Woodland Mitts

Hi, everybody. Welcome to our live crochet event. I'm Brenda K.B. Anderson, and I'm so happy that you joined me. Today, I'm going to be teaching you how to make the Woodland Mitts. This is such a cute little fingerless mitten pattern. It's quick, it makes a great holiday gift. And so I'm going to be showing you everything you need to know, too. All the stitches and how the mitten's constructed. We'll be going through all of that. So you'll know how to make them. If you'd like to download the pattern, it's free for anybody. So you can just go to the comments section and click on the link so you can download the pattern. You can follow along, or you can just do that later. If you just want to be watching this part now, you can watch it again later, too. It'll be, the video will be played again later on the website, anytime, you can watch it. So I will be following along in the comment section here. If you have any questions or comments, you just want to say hi, tell me where you're watching from, tell me what you're working on. You can tell me if you've finished any holiday projects so far, I will be kind of jealous of you, but just let me know if there's anything that I'm doing that is unclear, and then I'll try to clear that up for you. I'll just be checking periodically. So let's get started. Let me introduce you to the mitts. So there's two sizes on this pattern. There's the small, medium size, which should fit small and medium size hands. Mostly women or teen's hands. If you want to make them larger, there is one larger size. The size is about three quarters of an inch bigger, and you could even customize further beyond that as well. And I'll get into that in just a little bit. So the mittens are worked actually back and forth in turned rows. Let me show you what this looks like when you are, just before you seam it together this is what your piece will look like. And just giving you the little overview here, and we'll get into all the stitches next. So they're worked back and forth in turned rows, and you skip some stitches for the thumb hole, and then you fold your mitt, and then you slip stitch, you do a little slip stitch seam at the end. So they're super simple. And the cool thing about this is that it looks really complicated to me. Like it looks like a fun cable pattern, actually looks kind of like knitting. Like you're switching the stitches back and forth and you're working it in this direction, but secretly it's worked this way, and secretly it's crocheted, and secretly it's so much easier. So there's only really three different stitches across here and I'll show you how to work each of them. But I just wanted to show you kind of the anatomy of the mittens so that it makes a little more sense when you're looking at the pattern. So there's a little section here at the beginning. This is worked in a yarn over slip stitch, and then this section here where you get the cool, kind of almost looks like tree bark or the kind of cable-y section here. This is going back and forth between working slip stitches, half double crochet, slip stitches, half double crochet. And then you do that for two rows. And then on the next two rows, you do half double crochet, slip stitch, half double crochet, slip stitch. So you're just alternating those stitches. That's all written in the pattern. You don't have to worry if what I just said was like, "Okay, I didn't catch all that." I will be showing you how to do all that. I just wanted to make you notice that there's a little stitch pattern change between the yarn over slip stitch, and then that kind of cable-y looking pattern. It's not really cables, but we'll call it that. And then there's another little section of the yarn over slip stitch pattern at the end. So normally I would ask people to make a gauge, but because these are so little, and also secretly because confession time, I hate making gauge swatches. I was trying to make this easier for those of you who also hate making gauge swatches. And don't pick up my bad habits though. Gauge swatches are good and they're helpful. But in this case, you can get away with just starting on the mitt, and then measuring it as you go. So in the pattern, there's a couple of checkpoints and you just want to check and make sure that your gauge is on. If your mitt is a lot bigger, if it's turning out bigger than mine, then you're gonna want to start over and go down a hook size. And if it's turning out smaller, you're gonna want to start over and go up a hook size. So once you begin, then, you know, you'll be checking your gauge as you go. So let's get started on making one of these. We're going to begin with a chain of 41 stitches. Looks like we have a couple of comments. I'm just gonna check those while I'm doing my 41 chains. I see Kim says she only crochets blankets, but she's never made hat or mitts. Well, maybe after this, you will be inspired to do that. That's but blankets, man, those take a long time. I haven't actually made that many blankets because I have sort of a short attention span, but I really admire them. That is for sure. And somebody already started the mittens yesterday. Awesome, cool. Okay, let's see. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41. One thing I'm gonna say about this chain is because of the stitch pattern, it tends to kind of pull the stitches in a little, I think it's because of the slip stitches, actually, they make them a little tighter. So usually there's so much emphasis put on making your crochet chain really loose. And I'm not saying you should make a tight one, but I don't think you have to intentionally make it loose because your stitch pattern will kind of shrink it in a little, but do make it as loose as you need to, to easily get your hook into the stitches. And speaking of that, I love working into the bottom of my chain instead of the top where we normally work, because it's easier for me to get my hook into the stitches, and it also makes a neater, tidier edge. So that's what I'm gonna be doing on my first row. So the bottom of the chain, that means, if you take a look at this, if you take a look at your chain, you see all these little Vs sitting on top. If you flip it over, like that, you will see all these little horizontal dashes. Those are where we're going to be working. We're gonna be working underneath those. So we're going to skip the first dash, because that first chain counts as a turning chain. And we will never work into that. So, in this pattern, so we're gonna skip that and go into the second bump, and then we're going to start working our first row. So the first row we're gonna do six yarn over slip stitches. Now this is how you work a yarn over a slip stitch: you'll yarn over. And then we're gonna go into the second bump, just right in front of my thumbnail there, insert your hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, and then see how I'm grabbing this with my thumb here to kind of anchor it? Then we're going to continue pulling that same loop through those two, to complete the yarn over slip stitch. Let me show you that a few more times. Yarn over, insert your hook, yarn over, pull up your loop, and then pull through two. Yarn over, insert your hook, yarn over, pull up your loop and pull through two. Now if you've already crocheted a bit before and you know what a half double crochet is, this is very similar to a half double crochet, except that you don't do that last yarn over. Okay, so yarn over, insert, yarn over, pull it up and continue pulling through two. So, so far we have one, two, three, four stitches. We'll do two more. And there we have our six yarn over slip stitches. So one, two, three, four, five, six. And this is a good note, especially if you haven't worked in this stitch pattern before, sometimes it gets kind of hard to see where your first and last stitches are. I mean you're, or any time, not even just this stitch pattern, just in general, I think that is one of the tricky things about learning how to crochet is just realizing where your first and last stitches are. So just to alleviate any of that, you know, questioning is this my stitch, is that my stitch, I don't know if that's a stitch, is that the turning chain, what is this, right? Just put a stitch marker in that first stitch. And then you can put a stitch marker in the last stitch as well. And then you'll just always know for sure that those are the first and last stitches. All right, so we did our six yarn over slip stitches. Then we're going to repeat the section that goes four half double crochets, four slip stitches. Now that the slip stitches are not gonna be the yarn over slip stitches, they will just be a regular slip stitch. So I'll show you the difference in a minute. So we're gonna do four half double crochets. So we'll yarn over, insert our hook, yarn over, pull up a loop. This is looking at just like what we just did, right? Except right now we're gonna yarn over. We're doing an additional yarn over, and pulling through three loops. Okay, so that's a half double crochet. Yarn over, insert, yarn over, pull it up, yarn over, pull through three. Okay, we're gonna do that two more times. And here's the last time, yarn over, insert, yarn over, pull out the loop, yarn over, pull through three. There's our four half double crochets. Now we're going to do four slip stitches. So this is just inserting your hook, and pulling up a loop, and pulling it through that loop. Okay? So insert your hook, pull up a loop, pull through the loop on your hook. Those are slip stitches. So we've got two more to do, one, two. And on these slip stitches, it's very, very easy to accidentally make them very tight. It's super common for people to make really tight slip stitches. And it's because nothing holds this, well, actually let me just show you. If you insert your hook and pull, oops, let me get it in the right spot. Okay, so if you pull up your loop, watch what happens to this loop right here. If you pull it through here, see how you can make it shrink to really tight by accident? If you're, I kind of exaggerated that, you know, nobody probably does it that much, but you have to watch that loop as you're pulling through because it can get really tight. And then on the next row, it gets harder to work into your stitches. So just keep your eye on that. So we've done, let's see one, two, three slip stitches. We're gonna do our last slip stitch for that. And now we're going to repeat. So we have six yarn over slip stitches, four half double crochets, and then four slip stitches right here. So we're gonna do four half double, four slip, four half double, four slip stitch across until there are only six stitches left. So right now I'm doing the half double crochets. One, two, three, four. And then now we're going to do slip stitches. One, two, three, four. And four half doubles, one, two, three, four. And four slip stitches, one, two, three, four. And then we're gonna do four half doubles, and then we'll only have six stitches left. One, two, three, four. All right. So now you should have six stitches left, and you're going to do six yarn over slip stitches, just like we did at the very beginning. And you can see our little pattern is starting to form. We've got taller stitches, shorter stitches, taller, shorter, taller, shorter, taller. So as you'll notice, when we start with half double crochets at the beginning, we're also going to end with them, at the beginning and end of that little center section. Okay, so whatever the four that you start with, are also the four that you end with. So now we're gonna do yarn over, insert your hook, yarn over, pull it up, pull through two. That's your yarn over slip stitch. And you know, these stitches are all related to each other. They're all very similar. The slip stitch is not that different from the yarn over slip stitch, and the yarn over slip stitch is not that different from a half double crochet. So this is really super good practice for learning the difference between all three, and being able to do them automatically. And this is definitely always the first, the first row on any project is always the hardest. Probably should have made my chain just a touch bigger. Okay, let me see how many we have here. I was losing track. One, two, three, four half double crochets, One, two, three, four, five yarn over slip stitches. And one more here at the end. There we go. And now we're gonna do a turning chain, and then we're gonna flip our work over and then work across. So when I make these turning chains, whenever I'm working a yarn over slip stitch pattern, make your turning chains kind of tight. You're never going to work into them, so it doesn't matter. And it helps to keep the edge from stretching out too much, makes it look a little neater and tidier. So I make them just slightly tighter than I normally would. So make your turning chain, turn your work. And now we're gonna do, we're gonna do the exact same thing we just did, except this time we're working in the back loops of everything. So the back loop is, normally, when you insert your hook under your stitch like this, this would be your front loop. This is your back loop. Normally you go under both of them, but this time we are going to go down through there just to catch the back loop. And from this point on, we're gonna go back and forth and back and forth on these mittens. Every stitch you make is going to be into that back loop. So you don't even have to think about it. So just from now on, ignore that front loop. All right, so we're making six yarn over slip stitches. Like we always do here. One, two, three, four, five, six. Okay, and now we've gotten to the half double crochet section. We're working half double crochets in all the half double crochets, slip stitches in all the slip stitches, on this row, okay? So we're just going to do exactly the same thing that we just did on the last row, except that this time we're just working in that back loop of each stitch. Okay, so there's four half double crochets. Oh, I forgot to mention what hook size I'm using. Thank you for asking that, Shannon. I'm using an F, 3.75 millimeter hook, and that is written in the pattern. So you'll have that, but you'll use whatever hook size you need to in order to get the gauge to be the same as mine. And, somebody else, Anya is asking how long does it take to make a set of mittens? Hm. If you're an experienced crocheter, it probably takes maybe like three hours or so. If you are just starting out, the first one will take you a lot longer and the second one will be a lot quicker, but this is definitely an approachable, you know, maybe a second or third crochet project. Once you've made a square, a dish cloth, or something like that, you can definitely do this. This would be a good project for people who are just starting out. Oh, Florence wants to know if I made the sweater that I'm wearing. I did make this sweater. And actually, I didn't even think about this until right now, but this entire sweater is made out of the yarn over slip stitch pattern. So the pattern that we're doing right here on the edge, the whole sweater is made out of that. That's funny. All right, I'm just continuing to do my half double crochets and my slip stitches across, alternating between them until there are only six stitches left. And then that's where we're gonna do the yarn over slip stitches again. Otoya says when you're making, when she's making blankets, she listens to audio books. And the next thing she knows is it's done. Yeah, that actually would be really helpful. Sometimes I'm kind of a Netflix binger, but then I can't watch anything that's too good, because then my crochet suffers for it. So I have to find like the perfect balance of like, just interesting enough that it's not annoying to watch and that it's helping me pass the time while I'm working on something that takes a long time, but not so good that, that I could just get all distracted and then I have to rip stuff out. Or sometimes I just find myself doing this while I'm crushing. They can't be too good. All right, so I've done my last four half double crochets here, and I'm going to do six yarn over slip stitches. So, one, two, three, four, five, and six. All right. So now you can see even more that there's a difference between the height of the half double crochets and the slip stitches here. And it's, you know, going in and out and in and out. On the next row, those are going to help us to determine what stitch we're doing. So this is gonna look very similar to the previous two rows, except the difference is we're going to be switching up instead of doing half double crochets here, we're going to do the slip stitches here. So we're going to do four slip stitches, four half double crochets, four slip, four half double crochet across, and then just making sure you do the yarn over slip stitches at the beginning and at the end. So I'll show you what that looks like. All right. One, two, three, four, five, six. Okay, and now this is gonna, this is gonna prompt us because this is so tall. We know we're doing short stitches, so everything will even out in the end, right? One thing when I was working on this pattern, I had to, I took note that when I am traveling in the direction of my yarn tail, that means I am switching whatever stitch I was doing from the previous row. So, on this row, instead of doing the tall stitch, I'm gonna do the short stitch 'cause I'm traveling towards this yarn tail. On the reverse, when you're traveling away from your yarn tail, you're gonna do exactly the same thing you did on the previous row. So you're matching what you did. So I'll show you that when we get there. 'Cause I think it will be a little confusing if I just say it, and there's no stitches there to look at. But, so here we have our first six yarn over slip stitches. And now, because we're going toward our yarn tail, we're going to do four slip stitches. one, and we're still working just under that back loop, one, two, three, four. Now we're going to do half double crochets here for those, one, two, three, four. And four slip stitches, one, two, three, four. Four half doubles, one, two, three, four. Four slip stitches, one, two, three, four. And then I'm doing half doubles, one, two, three, four. Looks like somewhere I think I got off by one stitch. Let me check. One, two, three, four, five. I think it was way back here. Okay, one, two, three, four, five, six, one, two, three. It just didn't look like it was quite lining up right, 'cause I realized I was starting to do a half double crochet into another half double crochet. And you're not gonna be doing that when you change it up. So you can see that this is starting to, you're kind of filling in all those little valleys as you work across on this one. That helps you to, it helps prompt you to know which stitch you're supposed to be doing. And like I said, if you're going toward that yarn tail, let's see, one, two, three, four. It looks like I skipped a stitch. I think that was actually what my problem was, I think I skipped a stitch on the previous row in a slip stitch. So instead, if this happens to you and you start, you realize when you get to this stitch that you're going to be working, on, no, actually, I think that was right. One, two. Okay. Back to our half double crochets. It is okay to add a little stitch in there, to do two into one stitch if you realize that you messed up and you skipped a stitch, you can, of course you can just rip it out to wherever you were at. But if you, if you're wondering whether you're going to notice that if you just sneak two little stitches into a slip stitch, because you only had three slip stitches and you kind of missed a stitch somewhere, you can just do it and look at it and see if you can, if you can't tell, then it's okay. Nobody's gonna come inspect it and tell you, you did it wrong. I feel like sometimes we just are so worried about making mistakes. Four, five, six, one, two, three, four. So I'm gonna do it right here. I'm gonna show you, because I don't have enough slip stitches here, this is the problem that I was having. I got to this point and there's only three slip stitches. So we're just gonna put an extra half double crochet into the same spot we just did a half double crochet and that's going to even it out on the next row. And no one's gonna notice that. Except you guys. Cause I just told you, so that's our little secret. All right, so we've got, we ended with, remember we began with four slip stitches here and we ended with four slip stitches here. Okay, we're alternating in the middle and we're starting to kind of fill in those little valleys. So we're gonna do six yarn over slip stitches, at the end, three, And see how it's a little hard to tell if that was a stitch or not? I should have marked that. So that way you would know for sure, but there is one more stitch there. Another way to tell if you didn't have a marker in, is you can see, there's a stitch down here and it doesn't line- like you can kind of match up this stitch with that stitch. And then this one doesn't have a little buddy above it. So we're just gonna find that little loop in the back, and we'll mark it this time. So then you're gonna do a tight turning chain and flip your work, and you are gonna continue across this row. And remember when you're going away from the yarn tail, here's a yarn tail, that means you're repeating what you did on the row before. So you're gonna do the yarn over slip stitches, and then because these stitches you just did were slip stitches right there, you're gonna do slip stitches in the same spot, half double crochets, slip, half double crochet, slip, half double crochet, slip stitches, and six yarn overs. And if you complete all of that, it'll look like this. So this will be like, oops, it would have been turned this way after you worked your way across. And you can see now it's kind of a uniform thickness. Yes, it wiggles back and forth, but you've filled in those thin spots. And then you've added a thin section across where it was thicker. So you're kind of evening it out. Every, this is a four row repeat in the mitten. So you have to, you do two of the same. So half double, half double, and then in the next one, you switch it up and you do slip stitch, slip stitch, right there in that spot. Does that make sense? So you're going to do two this way and back of the same, then you switch it up and you do this way and back of the alternating pattern. So when I designed these mitts, I realized that I had to add and subtract the width with four row repeats. So when I wanted to make these a little bit bigger, I couldn't just add two rows before the thumb hole here. Let me show you. I couldn't do two rows before the thumb hole, because then that's going to mess up the thumb hole. So what I ended up doing was I added for the left mitten, here, I'll just put this in my hand so you can see, for the left mitten, I added the four rows into the top, so that would make the scene be a little bit further down. And then for the right mitten, I added them into the top of the right mitten as well. So it happens on the right mitten when you're working, for the larger size. This is only for the larger size. You can follow the pattern. You don't have to completely understand what I'm saying if it doesn't make sense, but if you're looking at the pattern and you're like, "Why did she, why is this written so strangely?" It's because I'm adding four rows into this section before the thumb and four rows after the thumb, depending on which hand you're working, instead of two and two. So anyway, you will have worked all four of these and then you're going to continue working in the stitch pattern until you've worked 18 rows. So what that looks like is this. Here's 18 rows and it might be kind of confusing to count this, but let me show you how I do it. So if you're working and working, you're watching a good movie and you're like, I have no idea how many rows I have here. Well, you can, this is the easiest way for me to count it, is I count the half double crochets. So we have one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18. So every little kind of leafy shape, there's a half double crochet row here, and a half double crochet here. And then it alternates. And it's over here the next time. So if you count them that way, it'll be an easy way to count your rows. And you'll know you've done 18. Or if you're making the left, if you're making the larger size mittens, then you're going to, then for one of the hands you are going to have four extra in there. So you will be up to 22 rows, but just look at your pattern. It'll tell you what to do. So after you've done that, you are gonna work the thumb hole. So here we are. So in order to do the thumb hole, let me just check. We've got a couple more comments and questions. Let's see. Oh, Alicia. She says, "Hello, I love how easy the pattern is to work." Thank you, Alicia. Yes, I do too. I love it when things look tricky, but they're secretly easy. Those are the best. How do I do this as a left-hander? Okay, that's a good question, Susan. If you watch the video, you can reverse it on your screen, or if you can't do that, you can watch it in a mirror, then it'll look exactly like I'm left-handed just like you. So then you can just follow along. All the directions should be written the same way. There's nothing about going left to right or anything like that in the directions. So if you are, yeah, if you're pretty much, I would say almost all the time in crochet or at least the stuff that I work on, that if you're wondering, like, "How does this video relate to me? I'm crocheting from the opposite side." You're just looking at a mirror image of, basically you're crocheting in a mirror image of a right-handed person. So if you just look at the right handed person in the mirror, then you'd be looking at what it would look like for you to do it. So let's see. Anything else? Will acrylic yarn work with these? Yes, acrylic, you can definitely use acrylic yarn. You're just, let's talk about the yarn for a second. I should have talked about that at the beginning. I'm glad you asked this question. So I used CYCA, number three and a CYCA number two. So in these two different samples, but weirdly, okay. So CYCA, that's just sort of the yarn standard to tell you how thick, you know, the weight of your yarn, how much room it takes up. But weirdly the, this is a CYCA, this is a sport weight yarn. It's labeled as a sport weight yarn. But it actually, to me is a little bit thicker than this yarn, which is more of a light worsted or DK weight is how it's labeled. So this is a good example of how the CYCA numbers aren't always, it isn't always easy to tell if one yarn is thicker than the other. It's giving you a guideline though, a place to start. So if you just do a swatch with your, back to the acrylic yarn thing, if you do a swatch with your yarn, it should be, you should start out with either a CYCA number three or a number two, and just do a swatch and see how it's turning out. You can also, if your yarn is a little thicker, you can go down a hook size and make your mitts just a little bit stiffer. You can also do the opposite, make them a little bit, with a little more drape, if your yarn is a little bit thinner. So you can just do a little, you know, start working on the mitt, and check your gauge and see how it's going in order to substitute. Let's see, "To clarify my question, will medium weight acrylic yarn work?" Oh, sorry, I didn't see that until now. I would not use a medium weight, because I think a medium weight is gonna be too large. Although if you're feeling adventurous, you could just do this, work the pattern up, but then do fewer repeats. So do four less repeats than what I'm doing here. And that might give you, you could just check it and monitor your piece just to see if it's working. I mean, the cool thing about these mittens is as you're working it, you can just sort of try it on your hand and see, like, is this going to work, you know, before you put the thumb hole in, when you put the thumb hole in, you can just keep checking. So, and then, "I have a pack of yarn that's a number one or number two, should I double or triple the yarn? I have several skeins." I think you're just going to have to test it. It's really hard to tell. If you've got a number two, you can maybe put the one, are you going to do them together? The one and the two? Or you're not sure if it's a one or a two. If it's in between a one and a two, I would definitely double it, and then just check your gauge. 'Cause I think, it's too hard to know for sure unless you actually check your gauge, just start on it and see how it's going. Okay, so now we're gonna work the thumb hole row. We're gonna start out with our yarn over slip stitches. So we're going to use six of those. One, two, three, four, five, oops, I lost my loop there, five, six. And then we're gonna do slip stitch in the back loop for just two stitches. One, two. Then we're going to chain eight. And this is because we're making a little gap where the thumb hole is going to go. So one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight. And we're going to skip the next eight stitches, one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight. And we're gonna slip stitch through the back loop of the next two, one, two. See how we made that little gap there? And now we're going to continue working in our patterns. So we're gonna do four half double crochets, cause remember we're going toward this. So we'll do four half double crochets, one, two, three, four. Four slip stitches. We're still continuing just to work through the back loops, One, two, three, four. Four half double crochets, one, two, three, four. And then four slip stitches here. One, two, three, four. And then we'll do our six yarn over slip stitches. One, two, three, four, five, and six. Okay, we're gonna chain one and turn. And now I'm gonna show you how to work across here and work into this thumb. So we're gonna do, we're gonna continue in our stitch pattern, so we're just doing yarn over slip stitches across the first six stitches here. And then we're gonna continue. This is basically like a repeat of the last pattern. So, or the last row, sorry. So we're doing four slip stitches here into our slip stitches. Let's see, one, two, three, four, five, six, one, two, three, four. And now we're doing four half doubles. One, two, three, four. And four slip stitches. One, two, three, four. Four half doubles, One, two, three, four. Okay, now we're getting to the exciting part. And now we're gonna do 12 slip stitches, okay. So, you know, our pattern would be four half doubles, four slip and then we would normally be doing half doubles here, but because I want to make this a wider hole for the thumb, we're just going to be slip stitching all the way across. So, well not all the way across, but we're a slip stitching for 12 slip stitches. So one, two, so there'll be two slip stitches into the fabric, and then eight slip slip stitches into that chain. Let's see, where are you little loop? I made that stitch a little tight. Okay. Now we're gonna be slip stitching into the chain and you can slip stitch under both stitches or under both parts, loops of the chain, the front and the back, but I'm just doing it in the back because it's easier. And it's kind of within our pattern too. So we're doing our slips such as across one in each chain across that thumb for a total of eight in the chain. And then we're going to do two more slip stitches into the end. And then we should have six stitches left. Oops, I think I need to do one more slip stitch here. So we've got one, two, three, four, five, six six more stitches left. So those are all yarn over slip stitches, one, two... And then after you've worked this thumb hole, then you're gonna just go right back into working those same four, four row repeats until your pattern tells you you're done. So you just kept going back and forth doing those pattern repeats. And then you will have a piece that looks like this, or if you're doing the larger size, depending on which hand, it'll be a little longer here or a little longer here. And then the last thing to do is to seam it closed. So if you wanted to, you could do just a regular, you know, you could fasten off, or you could just use a long yarn tail to whip stitch it together if you like, but this is a little quicker for me anyway. So, and I think that it still looks pretty good in the pattern. if you take, so this is where you would have ended up, you can turn your work as if you're going to work one more row, and then you're going to fold your mitten this way. And you're going to put the foundation chain, that's the one with your little beginning yarn tail, put it directly behind the last row that you worked, okay? So it's just sitting right behind, and you're going to match up your stitches. So you're gonna put your crochet hook through. Let's see, I'll do one little chain here to make it a little easier. And you're gonna put your hook through the front loop. Here, let me show you, this could be a little confusing because the yarn over slip stitch has an extra little bar on it in the front. So there's a bar there, but then if you look at the top of your work, there's the front loop, and there's the back loop. We're going to be working underneath the front loop of the row in front. And when we put our hook directly behind, we're gonna work through the back loop of the row behind. So if you think about it, you're working underneath one loop from each layer and they're the loops that are the furthest away from each other, okay. So we'll go through the front here, and the back loop here, and then you'll just yarn over, pull up your loop and pull it right through to do a slip stitch. So let's do that a couple more times. Slip stitch, slip stitch through the back. Okay, so you're inserting it through the front loop and then you're inserting it through the back loop and you're pulling it up. Front, front, just like that. And I'll show you what it looks like. So you end up with this nice little ridge that looks very similar to how these look. So it kind of blends in. It'll connect, here I'll show you on one that's finished. There's the slip stitch seam, it's right here. You can see that, you know, you can kind of see it because it sticks out just a little bit. But if you block these at the end, you can block them flat before you seam them, but you don't have to. I didn't, I just waited until I seamed it all together. And then I blocked them. So because I use an animal fiber, I like to block animal fibers. Usually I like to block them by just getting them wet, soaking them, you just get them wet, and just sort of gently squeeze out the water. You don't want to ring it or anything. I roll it up in a towel and just push down on it, to get most of the water out, and then arrange it and let it dry. But you can also block things, if you're in a hurry, like I sometimes am, even if it is a wool thing or an animal fiber thing, you can steam block things. You can just fill your iron up with water and put it on a high steam setting. So that might mean you might even have it hotter than you normally would. You don't have to put it on the wool setting, even though it says wool, because you're not actually going to touch your, don't actually touch your garment with your iron. You're just gonna hold it above, and press the steam button, if you have a steam button, and that just sends the steam down and you can kind of pat things into place. Sometimes you, like, if you get it nice and steamy, it makes, it helps it relax. And then you can kind of do this, and push your little lines, you know, make that seam look really super perfect. And then it kind of blends in. So let me just check and see. If there are any more questions, please ask them now, because I'm gonna wrap up in a minute here. Let me just check and see if there's anything that I haven't responded to yet. Let's see. I don't see anything. I don't see anything new, but like I said before, these, I wanted to give you guys some good options for quick Christmas gifts. They're actually pretty fast. And what I like to do is I like to give these to people with one of those inexpensive pair of those little stretchy fingerless mittens. So, cause I live in Minnesota, it's super cold here and it, you know, it seems like a little bit nicer to give somebody a little extra warmth when you're giving it to them at a super cold time of the year. But really you can wear these any time. And actually my sister wears them all the time, even indoors. So they make an awesome gift for drafty houses or, you know, weathering outside if you're walking around in the woods in your Woodland Mitts. So let me just check and make sure there's nothing else. Okay. Well, thanks you guys so much for joining me. I really had fun teaching you guys all about these different stitches. And if you make these mitts, please, please post your pictures on social media. You can post them on the Creative Crochet Corner website. There's a little place for photos. You can also post them on whatever social media you use. 'Cause I love to see the projects that you guys make. It's really fun to see what you guys can do. So thank you so much for joining me. Bye.