks like we've got some more hellos to Neil saying hello from Clarksville, Tennessee. Hello. Uh, Nancy is saying good morning from Vancouver British Columbia. I love learning to crochet from you. This is a great project. Thank you, Nancy. Um, and Marlena is saying good morning from Tennessee. And we have Tony saying good morning from Illinois. Hi, you guys. All right. So we made it to the end of our row. That's row one. Ok. Remember cross out one of those row ones. We only need one row one here and we're gonna go to row two. So we are gonna start out our row by chaining one and then we're gonna turn our work. So just like you're turning in a very long skinny page in a book and then we're going to uh yarn over a slip stitch through the back loop into each of the next 18 stitches. Oh, you guys, I forgot to place my stitch marker. So I meant to tell you we'll do it on this next row. But I meant to tell you the very first stitch that you make, that's a yarn over slip stitch place a stitch marker in there in the top of that stitch because that will help you when you're coming back across to know when to switch back and forth because you're basically switching between the ribbing stitch pattern and then the other stitch pattern, that kind of has all those cool waves, that sort of looks like cables, but it's secretly not cables. All right. So we did, I already did our turning chain and we're gonna turn our work and then we're gonna do those yarn over slip stitches. But this time instead of doing it underneath um both loops, how we would normally crochet. Normally, we would put our hook right here. Ok. So, because we're skipping the turning chain, normally, we would put our hook right here, but we are gonna place our hook underneath that back loop, which is just right there. Ok? So we're gonna go over, insert through the back loop. You're an over, pull up a loop and pull through two. So that's the very first stitch of row number two. And then we're gonna continue that. So yarn over, insert through the back loop, you're an over, pull up loop, pinch and pull through two. I always think about it that way. Now that I've realized I'm pinching, pinch and pull through two. And it helps me when I say that so that I don't accidentally yarn over there because my body wants to make a half, double crochet sometimes, but we don't want to do that. All right. So we're just gonna continue working these yarn over slip, stitches through that back loop all the way across until we've, um, worked 18 of those for this size. And I'm gonna count them up in just a minute here. But basically the, the point where you switch to the other stitch pattern is right around the halfway point along here and it'll get a lot more obvious. I mean, it'll get super more obvious when we put our stitch marker in there. But also it'll be a lot more clear. Um As you get a couple of rows worked, you'll just be ready for that change for that stitch pattern change. OK. Let's see here. And it'll get a lot less awkward. It's so it's always so hard for the first couple of rows to hang on to things. So 123456789, 1011, 1213, 1415, 1617, 1 more and 18. OK. So I'm placing that stitch marker here in the last yarn over slip stitch um that I had done in row two. OK. And now I'm gonna ss um switch back to the other stitch pattern. So here we are, we've already worked our s um yarn over slip stitches, then we're gonna slip stitch back loop into each of the next four stitches, zero stitches, four stitches, zero stitches, four stitches. Ok. So my, um, my instructions are right in front of the parentheses. So I'm going to slip stitch through the back loop under the next four stitches. So don't do the yarn over. That's tempting also. So just do a slip stitch through that back loop. So and four and you know, like I mentioned before, for some of the sizes, you're gonna be working zero stitches there, meaning you just skip over that little part of the information. Um You don't need to do anything there. Then we're going to do a half, double crochet through the back loop into the next four stitches. So one, two, three and four and then we're gonna slip stitch into the next four stitches. and four. All right. And then we're going to have double crochet. Oh OK. So then at this point, you would do the a repeat of these eight stitches. OK. So you would have double crochet in the next four slip stitch into the next four. You would repeat that for however many more times you need to, we are only doing that once. So we're done for this size and then we are going to make four, half, double crochets into the next four stitches. So 123, four and we are still only working those into that back loop. OK. So actually everything from row number two on, uh no matter what size you're work side you're working on, it doesn't matter. You are always gonna be working into that back loop or just ignoring that front loop now. OK. So then we're gonna end with a slip stitch in the back loop into that very last stitch. OK. So we're always ending with a slip stitch here and we're always starting with a slip stitch and the slip stitches are always in that back loop only. OK? So we're gonna chain one, turn our work and remember what I just said, we're always start with a slip stitch through the back loop. So we're gonna do a slip stitch right there. This is the beginning of row three. All right. So we did our slip stitch, then we're going to slip stitch into the next four stitches and then half, double crochet into the next four stitches all worked into that back loop. OK? So, um, and this is gonna get easier. I'm gonna show you as we get a couple more rows in, I'm gonna show you a way that you know what to do next. So you don't have to keep looking at your instructions. Um It'll make a little bit more sense as we get a little bit further here. So we're gonna do four slip stitches, one, two, three, four slip stitches and then we're going to do four, half, double crochets. Now, you can see how it's wider, narrower, wider, narrower. So every other row. So on, let, let me say on all of the even numbered rows. So rows, number two, number four, everything after that, that's an even row. If you are, if you come up to a half, double crochet, stitch, you're going to place a half, double crochet, stitch into it. If you come up to a slip stitch, you're going to place a slip stitch into it. But on all the odd rows, you are doing the opposite of that. So, so for, except for this very first stitch, the first and last stitch, it's always a slip stitch in the back lip. So just know that then when you move on to doing your repeats because we had four, half, double crochets here. We made four slip stitches here because we're doing the opposite of what we had. Um And now we're going to do four, half, double crochets and it's going to kind of fill in that little dip that you can see there. So, one, two, three and four, we're still just working in that back loop and now we're gonna switch back to the slip stitches. One, two, three, four. And now we're going to switch to the half, double crochets here, one, two, three and four. Now we're at our marker. So we're gonna switch to the other stitch pattern. So we're gonna be doing yarn over slip stitches to that back loop only. All right. So yarn over insert, you're an over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two place your stitch marker back in there. Oh, Sue mcvicker is saying, I have to admit, I love the stitch pattern. And in haste this morning, I thought the photo was showing a knit hat. I love how the crochet has branched out over the years. Yes. This actually even the ribbing here, this looks so much like knitting, um, so much like a rib, like a rib stitch in knitting, like a one by one if it's stretched out a little bit. Um, but it feels a little bit more springy than that. It does. It has a little bit more um, elasticity like it wants to bounce back a little bit more than if I had knit this in a one by one rib here. And then this part with all these little vs that you see connected. I mean, it really does look like it looks a lot like knitting. You're right. Um And Jody is saying good morning from the Aloha State Hawaii. Oh, I agree with Sue. Looks like a look like a knit. Yep, it does. Ok. So we're gonna just, we're continuing along with our yarn over slip stitches and the, you know, these are not super tall stitches. They, they are a little taller than I, I think they're about the same height. Actually as a single crochet and with this number three yarn, it is going to take a little bit longer, you know, than with a thicker yarn. But I have to say, and it's just so comfortable and squishy and I really just wanted to change things up a little bit. I usually, I oftentimes stick to those number four yarns because I know, um, a lot of people like to have kind of quick, quick projects. You know, we're all busy with our lives and, um, you know, but every once in a while I like to throw a, a thinner, a thinner urine weight in there because, well, I love them and it's just really comfortable and it's not, you know, it's just a nice stretchy hat and it's plenty warm, even though it's a little bit thinner than those worsted weight, it's plenty warm, especially with that folded up brim. And this is a pretty dense, um, ribbing stitch pattern here that we're working up. It doesn't let a lot of the cold wind through. All right. So there is our last yarn over slip stitch. I'm going to chain one, turn my work and I'm going to start working that same yarn over slip stitch all the way up to my marker. So you just know every time you get to this bottom half of your hat where the ribbing is, you're just always going to be working those yarn over slip stitches through the back loop. That's all you're doing and then you're chaining one at the end and turning your work. And because you are going, you're not gonna be, um, working into those row ends. It's extra important that your row ends are, um, that you're really consistent when you turn your project. And what I mean by that is like when you get to the end do exactly the same motions every time, whether you are turning it first and then making your chain one because I know some people like to turn it first and then make a turning chain. Um Or if you do it the other way, you know, you can chain chain one first and then turn your work, but always turn your work in the same direction and always do, do it consistently regardless of which method you pick. Because if you do that and you make your last stitch, you know, make sure that it's not getting kind of long or loopy or stretched out, then you're gonna have a super neat and tidy edge there. Even though that, you know, it's the, the edge of your turn rose, it still looks really good. That's kind of the secret to that is if you, you know, just consistency. All right, we've made it to our marked stitch that is marking the last of those, the yarn over slip stitch pattern. And now we are working on, let's see, row three. So we have 12 and this is the third row. Oh, wait, no, this must be row four. Let me see. Yeah, row four. Sorry about that. All the even numbered rows are on the wrong, wrong side of your work. And so, you know, if you're working a wrong side, if you start with that slip, stitch, yarn over slip stitch ribbing first, you're working a wrong side. Row. Plus after I get a little bit further, I'll show you the difference between the right side and the wrong side of the stitch pattern and you'll just be able to recognize it too. All right. So row number four, we've already worked our yarn over slips stitch section. Then we are going to make a, a half, double crochet through the back loop in each of the next four stitches for my size. But for some of the sizes, you're not making any half, double crochets at that point and you're gonna jump right into this next instruction. OK? So if you have a zero there, you just skip over this and then you start working from this. But I have to work for half, double crochets here. So 123, four, and now we are going to switch to our slip stitches. So we're gonna do four of those. So one, two, three and four and switch back to those half, double crochets. So basically the gist of it, this section here is you are working four stitches in a row. So you're either doing four half, double crochets or you're doing four slip stitches and to know which is, which see did I get a little bit off here? Let me just double check. 2340, I'm missing a stitch somewhere. Hang on. Let me just count this up real quick. 123456789, 1011, 1213, 1415, 1617 18. I must have skipped a stitch somewhere. I think I must have skipped a stitch somewhere down here. So I'm gonna add an extra one in. Let me just double check. It feels like that's off by just a little bit. Ok, I'm gonna back that up a little bit. Hm. There it is. I missed it. Oh, maybe not. Ok. I'm not exactly sure where I missed my stitch but I could tell I was off because I was supposed to have five slip stitches in a row at the very end of this. Um so I, because I don't wanna rip this whole thing out. Um I probably would if I was making this at home and to rip out a row and then look at it, but I'm just going to add an extra stitch in here. So 1234 and I'm putting those half, double crochets back in here. That's where I skipped it. I see it. It's right there. I skipped it in a row below. Ok. I'm gonna add an extra half, double crochet in here. So I already have two, half, double crochets. So here's my little trick. So I'm going to combine this stitch with the next stitch by doing this. Going through that, those back loops. Yeah, I'm teaching you how to cheat right here. You guys pay attention. OK. Yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all three. So I just did a half, double crochet in both of those stitches linked together. But now that loop is a little smaller. So now I can make a half, double crochet right here. So I just basically added a stitch back in and now I'm going to do my four slip stitches and here we go, 12, three and four. And then we're gonna end with one more slip stitch. So that means five, five slip stitches at the end of row four. OK? All right. So now you can see this is where the half, double crochets are slip stitches. Are there half, double crochets here, slip stitches are there. So then we just chain one and turn. And the next row is really a repeat of row number one. Except that we are working it through the back loop only. That's the only difference between row number five and row number one. So we're gonna start out with that slip stitch that we always do into the very first stitch. So there's our slip stitch through the back loop only. And then we're going to place because this is a right side row. You can start to see these little um wiggly lines here. This is the right side row. So we're gonna be doing the opposite. So these are slip stitches that are really short. It's kind of a little dip there. So we're gonna put half, double crochets here, single or slip stitches here, half, double here, slip stitches here. So we're doing the opposite of what we had. I made that stitch a little tight there. One, two, three and four, half, double crochets. And now we're gonna do four slip stitches, And now we're gonna do four, half, double crochets, one, two, three and four. And now we're gonna do four slip stitches, one, two, three, whoops and four. OK. So now we have worked all the way up through row five and we would just continue working those yarn over slip stitches all the way across. After row five, you've already learned pretty much all you need to know in order to make that big rectangle I showed you earlier. So after row five, you're gonna repeat rows 23 and four, let's see, 234 and five, another 16 times for this size. So after you've done this far, after you've worked this far up through row number five, you repeat rows two through five another 16 times for my size, or it could be all the way up to 28 times depending on what size you're making. And then there's a little note in here about altering the circumference of your hat. So it's telling you to repeat the, the rows number two through five, you know, repeat that section more or fewer times. So this is what I was talking about earlier, how you can very easily alter the circumference of your hat. No problem. But you have to go all the way through the cycle. OK? So you're gonna go through 22 through five and then you're going to finish up by repeating rows two through four once again. So you're gonna end this big long rectangle with a repeat of row four. So, and just so, you know, that would mean ending with that slip stitch to the back loop in each of the next five stitches. That's the only place where there, where I write it. Um five stitches in a row like that. So that's kind of like it that should turn on a little light in your brain. Oh This is, could be a place to end. I could end here if I wanted to. All right. So let me show you what it looks like after you keep repeating and keep repeating. Here is my hat. And now this OK. So this might look a lot bigger because it is, this is a larger size. This is the adult size here. Um So I have finished up right here. This was my very last row, was working a repeat of row four ending with those five slip stitches. Let me just replace my, my hook here and all right, we got some more. Hello. Hello, Carrie, uh from Spicewood, Texas. She's glad she found us. Awesome. I'm glad you're here. Um And Travis is saying, love it. Good morning from Central Kentucky. Awesome. Hello. And Debbie mcclune is saying, why did you add the half, double crochet using two loops instead of just adding an extra one in the same stitch? OK. OK. So the reason I did that when I made that so that that's not part of this pattern, I just want to clarify for anybody else. Um What I was trying to do is sneak an extra half, double crochet in there and instead of putting two half, double crochets into that same loop, what I did was I put a half, double crochet into that back loop. Then I used my hook and I went, I kind of combined the stitch I just made with the following stitch that hadn't been worked yet. Worked a half, double crochet into both those loops held together. Then I worked a half, double crochet into the second loop that I just combined. And the reason I was doing that is because we're working through only the back loop as we're working our way across and that back loop gets really stretched out. So this is my sneaky little way of adding extra stitches in there without stretching out that loop to because then you get like a little window and then you can see it. So it was really just a cosmetic thing. Um You could have put two stitches into that same back loop, but I feel like it just looks a little better. It makes your loops a little tighter when you combine those two stitches together. And then you work again into that, that next stitch that you, I don't know if this is making any sense, but i it was mostly just a cosmetic thing. OK? And Tani is saying, could we use the number four yarn? So this was written for a number three yarn, but you could use a number four yarn and maybe just um if you're OK with your hat being a little taller, you could use the same size that you were planning on or go down one size and see how that goes. As you're crocheting this, you'll get a little chunk done. OK? So you're gonna start here and then you can see about how tall your hat's gonna be. So you can fold this up, place it on your head and know that there's gonna be a little circle at the top of your hat right here. This is what we add to the very top of the hat. So just know that, you know, you can kind of imagine that to be the right, you know, in the right placement on your head and say, oh, is that the right height as long as you have the height of the hat? Correct? Then you can just work as many rows, as many repeats of that rows, 2 to 5 as you want to, to get the circumference you want. So, in that way, it's total, it's very, very easy to customize. Um And kind of mess around with your, your uh the thickness of your yarn because your rogue age is probably not gonna match if you use a thicker yarn. But it doesn't matter because you can just work for your rose and sew it together and that'll work great. All right. So here we are at the end and then we would just fasten off. So we're just gonna cut ourselves enough yarn so that we can do a whip stitch here. And I'm going to pull that through. OK. I'm gonna remove this marker and then um I like to stitch this together with the right sides facing so I can see everything. Oh And here's another little tip. When you finish working that row, a repeat of row four, that's when you end your hat. As a repeat of row four, your pieces will fit together. They will nest, see how those little lines fit together, this sticks up this, you know, this swoops up here and that fits right into it. Ok. So that's how, you know, you've ended at the right place. All right. So we are just going to be working through, um, you know, the two top loops of each edge and we're just doing a whip stitch just like this to sew it together. Um, you can also, I know oftentimes I will do a slip stitch to join these pieces together. That's how I usually like to, um, when I, when I make something sideways like this, I usually like to do that with a slip stitch. But the reason that I'm doing it this way is because I feel like it blends in much better. And I know that seems weird because we are actually sewing something. Um, and that seems weird. Like why wouldn't it blend in better if you were crocheting it? But it really does blend in really well and you can almost not even see this seam after you sew it up. All right. So I'm just matching up, uh, you know, you could pin this all together. Um, but if you are good at recognizing your stitches and you're able to put your needle through the next stitch in each row each time, you know, not, not accidentally put your needle into a place you've already worked or skip a stitch or whatever. If you're pretty good at recognizing that then you don't need to pin it because um pinning it is just, it's just a 1 to 1 ratio here of of uh of stitches. So you really don't need to worry about that. So I skip it because I would probably stab myself running my hand along where those pins are. OK. And Debbie is saying yes, it makes perfect sense. Oh good. OK. So I'm a very visual person and so it really helps me to teach with like pictures and showing people things. And when I'm just trying to explain something, I know I find myself waving my hands around, but that doesn't actually really help anything. So I'm glad that made sense to you. Um And Jennifer is saying, Alabama says hi and thanks a bunch. Can't wait to start. Awesome. Hi, Alabama. All right. So I will get a little further on in. I don't know if I'll finish this whole seam just trying to keep my eye on the time and make sure we have time to finish the top. But there is our seam and you can just barely see it. Ok. It's kind of blending in and with a little bit of blocking, you should be able to make that kind of wobbliness go away. Um, ok. So you would just continue sewing these together. Actually, I'll get just a little bit into that ribbed stitch and make sure you guys know what loops you're supposed to go through. Sometimes it can be a little confusing to know which two loops are, the loops you're supposed to stitch through, especially when you're using stitches like a half, double crochet because it makes that third loop on the back of your work. So you just have to take a look at it. So right now, here's a V here and here's a V here. OK. So we're going through this V that's on the top, it's almost rolling to the inside. We're not going through this V that's sitting on this top surface. All right. And here, this one's a little bit less confusing um because it doesn't really look very much like a V here for that's from our foundation row there. OK? So again, we're not going underneath here, but we're going underneath that loop and that loop if I kind of pull it towards the top there. OK. So just making that whip stitch and it actually blends in pretty well. Um And you can just go all the way down to here and then weave in your ends. So after you do that, then you're going to join the yarn to the top of your hat. Let's see here. Just gonna cut this. All right. So in order to work the top of the top little circle, I'm gonna show you how to pick up your stitches. Let's see. OK. So here we are closing the top of the hat, we're gonna pull up a loop at the top opening at the seam. So here is our seam right here, right there. We pulled up a loop. So we just inserted yarn over and pulled up a loop and then we're gonna single crochet into each ridge around. Then we're not gonna join, we're gonna work in spiral rounds. So what in the world is a ridge? What are you talking about Brenda? Right. So the ridges are formed here. There's, they're the little vs, there's one here and then there's one neighboring it right there. So there's two ridges between my thumbs right there. This is not a ridge that's kind of like a little valley between and here's two ridges right here. Ok. So we have two ridges here, two ridges here. We're gonna be working single crochets into the top of each of the ridges. So we'll just insert our hook here, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through two. I'm gonna pull on this yarn tail just a little to make it a little smaller. That was our first stitch of the round. I'm gonna mark that because that might be a little hard to see later. And then here's the next ridge right next to it. So we're gonna make a single crochet there. We're skipping over that little valley. And when you do that, here's the next ridge. When you skip over these valleys, you wanna make sure you're not like extending your loop over here because you don't want any holes. What you're doing is you're bringing that next stitch right next to it. You're keeping this nice and tight. I'm putting a little tension here so you can make that stitch pretty tight. So it's kind of gathering in the top of your hat and it just gives you a nice place to put those stitches. And that way you don't have to really count it. You just single crochet around, putting one single crochet into the top of each of those ridges as you work, work your way around. There we go. So another thing, um you know, this is just a little bit of troubleshooting while I'm getting, well, I'm working my way around there. I want to tell you if for some reason you feel like your hat turned out too long, like let's say you substituted with the number four yarn and you're like, oh, it's too long. You could um do just one round of this single crochet, what I'm doing right here. You could work this round and then you could just run your needle through and cinch it in as best as you can and do some stitches to kind of gather in the top of your hat. It won't look quite as smooth as this, but that's OK. Like the top of a hat looks. I mean, that's just a different style if you don't mind that style of having it be a little bit more gathered in that will allow your hat to be just a little bit shorter. Um So that's another route you can take there too. Or if you just plain, don't really like how that circle looks on the top of the hat. That's another route for you as well. This hat really is tall enough that even if, as you were making it, if you made the correct size and it was all turning out the right length and everything, you could skip that little section of single crochet after this round. Um, and just kind of weave your needle through all those stitches and pull it tight. Um If you wanted to, if you, if you like that look to the top of your head because you know what, you're making it so you can, you can do it your own way. All right, looks like we're coming around here. I'm just gonna check and see if anyone has added anything. No, it looks like we're all caught up good. Ok. All right, a few more stitches here and then we will move on. There's just a few rounds and I know it seems like it's gonna take forever because this is pretty big here, but it gets decreased pretty quickly. So we're nearing the end of our hat here pretty soon. All right. So let's see. Yeah, and speaking of that, um, you know, if you guys are hanging on to any questions that you wanted to ask if you're curious about anything or another thing I like is when people make suggestions on projects that they would like to work on in the future. That's a great thing to put in the chat too. All right. So we've made it all the way around placing our last two single crochets into these two ridges. This ridge is a little bit sloppier looking because that's where our, um, our whip stitch is, but we still worked into it and there is our very first stitch that kind of got a little stretched out. So I'm gonna pull on that and now we are going to start working uh one single crochet into each stitch around. So just place one single crochet into each of these stitches for the next round. So this would be round number two. Yep. So we're just working. Even um one thing that I wanted to mention while I am working my way around here is that at 1130 today, I'm going to be doing another live. Um It's instead of doing a demonstration though, we are going to be talking about New Year's resolutions. So if anybody is interested in joining that, I welcome you to come at 1130 I'm going to be talking a little bit about OK, I'm taking, I'm doing a big reality check with my projects because I have a tendency to when things aren't working out and I need to do, you know, I switch to, to a new thing and then sometimes those old projects just sit. So this is gonna be my year of the purge. I'm trying to get everything organized and get rid of all the half made projects that are, have just been sitting there, neglected some of them for years. Um So I'm gonna be talking a little bit about that and how I'm deciding um what to do with everything and then we're gonna talk about goal setting and that type of thing too. So if anybody is interested in that, please join us at 1130 we'll be talking about that. All right, I think I will just show you. Let's see. Yep. OK. So, so you guys don't have to watch me continue making single crochets all the way around this hat. I'm gonna stop here at this halfway point, but just imagine I went all the way around to this point after that. Round number three, you're gonna be doing an invisible single crochet around. Ok. So, um and what that means? Invisible. Oh, that should be an invisible decrease. Oh I just caught another mistake. Invisible single crochet decrease. OK. So rounds number three and round number five, you guys the this is a mistake right here um in the pattern. So an invisible single crochet decrease that should be inv single crochet and then decrease is dec OK? So that, that's what this should be and also as well on number five, that should be the same thing, invisible single crochet decrease and I will get that corrected after this. Um after this live so that if you guys haven't downloaded it already, um you will have, you will be able to get the, the fixed up copy. But if you did already download it, I'm telling you right now, you just need to go ahead and change this to instead of invisible single crochet, it has to be an invisible single crochet decrease. All right. So we're gonna be decreasing. Just imagine our hook was over here at the very beginning. So to do an invisible decrease, you're just going to, I, I do this a little bit differently than some other people. Um But you can do it the way that you like to do it. I'm just gonna show you my version. So what I do is I insert my hook underneath just the front loop of the next stitch and then I insert my hook under both loops of the falling stitch. Then I yarn over and I pull through both of those stitches. Now, I have two loops on my hook and then I'm gonna yarn over and pull through two. Let me do that maybe over the white. So you can see a little better. Let's do it again. So I insert my hook underneath, just the front loop and then the next stitch I go under both loops. Now this is where my invisible decreases are a little different usually people just go underneath the front loops of the next two stitches, which is totally fine. You can absolutely do it that way. I like going under the two loops of the second stitch because I feel like it has less of a tendency to, um, stretch those loops out. It feels a little bit more anchored and it pulls the increase together a little more. So I especially like to do this method of the invisible decrease when I'm working on something where I'm trying to bring the fabric in and I don't want to see um big gaps there. It just seems to help a little bit, but it's a very minute difference. Really? You guys, OK. So we're gonna be doing these decreases all the way around the hat. So you're gonna be ending up with half as many stitches at the end of your round um As in the last stitch. OK. So underneath that first loop, underneath the second loop and then you're an over, pull through. First loop, two loops, yarn over and pull through. OK. All right. So maybe we'll, we're running short on time. So I think I might just do a few more and then I will show you how to close the top of this hat and you'll just have to use your imaginations just a little bit because we didn't do um our full um We didn't make it all the way around to this stitch marker. So I'm gonna be going around to here to do my decreases a little bit here. So that, that way, at least I'll end up with the right amount of stitches, even though I'll have one fewer round and half of the top of my hat. I don't know if that makes sense, but, uh, because I shorten that one row. I, I just kind of stopped before I was at the end. Um, I'll have one less row on one half of the crown of my hat, but that's not even going to be noticeable, I don't think. OK, insert through the front under both. Here we go. All right. So normally when we get to our stitch marker, we would be done with that round. But I'm gonna continue working around because otherwise I'm not gonna be able to show you how to close the top of the hat. There we go. And if you, if you are used to doing just a regular single crochet two together and you prefer that method, you can absolutely do that too. It doesn't have to be the invisible decrease. I just feel like it ho the invisible decrease, pulls it together just a little tighter. Um And it's uh a little bit less bumpy, I guess than the single crochet than the standard single crochet two together. So we don't need to be that picky though. You can do whatever method you want to, to decrease your stitches so that you end up with half of the stitches that you had from the previous round. Yeah. All right. I'm probably getting pretty close, probably getting pretty close to where I started decreasing. And then, so after you've done your one round of decreases in round three, the next round, you would just work one single crochet into each stitch around. Ok. So I'm gonna do that right now and I'm not absolutely sure that I have the right amount of stitches. I just kind of eyeballed that. And the reason is, is because I didn't really mark where I started doing my decreases. But if you were following the actual directions and you started decreasing at the beginning of round three, after you actually completed round two, then you would be fine. So don't, don't look too closely at the number of stitches that I have here. All right, I'm about halfway there. Oops. And one thing I do wanna mention to you is um at the end of completing the top of this hat, it does look a little um kind of wavy and wrinkly where the circle that I'm making right here meets up with that textured stitch pattern. And all you need to do is block it when you're done. And so if you've never heard of blocking or you've never blocked anything before, all blocking means is you're just sort of treating your project with either steam, especially if it's an acrylic fiber, I would recommend steam or you're going to make your hat or whatever you're making wet, squeeze out as much uh water as possible, kind of roll it up in a towel, but you don't want to wring it or twist it or stretch it out of shape or anything like that and then you just let it dry. And so that, that way you can kind of shape your stitches until everything looks nice and even, all right. So uh here I am, I'm going to be doing my very last round of decreases. So this should say invisible single crochet decrease around until and there may be one stitch left over, then you just do a single crochet into that last stitch. Don't worry about it. OK. So we're still doing those same decreases that we did before. So I'm doing the inserting my hook under the front loop and then under both loops. That's how I'm doing mine. But you can do yours however you like. Um But back to the blocking thing, it really does make a difference. Um Especially if you find your stitches to be uneven or um you know, the top of this hat, this is one of those hats that I would definitely recommend blocking because it looks kind of, well, you'll see when I finish it up, you'll see the little, the little bumps that it has and I'll show you the blocked version compared to this version and then you'll see what a difference it makes, but another reason to block your hat, even if you know, the, the stitches weren't uneven or anything like that. Um, another reason to block your hat is to give it just a little bit more softness or drape. This is especially noticeable when you have an acrylic project. Um, and then you use steam on it. It makes your fibers just relax and it just makes such a big difference. Makes a difference with wool too. And wool when you get wool, I like, I prefer to block wool with water um by soaking it because some wools kind of bloom a little and kind of fill in those spaces and Yeah. Ok. So I think I've worked around about the proper amount of stitches are left. Um But you know, if you're following this and you're just decreasing all the way around, you'll have the right amount of stitches left and even if you were off by a stitch or two, it really wouldn't matter. That would not be a big deal. Ok. So we just cut our yarn and then we're going to thread this onto our yarn needle. And if you're using a yarn that's pretty breakable, you could double up on your yarn strands or you could even close this in with embroidery floss or some other kind of sturdier yarn. If you want this yarn is just fine, um you can break it with your hands, but it's not super breakable. So I'm going to be placing my needle into that front loop only um to pull this tight. But if you prefer, you can go underneath both loops of that last, you know, the top of that last row of stitches or round of stitches. Sorry. Um I just find it's a little easier to pull it into a circle that closes the, the center hole completely. If you are only grabbing just that top loop or the front, the front loop of each stitch. And as I do this, I put my finger in the middle because that helps me have something to press against and not accidentally put my needle through to the other side and snag something over there because then if you try to gather in the top of the hat, it's going to get kind of messed up. So I always put my finger in the middle of the hole right there at the top of the hat. So that way you, you're gonna keep yourself from accidentally doing that. All right. So we made it all the way around one more little stitch here and then we just can go ahead and pull on that and close the top of our hat just like that. And then we are going to weave in our ends. So with this pull nice and tight, I go around one more time sliding my needle through all of those loops. They should be easier to see. Now if you just kind of place your needle right there through those loops. Um, let's see, Jennifer is saying I started a crochet project years ago. It's dust. Should I toss it and start over or wash it? Oh, it must be dusty or wash it when I'm done. I think that depends if it's dusty. I, I guess it depends on how much. Well, I, I guess I would wash it first because you don't want to keep handling a dusty thing because you might be kind of rubbing the dust into the, to the, um, into the yarn and making it much harder to clean. So I would clean it first. Maybe place stitch markers on it or find some way to finish off what the piece that you have. I don't know if it's in pieces or what, what you have there, but I would, I would wash it now and then you can wash the whole thing when it's done. That's what I would do. Oh, Tammy says your Woodland Mits were my first crochet project. I made 12 pairs and gave us gifts at Thanksgiving. Everybody loved them. I'm so happy to get the pat pattern. Thank you. 00, my goodness. That's a lot of, that's amazing. And that was your first crochet project? That's, that's pretty cool. Wow. I am honored that you, that you chose my project to be your first crochet project and that you made so many of them. That's amazing. Thank you for sharing that with us that just made my day. All right. So I'm just weaving in my ends here. You know, you wanna go in a couple of different directions so that your, your ends don't pop out and that's it. So now you can see the top of the hat. Um And maybe this doesn't bother you, but I didn't like how deep these were curling under. Um So all you need to do is block it and then it'll look like this one. So you can see the difference here between the top of this hat, which has kind of like a little gentle ruff lines there and this one that's very shadowy and you can see, see the difference and maybe you like this better and that's fine. Um, I'm not gonna come to your house and check if you blocked it. So you don't have to tell anyone. Um, but I didn't like how that was looking. So I blocked it and then it, it was a little bit softer and it just seemed to get rid of those sort of deeper, um, grooves in it there. So, and then, you know, this, of course, would have been seam already. You would just turn that up and if you were blocking it, you could also kind of steam this a little bit just to, um, kind of set that little fold in it if you wanted to. Um, but you don't have to all Right. I think unless we have any more. Ok. It looks like we're all caught up. Ok. Thank you guys so much for joining me. I really enjoyed working on this project and kind of coming back around to those woodland myths that I love so much. Um And I'm glad that so many of you seem to be really liking the stitch pattern. It's, it's deceptively easy. It's much easier than cables and then it's nice and warm. You don't get those holes, those telltale holes that sometimes happen between your cables. Um So this is just a great route to take for this really awesome texture. So, thank you guys so much for joining me. I hope to see some of you guys at my next live event at 1130 we'll talk about our New Year's resolutions. Ok. Bye everyone.